Feeding baby newts
Newts as Pets - an Introduction to their Care and Feeding
Posted by: Frank Indiviglio in Amphibians, Breeding, feeding and diet, Field studies and notes, General Reptile & Amphibian Articles, habitats, Newts, Reptile and Amphibian Health, Salamanders February 21, 2012 97 Comments 79515 Views
Although my interests are wide, newts and salamanders have always held a special fascination for me. Beginning in childhood, I sought to keep and breed as many species as possible, and I focused on their husbandry and conservation when I entered the zoo field. In time, I wrote a book summarizing my experiences (please see below). The passage of so many years has not dulled my enthusiasm for these fascinating amphibians, and I can highly recommend them to both beginning and advanced herp keepers.
The following information may be applied to the care of Japanese Fire-Bellied, Eastern, California, Ribbed and Paddle-Tailed Newts, as well as most others that appear in the pet trade. Please write in for detailed information on individual species.
Newts as Pets
An ability to thrive on commercial pellets distinguishes newts from other amphibians, and endears them to folks who prefer not to handle live insects. All are brilliantly-colored, active by day, and usually live well in groups at average room temperatures. Most become quite tame over time, and will even accept food from your hand. Several California Newts in my collection have lived to age 20, and others seem bent on exceeding that.
Natural History
The term “newt” is usually applied to small, semi-aquatic salamanders in the family Salamandridae. This family contains 80+ species that range throughout North America, Asia and Europe. During the breeding season, males usually develop bright colors, and some, such as the Banded and Crested Newts, sprout fantastic skin crests. The Ribbed Newt may reach a foot in length, but others average 4-6 inches.
Newt larvae develop in water. Upon maturity, they pass through a land dwelling phase (see photo of Eastern Newt above) and then re-enter the water, where they remain for the balance of their lives. However, certain populations depart from the typical lifestyle; Eastern Newts on Long Island, NY, for example, skip the land stage.
Newts offered in the pet trade are usually in their adult, semi-aquatic stage.
Behavior
Amphibians are not known for being especially active, but newts are always nosing about for food, exploring, and interacting with tank-mates. They see well and may swim to the aquarium’s side when you enter the room, in anticipation of a meal.
Handle newts only when necessary, and with wet hands so that the skin’s protective mucus covering is not removed.
Housing
Setting up the Habitat
Newts are well-adapted to life in the water, but do need a place to haul out and rest. The water in their aquarium can be deep, provided that egress is simple…cork bark, turtle platforms, and floating live or plastic plants all serve well as resting spots.
Newts are perfectly suited to aquariums stocked with live plants, and spectacular displays can be easily arranged (please see video below). Plants help maintain water quality, and the complex environments they create make life more interesting for both newt and newt-owner.
As newts readily climb glass, a secure screen cover is a must.
Substrate
Smooth, rounded gravel of a size that cannot be swallowed is ideal; rough stones will injure the delicate skin. Bare-bottomed tanks are easily kept clean.
Water Quality
Newts have porous skins that allow for the absorption of harmful chemicals. Careful attention to water quality is essential.
An aquarium pH test kit should always be on hand. Most newts fare well at a pH of 6.5 to 7.5, with 7.0 being ideal.
Ammonia, excreted as a waste product and produced via organic decomposition, is colorless, odorless and extremely lethal to newts; a test kit should be used to monitor its levels.
Chlorine and chloramine must be removed from water used for any amphibian. Liquid preparations are available at pet stores.
Copper may be leached by old water pipes; a test kit should be used if you suspect its presence.
Filtration
Undergravel, sponge, corner, hanging and submersible filters can all be used in newt aquariums. Even with filtration, regular partial water changes are essential in keeping ammonia levels in check.
As newts are not strong swimmers, water outflow from the filter should be mild; plants, rocks and movable outflow attachments can be used to reduce current strength.
Light and Heat
Newts seem not to require UVB light. UVA light is not essential, but may encourage natural behaviors.
Most newts thrive at normal household temperatures, but fare best when kept cool (60-68 F). Temperatures above 75 F may weaken the immune systems of some. Please write in for information on individual species. A winter cooling period of 40-50 F encourages reproduction.
Companions
Although often sold as “additions” to tropical fish aquariums, newts do poorly in warm water and feed too slowly to compete with most fishes. Guppies adjust well to cool water, and their fry will be eagerly consumed by newts; limit the number of adults so as to avoid competition for food. Weather Loaches and Corydoras Catfishes will co-exist, and usually do not interfere with feeding.
Feeding
I rely upon Reptomin Food Sticks as a mainstay for the newts in my collection, and for those under my care in zoos. Freeze-dried shrimp (included in Reptomin Select-a-Food) “gelled insects”, canned snails and frozen fish foods (i.e. mosquito larvae) should be offered regularly.
Live food, while not essential, is relished and will help ensure a balanced diet. Blackworms, bloodworms, earthworms, guppies, and small crickets will be eagerly accepted. Stocking the aquarium with live blackworms will keep your pets active and occupied.
Newt larvae and terrestrial sub-adults will usually accept only live food. Please write in for further information.
Health Considerations
Newt skin glands produce toxins such as Tarichatoxin, which can be fatal if ingested (so don’t eat your pet!). Do not handle newts when you have an open cut, and always wash well afterwards. Toxins transferred to the eyes via fingers have caused temporary blindness.
Further Reading
Please check out Newts and Salamanders, a book I’ve written on care and conservation.
Video: constructing an attractive, planted aqua-terrarium for newts
Video: male Banded Newts in breeding condition
Conserving the Great Crested Newt
Newt Toxins: personal observations
Eastern Newt image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Patrick Coin
Alpine Newt image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Richard Bartz
Emperor Newts feeding image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Ryan Somma
amphibians as petscaring for newtsfeeding newtskeeping newtsnewt dietnewt habitatnewt natural historynewts as pets 2012-02-21
How do I get a baby newt to eat
lotty
New member
- #1
I have a baby newt, it is terrestrial and a Japanese Firebelly newt.
It is my favourite one with an orange stripe down its back.
How do I get it to eat. I have tried pinhead crickets, chopped up earthworms, wax worms, bloodworms, whiteworms, baby woodlice and it still refuses to eat. It turns its head away from food. It is out and about and active at times and even climbs the glass of the tank a couple of inches and just sits there. It will go for a swim and sit on the plant leaves. It is looking very thin now. I am getting worried about it as it does not want to eat. Is there any way I can get it to get started in eating again. Thanks in advance. When it comes out again from hiding, I will take a pic of it.
lotty
New member
- #2
Here is the little one
lotty
New member
- #3
I have just been across the road to the fishing tackle shop and bought some squats. I asked what is the smallest maggots they sell. He showed me and I have put the newt in a tub with some tiny maggots and hopefully, it will start to eat. At the moment, it just walks past them.
lotty
New member
- #4
These two were the same size when I received them.
Bellabelloo
Julia
- #5
I would make up a small tub with a small layer of soil and add moss or something like slate or broken plant pot for somewhere to hide. ..or you could have damp kitchen towel and a place for it to hide under. Dampen it so it is just moist and add lots of small food such as whiteworm and small woodlice. Add the small newt and leave alone somewhere quiet for a few days.. this is easier to do with a soil based tub as paper towel will need changing every few days. Small chopped worms can be placed on a section of damp kitchen towel as well. Small newts and juveniles can get very stressed when disturbed too much. Hopefully after a few days when you in on the little newt, you will find it with a little fat tummy.
lotty
New member
- #6
Thanks for the help. I have made up a tub and have put chopped earthworm, whiteworm and some maggots in there. The crickets are a bit big for it now but I have found some cricket larvae and put them in. Moss soil and a hide and placed it in a spot where it won't get disturbed.
lotty
New member
- #7
The larger one ate 3 maggots and spat one back out. I think his eyes are bigger than his belly. lol. The tub has a mesh lid on it so nothing escapes. This isnt in the pic though.
Chinadog
Super Moderator
- #8
That looks fine. The thinking behind keeping small juveniles in relatively small, simple enclosures is that they don't have to hunt very far before they find food. Julia's suggestion of very small earthworms chopped up and offered on a piece of damp kitchen roll is my favourite. Tiny earthworms can take some finding, but it I dig long enough I can usually get by.
It's fine to offer maggots as food, but when feeding them to such small animals I always prick them with a pin to aid digestion first. I started doing this because before, their thick skin meant would come out the other end still in one piece.
lotty
New member
- #9
Chinadog said:
That looks fine. The thinking behind keeping small juveniles in relatively small, simple enclosures is that they don't have to hunt very far before they find food. Julia's suggestion of very small earthworms chopped up and offered on a piece of damp kitchen roll is my favourite. Tiny earthworms can take some finding, but it I dig long enough I can usually get by.
It's fine to offer maggots as food, but when feeding them to such small animals I always prick them with a pin to aid digestion first. I started doing this because before, their thick skin meant would come out the other end still in one piece.Click to expand...
Thanks. I read this somewhere about pricking them. I got a needle and pricked them in the sides. Hopefully, they will be eaten. I just hope I dont have the only vegetarian newt. lol. I find earthworms in my garden. I have a carpet on the soil and lift it and there are worms, woodlice and other bugs under there. Easy pickings for me.
lotty
New member
- #10
Update.
The newt has been in the tub for a week and it still has not eaten. I tried again yesterday to offer food, but it refuses to eat still. The tiny crickets are hiding but not going down in numbers. I dont know whether to put it in a bare bottom tub. If I put a damp kitchen towel in a tub, the maggots and crickets crawl under neath it. With soil the maggots and worms burrow to the bottom. But when I put anything in, the newt looks at it and then just walks over it.
I hope i have done right by putting the other newt that eats in with it so it can either help eat the crickets before they get too big for them to eat and also 'teach' the non eater to eat.
Although they were active in the larger tank on the floating dock and going for a swim and climbing the glass now and again, the newts just hide in the tub. Either under the moss or a leaf. The hide together.
Blackbun
Member
- #11
I always have the larger, flightless fruit flies in enclosures with youngsters. I have a jam jar lid with a teaspoon of over ripe banana to keep the flies in one place. For me, I'd load the tub with fruit flies and tiny crickets and to get those in one place I feed them with some crunched up fish flake food. Then I'd leave in a quiet place and not disturb. Remember to mist.
The majority of youngsters are greedy feeders, but sometimes you get one or two which initially do grow well and then stop and slowly fade away. That sounds grim, but it happens. It happened when I used to breed rabbits and when I used to rear ducks too.
lotty
New member
- #12
I spray every day to keep the humidity in there. I have placed them in a bare bottom tub to see if there is any change soon. I will have to see on ebay if there are any fruit flies. There are none local. Not many people local have newts / sals. I have only found one place that sells sals, but not newts. They mostly deal with reptiles. A lot of places wont stock live feed. Pinhead crickets have to be ordered and can take a week for them to arrive at the shop. I have a whiteworm culture. Whilt the newt is not eating, the worms are getting bigger so will eventually start to breed and there should be ample to help it start eating.
Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated.
Blackbun
Member
- #13
I've never trusted crickets after I saw one grabbing a waxworm and making off with it which is one of the reasons I always feed crickets in the salamander enclosure and never feed larger than instar 3 even to my biggest salamanders. I always feel even small crickets could, potentially, disturbed and irritate my youngsters. Fruit flies I love! You're a very committed and concerned keeper that's obvious but sometimes I think you have to ease off a bit.
lotty
New member
- #14
I do care about them. I will leave it to its own. I think it will get that hungry it will have no option but to start eating, or it is just one of them ones that gives up. I have seen this with baby birds. I bred canaries and the mother abandoned the nest. Out of 5 babies, I managed to save one as they started to die one after the other and was refusing to eat. I learned a lot about birds and life then. So upsetting to see babies die after trying your best with them.
Oliver, the canary that lived, grew up to be a great bird, but smaller than any others his own age.
jewett
Site Contributor
- #15
Hi Ian,
If you are going to order fruit flies, I also strongly recommend ordering a springtail culture, too. These are a great food source when used in addition to crickets and fruit flies and somewhere on this web site (though I can't find the source right now), some field research shows that juvenile Cynops' diet consists of 90% springtails.
Best of luck! I'm rooting for the little guy!
HJ
lotty
New member
- #16
Thanks. I did buy some springtails but there were not many in the tub. I think it was supposed to be a culture starter kit. What few there was, I put in with the newt but they just seemed to be walking around still. I will have to see if I can get a better lot off a different seller.
Newts at home: maintenance, feeding, care, reproduction
What animals are kept in houses and apartments? Yes, any! If only they were the right size. It is clear that it will be problematic to keep a crocodile or an alligator even in the bathroom. But smaller amphibians - newts - are quite possible. They, like praying mantises (do you already know how to keep them at home?), Will decorate your home, and you will not be bored with them.
In our today's message about newts, we will tell you (and show their different types in the photo) how to keep such interesting animals at home (in an apartment). We will answer many questions that arise before people want to put these amphibians in their homes:
- types of newts which can be kept at home;
- is it possible to keep a newt with aquarium fish and other living creatures;
- how long house newts grow;
- how to prepare newt aquarium ;
- how to feed the newt at home;
- useful tips for breeding newts.
Everywhere on the planet Earth, where there are only warm reservoirs, newts live. Of course, water newts, the biological relatives of salamanders, are protected by law, but common species can be bred at home. Caring for them is not difficult and they live at home with proper care for about 30 years.
There are a huge number of species of these amphibians, but not all representatives of the family can be kept in aquaterrariums. One of them, small (9 - 10 cm) - common newt.
Which types of newts can be kept at home
The crested newt is the largest newt commonly kept at home. It can grow to be about 18 cm long. Its main features are brown-black color, small orange dots on its belly and original crest. The skin of this amphibian is covered with glands capable of producing a dangerous substance that helps it defend itself against possible enemies. So such a pet is far from safe for the rest of the inhabitants of the aquarium.
Another member of the family, quite capable of causing harm not only to its neighbors in the aquaterrarium, but also to its owner, is ribbed newt . Along its body are long orange-colored tubercles - ribs. They protect the amphibian in case of danger. If you suddenly grab it with your hands, the ribs protrude sharply and a careless person can get hurt.
The most beautiful member of the family is alpine newt . It has a bright, unusual color: orange, bright blue, sky blue stripes and gray dots make it a kind of "peacock" among the newts.
Who to put in an aquarium with a newt
Putting a newt in the same aquarium with fish and snails is not a good idea. The main reason is that this amphibian needs to go on land from time to time, and they also like to feast on fresh fish, and they may well eat their neighbors. Yes, and newts prefer cool water, about 20 degrees, and fish like it to be warmer - about 25 degrees.
But if you choose the right inhabitants of the aquarium, it is quite possible to create a kind of "hostel" in it, in which both fish and amphibians will coexist well. Guppies, neons or cardinals may well live with newts, but you should prepare for the fact that amphibians will start attacking fish. Ideal neighbors for newts are goldfish. They are quite large, so it will be almost impossible to swallow them. And the fish themselves will not attack the amphibian. Newts will probably eat small snails, but large ones will be able to survive, even though they will be constantly attacked.
Where to keep a newt in the house: remodeling the aquarium
Best of all to settle the newt in the aquarium , but experienced aquarists often remake existing aquariums into a newt house. It's pretty simple. Everyone knows that newts really need a kind of "islands" of land. You can create them by laying branches, pebbles, boards on the bottom of the aquarium. You need to lay them out so that land areas are formed on which the amphibian can crawl out to breathe.
One newt needs about 15 liters of water for normal life, and if you consider that the newt also wants a dry "shore" for rest, then you need to buy an aquarium with a minimum volume of 30 liters. It is also necessary to take into account the fact that after the appearance of one “resident”, one often wants to add a company to him, so it is better to immediately purchase an aquarium of a larger volume than is needed at the moment. The top cover is an indispensable element of a newt aquaterrarium. These amphibians love to run away, so if you don't want to see your exotic pet dead on the floor for one day, it's better not to neglect the lid.
The bottom of the aquaterrarium should be covered with coarse soil, since newts can swallow fine soil, pebbles should be rounded, with smooth edges. Live algae in an aquarium are important not only for beauty, because many newts are used to hiding their eggs in the leaves of plants, but some aquarists decorate the home of newts with artificial algae.
Living plants require obligatory insolation. It is best to install a fluorescent lamp that will not overheat the water. It can be used in an aquaterrarium and an ultraviolet lamp. It not only gives light and creates the necessary ultraviolet radiation for 12 hours, but also does not overheat the water.
The maximum water temperature tolerated by newts is 22°C. If the temperature rises higher, it can seriously harm the amphibian. In extreme heat, experts advise additionally cooling the water, for example, you can lower a container with ice into the aquaterrarium.
The picture below shows the species of newts (male and female). Some of them can be kept at home. Read on to find out if you can keep multiple newts in the same aquarium.
It is worth installing a filter in the aquaterrarium, and in addition, about 20% of the water is changed weekly. These precautions will help to avoid diseases of newts, which can be caused by the breakdown of waste products and food debris from amphibians.
Several newts in one aquarium. Can?
Tritons can be placed in an aquaterrarium both individually and in groups. To avoid bloody fights and ensure peaceful cohabitation of amphibians, it is recommended to follow an important rule: for one male, you need to buy 2-3 "ladies". If this balance is disturbed, violent conflicts for females will begin between males, because these seemingly peaceful animals can turn out to be extremely warlike.
Newts shed their old skin from time to time. This happens, as a rule, after the end of the marriage period. The newt begins to shed its old “clothes” from the head. He rubs it against wood and pebbles, the skin bursts and the amphibian gradually “creeps out” of the old “suit”, remaining only in an almost transparent skin. The newt always tries to swallow the old skin, but it does not work out right away. A person is unlikely to be able to observe this interesting process, because newts are nocturnal animals, and molting often comes precisely at night.
What do domestic newts eat? Tadpoles, small fish, invertebrates, larvae are the favorite food of these animals.
In special stores, you can buy bloodworms, tubifex or insect larvae for your pet. If you are going to feed a tubifex or bloodworm to a newt, you should first soak them well in water, which must be changed often. With pleasure, newts eat slugs, worms, tadpoles and shrimps.If live food is not available, newts will get by with thawed fish, squid, raw meat, offal, chicken or liver. Any of these delicacies should be cut into small pieces so that it is easy for the newt to swallow them.
Young amphibians want to eat once a day, and older ones - once every two days. Every month, newts need 3-4 days to do without food at all.
If fish live next to newts, then they need to be fed separately so that they do not interfere with each other to eat. You can also slip a portion of the amphibian with tweezers. Sometimes the food will need to be vigorously shaken in front of the newt's snout, as some individuals only react to live food.
Breeding newts at home: when and how they breed
Mature newts are considered 3 years after birth. They usually start mating in late autumn and continue until early spring. In order for amphibians to successfully breed, the water temperature must drop to 18 degrees, or even lower. The female finds the male's deposited spermatophore and sucks it into herself. After two or three days, the female lays eggs in small groups and wraps them in leaves. After that, adults need to be moved to another aquaterrarium, otherwise they will eat all the eggs. After 18 days, larvae will appear, and after 10 months they will turn into full-fledged little newts.
Features of keeping newts - Freya
Tritons are representatives of the genus of tailed amphibians, moisture-loving relatives of salamanders. Most often purchased as a pet common newt. This species is considered the most common, in summer it can be found in almost every body of water where there is something to chew on. They like sit down in the roots of water lilies and other plants, hanging phlegmatically in the water column. However, their slowness is only apparent: having noticed any movement nearby, they instantly “die off” and rush towards the irritant with lightning speed. Hunt them carried out according to the same principle as in whales - directly near victims, they sharply open their mouths, and the prey is literally sucked there by a strong stream water. Because of this feature, many aquarists are hesitant to start newts, because they rush at everything that moves, even at each other (however, they cannot harm adult brothers). There is an opinion that newts you can hook up with big fish, but skinned tails are unlikely to add last optimism. If this you are not embarrassed, and you are ready to provide the newts with an aquarium free from other fauna, except perhaps snails - let me tell you about the main points, that a novice breeder needs to know. So, how looks like an ordinary newt, what are its external distinguishing features, image life ? In appearance newt looks like a wet lizard with a wide head and comb-like tail, on paws have small membranes, reminiscent of frogs. adult reaches a length of 10-12 cm, and somewhere half falls on the tail. Coloring this newt is rather modest: the upper part of the body is brown, and the lower part is lighter, close to yellow. All over the body, characteristic dark spots can be seen, which are few except on the belly. Male newts are larger and brighter females. During the mating season, males grow a dorsal crest that looks like like blue-orange teeth. This crest extends from head to tail tip. Females also add in color, but they do not have a crest. When spawning time comes, the female lays up to 500 eggs, attaching them to algae. Moreover, each caviar on a separate leaflet, bending its edge in such a way so that you get a kind of hook. The larvae hatch in 3-4 weeks. While still tiny, young newts feed only on cyclops and daphnia. When they grow up a little, you can safely add fresh bloodworms to their diet. Newts are considered adults only by 2-3 years. Their food, as already written higher, very diverse - small fish, worms, smaller newts, caterpillars, in fact, Anything that goes down the throat is eaten. You can buy them and granular food, but not all newts will be imbued with motionless food. Follow clarify that in order for the newts to open the mating season, they need pre-hibernate for 5-6 months, as they do in nature. IN conditions of aquarium maintenance, not every aquarist will risk try yourself as a weather controller. And if you lower the temperature in autumn water can be simply by placing an aquarium with newts on the balcony, then put the sunken ones not everyone will decide to put creatures into suspended animation in the refrigerator, wrapped in a cloth. The ambient temperature should not be lower than 4-5 degrees. If you leave them winter on the balcony, the water will simply freeze. So appreciate it all risks before sending these amphibians to winter. Although the mating season subsequent spawning and growth of cubs will certainly bring you many interesting hours of observation. What are the rules keeping newts in captivity? 1. Triton aquarium should be purchased horizontal type, with a capacity of 60-70 liters. On , a pair of tritons of this volume is more than enough. As for the water level, the most desirable depth is 20-30 cm. The presence of land is not important, but a grotto, snag or the stone will bring these pets a lot of pleasant minutes. 2. Remember that the newt is a cold-blooded animal, highly dependent on ambient temperature. The ideal temperature for common newt 18-23 degrees, as in reservoirs of temperate latitudes in summer period of the year. Thus, at room temperature, newts feel quite comfortable. 3. Cleanliness is another feature newts. Unlike many other inhabitants of home aquaria, they are almost don't muddy the water. But that doesn't mean they don't need a filter. Even the neatest animal one way or another, it pollutes the water. In no case, when changing the water, do not run newts immediately, let it settle for at least a day. Also undesirable using filtered or boiled water. As for aeration, it is optional, since newts do not breathe oxygen dissolved in water, but float up and capture air from its surface. 4. feed the newts? For this, you can use both live food and seafood, bird giblets, liver. If you are not using live food, it is best to feed with tweezers, moving it and thereby simulating the movements of prey. As a living it is customary to buy food for bloodworms, guppies; perfect for summer season earthworms, Maybug larvae, cockroaches, crickets. Similar "live" diet much more nutritious and the benefits are tangible. 5. Now let's talk about what not to feed. Tritons are contraindicated: fat, meat with streaks fat, fatty food, skin, dry food intended for fish. Should be fed as much as newts can eat. It is impossible to overfeed them, they have there is a clear feeling of fullness. If after feeding were left uneaten food leftovers, remove them, because. newts will not get hungry soon. 6. regularly feed the newts? It depends on the age of the animals. If speech is about young newts up to two years old, then feeding should be daily (1 time per day before saturation). Adults need to be fed twice a week. In both In some cases, we give as much food as the newts eat. 7. What about vitamins, is special feeding required? Of course it would be nice use vitamin and mineral supplements that dissolve in water (there are in the form of liquids or powders). Add strictly in those quantities that indicated on the packaging, depending on the volume of water. 8. Primer desirable buy a large one so that the newt does not accidentally swallow it. The sad ones are known cases when animals swallowed pebbles and died from obstruction intestines. The presence of any shelter is welcome. Tritons love to crawl in grottoes, hiding in algae. But if you are buying decor, be sure to make sure that there are no sharp spots on it that the newt could get hurt on. Also, when purchasing a shelter, be prepared for the fact that the pet will not be with you. constantly in sight. 9. Tritons good breed in captivity, give numerous offspring. Their fertilization internal, so it is recommended to plant a female with an enlarged belly in a separate aquarium with plenty of vegetation so that she has where to go attach eggs. The larvae that appeared after 3-4 weeks bear little resemblance to your parents. They will become more less similar to adults only after 3 months. For a year of such clutches can be up to 4. And given that the natural enemies of the young in there is no aquarium, the number of newts has to be regulated in other ways. For example, do not arrange wintering for them or do not plant a pregnant female (in In this case, it is likely that the parents will simply eat their offspring). 10. Interesting: Although newts and belong to pets, but pick them up without a sharp necessary is not recommended. Our body temperature is much higher than newts, and if you hold them in your hands for a long time (more than 1 minute), they can strongly overheat to the point of burning. Newts great regeneration. |