What to feed baby milk snake

How to Care for Milk Snakes

Table of Contents

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Introduction to Milk Snakes

Size

Milk snakes (Lampropeltis sp.) are among the most common snakes kept in captivity as pets. They come in 24 subspecies and are found from the US down to South America. They are relatives of the king snake, and range in size from 2 feet in length to 6 feet. The colorful Honduran milk snake reaches the 6 foot status.

Coloration

The milk snake's temperament and coloration make this species such a popular pet. With a few exceptions, nearly all milk snakes sport the red, yellow (sometimes white) and black bands that contribute to a milk snake‘s striking appearance. These bands are called “triads”. Variations in the configuration and arrangement of these triads of coloration helps identify the different milk snake subspecies.

Milk Snakes look like Coral Snakes

Milk snakes are often found in the same habitat as the deadly coral snake. Over eons of evolution, milk snakes have taken advantage of the coral snake’s coloration. The coral snake (Micruroides spp.), is the second most venomous snake on the planet. Coral snakes have small mouths that are unable to deliver much of a punch, and they have to chew on a predator, or a person who picks them up, to really deliver much venom. Still, the venom is pretty deadly.

Knowing this, in an evolutionary sense, harmless milk snakes have taken advantage of the venomous snake’s distinctive coloration. Intended as a warning sign, much like a rattlesnake’s rattle, this distinctive coloration of coral snakes signals ‘back off’.

This is called biomimetic. And its purpose is for the non-venomous milk snake to pose as the more deadly coral snake, which signals to potential predators that they might be poisonous (which they aren't).

Different Appearance between Coral Snake and Milk Snake

And it can be hard to distinguish the difference, even for humans, hence the need for pneumonic device such as "Red next to yellow is a deadly fellow, and red next to black is a friend of Jack.”

Origination of the name Milk snake

These harmless snakes have their odd name because sometime back in the dim recesses of human imagination, their frequent presence in barns and around dairy animals made some silly bugger think they were deriving their nourishment by sucking milk from the teats of the farm animals. Sheeesh.

Great Snake for Beginners

These snakes are good for beginners as they are relatively docile and respond quickly to gentle and consistent handling. Although they should not be handled right after eating (wait 48 hours) most other times will suit them. Periods of shedding and brumation (discussed below) should also hands-off times, however. Hatchlings and juveniles are much more hyperactive and nervous than adults, so infrequent handling is recommended. Once a trusting bond has been established, these snakes enjoy physical contact with owners and will crawl playfully up and down the keeper’s arms and body. Once per week for no more than one hour seems to be the sweet spot for maintaining trust and docility. More is not better, as this can stress the snake and lower it’s immune system. To see your pet live up to its fullest life span of 12 years, good husbandry and moderate handling are the keys.

Tank Size

These snakes need room to move, but not too much, as this can make them feel insecure. A juvenile milk snake will do well in a 10 gallon tank for a couple of years. At 3 years old, your snake will have more than doubled in length and will be sexually mature. At this point, a 20-30 gallon tank is advised for smaller species, and a much larger custom tank will be needed for snakes the size of Hondurans.

Despite their tendency to climb, most keepers have had the best success with a horizontally oriented tank, rather than a vertical arrangement.

Clamp the Top Down

The basic elements of the tank should include a suitable substrate, a hide, a warm and a cool side, a water dish/shallow pool and something for the snake to climb and bask on. These guys are escape artists, and if your milk snake can reach the top and the screen is not well secured, he/she can and will make a break for it. In winter, this will undoubtedly end in tragedy, as they will manage to find a place either too hot or too cold for their bodies to sustain a living temperature, unless you find them quickly. If your new tank/terrarium/vivarium comes with a snugly fitting screened top, great, but not sufficient if your pet is more than 30 inches long. Add clamps to two sides, you will thank yourself later.

Substrate

These snakes are burrowers, and so will need deep bedding. Most beginners’ tanks will have a glass bottom. Some advanced models may have a false bottom with some sort of screening to allow feces and urine to sift down. Sort of a fancy cat box type of setup. If you begin with a simpler affair, you will be placing an absorbent material onto paper towel liners that are placed firmly flat against the glass bottom.

A thick layer of aspen shavings is favored by most snake keepers, although many do like cypress shavings just as well. Aromatic woods such as pine and cedar should be avoided as they can cause lung and eye irritation. Three to four inches of covering with these materials provides a light and sanitary bedding that the snake will often disappear under as an alternative to its hide. That’s quite alright, but it is advisable to provide an insulating layer such as felt or reptile carpet under the glass and on top of any heating mats used to be certain the snake will not fall asleep on top of a too hot mat and burn itself. Snakes can and will choose to rest in an area that ends up being too hot for their safety. Think in terms of the old adage about a ‘boiled frog’. As the temperature increases, they don’t always feel it in time to move to a cooler spot. It is up to the keeper to carefully test and retest all surfaces several times weekly to keep your snake safe.

Temperature

The overall temperature of the tank should not exceed 86 degrees F on the warm side, and hover at 76 degrees F on the cool side. For temperature measurement, a digital laser thermometer is a worthy investment. For less than $20, a new keeper can take readings from all over the habitat with the push of a button. Readings should therefore be taken at the surface of the bottom of the warm side, the cool side and any basking areas. Keepers need to remember that the ambient temperature of the room can affect the vivarium, so frequent readings are strongly recommended. A thermostatically controlled under tank heating pad or heating tape will be the most trouble-free and goof-proof.

If a UVB heat lamp instead of under tank heating is in use, it must be turned off for 12 hours per day to maintain a natural diurnal cycle for this diurnal species. That said, when the light is off, the temperature at night should not drop too low. This species does not have to have additional UVB light, but many keepers feel that it gives the animal’s immune system an added boost. Others like the convenience of thermostatically regulated under tank heating.

A cold environment will encourage brumation. Brumation is more or less the equivalent to hibernation in mammals. It is a reaction to insufficient heat necessary for normal activities. Brumation can be deliberate, and is useful if you are attempting to breed your milk snakes, or it can be accidental due to heater malfunction or poor maintenance of temperature regime. Brumation is not strictly necessary for health and may cause your pet to be unnecessarily lethargic, with a greater than normal tendency to hide and refuse food. This is yet another reason why temperature monitoring regularly is really quite important. To avoid brumation, nighttime temperatures in the habitat should not be allowed to drop below 65 degrees F.

Light and Humidity

These snakes generally do not need extraordinary levels of humidifying. Misting once a week is usually enough except during shedding. During shedding, either provide a shedding box filled with dampened sphagnum moss or mist the vivarium twice per day.

Hide

A hide made of something that can be easily sanitized is essential. Plastic may look tacky, but may be more practical, depending on your lifestyle. I love the look of cork wood, but it is really problematic to clean. Dish washer safe hides and bowls are the easiest by far. If you do decide on cork wood as an attractive and snake friendly hide, I would replace it every year. Otherwise, you can try what some reptile keepers do and bake the wood at 250 degrees F for 2 hours.

Habitat Summary

So, to summarize, the minimal basic set-up should include (inside):

an aspen substrate about 3-4 inches deep
a hide
water bowl.

This is minimalistic, and although many keepers would provide only these items, we feel that such a sparse set-up is inadequate for the animal’s happiness. We recommend including

a second hide
a plant
a couple of rocks as environmental enrichment.

Of course, if you are using a bioactive set-up to minimize cleaning, the mandatory substrate and plants should be sufficient that are an essential part of that system will be plenty, in addition to that water bowl and hide.

Diet and Feeding

Feeding Schedule Depends on Milk Snake Age

How often you feed your snake depends on how old it is. Baby snakes don’t even start to think about food until they are two to four weeks old. Once they do, they generally need to eat about 2-3 times per week. More frequent feedings will encourage them to grow faster, if that is what you wish. As your snake gets older, he/she will not need to be fed quite as often. In fact, one of the more convenient things about adult milk snakes is that they only need to eat about every 7 days. Food can be provided right within the habitat or in a separate enclosure.

Should I use a Separate Feeding Enclosure?

The use of a separate feeding enclosure is a subject of debate among fanciers. Some feel that while a separate feeding enclosure may not be strictly necessary, it can sometimes be helpful. One argument in favor is that using a different habitat for feeding times can help to keep the main enclosure cleaner and more sanitary.

A separate feeding enclosure may also be necessary if you are housing more than one snake in a habitat (not recommended) or if you use a substrate that can be ingested. Others feel it is unwise to move the snake to a strange environment, expect it to perform a natural behavior immediately, and then expect it not to throw up when it is handled for the purpose of placing it back in its main home. I have always fed in the vivarium.

What will you be feeding your milk snake?

Depends on how old he/she is. A very young snake can only manage pinkies for quite a few months. After that they will graduate to fuzzies, and then hoppers. Well for the love of Mike, what do all of those terms mean? The terms mentioned above refer to feeder mice, rats have their own designations.

Mice

Pinky: A pinky is a newborn mouse. Ranging from one to three grams in weight, depending on where you purchase them. They have no fur and are high in protein.

Fuzzy: A fuzzy is a slightly older baby mouse, with the beginnings of fur. They are slightly bigger in size and weigh around 3-5g.

Hopper: The next age stage. These are around 5-9g in weight and are fully formed, but not fully grown. They are middle school phase of mouse development.

Rats

The rat equivalent of a pinky would be a ‘rat pup’. These are slightly bigger in size, around 5g.

The rat equivalent of a fuzzy is called a ‘fluff’. And around 10-25g in weight, so quite a substantial difference.

The rat equivalent of a hopper would be ‘weaner’ rat, at around 25-50g.

The size of the prey you choose will depend on whether or not the snake can both swallow and digest it. When in doubt, consider the width of the diner. That is, prey should be no wider than the widest part of the snake's body. Choosing prey that is too large, if it is actually swallowed, can result in regurgitation at the very least (if you’re lucky), with injuries, seizures, partial paralysis, gut impactions, and death being unpleasant possibilities as well. After ingestion, the prey item should make a noticeable bump in the snake’s torso. Just a small one, not one that looks like a softball. That is just asking for trouble.

Should you feed only rodents?

Not necessarily. Juveniles may enjoy crickets now and then, while adults can be offered day old frozen and thawed chicks occasionally. Does the prey have to be alive? Some keepers believe that the live prey offers the ability for the snake to perform natural behaviors. Others claim that this is nonsense and that a rich environment and positive interaction with a human handler should provide sufficient stimulation. The advantages of pre-killed, frozen dinners over live chow are:

Live prey can be too active for young snakes.

Sometimes dinner bites back. Attacks by live prey can permanently disfigure your snake. Injuries caused by live prey can include lacerations to the snake's mouth area and eyes. Cutting through his/her tongue sheath is not uncommon.

Attacks by live prey can traumatize your snake, and it can be very difficult to get that snake to feed on that prey item again.

Pre-killed offerings can last in the freezer for up to six months. Remember to thaw it completely in the refrigerator and warm it to slightly above room temperature before feeding it to your snake. Do not use a microwave for this, but rather a warm bath.

If you feel that you must feed live prey, be sure to provide food for the prey animal if it is not consumed immediately. Watch it closely for any signs that it may be biting or gnawing on the snake. If this happens, remove it immediately and take your snake to the veterinarian.

Tricks to tempt your milk snake into eating pre-killed meals:

Use tongs or hemostats to dangle the prey and "walk" it around the cage to make it appear alive and entice the snake to strike at it.

Sense of smell is very keen in most snakes. Make sure the prey is warmer than room temperature; it will smell more appetizing to your snake that way. You can also pith (pierce) the braincase of the prey with a pin or nail to release even more enticing odors (yum).

Cleaning and Sanitation

Cleaning the habitat is fairly easy and should be done once a month for large snakes and once every two months for smaller snakes in a generously sized habitat. Spot cleaning should be done daily, and examination of the habitat for ‘gifts’ left for you after feeding should be performed twice daily for 48 hours after a meal has been consumed. This will lengthen times between mega-cleanings and keep your snake’s habitat and your snake smelling sweet.

Monthly Cleaning

For the monthly/bi-monthly cleaning, remove and dispose of all bedding. Place dishwasher safe furniture on the top rack of your dishwasher an wash on pots and pans setting. The sides of the now empty terrarium/vivarium may now be spritzed with a bleach solution and allowed to dry.

Do not use bleach stronger than a 10% solution and do not place your snake back inside without wiping down all damp areas after soaking for ½ hour. If the terrarium is glass, and you live in an area with hard water, you can create a clear viewing experience at this monthly cleaning time if you spray any glass sides with vinegar.

Let it do its thing on any calcium build-up for 30 minutes and then wipe down. Wait another ½ hour, replace sanitized furniture on top of new, clean bedding and only then place your snake back in. Of course, if you have bioactive habitat, you need only do this once per year at most as long as you spot clean diligently.

Common Illnesses and Ailments

Proper feeding and sanitation can help to prevent most common illnesses in milk snakes. For example, blister disease is associated with damp, filthy environments and effects the bottom most scales, the scutes, that would be in the most constant contact with any filth. The scutes develop a reddish appearance and if untreated they become swollen and infected by bacteria and fungi. The habitat must receive a comprehensive cleaning immediately and the snake must see a vet, who will probably administer an injectable antibiotic, followed by a course of topical treatments administered twice daily (by the owner).

Other conditions such as mouth rot, respiratory infections, and fungal infections are often a function of a dirty environment. A pus lined mouth, or bubbling nostrils indicate that mouth rot is developing and the animal should see the vet ASAP. Antibiotics and mouth rinsing twice a day may be advised for mouth rot, so prevention is really well worth the time and effort.

If you have recently acquired your snake from a pet store or a breeder that you are not familiar with, or a seller who has shipped your snake to you, and you see lots of white, red, or black dots moving around on your snake, it is time to be concerned. Reptile mites are as common as mites on mammals, but can actually be a lot more harmful. Mites come out at night to feed on the blood of snakes and can cause serious stress, and in some cases death. The first line of defense is to give your milk snake a quick bath in olive oil, and then carefully rub it down with a paper towel to remove excess oil. If this doesn’t solve the problem, you can try a commercial miticide if the animal is an adult. The habitat will need to be stripped, disinfected and treated with the miticide as well. If the snake is a hatchling, or young juvenile then a trip to the vet for a safe prescription miticide is the safest option.

Prevention is the best medicine for these and other conditions. Observe your snake daily, know it’s appearance and behavior like the back of your hand and you will be able to catch any husbandry or sanitation issues quickly. This is better for you, your pet, and your wallet than the alternative.

Happy Herping!

What Do Baby Milk Snakes Eat?

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Do you have a baby milk snake as a pet? If so, you may be wondering what it eats. Baby milk snakes eat small rodents such as mice or rats. They will also eat fish if they are available. Baby milk snakes usually eat every 5-7 days, but this can vary depending on the snake’s size and what it eats. This blog post will discuss what baby milk snakes eat in detail!

What do baby milk snakes eat?

Baby milk snakes are carnivores, which means that they eat other animals. Their diet consists mainly of small rodents such as mice or rats. They will also eat fish if it’s available. Baby milk snakes usually eat every 5-7 days, but this can vary depending on the snake’s size and what it eats.

Regarding what baby milk snakes eat, it is essential to note that they are not picky eaters. They will eat just about anything that they can fit into their mouths. This includes rodents, insects, lizards, and even other snakes! However, their diet should consist primarily of small rodents such as mice or rats.

What do milk snakes eat as pets?

As a pet, your milk snake will eat anything that it can fit into its mouth. This includes rodents, insects, lizards, and even other snakes! However, their diet should consist primarily of small rodents such as mice or rats.

How often do baby milk snakes eat?

Baby milk snakes usually eat every 5-7 days, but this can vary depending on the snake’s size and what it eats. If your snake is eating small rodents such as mice or rats, then it will need to eat more often than if it was eating larger prey.

It is important to note that baby milk snakes should not be overfed. Overfeeding can lead to health problems such as obesity and liver damage. If you are unsure how often to feed your snake, it is best to consult a reptile veterinarian.

What are the consequences of not feeding a baby milk snake enough?

If a baby milk snake does not eat enough, it will begin to lose weight. This can lead to health problems such as metabolic bone disease and organ failure. In severe cases, it can even lead to death. Therefore, it is essential to ensure that your snake is eating enough. If you are unsure how much to feed your snake, it is best to consult a reptile veterinarian.

Do baby milk snakes eat fish?

Baby milk snakes will eat fish if they are available. However, their diet should consist primarily of small rodents such as mice or rats. Baby milk snakes should only be given fish as an occasional treat.

What do snakes eat when they are babies?

When they are babies, snakes eat the same thing as adults. Their diet consists mainly of small rodents such as mice or rats. They will also eat fish if it’s available. Baby snakes usually eat every 5-7 days, but this can vary depending on the snake’s size and what it eats.

How much do you feed a baby milk snake?

It is best to consult a reptile veterinarian regarding how much to feed your baby milk snake. However, as a general rule of thumb, you should feed your snake one mouse or rat per week. This can vary depending on the size of the snake and what it eats.

Do baby milk snakes eat rattlesnakes?

No, they do not. Rattlesnakes are venomous and can kill a milk snake. Therefore, it is best to avoid feeding your milk snake any rattlesnakes.

How long can baby snakes go without eating?

Baby snakes can go without eating for a few weeks, but this will depend on the snake’s size and what it eats. If your snake is eating small rodents such as mice or rats, then it will need to eat more often than if it was eating larger prey. It is best to consult a reptile veterinarian if you are unsure how often to feed your snake.

Milk snake or milksnake, Lampropeltis triangulum nelsoni, in front of white background

How many pinkies do you feed a baby milk snake?

A baby milk snake will eat as many pinkies (baby mice) as it can fit into its mouth. However, it is important to note that baby milk snakes should not be overfed. Overfeeding can lead to health problems such as obesity and liver damage. If you are unsure how many pinkies to feed your snake, it is best to consult a reptile veterinarian.

How long can milk snakes go without heat?

Milk snakes can go without heat for a few weeks, depending on their size and what they eat. If your snake eats small rodents such as mice or rats, it will need to eat more often than if it was eating larger prey. It is best to consult a reptile veterinarian if you are unsure how often to feed your snake.

Are milk snakes friendly?

Milk snakes are generally friendly snakes. However, they can be aggressive if they feel threatened. You should consult a reptile veterinarian beforehand if you consider getting a milk snake as a pet.

Do milk snake bites hurt?

No, milk snake bites do not hurt. However, they can be dangerous if the snake is venomous. Therefore, it is best to avoid getting bitten by a milk snake. If you are unsure whether or not a milk snake is venomous, it is best to consult a reptile veterinarian.

How do you tame a milk snake?

The best way to tame a milk snake is to handle it regularly. The more you handle it, the more comfortable it will become for you. However, it is essential to be careful when handling milk snakes as they can be aggressive if they feel threatened. If you are unsure how to handle a milk snake, it is best to consult a reptile veterinarian.

How do you pick up a milk snake?

It is best to pick up a milk snake by its middle. This will help to prevent the snake from feeling threatened and becoming aggressive. However, if you are unsure how to pick up a milk snake, it is best to consult a reptile veterinarian.

Can milk snakes swim?

Milk snakes can swim, but they do not like to. If you need to put your milk snake in the water, it is best to do so gradually. This will help the snake to get used to the water and prevent it from feeling threatened. However, if you are unsure how to put your milk snake in the water, it is best to consult a reptile veterinarian.

How fast do milk snakes grow?

Milk snakes grow quickly when they are babies. They can grow up to 10 inches in their first year. After that, their growth slows down, and they will only grow 1-2 inches yearly.

When do milk snakes shed?

Milk snakes shed their skin every 4-6 weeks. During this time, it is important to handle the snake gently and avoid stressing it out. If you are unsure how to handle a milk snake during shedding, it is best to consult a reptile veterinarian.

What do milk snakes eat in the wild?

Milk snakes in the wild eat small rodents such as mice and rats. They will also eat lizards, frogs, and birds.

Interesting facts about baby milk snakes

Baby milk snakes are born with their eyes closed.
They open their eyes for the first time when they are about 3-weeks old.
Baby milk snakes are born with a yellow tail. This tail is used to lure prey.
Milk snakes can live for up to 20 years in captivity.
The milk snake is not venomous.
Milk snakes are found in North and South America.

Conclusion

In conclusion, baby milk snakes eat small rodents such as mice or rats. They will also eat fish if they are available. Baby milk snakes usually eat every 5-7 days, but this can vary depending on the snake’s size and what it eats. Do not overfeed your snake, as this can lead to health problems. If you are unsure how often to feed your snake, it is best to consult a reptile veterinarian.

Milk snakes are not typically considered to be friendly snakes. However, they are not aggressive and will usually only bite if they feel threatened. If you want to handle your milk snake, it is best to do so gradually and carefully. If you are unsure how to handle a milk snake, it is best to consult a reptile veterinarian.

You may also read:

What Do Eastern Box Turtles Eat?
What Do Baby Eastern Box Turtles Eat?
What Do Wombats Eat?

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Milk snakes - keeping and feeding

Hello everyone! Milk snakes do well in a terrarium. Perhaps there are no other snakes with such a diverse natural color. Their whole body is painted with red, black, white or yellow rings, which makes them look like a brightly colored "traffic" rod.

The presence or absence of certain colors and their alternation is a specific (more precisely, subspecific) feature. We will talk about milk snakes Lampropeltis triangulutn.

And if we take into account the relatively easy maintenance and breeding and their non-toxicity, then the reason for their popularity among terrariumists becomes clear.

Milk snakes live on a vast territory, from North America to the north of South (the Canadian province of Ontario, a significant part of the United States, Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras, Belize, El Salvador, Nicaragua, Colombia, Venezuela and Ecuador).

The biotopes of these snakes are very diverse: they inhabit deserts, forests and swamps, rising up to 1140 m above sea level in mountainous areas.

Milk snakes can be kept at home

Contents of the article:

Milk snakes are distant relatives of our snakes and belong to the genus King snakes (Lampropeltis).

The large range, different habitats and natural barriers have led to the fact that the coloration of animals within the species has become significantly different. This gave taxonomists the basis to distinguish 25 subspecies of milk snakes, however, in 2009, Ruron and Burbrink, and after them, in 2012, Boundy et al. identified the slate-like milk snake (Lampropeltis triangulum elapsoides) as a separate species Lampropeltis elapsoides.

As a result, 24 subspecies remained, which, you see, is not so little. Among milk snakes there are both dwarfs, barely reaching half a meter, and giants, growing up to 1.8-2 m or more.

Please note that milk snakes may mate with other subspecies to form "Cheburashka" not to be identified.

Why are milk snakes called milk snakes? The fact is that farmers who came to their barns in the morning often saw brightly colored snakes in them, which actually hunted for rodents.

In the event that the cows suddenly lost milk for one reason or another, the ignorant villagers believed that the milk was sucked out by snakes. Similar prejudices are characteristic of other places.

So, in Europe, snakes were blamed for the lack of milk in cows. Even snakes kept in captivity were given milk (they really drink it if there is no water in the terrarium).

For example, think of A. Conan Doyle's "Colorful Ribbon" with a "swamp" viper and a bowl of milk. And now you can often hear the recommendation to feed snakes with milk.

In nature, milk snakes eat rodents, birds, reptiles, amphibians and even insects.

Due to the "brotherly" love for snakes, it is recommended to keep them alone.

Otherwise, one reptile will remain in the terrarium.

Feeding the milk snake

In captivity, the menu of snakes is less varied. Some amateurs believe that it is impossible to give amphibians "milk". I did not conduct such experiments, because all my frogs are too valuable for me, and there are enough mice in the freezer.

On the Internet, I have come across statements that snakes do not take frozen (thawed and motionless) mice. I can say that this is not true. My snakes ate both freshly slaughtered (I don’t give live ones for the reason that food can bite a reptile) mice, and prepared in advance.

At the same time, they did not suffer from appetite, killing several pieces in one sitting. But they refused to eat dead birds and eggs too.

Although, as mentioned above, in natural conditions they do not disdain "chicken".

Hungry snakes are actively looking for food. And at the moment of opening the door in the terrarium, they can fall out of it. Or grab your hand by mistake. Therefore, be sure to hold the food with tweezers.

Although the "milk" is not poisonous, you are unlikely to like bites and holes in the skin. The size of the food should match the size of the snakes.

In some countries, in a fit of upholding the rights of food animals, snakes are often fed with special combined feeds in the form of original sausages or minced meat. At the same time, forgetting about the rights and biological characteristics of predators.

In this case, you have to catch each pet at the risk of being bitten. Next, open his mouth, insert a special syringe into his mouth and pump up the snake with lunch. In this case, the plunger of the syringe must be pressed gently and slowly. Because you can damage the animal's gastrointestinal tract.

You also run the risk of breaking the animal's teeth and damaging the mucous membrane. This can cause various unpleasant diseases such as stomatitis. As you can see, the process is not pleasant, unsafe and requires a lot of time and nerves.

Keeping a milk snake

Milk snakes are typical inhabitants of the soil. They do not need a high terrarium for their maintenance, I will say more, they do not need a large terrarium either. Snakes about a meter long can live perfectly in a terrarium with a volume of about 20 liters.

This is how I keep them in my favorite universal "cases" 50 cm deep, 20 cm high and 30 cm wide.

Sheets of paper, newspapers, sawdust or sphagnum can be placed on the bottom. A green artificial grass mat works well. It is better to have a double set of such rugs. At the time when you wash and disinfect the dirty one, there is already a clean bedding in the terrarium. Shelter is a must.

The easiest and cheapest option is the microwave container! A small hole is cut in the lid, through which a full snake can squeeze through, and a lump of wet sphagnum is placed inside.

More decorative (but also more expensive) shelters are available in pet stores. Snakes do not need plants, they only decorate the terrarium.

But in terrariums, they usually lack light, they wither and die. It is much easier to use artificial decorations for this. You can also place a snag or branch in the terrarium.

I did not notice that the snakes lay on them, however, during the molt it is easier for them to get rid of the old skin, clinging to the unevenness of the tree bark. Stones can also be used for decoration.

Bathing

The terrarium needs a large body of water. Snakes not only drink a lot, but also love to bask in the water, especially during the molting period. The heavier and larger the bathing suit, the better. For example, ordinary plastic cuvettes, even filled with water, reptiles not only move, but also turn over.

The comfortable temperature for snakes is between 20-31°C. Of course, it should be higher under the heat lamp than in the opposite corner to allow the snakes to choose the most comfortable temperature.

By the way, milk snakes are twilight and nocturnal animals. But lighting in a terrarium is necessary. To do this, it is better to use special lamps that emit ultraviolet light. You can buy them at the pet store.

Fanciers who have a large collection of snakes often keep them in plastic containers with ventilation holes.

In the shelves, grooves are milled into which a low-power thermal cable is laid. It should not heat the entire bottom of the container, but only 1/4-1/3 of it. The design in such containers is minimalistic, there are no shelters and lighting in it.

Under such conditions, milk snakes not only grow well, but also reproduce.

There will be questions, ask. Your Andrey.

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Maize snake. Feeding. | Teniura

In nature, maize snakes feed on small and medium rodents, bats, birds and their eggs, occasionally lizards. Are eating unstable, as they hunt for something then they eat it.

Maize is fed at home

laboratory mice
mastomys
rats
hamsters (rare because they are fat)
chickens
quails.

In no case should you feed maize and other snakes with meat from the store, for them it is an inferior food. The snake definitely needs vitamins and trace elements that are in the internal organs of rodents and birds. And wool and feathers are needed for peristaltics, and they come out unprocessed.

Baby feeding

The little maize hatches from the egg and in the first 7-10 days the baby completely absorbs the yolk sac that he has drawn from the egg. Before the first feeding, the baby should make a mistake, shed, and only after that you can start feeding him.

Not all corn snake babies begin to eat immediately after the first molt. In nature, such babies die, and at home there is a chance to teach them to eat on their own, by force-feeding several times.

If you are a beginner and get your first snake, take only one that is already stable on its own and has not had burps. And it will be already a little grown maize, and not a baby.

Babies under 4-6 months of age should be fed every 5-6 days only by newborn naked mice, occasionally hamsters. Growing maize snake should not starve.

Mastomis pebbles

Important! It is better to place a small snake up to a year in a compact container of 10-15 liters, having previously equipped it in accordance with all the rules. In terrariums and containers of large volume and without shelters, maize tend to become stressed and refuse to eat.

Feeding adolescents

Every 3-4 months, as the snake grows, it is necessary to transfer to a larger food and select for each baby individually one suitable KO. The food object should be increased gradually and at the same time feed less frequently. Also be guided by the thickness of the snake: the thickness of the KO can be a maximum of 1. 5 of the thickness of the snake.

Adult snakes can be fed once every 7-9 days pubescent mice, mastomis, newborn rats, quails.

Naked rat

Feeding adult maize

It is enough to feed adult snakes every 7-14 days with a food object of a suitable size and weighing about 40 g: a large mouse, a chicken, a small running rat. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account the size of the snake, the larger the snake, the more KO it can be offered. Too much KO can lead to unwanted burping.

Corn snakes are easy to pick up defrosted food.

Maize snake actively grows up to 3 years.

Thawed day old chick

Feeding and moulting

Do not feed snakes during moulting. Usually grown and adult individuals themselves refuse to eat during molting.

Very small snakes molt quickly, they can shed in one day. It happens in the morning he fed, and by lunchtime the serpent had already left in a molt And usually, together, the processes of molting and digestion of food take place in babies. painlessly.

Feed change

Not all snakes easily switch to a new type of food. If the snake refuses new type of food, you can try to deceive her by rubbing the new type of food with the usual scent food. For example, “rub” a hamster with a mouse.

It happens that a snake eats only live food, it also eats one species, for example, the Dzhugnar hamster, but refuses to eat other food, for example, a mouse. And in this case, you can retrain the snake: put the mouse to the Dzhugnar hamster so that the mouse is saturated with the smell of the Dzhungar. This can take a lot of time, most likely it will not work to transfer the snake to a new type of food the first time.

When to feed

Corn snakes should only be fed after how they are completely fucked up. Adult snakes usually do this on the 3rd day, quite kids - earlier.

Snakes usually drink after they have eaten, so make sure that the water in the drinking bowl is clean.

It is not necessary to give vitamins with meals, because that with complete food, snakes get everything they need, and an overdose vitamins are dangerous.

It is safe to feed animals on the mat. They will not swallow artificial grass with their food.

What to ask when buying corn

When buying corn snake you need find out

Age of maize
Is it stable on its own?
What does maize eat (mouse, hamster… size)?
Exactly how the baby ate (from tweezers to hiding at night...)?
How many times and how did you eat (if a baby)?
Accustomed to thawed food?
When did the baby last eat?

If maize is a few years old weeks stably eats on its own, then, subject to proper maintenance even a beginner has no problems.

If the baby has only eaten once on his own, then it is still very risky for a beginner to take such babies. It doesn't mean baby She is already eating on her own.

And remember, the more you ask about what and how the corn snake eats, the fewer nutritional problems will arise in further.

Important! After moving the snake to a new house (and even a new terrarium), it should not be disturbed for several days, and you can feed it no earlier than after two or three days. The maize snake of any age must get used to the new environment. Stress can cause the snake to stop eating, and worse, regurgitate.

Spitting is highly undesirable for any snake and can lead to further problems or even death of the animal.

Defrost feeding

they refuse the mouse and eat only a live mouse. Some refuse for a long time eat thawed food.

If maize does not eat defrosted try tear (cut) the skin of the KO to increase the smell. Leave KO for a while time with the snake, maybe she needs time or some specific conditions.

All snakes prefer a certain way of eating, e. g. and so on.

When the snake must not be disturbed

After feeding the snake, in no case do not disturb it, and even more so do not pick up, remember, this can lead to such adverse effects, such as burping of feed.

When a snake is molting, it must not be disturbed either. At the same time, during molting, some animals become inactive and lethargic, while others, on the contrary, become aggressive and nervous.

Spitting

If this happens, do not disturb the pet and pause feeding for at least 10 days for snakes of any age. After a break, start feeding the snake half as much food as usual.

Why won't the corn snake eat?

The reasons for refusing to eat can be different and only understanding the reason, you can answer the question of how to feed.

Stress . Maybe in a new environment (moving to a new house, to a new terrarium) or after some of your manipulations. In this case, you should feed the snake on the second or third day, so that she gets used to it, calms down, in no case earlier.

Not hungry. Feed too often. Overfeeding and "acceleration" of growth snakes inevitably leads to obesity of varying degrees, even in young individuals. And this in turn leads to health problems and even death of the animal.

Constipation. You can help the animal to make a mistake - let it swim in a warm water. If this does not help and constipation for a long time, then you need to contact your veterinarian, to understand the causes and eliminate them.

Never ate by myself. It happens that small maize are not fed from birth on one's own. In this case, you need to try different KOs and different methods. feeding and only if nothing helped, then feed the baby forcibly. Feed maize baby should definitely be entrusted to a veterinarian or an experienced terrariumist. It happens that you have to "shove" small corn several times before they start eating on their own.

Molting snake. The snake has already begun the process of molting, but it is not noticeable yet. At some snakes only by their blue eyes can be seen that they are in molt, although the process starts earlier.

Poor conditions of detention . For example, there is no temperature difference or insufficient heating in a warm corner The low temperature leads to a decrease in the snake's appetite and activity of the digestive processes.

Sexual behavior and reproduction. Male over 2 years old (sometimes earlier) from February to April maybe in a race. Refusals from food can be long - up to several months.

The female may be pregnant. Pregnant females often lie in a warm corner and may refuse food throughout pregnancy until masonry. But offer KO is a must for a pregnant female.

Females can lay unfertilized (fatty) eggs even without mating with a male. If the snake has not laid fatty eggs, it “dissolves” them and feeds on it for some time.

Unusual KO. Snakes may refuse an unfamiliar prey item. If, for example, a snake has always eaten mice, then a chicken may be abandoned. snake can refuse stale KO, and that's good, otherwise there may be problems health and even death.

Disease. In this case, you should definitely contact your veterinarian and treat the animal.

How to feed the corn snake

If you cannot find a suitable KO for your pet, remember that maize in good shape can live without food.

How to feed maize:

Wait a few days, the snake may shed or become cloudy. In this case, feed the snake after the molt.
Set up shelters in warm and cool corners, the snake may be refusing to eat due to stress.
Try another KO of a suitable size (hamster, quail, chicken). “Feed” an unusual KO with a familiar smell. For example, put the mouse for some time to the jungarik.
Cut the skin of the defrosted KO in several places to smell it.
Try to give a live CO. There are individuals who refuse to eat defrosting.
If maize is already an adult, older than 2 years, then you can not feed it for a month and offer food after a hunger strike.
The snake can be gently wintered at 18-20 degrees for 3-4 weeks. When the temperature returns to normal - feed.
Small maize to leave naked in a shelter for the night.
If the animal is losing weight, shedding continuously, has sores in the mouth or other symptoms, you should contact your veterinarian and treat the animal first.
Pregnant females refuse to eat at the end of the term, they are not able to digest food.

If the corn hasn't eaten, offer KO again in a week. Be sure to check the conditions of detention: temperature, availability of clean water, put opaque shelters in different temperature zones.

Overfeeding

The basic rule of feeding snakes is that it is better to slightly underfeed than to rush to increase KO, overfeed and get problems in the form of burping, loss of pet health (obesity, malfunction of internal organs) or even death of the animal.