What to feed a baby mouse whose eyes are open

What Do Baby Mice Eat if Their Eyes Are Closed?

By Tom Ryan | Updated September 26, 2017

When a mouse is born, he can’t do much to defend himself -- he’s blind and deaf, and therefore unable to navigate his environment or find his own food. Fortunately, his mother is there to take care of him. If she doesn’t assume responsibility for feeding him, someone else has to, or he won’t survive.

Litter Size

Just like larger mammals like dogs and cats, mice give birth to litters. A female mouse typically gives birth to a litter of five or six babies, though she can actually give birth to more than a dozen. It’s her responsibility to care for the babies when they are born, because the males don’t do anything to help raise the young. Because the gestation period is so short and a female can breed again immediately, she can give birth to as many as 10 litters per year -- quite a few little mouths to feed.

Blind Dependency

When the baby mice are born, they’re completely deaf and blind -- they won’t be able to see or hear for more than a week. This means that during that period -- and afterward -- the mother is solely responsible for feeding her young. They feed at her teats, which they find by feeling their mother’s warm body blindly.

Nursing a Mouse

If a mother abandons her young or dies, they need to be fed, either by a foster mouse, a foster rat or human hand-feeding. Mothers already nursing babies of their own are typically willing to take on fosters -- rats make especially-willing foster mothers for mice. By removing the mouse or rat mother from her babies and then rubbing her natural babies in your hands with the orphans, you make the two litters indistinguishable to her.

Though they are tiny, baby mice have big appetites -- the babies eat about once every two hours, so if you take on feeding duties yourself, you have to diligently monitor the time. It takes a baby mouse about five minutes of feeding to get his fill of milk or formula.


Even after the babies open their eyes, they continue relying on their mother for food. They can see and hear when they are about 10 days old, but their mother feeds them until they are about three weeks old. By this time, their teeth have started to grow in and they can be weaned off of the teat and onto solid foods. By the time the babies are four weeks old, they’re completely independent.


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Photo Credits

Writer Bio

Tom Ryan is a freelance writer, editor and English tutor. He graduated from the University of Pittsburgh with a degree in English writing, and has also worked as an arts and entertainment reporter with "The Pitt News" and a public relations and advertising copywriter with the Carnegie Library of Pittsburgh.

What Do Baby Mice Eat?

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It’s not easy to care for abandoned newborn mice; many newborn mice die in the first week owing to heat loss, nutritional deficiency, or disease. Raising baby mice is difficult since it has no fur but it isn’t impossible. It has a reasonable possibility of survival if fed several times each day and given enough warmth.

What comes to mind when you hear the term “mouse”? This may be the kind of small, grey animal with a chunk of yellow cheese in its paws that many people are familiar with. A mouse could also be running around your home, opening cereal boxes.

This is why it’s important to be aware of what baby mice eat in the wild. It will assist you in learning how to keep these pests out of your home. So, let’s look at what baby mice eat in the wild and how our homes have become attractive dining halls for mice.

What Do Baby Mice Eat?

Baby mice will suck on their mother’s milk for the first two weeks of their life. After that, baby mice can start eating solid foods, such as cooked rice and beans, cooked carrots, soft vegetables, and fruits.

If they are still without parents, give them kitten milk formula with a syringe or pipet. Remember to feed them every two or three hours. This may mean getting up at night, but it is necessary if you want to keep the kittens alive.

The newborn mice will not have developed their teeth, so they won’t be able to chew on the food at first. After three or four weeks, you should consider adding some solid meals. When the mice begin opening their eyes and growing, this is one of the signals that it’s time to exterminate them. You should also note when their teeth begin to develop.

Begin by offering them high-quality, nutritious foods to encourage growth. Fruits, seeds, vegetables, greens, and rodent diets are examples of these items.

What Do Baby Mice Eat in The Wild? A Baby Mouse

Mice are not picky. A mouse’s diet is surprisingly broad, and a mouse will do just about anything to get its hands on it. They’re natural foragers who enjoy consuming a wide range of foods in the wild. Although they have their likes and dislikes, they do have certain tendencies.

Mice, like most other rodents, prefer insects to meat. These creatures will also consume smaller snails, larvae, centipedes, cricket eggs, and worms as a source of nutrition.

What Do Baby Mice Eat At Home? Cheese for Baby Mice

Mice, like in the wild, will take what they can get. While mice aren’t fussy eaters, they do have their favorite foods. Here’s a list of some of the things that mice enjoy eating.

You may be shocked to learn that mice dislike cheese more than other foods if you grew up watching cartoons of mice chewing on a massive slice of Swiss. That being said, a mouse would not leave an excellent chunk of cheese behind. They will still consume any cheese they discover.

Mice are omnivores, so they eat both plants and animals. They may munch on any leftovers or insects that they discover around your house.

How Much Do Baby Mice Eat? Baby Mice Love Insects!

Mice are curious animals, and their food preferences reflect this. Instead of consuming a large chunk of food all at once, they like to nibble on many different things they’ve kept.

Mice are also hoarding animals. They enjoy rummaging through cupboards and pantries, gathering what they find, and bringing it back to their nests when food is in short supply.

Not only is this an annoyance in and of itself, but it also attracts pests like beetles, weevils, and other insects. This food storage may attract additional pests such as cockroaches, ants, and mice, causing a simple mouse infestation to rapidly develop into a full-blown pest issue.

Mice are generally unwilling to eat non-food items. If chew impressions are on cables, cords, wires, boxes, fabric other objects, this is due to the existence of a mouse nest rather than food consumption.

How To Feed Baby Mice?

Step 1:

Give your baby mouse some liquid nourishment. Baby mice drink mother’s milk. Instead, you’ll need to give your newborn mouse the milk it needs. Cow’s milk should be avoided. You may, instead, try soy formula, kitten formula made of goat’s or cow’s milk, or goat’s milk baby formula.

Step 2:

Every two hours, give them a good meal. Your newborn mouse will require feeding around the clock until it opens its eyes. You must feed your newborn mice every two hours for those between 0 and 2 weeks old. They only need to eat every 3-4 hours after that. They shouldn’t eat during the night once their eyes are open.

Warm the milk first. Check a drop on your wrist to see if it’s cold or hot enough. Using a syringe, eyedropper, or pipette, add milk to a mouse. With your non-dominant hand, firmly grip the mouse. With your other hand, hold the pipette and try to shimmy the probe into the mouse’s mouth. Warm milk should be used instead of cold water. This resembles stretching out and squirming

Step 3:

Solid foods should be introduced gradually after your mouse’s eyes are open. It may begin to eat solid food when its eyes are open. Continue feeding it formula until the 4 to 6 weeks old, at which point it will be weaned. Hamster or kitten food, baby food, or soft vegetables can all be offered.

Step 4:

To help a mouse go to the toilet, stimulate it. Baby mice can’t urinate or feces on their own because they’re babies. The mother would generally lick them to encourage them to eliminate them. Place a cotton ball or your finger in lukewarm water and gently move it over the mouse’s genitals until it has eliminated itself.

What Are The Natural Predators of Baby Mice?

What are the most dangerous animals for mice? While it is not uncommon for some of the larger tarantulas to consume a mouse, most spiders do not consider mice to be a common meal, and instead may appear on a mouse’s menu. Where a substantial amphibian may occasionally capture and consume a mouse, the bulk of their diet is composed of tiny animals, such as insects.

There are several animals that consume mice as part of their regular diet in order to maintain the rodents’ populations in check. These are the creatures believed to be the mouse’s natural predators, and they may be found across a variety of species.


Hawks, eagles, and owls consider mice a welcome change of pace to be hunted and snared. The heron, crow, and blue jay are non-raptor birds that will eat rodents if they find them.


Although larger lizards are known to consume mice, snakes are generally the primary food source for them. People who keep snakes as pets are aware of the snake’s preference for a rodent dinner, but they are more frequently provided with frozen rodents rather than live mice because of their personal preferences or fears that their pets will be injured by food trying to defend themselves.


Cats are commonly thought of as the mouse’s greatest adversary, but once they’ve finished playing with them, house cats will not eat mice. Their feral counterparts and wild cat relatives, however, actively seek out mice for food. Cats, like other species, will consume mice to fill their stomachs. Tigers, lions, and jaguars require more substantial meals, but they will still nibble on them to keep their hunger satisfied. Dogs are not as fussy about eating mice as cats are; nevertheless, they are just as ready to do so in order to survive.


There is another rodent-eating creature that has been observed. It’s a mammal, but it differs from the others in several respects. This species differs from the other mammals listed above because it does not eat mice. Locals avoid members of these societies because they are located in certain countries and are often shunned by those from throughout the rest of the globe. The human is one of the mouse’s greatest foes, and it is a member of this distinctive species.

Humans, as a species, are perhaps the pickiest eaters on the food chain. Humans’ tastes have evolved to the point where we are repulsed by certain foods, particularly those that are known to be parasite-carrying plague transmitters.

Mice are eaten on a regular basis in certain areas of the world, where circumstances demand that food be acquired where it may be found. Though many of the countries that offer mice on their menu no longer struggle financially, traditional dishes are still served, albeit as cultural delicacies for visiting tourists with strong stomachs. In Vietnam, Korea, China, Zambia, and Malawi, rats are known to be eaten in many ways.

Are Baby Mice Healthy To Eat?

Mice are now a trendy source of protein, according to the Austrian Times, having been proven that there’s nothing edible that hasn’t been transformed into a delicacy somewhere in the world. It should be prepared similarly to other meats, just in smaller mouse-sized portions.

It’s possible to eat sewer rats. While you can eliminate many of the pathogens by cooking at a high temperature, rodents still feed on waste and human/animal remains. It is possible to eat cooked rats, although doing so might cause various illnesses and even death if not properly done.

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DECORATIVE MICE | Science and life

White mice (albinos) are very sensitive to bright sunlight, as their skin and eyes lack protective pigments.

Science and life // Illustrations

Mice are very playful creatures. Deftly climb ladders and perches. Amenable to training.

A mouse of this color is called chocolate.

Science and life // Illustrations

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Pet stores sell mice of various colors - white (albino) and colored. Why are these animals interesting and why are they kept in cages?

White mice are bred in the laboratory as experimental animals for medical and genetic experiments. They are the domesticated descendants of the well-known house mouse.

On laboratory mice, scientists study the effect of various factors and drugs on the body of a living being: from weightlessness to new drugs. But the astrologers of ancient China many centuries ago used a white mouse for their predictions. The capture of a remarkably colored mouse or rat was considered an important event. Therefore, the Chinese rulers ordered their chroniclers to enter into the annals reports of each meeting with such a miracle. Documentary evidence confirms that only 30 albino mice were caught in China from 307 to 1641.

Interestingly, in ancient Greece, respect for house mice was associated with the cult of Apollo. The Greeks dedicated certain types of animals to the gods of their pantheon. Apollo was depicted with a mouse sitting at his feet. In some areas of Greece, this god was considered the patron not only of the arts, but also of mice, and therefore rodents were kept in temples. In other places, the countries of Apollo were identified with a deity protecting the population from a mouse invasion, and even a myth was formed about this.

In Europe, white mice began to breed about 130 years ago. Since then, they have become an integral part of scientific work. In vivariums, fertile animals bred in huge numbers without any problems, sometimes producing mutants with an even more unusual appearance than those of albinos.

Breeders brought out not only multi-colored mice, but also tailless, short-tailed, long-haired and even ... naked. Long-haired mice are pretty cute fluffy creatures. But the appearance of a hairless rodent causes sympathy or dislike in people. Such animals are bred partly from the desire to cause a sensation.

Most animal lovers prefer to keep not white, but more elegant colored mice in their home and school zoos: black, dark and light brown, red, cream, silver (light gray), lilac and bluish-smoky gray, as well as piebald (white with various spots). Quite often there are also mice with natural-colored fur: on the back it is from grayish-sand to dark gray, on the abdomen it is whitish or grayish.

All this variety of laboratory mice differs significantly from their wild ancestors not only in appearance. Tailless and colored, long-haired and white domesticated mice have lost their original fearfulness, are easy to keep and breed. They require very little food and little space. In short, these are not burdensome pets for a novice naturalist.

Mice never bite, quickly and easily get used to the owner. Unfortunately, these tiny creatures have an equally tiny intelligence and emit a strong, specific smell. The latter circumstance is a serious obstacle to keeping a group of such cute multi-colored animals in the living room. Mouse smell can be reduced to a minimum if one or three animals are kept on a thick layer of sawdust that is frequently replaced (at least three or four times a week). By the way, females smell weaker than individuals of the "stronger sex".

The home for mice can be an aquarium or a special organic glass terrarium container with a lattice lid. Mice are good high jumpers and a lid is a must. It is better if it is made of thin metal wire, and not plastic, which rodents can damage over time. You can make a small cage for animals with dimensions in length, width and height of 40 ґ 30-40 ґ 25-30 centimeters from a metal fur mesh, the cells of which do not exceed 10 * 10 millimeters. However, it is less convenient to observe the mice living in such a cage than the inhabitants of a transparent cage. The cage is placed in a plastic or aluminum baking sheet of sufficient size, filled with sawdust. A 2-4 cm layer of bedding is also poured onto its slatted bottom: small wood chips or large sawdust. For the nest, use a small box with a hole for entry or an old flower pot turned upside down with a broken edge. A small, clean glass jar will also work as a cover. The fact that it has transparent walls does not matter to mice.

Make sure that the environment inside the cage is as diverse as possible. Place there a whimsically curved twig, ladder, perch, a stump in the form of a tree stump and, of course, a running wheel, but not plastic. Mice, especially young ones, are very mobile and will gladly use all these simple devices for their cheerful and cheerful "physical exercise".

Do not forget to regularly wash the aquarium or cage with hot water and laundry soap and change the bedding. Flush nest boxes and climbing devices as needed. Let the animals dry thoroughly before putting them back in their home.

Place the cage in a place where the mice could not catch a cold. Small rodents are very sensitive to drafts, and a cold for them is certain death.

Mice are practically omnivores. In nature, living next to a person, they do not refuse sausage, cheese and lard, they eat cereals and other products (by the way, they do not eat paper, but only gnaw). Lab mice love millet, oats and wheat, uncooked sunflower and pumpkin seeds, white bread, dairy products, boiled meat chunks, and egg whites. From succulent feed, they prefer dandelion and cabbage leaves, slices of carrots, cucumbers and beets, green grass, a bun soaked in milk. Sweets, chocolate, fatty and spicy foods should not be given to animals.

So that mice do not grow excessive incisor teeth, solid food is needed: branches of trees and shrubs (except for lilacs, which are poisonous to animals), white bread crackers, and pieces of white school chalk.

As bowls for food, it is better to use stable ceramic or faience cups. And drinking water should be offered exclusively in dropper drinkers. Open bowls of water get dirty very quickly.

It is enough to feed the mice once a day. The daily norm is a teaspoon of grain per animal. You can't overfeed.

Leftover food and contaminated pieces must be removed from the cage in time.

If you decide to let the mouse run around the apartment, be very careful not to accidentally step on it or crush it with a door. Make sure that the animal does not penetrate into any gap from which it is difficult to get out. The main place of residence of the rodent should be a cage, and a place for walking should be the palms of the owner or a table.

Mice are collectivists, so it is better to place two or more animals in a cage.

The question of gender makes sense only when they want to breed mice. Two or three males or two or three females living in the same cage get along well with each other. Moreover, those that are from the same brood, or those that were united together in adolescence, get along better. Letting a newcomer into an established mouse team is a risky business. Sexually mature mice will attack the intruder and may beat him to death.

The sex of the animal is determined by the distance between the anal and urinary openings. In the male this distance is clearly visible, in the female it is very small.

Like all small rodents, mice are very prolific. Already on the 30-49th day of life, the animals can give birth. Pregnancy lasts about 20 days. In each brood, the female brings 6-7 cubs. It can breed up to ten times a year.

Babies are born in a shelter house, where a mother mouse builds a nest from hay, paper and rags. The female touchingly looks after newborns, protects them, feeds, cleans. The father shows parental feelings to the children if there are no other males in the cage.

Newborn mice should not be picked up. A foreign smell will remain on their body, an alarmed mother will stop feeding them, and they will die. For the first two weeks, try not to disturb the female at all: do not change the bedding, exclude perishable food from the diet.

Helpless naked and blind mice grow and develop very quickly. At the age of one month, the babies leave the nest and become completely independent.

The life expectancy of mice is very short: a rare animal lives up to three years. Most often they do not reach old age due to the development of internal tumors.

Try to acquire only young animals for the zoo, otherwise you will have to experience the bitterness of loss too quickly.

Rearing of bats - Ukrainian Bat Rehabilitation Center

So, you have found a baby bat. Your actions:

  1. Carefully inspect the animal for injuries (swelling, bruising, fractures, etc.). If the bat has fractures or injuries, the help of a veterinarian will be needed.
  2. Determine the age of the cub . The age of the cub will depend on its diet and conditions of detention.
  3. Give water to drink, because often the animals are found dehydrated, and the first thing they need is clean boiled water.

Chiroptera are mammals, during the first month of life mothers feed them with milk. Baby bats are not able to fly at first (first mothers wear them on themselves, and then leave them in a shelter for the period of hunting for insects). Sometimes the cubs fall out of the shelter (or fall from the mother) and hide not far from it. If your foundling is not injured, not exhausted, and you can get to the shelter (attic of the house, hollow tree) from which he fell out, the best solution is to return him to his place. A baby bat is very difficult to feed for a lot of reasons, only his mother can do it perfectly. If you have such an opportunity, do it - quietly and gently plant the animal in the shelter.

How to determine the age of a baby bat

Below are photographs of a baby bat of different ages using the example of two-tone leather on . They will serve you to determine the age of your foundling, as well as a guideline in its subsequent development. This cub was initially breastfed, that is, it was fed by its mother, therefore, the timing of the development of the animal may differ slightly on artificial feeding.

1 day:

- completely "bald"

- "blind"

- no teeth

- pay attention to the sides of the tummy, this is how a well-fed baby bat looks like

4 days:

- "blind" Make a wool at

9 days:

- eyes open

- withers, part of the back and stomach are covered with a short coat of

11 days:

- eyes are open

- the whole body is covered with short hair

- tiny teeth

14 days are noticeable:

- the wool becomes longer than

- holding on to the wand, the cub waves wings, but does not jump, since it still does not know how to fly

20 days:

- wool rather long

— dark bases of hairs and light, like silver, tips are clearly visible; grayer than adults

- teeth are almost formed but smaller than adults


- well formed sharp teeth

General rules of keeping

Baby bats are best kept in a box or box with access to air and natural light (but not direct sunlight). Ordinary cages are often not suitable, as the animal can crawl between the twigs. It is a good idea to put and hang pieces of cloth in the shelter so that the animal can hide in them. If you can’t find a convenient box, then a small cloth bag will do.

Keep the animal out of the reach of pets and children!

Bats often have ectoparasites - ticks, fleas, etc. They are not dangerous for humans and domestic animals. If the animal is weak, does not wash itself or is heavily infected, it is necessary to help it get rid of the parasites. They can be removed with tweezers or a damp cotton swab. If you see a need for special treatments, please contact us for further advice.

Age from 0 to 20 days


This animal needs to be kept warm. Maintain a constant temperature around 37 degrees. For this, thermal mats for animals or just a stable bottle of warm water wrapped in a towel (or sock) are suitable. But don't overheat!


Very young mice are fed goat's milk or a special puppy formula (available at pet stores) prepared according to the recipe on the package. Cow's milk is not nutritious enough for baby bats, they will not be able to fully develop on it. The same applies to milk formulas for baby food - the animal lags behind in development.

It is very important that the milk is fresh, boiled and the mixture is prepared just before feeding. Do not leave the finished mixture until the next feeding. Do not add eggs or other ingredients to milk or formula - risk of intestinal infection and death is high. It is also undesirable to change one milk to another. Inventory must be well washed, sterilized or boiled.

Vitamin and mineral supplements are often needed, especially if you are feeding with milk rather than formula. Look in your pet stores for bird vitamin/mineral supplements without gastroliths (sand, pebbles, etc.). The dosage will depend on the selected complex. This question needs to be clarified individually with our specialists.

Feeding schedule

Babies are fed every 2-3 hours, day and night. Grown up - every 3-4 hours. If the animal did not have time to digest the previous portion, and this is noticeable by the enlarged tummy, increase the interval between feedings.

When feeding, hold the animal so that the head is slightly lower than the body. Then the spilled milk will not stain the little body. Feed the animal slowly.

With age, the interval between feedings increases.

Amount of food

Cubs of different species and even of different ages can differ significantly in weight, and therefore the amount of food they need is different. For this reason, we cannot clearly say how much your baby bat should eat.

If you know its weight, you can use the formula for calculating the approximate portion of food: weight of the animal in grams * 0.05 ml. So, for a serving for a 10-gram animal, 10 g * 0.05 ml \u003d 0.5 ml of milk or mixture will be required. We emphasize that this is an approximate portion, everything is individual. If the animal eats with appetite, and then begins to turn away, it means that he has eaten, do not be discouraged.

The portion of the food eaten is conveniently tracked by the scale on the syringe. It is very important not to overfeed the animal . Babies often cannot cope with large volumes of food, bloating begins, which often ends in death. Therefore, feed the animal in small portions, but often. For 1-2 days of observation, you will select portions and feeding regimen suitable for him.

Growing up, the animal eats more food, and the intervals between feedings increase.


Often the plastic tip of a syringe or pipette is too large for this purpose. A syringe (without a needle) is not bad, with a heat-shrink tube put on the spout (you can buy it at a hardware store).

Feeding with a Q-tip soaked in milk is sometimes suitable. The animal just sucks it. When feeding, it is important to ensure that the baby does not swallow air.


At this age, problems often occur with the intestines - stale food or too large a portion. The problems are very serious, it is important and requires attention. Examine the animal's tummy before eating - did the previous portion manage to be digested, is there any swelling, etc. If the animal gets dirty during feeding, wipe these places with a damp cotton swab.

Every time after eating, lightly massage his anus (butt) with a wet, warm cotton swab. This will encourage the baby to poop. This procedure is mandatory up to 2 weeks of age.

It is important to monitor the regularity and character of the stool of small bats - color, consistency. Normally, feces when breastfeeding are yellow, jelly-like. It's black, that's ok. But green indicates problems!


If the found animal is covered with hair, but after some time began to go bald, it means that there are not enough vitamins and minerals in the food. Most often, the first bald spots appear on the chin, abdomen. Also, normally there should be no curvature of the forearm or bones of the fingers. Therefore, periodically inspect the animal. Vitamin and mineral complexes for birds (without gastroliths) are suitable for bats. Contact us for further advice in case of such a problem.

It is convenient to monitor the growth dynamics of the cub by tracking its weight and measuring the length of the forearm. Make such notes daily, as bats grow very quickly. They will allow you to understand how well the diet is chosen and adjust it in time if the animal does not grow.

Normally, young bats at an early age most often sit in a shelter, sleep, eat, wash. From 7-10 days they begin to study the shelter and the world outside it. They are not yet capable of flying, they can only run on horizontal surfaces or climb vertical ones.

Age: more than 20 days

With a normal diet at this age, the cub is already covered with hair, his teeth grow. They are still smaller than in adult bats, but sufficient to chew on solid food, namely insects.


A 24-hour heating pad is not required. Warming is necessary only after feeding. The cub learns to regulate its body temperature - it cools down when it sleeps and warms up when it wakes up. Before feeding, you need to give the animal time to warm up. When warmed, the bat "trembles" all over.


Once your bat's teeth are big enough to chew on solid food, it's time to start feeding on insects. The larvae of the flour beetle are best suited for this. Complementary foods are introduced into the diet of the animal gradually. That is, the main food is still milk or a mixture.

The first evening of complementary feeding - let you try the pomace (innards) of flour beetle, no more than half of the insect, a couple of bites. Most likely, the animal will not understand that you are offering him food, since he has not encountered insects before. You will have to tear off the head of the insect and put a little entrails on the “lips” of the animal. When he licks them off, give him some more pomace. After that, you give a bit of food familiar to him - milk or a mixture. Do not leave the animal unattended, since mealworms are new food for the intestines, the animal is just learning to digest it, and there is a risk of problems with the tummy. Watch the chair and the behavior of the animal. Subsequent feedings are dairy, as usual.

The next evening, offer the baby bat a slightly larger portion of mealworm entrails. And so, for several days, increase the portion of pomace. When the animal begins to eat them willingly and digest them without problems, let him gnaw on the chitin of the flour beetle, quite a bit. Again, he still does not know how to chew, so he will do it awkwardly. Supplement with entrails or milk, and then again observe how the intestines react to new, more solid food. In the future, let the animal eat more and more pieces of flour beetle.

In this way, you will gradually teach the baby bat to eat and digest insects. When he successfully eats the mealworm and digests it, you can gradually increase the amount of mealworm in the diet while reducing the amount of milk or formula. Often these are evening and night feedings with insects, and morning and afternoon feedings with milk or a mixture.

Do not forget about vitamin and mineral complexes. A growing animal needs them every 2-3 days. The dosage is individual and depends on the complex itself and the weight of the bat. Contact our specialists.

If you have picked an animal at 3 weeks of age, have good teeth, but do not fly yet, feed it milk or formula for 2-3 days as described for mice aged 0 to 20 days. Only when the animal is digesting dairy food normally, start feeding insects, as described in this section.

Feeding schedule

An adult animal needs to be fed 5-6 times a day. These are evening and night feedings, as well as morning and afternoon feedings. When the animal is able to feed on insects, gradually remove daytime feedings. Having digested the morning portion of food, he should cool down and sleep until the evening. In the evening, when it gets dark, the animal will wake up on its own, warm up, and then it will be ready to warm up and eat.

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