Baby cockatiel hand feeding formula
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Emergency Hand Feeding
Formula Recipe For strong, healthy baby birds, always use a high quality, commercial brand, baby bird hand feeding formula which you can purchase at a pet shop. They contain all of the nutrients needed to raise healthy birds. Although breeders frequently add 1/2 baby food applesauce to the morning feeding to help the crop drain, experimenting with homemade formula recipes, instead of using a commercial brand can result in babies having crop problems, stunted growth and poor feather quality, You should always have hand feeding formula available if you are breeding birds, even if you don't plan on hand feeding the chicks. Sometimes an emergency occurs and you have to hand feed a baby unexpectedly. If you don't have hand feeding formula and pet shops are closed, this recipe will make a formula for baby birds until you are able to buy some the next day.
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A few degrees higher and
you will burn the crop. A few degrees lower and the baby will have
crop/digestive problems. If you don't have a thermometer, test the formula by
putting a drop on your eyelid. Sometimes babies will eat from a small spoon if you dip
their beak in it. For further and normal hand feedings, use a disposable
syringe.
Protocols for the hand-raising and care of cockatiels (Nymphicus hollandicus)
Corina Gardner
Introduction
Cockatiels (Nymphicus hollandicus) are native to Australia and were first identified in the mid 1700’s. It is unclear when they were first imported out of Australia, but they were found in Europe in the 1800’s and have been exported to all parts of the world in the last few decades. They have been bred in captivity for over a hundred years now.
Cockatiels are intelligent, gentle and playful birds.
They are usually very inquisitive and will thoroughly investigate anything everything that is around them. Individual cockatiels have very distinct personalities, behavior traits, and their own likes and dislikes. For example, grinding its beak indicates that the bird is sleepy and relaxed. These gregarious birds make one of the most popular pet birds today.
Cockatiels are naturally sociable birds and enjoy human contact. Hand-reared cockatiels are particularly easy to tame. Even cockatiels which have not really had very much human interaction but have been introduced into the company of humans adjust very well. Our cockatiels greet us when we get home by whistling and calling out. Most pet cockatiels even enjoy eating when their owners are having their meals. They crave attention and have a distinct call when they don’t want you to walk away from them. They can sometimes be incorrigible. If they are aware that they a particular behavior will annoy you, then that’s precisely what they will do.
General Guidelines for hand-rearing baby cockatiels
Often, young and inexperienced parents may abandon their nests and refuse to feed baby birds. Such a situation would demand immediate intervention and you will have to care for the baby birds yourself. If there happens to be another pair of cockatiels with a brood of chicks of a similar age, then chances are that the parents may accept and care for the abandoned chicks. Regrettably, this is seldom the case.
Hand-rearing a baby cockatiel is an extremely challenging and time consuming task that requires absolute dedication and patience. Baby cockatiels, which are also commonly called pinkies, are extremely delicate and fragile and therefore require immense amount of diligence while handling. As this is the most vulnerable part of their lives, special care must be taken to ensure the survival of these baby birds.
Feeding and hygiene
A disposable syringe, which is easily available in most medical stores, can be used for feeding the young birds.
If unavailable, then the next best alternative would be to use an eye dropper or a plastic teaspoon. The slender tip of the spoon can be dipped in boiling water and then bent make a funnel, thus making it easy to use for hand feeding.
After feeding, the feeder (spoon, syringe or dropper) must be rinsed with warm water to remove any bacteria. Mild soap or detergent can be used to clean the feeder; however, it must be washed thoroughly so that no soap residue remains.
Baby bird formulae, for example, Kaytee Exact, available in most pet stores would be an ideal feed. However, as it is not easily available in India, baby formula like Cerelac can be used instead. If however neither of these is available, then a piece of bread can be crumbled in lukewarm milk and fed to the young birds - but I would only use this as a last resort. The formula must be prepared in a glass container as plastic containers tend to harbor bacteria. The consistency of the formula should be similar to that of a soft pudding – neither too thick, which would make it difficult for the baby to swallow and it may choke, nor too diluted as the baby could inhale the formula into its lungs causing aspiration.
The formula must only be heated adequately before feeding the baby. Formula that is too hot will scald the baby bird’s crop, causing crop burn. Crop burn is the scalding of a chick’s crop and esophagus. For the same reason, formula must never be heated in a microwave. On the other hand, formula that is cold will cause sour crop. Sour crop is a condition in which the formula in the baby’s crop has gone bad and the contents of the crop has not emptied.
The baby bird can be placed on a napkin or towel on a table or kitchen counter and held gently while feeding. The aim is to emulate the parent bird as much as possible. Parent birds tap on the baby bird’s beak to stimulate the feeding response. So, gently tap the bay bird’s beak with the feeding instrument in a similar manner to encourage the feeding response. The feeding response is when the baby gapes for food, bobbing its head up and down. Parent birds then feed their chicks by inserting their beaks at an angle, through the side of the baby’s mouth.
They then regurgitate the food deep into the baby bird’s mouth. Therefore, insert the tip of the feeding syringe at an angle at either sides of the baby’s beak. Press the plunger slowly, stopping every now and then, so as to allow the baby time to swallow. The speed of feeding must never be hastened. Enough time must be allowed for the baby to swallow its food before pressing on the plunger any further. Once its crop is full, not over-extended, and it has had enough to eat, the baby will stop gaping and refuse to open its beak. Feeding must be stopped immediately. Over feeding can cause formula to flow into the throat and down its windpipe, which can be life threatening. The baby must not be forced to feed when it is reluctant to accept food. The beak and feathers of the baby must be wiped gently with a warm, damp cloth after feeding.
1-7 day old baby
New born cockatiels are born totally helpless, eyes closed, pink with a few downy feathers.
Ideally, feeding should start at 6 a.
m. and continue until midnight. The baby should be fed every 2 hours. A day old chick would require approx 1 ml of formula per feed, which can be gradually increased to 2 ml by the 4th day and 3 ml by 7th day. It is unnecessary to give the baby any additional water as they receive sufficient fluids in their feed itself. It is unnecessary to feed the baby at night as in nature, parent birds as well as their babies sleep at night.
2-3 weeks
Pin feathers begin to erupt in the second week of the baby’s life & the eyes usually open around the 8th -10th day.
The baby can be fed every 3 hours. The feed quantity must be increased to 4-5 ml per feed. Feeding must still begin by 6 a.m., however, the last feed could be given by 10 p.m.
3-4 weeks
The baby still has a few pin feathers.
The formula should now be of a thicker consistency and the feed quantity can be increased to 6 ml per feed. The frequency of feeding can be decreased to a feed every 4-5 hrs.
The baby’s crop usually empties within 4 hrs. A crop that remains full or does not empty completely within that time indicates that there is a problem. The crop is a muscular pouch near the throat of the baby bird that is used to store excess food for subsequent digestion.
4-5 weeks
The baby birds start to develop flight feathers by this age and are now called fledglings. They also start foraging (searching for food) themselves by this age. Feed quantity can now be increased to 8 ml per feed and the frequency of feeds can be decreased to 2-3 feeds a day. The weaning process must begin by the time the baby is 5 weeks old.
Weaning foods such as greens, bits of toast and bread, crushed and grated boiled eggs (along with the shell) and cream cracker biscuits can now be offered to the young birds. This mixture is an easily digestible substitute and ideal during rearing of young birds. Mixed bird seeds such as millet (durra), foxtail millet (kheri), finger millet (ragi), sunflower seed, etc.
should also be given to the birds.
6-7 weeks
The young bird is quite independent now and it’s time to transfer the bird to a cage. Although they feed well by themselves at this age, they must be watched vigilantly to ensure they are eating well. If necessary, feedings can be continued once or twice a day.
Mixed bird seed, which is available in most pet stores, should also be given to the bird. In the event that bird seed is unavailable then large millet seed (bajra), finger millet (ragi), foxtail millet (kheri), sunflower seed (suraj mukhi), safflower (beni or kardi) seed, pumpkin (kaddu) seed, boiled maize (makki) and soaked gram (chana) can be provided. It’s always advisable to offer the young birds entire or un-hulled seeds as hulled seeds tend to decay and mold. Seeding grass, French beans, and carrots are always a welcome treat as well. Green leafy vegetables such as lettuce, mustard sprouts, millet sprouts and fenugreek (methi) leaves is essential along with other weaning foods.
By 8 weeks of age, the bird should be completely weaned.
Foods that are toxic for cockatiels include apple pips, avocado (makhanphal), cherries and peaches (aadu). Never give your birds chocolate, as it may make your bird seriously ill.
In the event that the bird suffers an upset stomach or diarrhea, indications of which include watery green droppings, a pinch of Ridol or Kaltin or any other binding tablet can be crushed and mixed in a half container of water and offered instead of plain drinking water.
Grit, which is a mixture of sand and stones, and cuttle-bone, which is rich in calcium and phosphates, should be given to the birds periodically. Clean, fresh drinking water must be provided daily. The feed and water containers must never be placed directly beneath perches as the bird’s dropping will foul the contents.
It’s also a good practice to provide a shallow dish for the birds to bathe in. Another option would be to use a spray mister (plant atomizer mister), filled with warm water, not hot water.
Many a time you’ll find your bird flapping its wings and hanging upside down from its perch, this usually indicates that the bird wishes to bathe. You will know that he is enjoying his bath when he puffs out his feathers, raises both his wings up and away from his side and leans forward.
Housing the young birds
A shoe-box or small cardboard box with adequate holes for ventilation, a wicker basket or even a small aquarium may be used to house the young birds. The box can be lined with a soft towel at the base and a few layers of tissue papers on top of the towel, making it easy to change the paper towels when dirty. The box must be placed in a warm, dry place, preferably near a source of warmth. A heating lamp, with a light bulb of maximum 40 watts, can be placed above the box. The lamp must be placed at least 12” away from the box. The ideal temperature for the baby birds would be about 35.5° Celsius (or 96° Fahrenheit). Again, it is crucial to be vigilant and ensure that the baby is not being overheated.
A clear indication of overheating would be when the baby’s beak is open (as if panting) and wings are held away from its body. On the other hand, if it’s huddled and shivering, it is not receiving enough warmth. At night, partly cover the box with a light towel to keep out the light from the heating lamp and thus enable the baby to sleep.
It must be noted that the purpose of the lamp is to provide warmth alone, and not light, and it must never interfere with the natural light patterns and disrupt the baby bird’s sleep cycle. In nature, cockatiels nest in hollow tree trunks in wooded areas, where not much light enters. Even when in captivity, the parent bird sits on the baby, shielding it from most of the light. The heating lamp may be discontinued after the baby crosses 2-3 weeks of age and is covered with its first layer of feathers.
Ants are a real danger to baby birds and can fatally hurt them. It must be ensured that there are no ants in the vicinity of the bird.
Once shifted to a cage, it must be ensured that the cages are spacious enough to allow free movement between perches.
Perches should be placed just above the floor of the cage so that the bird can easily climb onto them. The cage must be located in a well lighted location with a source of natural light such as sunlight. Avoid exposing the birds to a cold breeze or draught, especially at night, as this causes chills and other health problems.
Fresh, natural branches of Indian lilac or neem (Azadirachta indica)and other trees should be provided as perches as this helps to keep the feet and claws of the birds healthy and strong. It not only strengthens their jaws and sharpens their beaks but keeps them occupied as well. Birds are otherwise prone to boredom and feather plucking.
It’s advisable to cover the cage with a cloth at night as it gives the bird a feeling of security. If you get too near the cage at night, you might find him hissing. This is a fine demonstration of his protest to your invading his personal space and literally translates as, “don’t get in my face”. Beak-banging is a common male cockatiel trait that indicates he is looking for attention.
Clipping toenails
In the wild, birds’ nails are naturally smoothened out on a range of surfaces but this may not the case in captivity. However, if it transpires that your bird’s nails have grown too long then clipping them becomes inevitable.
Overgrown toenails are likely to get caught on a perch, cage wire, tray or fabric. This can cause deep discomfort, distress and even injury to your bird. Clipping a bird’s nails is a traumatic event at the best of times, both for the bird and the owner, and so it must only be done when the bird’s nails are very overgrown.
Special nail clippers, which have a rounded edge, should be used to trim the nails of your bird. Take care to only clip the tip of the nail, clipping too much will cause the toe to bleed. If the toe starts to bleed, Nebusulf powder which contains the antibiotic Neomycin, must immediately be applied to the wound.
Sexing Cockatiels
Both males and females look remarkably alike especially until they reach sexual maturity.
One way to distinguish between the sexes is that the males sing and whistle while the females don’t. Males have bright orange patches on their cheeks, while females have duller patches. Another distinguishing aspect is that females have pale yellow/white dots on the underside of their wings and yellow/white barring on their tails. Males simply do not have this characteristic.
Cockatiels are not generally aggressive and have a good natured disposition. However, in the event that male cockatiels are kept together in a cage, there is a possibility of the dominant male pecking the more timid male, perhaps even preventing it from eating. The solution would be a larger cage with two food trays and two water trays. If however, the dominant male continues pecking the timid male, than separate the birds into different cages.
Egg binding
Egg binding is a medical condition when a female bird is unable to expel an egg. Egg binding can pose a serious threat to cockatiels.
Younger females are at a greater risk of dying from egg binding. In the event that a female cockatiel is suddenly puffed-up and listless, it is quite likely due to egg-binding.
The female must immediately be placed in a small cage or shoe-box and provided with additional warmth. A heating lamp would be ideal. Castor oil or even cooking oil can be gently applied in to the birds vent or cloaca, with a Q-tip (a cotton bud) to lubricate the area and facilitate the passing of the difficult egg. One drop of castor oil given orally will also help the passage of the egg. If these basic requirements are provided it is unlikely that the bird will suffer any serious health issues.
Breeding
Cages for breeding cockatiels should be an average size of 20”X20”X50”. The nest-box in the breeding cage should be 9”X11”X12” with a 2” opening. The nest-box can be mounted on the outside of the cage. Most cages now come equipped with a small door at the side of the cage which can be used as an entry to the nest-box.
If on the other hand birds are housed in aviaries then the box can be placed inside the aviary itself. Nesting material should consist of pine shavings, shredded paper & freshly cut grass.
Cockatiels live for an average of 15-20 years in captivity and breed well in captivity. Males mature by 12 months of age while females mature by 18 months of age. When a female cockatiel is ready to mate she will sit low on a perch with her tail in the air while emitting a peeping sound while males will tap their beaks on the cage to gain the female’s attention. The eggs are laid a week after mating. The eggs hatch after a period of 21 days. Cockatiels usually lay a clutch of 4-8 eggs, twice a year.
Freeing cockatiels
Freeing cockatiels is just not an option as they will surely be attacked and killed by other predatory birds such as hawks, kites, shikras, crows, etc. as they are vulnerable and unable to fend for themselves. They will also be vulnerable to other predators such as cats, snakes, rats, etc.
unless they can find themselves a safe place to roost.
In the wild, cockatiels forage for grain (usually on farms), feed on grass seeds, leaves, vegetables and fruit. Locating such food sources, especially in environments they are not native, would be extremely difficult. Needleless to say, this would be even more difficult in a city.
References
Barrie, A. (1997) Guide to owning a cockatiel. T.F.H. Publications, New Jersey
Grindol, D. (1998) The complete book of cockatiels. Howell Book House, New York
Grindol, D. (2001) Cockatiels for dummies. For Dummies, New York
Mancini, J.R. and Haupt, T. (2008) Cockatiels (Complete pet owner’s manuel). 2nd Ed. Barrons Educational Series, New York
Photographs used
Lucy. Female cockatiel.
Available from:
http://www.cockatiel-birds.com/parrot/7055/female_cockatiel
[Accessed: 21/11/2011]
Corina Gardner. Bent spoon feeder.
Corina Gardner.
Juvenile cockatiel.
Devna Arora. Disposable syringe feeder.
Brett Donald. Adult male.
Available from:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bdonald/3032933616/
[Accessed: 23/11/2011]
Dylan Ashe. Feeding a baby cockatiel.
Available from: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ackook/page49/
[Accessed: 23/11/2011]
Dylan Ashe. New born cockatiel.
Available from: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ackook/page49/
[Accessed: 23/11/2011]
Dylan Ashe. 1 week old cockatiel. Available form:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ackook/504676509/in/photostream
[Accessed: 23/11/2011]
Dylan Ashe. 3 weeks old cockatiel.
Available form: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ackook/page48/
[Accessed: 21/11/2011]
Dylan Ashe. 4 weeks old cockatiel.
Available form: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ackook/page48/
[Accessed: 21/11/2011]
Dylan Ashe. 5 weeks old cockatiel.
Available form: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ackook/page47/
[Accessed: 21/11/2011]
Lianne.
Enjoying a mist bath.
Available from: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ysaleth/2834585666/
[Accessed: 26/11/2011]
Matrixphere. Cockatiel bathing. Available from:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/matrixphere/73109842/
[Accessed: 26/11/2011]
Ulf Gotthardsson. Cockatiel foraging. Available from:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ulfgotthardsson/2981225192/sizes/l/in/
set-72157608229228990/
[Accessed: 21/11/2011]
Further reading
Excellent photographs on the entire stage of cockatiel chick development by Dylan Ashe can be viewed through the following links
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ackook/page47/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ackook/page48/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ackook/page49/
Cockatiel Mist Bath by 3sugarbeans
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pA47Mpn05YQ
Cockatiel Bath Time! by m4tt1600
http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=kWCPDMHaeGU&feature=endscreen
Edited by Devna Arora
Published in 2011
Cockatiel chicks: care, feeding, photo, video
Parrot breeders can tell a lot about keeping pets from their experience, but not everyone knows how to provide proper care and feeding when cockatiel chicks appear in the house.
In the article you will find answers to these questions, as well as how to select a suitable pair for breeding and the stages of development of the offspring that have appeared.
Contents of the article
- How to choose a healthy pair for breeding
- The emergence and development of cockatiel chicks
- Foster chicks
- Feeding mix options
- When cockatiel chicks can be taken from their parents
How to choose a healthy breeding mate
Choosing the right breeding mate starts with buying birds. Healthy parents lead to healthy offspring, so take the choice of cockatiels very seriously.
Purchase parrots from reliable breeders or nurseries. There, their age is more likely to be known and you can be sure that the birds were kept in suitable conditions and fed quality food. For more information on how to choose cockatiels, read this article. nine0003
Once the birds have settled into your home after purchase, observe them.
If you notice that cockatiels have chosen each other among other birds in the aviary, this is the best pair to take for breeding.
In nature, cockatiels choose their partners on their own, therefore at home it is worth adhering to the same principles.
If you have only one cockatiel, then it will be more difficult to find a pair for him. After all, it is not known how your pet will react to the appearance of your chosen partner, whether they will like each other. nine0003
Therefore, do not rush to put a newly bought parrot in a cage with your pet. Let them get used to each other a little.
The habituation process is quite simple: put the birds in different cages and put them side by side. In a few days they will get to know each other and get used to each other.
Attention! You need to plant a newly acquired parrot with a partner who has been living with you for a long time no earlier than two to three weeks after they met.
If you notice that the birds do not react aggressively to each other, but, on the contrary, show interest, then they may well form a pair.
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It is important that at this moment they are healthy, otherwise the offspring from sick parrots will cause a lot of problems later.
After you put them together in an aviary or in a cage, cockatiels can begin to care for each other, feed a partner and start mating games. So it's nesting time. You will need to prepare a nesting house and change the diet by increasing animal products in it, adding mineral supplements and grain sprouts.
Emergence and development of cockatiel chicks
After 21-23 days after laying the first egg, chicks appear one after another. They hatch blind, covered with a thin yellow down, weighing only 4-5 grams. Over the next week of life, they gain weight and become four times heavier - their weight is already 20 grams. At the same time, they begin to publish a calling squeak when they are hungry. At this time, parents constantly warm the cubs, because due to the lack of plumage they are very sensitive to temperature changes, they can get sick and die.
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The eyes of cockatiel chicks open after 10 days of life. By this time, they are already gaining 40 grams in weight, hold their heads well and make loud clicks or squeaks. Then, under the newborn fluff, the beginnings of the emerging plumage begin to appear.
Important! Ringing cockatiel chicks is carried out approximately on the tenth day of life.
On the 14th day, the beginnings of the crest characteristic of the cockatiel appear on the head of the young. The beak with its shape of a grin begins to resemble the beaks of adults. The chicks already weigh 80 grams. nine0003
If at first, feeling hungry, they uttered a squeak, a little later the sound became “poking”, then it becomes similar to croaking or snoring. Hungry babies make a lot of noise.
All this time, the parents feed the chicks first with goiter milk, and then, when the milk stops being produced, with semi-digested food.
On the 20-21st day of life, the yellow fluff from the body of the birds is already completely gone.
Their views are already meaningful and curious. Chicks try to imitate the behavior of their parents. nine0003
The next week is busy for young individuals: the tuft on the head becomes longer, the entire surface of the body is covered with feathers, a characteristic “blush” appears on the cheeks - orange-red spots. The chicks are already beginning to peck at seeds and grains, that is, they are becoming able to feed themselves.
Monthly birds are already starting to make their first attempts to fly out of the nest. At about six months of age, they leave him forever. For about another 2 weeks, the chicks are fed by their parents until they can completely do without them. nine0003
In this video you will see with your own eyes the development of cockatiel chicks from birth to full independence:
Nursing chicks
It happens that some female cockatiels do not have a maternal instinct and after hatching the chicks do not begin to feed them.
Babies can live without food for several hours, but if the fasting drags on, it is fraught with their death.
If the female has not started to feed her offspring, and you have a couple of cockatiels busy breeding, try laying eggs in another nest. If the female refuses the chicks there, be prepared to feed them yourself. For this, a special infant formula is prepared. It should not be thick and have a temperature of + 36-37 ° C. nine0003
Take a budgie, put it back to your palm and inject a drop of the mixture on the side of the beak. If the chick is not too weak yet, he will readily swallow it.
These chicks are fed every 2 hours even at night. Only after seven days it will be possible to switch to feeding at three-hour intervals, and at night (22.00-6.00) feeding is completely canceled. The amount of the mixture will need to be gradually increased.
At the age of two weeks, fosterlings are fed with small millet porridge and baby cereal mixtures. nine0003
At three weeks old cockatiel chicks are already accustomed to eating food with their beaks from a spoon or other container.
And the older they get, the better they get at it.
Feeding options
There are no difficulties in preparing formula for cockatiel chicks. There are several recipes for feeding these babies, you can choose any of them:
- Infant formula powder (1 tbsp) and semolina (2 tbsp) are mixed with crushed calcium glycerophosphate and glucose tablets (three each) and boiled chicken eggs (two pieces). The mixture is given to the chicks. nine0008
- Tablets of calcium gluconate and glucose (2 pieces each) are turned into powder, as well as one tablet of vitamin C, mixed with crumbled white crackers (one and a half tablespoons) and chopped boiled egg. This mixture is given to chicks from 8-10 days old.
- Powder of infant formula (1 tbsp) and semolina (3 tbsp) are mixed with calcium gluconate and glycerophosphate (one tablet each) and boiled egg (one piece), grated carrots (1 tbsp. .l.) and 3-4 drops of fish oil (it can be given no more than once every seven days).
This nutrient mixture is fed to chicks at the age of three to four weeks. Daily rate - 1 tsp. nine0008
When cockatiel chicks can be taken from their parents
Usually parents feed their offspring for two months. However, sometimes the female can make a new clutch, and then feeding ends earlier.
If this happens, the owner must take the young and place them in another cage. In this case, the feeding of cockatiel chicks falls entirely on the person. Although this has its own plus: fosterlings quickly become tame, as they are accustomed almost from birth to reach out to a person in search of food. nine0003
The readiness of young animals for independence can be determined by their behavior: they confidently sit on the perches and eat food on their own. Then you can put them away. Chicks of different pairs of cockatiels, if they are about the same age, can be kept in the same aviary or spacious cage. But for the time being, they should not be planted with adults, since the elders can attack the young.
Before six months of age, cockatiel chicks need special attention and care, as they are still very sensitive to drafts, feed quality and hygienic conditions. nine0003
Watch this video to learn about the intricacies of care and feeding of cockatiel chicks:
Mixtures for feeding cockatiel chicks
When breeding cockatiels, it may be necessary to feed or supplement the chicks. In America, Kaytee's cornmeal-based feed is commonly used for this. In Europe, breeders use feeds such as Quikon and NutriBird.
NutriBird (already available in our country) is based on fine wheat flour with the addition of lactobacilli and enzymes similar to those produced by the goiter of cockatiel parents. nine0003
The numbers in the name of the feed of this company indicate the percentage of protein.
It is very easy to use ready-made dry food for artificial feeding of cockatiel chicks.
They can be used instead of breadcrumbs in various egg mixtures used when feeding chicks by parents. Preparing liquid formula for feeding is also not difficult. Dry food is diluted with boiled warm (about 50 C) water to the consistency of thick sour cream. As soon as the mixture cools down to a temperature of 40-41C, it can be fed to the chicks. nine0003
For the first days cockatiel chicks are fed every 1.5-2 hours, week-old chicks should be fed every 3-4 hours.
Mix No. 1
Grated white crackers - 1.5 tablespoons, hard-boiled egg - 1 pc., Calcium gluconate - 2 tablets, glucose - 2 tablets, vitamin C - 1 tablet.
Pound tablets and dragees to a powder state, add grated crackers to them, mix the resulting mass thoroughly, then add a chopped chicken egg to it. Start giving the mixture to cockatiels as soon as the chicks hatch and give it daily until the last chick is 8-10 days old. nine0003
Chicks need special nutrition
Mix No. 2
Semolina - 2 tablespoons, powdered milk formula with oatmeal for baby food - 1 tablespoon, hard-boiled egg - 2 pcs.
, Calcium glycerophosphate - 3 tablets, glucose - 3 tablets.
Grind the tablets into powder, add dry milk mixture and semolina to them and mix, then chop the eggs and mix the finished mass again.
Mix No. 3
Semolina - 3 tablespoons, grated carrots - 1 tablespoon, powdered milk formula for baby food - 1 tablespoon, hard-boiled egg - 1 pc., Calcium gluconate - 1 tablet, calcium glycerophosphate - 1 tablet, fortified fish oil - 4 -5 drops. nine0003
Grind the tablets to a powder, add the dry milk mixture, semolina and mix thoroughly. Then add chopped egg. Enter fish oil into grated carrots and mix it with the rest of the ingredients. This mixture is intended for feeding chicks at the age of 3-4 weeks.
Growing chicks are given 1 teaspoon of the mixture every day. Fish oil is added to the feed no more than 1 time per week.
There are couples where the birds may not initially feed the chicks. or then refuse. Also, it is necessary to take the chick if the parents begin to pluck.
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You can buy Heinz Dairy-Free 7-Grain Infant Formula, plain buckwheat without additives. dilute to a creamy state (so that it is not liquid and not thick) In this mixture, add a little boiled egg and 1 drop of ampoule calcium gluconate, also carrot juice.
You can cook your own porridge without salt and sugar. Steam buckwheat in a container - pour boiling water 2 times and cover. Also add a little boiled egg, 1 drop of gluconate and carrot juice - 3-4 drops. Pass all this through a blender. nine0003
Formula-fed chicks should be kept warm at 25-30°C for two weeks. A cardboard box with a heated bottom is quite suitable for this. Since the chicks do not yet have plumage, they are not able to maintain body temperature. And if the temperature at the bottom is too high, it will cause anxiety for the chicks, they will start to suffocate. Lower the temperature or place a towel between the heated bottom and the chicks. Keep the lid of the box closed. Poultry farmers sometimes use an electric incubator for this.
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After hatching, the parrots should be placed with some good pair, since all parrots feed their chicks with secretion from the crop in the first days of life. These are the most difficult and responsible days in the life of the chicks. When the chicks open their eyes, and this is on the 10-12th day, and begin to eat solid food, they can already be fed semi-liquid porridge cooked from the “Kid” milk mixture with semolina and oatmeal. This mixture contains all the necessary nutrients for chicks. When feeding, the chick is held in the left hand, and food is brought with the right. The porridge should be warm - the chicks will not eat the cooled porridge. nine0003
Parrots quickly get used to the feeding regime and already recognize the food from a distance. It is better to feed them from a teaspoon. Soiled chicks should be cleaned of food debris. Immediately after feeding, they are treated with a cotton swab or soft cloth. Particular attention should be paid to the beak - it should not have dried food, which makes feeding difficult.
Feed the chicks should be until full, every 2.5-3 hours, 6-7 times a day from 6-7 to 23-24 hours. Their crops should be well filled, but overfeeding should be avoided. After feeding, the chicks are placed in a box where they are until the time comes to learn to fly (then they are transferred to a cage). nine0003
If the chicks take food well and show a healthy appetite, after a few days you can start giving them additional food - a little pureed greens, apples or carrots are mixed into the porridge. Over time, they are given an increasingly steep porridge, 2-3 times a week adding mineral feed to it (0.5 tablets of calcium glycerophosphate, medical activated carbon per chick), after grinding them into powder. As vitamin supplements, freshly prepared juices (apple, carrot) are given along with water, and a small amount of natural bee honey is added to the porridge. Once or twice a week, fish oil is added to the porridge (1 drop per 1 teaspoon) or finely chopped multivitamin preparations thoroughly mixed with porridge (0.
