Hand feeding baby parrots
Psittacine Pediatrics: Housing and Feeding of Baby Parrots
Introduction
Hand-feeding baby birds is an vital part of any successful aviculture operation. Psittacine eggs that are artificially incubated or babies pulled from their parents at a young age, must be hand-fed for three to five months. Hand-fed birds make tamer companions and increase production if the parents re-clutch. Breeding pairs may neglect all or the youngest of their babies or they can cannibalise them. With these pairs there is no choice but to pull the babies and hand-fed.
Most exotic birds kept in captivity, such as psittacines and the many types of “soft bills” are altricial that is their young are hatched blind, helpless in food gathering and are unable to thermoregulate. Since poultry are precocial, little information on their relatively easy care is directly useful for parrots. Aviculturists have by trial and error methods, developed procedures to successfully raise hatchlings right from hatching.
Hygiene and Baby Movement
Nursery management must have as the main goal disease prevention. With chicks lacking fully developed immune systems, normal gut flora just becoming established, and parent pairs previously exposed to many different organisms, stress due to poor feeding or inadequate environment can quickly lead to disease. The nursery usually has a concentration of such susceptible individuals so there is greater chance of an epornitic occurring here, crippling the cash flow of an operation.
The flow of babies within a nursery can reduce the chances of cross-contamination. There should be no mixing of parent raised babies, even if the parents appear perfectly healthy and have been with the breeder for many years. Subclinical carriers of Psittacine beak and feather disease, polyomavirus and other diseases may transmit these vertically (via the egg) but with greater probably horizontally (directly) to babies in the nest. If these babies are pulled and not properly handled within the nursery, significant mortality could result.
Increasing the number of hatchlings from artificially incubated eggs can minimize the chance of parent birds infecting their offspring.
If parent fed chicks are to be hand-fed they should be pulled from the nest box before three weeks of age or the time of emergence of pin feathers on the wings. Older chicks will be stressed for the first few days in the strange nursery and may not want to be fed. However once they are hungry enough, usually about 12 hours later, they will accept hand-feeding.
Chicks to be hand-fed should be pulled from the nest box before three weeks of age or the emergence of pin feathers on the wings.Hands must be cleansed before and also between feeding and handling different babies and clutches. Disposable latex gloves can be changed between each group of babies or allow hands to be wiped with a disinfectant without irritating skin. Babies should not be removed from their containers unless necessary and a clean paper towel placed under each baby when weighing.
Food Preparation
A fresh batch of formula should be mixed up for each feeding. This is more hygienic and convenient since food does not need to be stored. To properly prepare the diet for feeding, a balance for weighing formula and accurate volumetric container for water should be used. Use accurate measuring devices, clean utensils and stir the food well.
Cooking time will vary slightly with model of microwave oven and type of container. Plastic containers seem to cool the food slower than ones made of glass. The final temperature of the food, just before feeding, should be slightly warmer than human body temperature or about 40°C (100°F). Be careful not to overheat the food as burning the babies can occur if the food contains hot spots or is only a few degrees too hot.
Table 1-
Water/Dry Mash Ratio of hand-feeding Formula
| Age of baby | Amount of dry mash | Volume of Water | |
| Hatching to 2 days | 1 tbs = 9 g (15 cc) volume rario 1:5 weight ratio 1:7 (12.  5% Solids) | 72 ml | |
| 3 days to weaning | 1/2 cup = 64 g (120 cc) volume ratio 1:2 weight ratio 1:4 (20% Solids) | 240 ml |
Formulas for young babies, up to day two to four, should be significantly more diluted, about 5 to 10 percent solids. These young babies may also develop better on less rich diets having lower fat and protein and more easily digested carbohydrates (another area requiring research). Older babies should receive formula with a solid content in the 20 to 30 per cent range which usually results in a consistency a little thinner than apple sauce. Do not assume that such a texture represents the correct nutrient density as thickeners can make a formula with low dry matter levels appear much denser. Formula can be maintained at the correct feeding temperature by setting it in a bowl of hot water.
Formula food preparation for hand feedingMethods of Feeding
There are several possible techniques of feeding young parrots.
Psittacine chicks produce a feeding response when the commissures of the beak are touched. This bobbing action closes the glottis and food passes into the crop. A bent teaspoon can be used to feed the formula but this can be a messy and time consuming way of feeding. Spoon feeding may produce a tamer bird because of the increased handling and is the preferred method of feeding of some of the most experienced aviculturists in the world (Low, 1987). However, there may be a greater chance of disease transmission with spoon feeding as the spoon is repeatedly touching the baby’s mouth and then dipped into the formula thus contaminating the food for the other babies.
Small plastic pipettes are used by some breeders to feed younger babies. Since these pipettes can only hold a few ml of food they require many repeated dippings into the food container with the same potential for disease spread as with spoons.
Catheter tipped syringes of various sizes are becoming popular instruments in feeding baby birds.
Syringes can be used to slowly dribble the food into the mouth of the bird. Syringes allow the measuring of the amount of food fed and are easier to use. Silicone rubber and “O” ring syringes last longer than black rubber ones. Better still are syringes with no rubber gaskets and simply a concave round end. Soaking in tamed iodine disinfectant between feedings.
Syringes are usually used to shoot the food into the crop of the bird. Hold the baby’s head loosely by placing a finger on both sides of the beak and the back of the head. Place the tip of the feeding syringe into the left side of the birds mouth and once the bird gives a feeding response (head pumping) shoot the food towards the back of the head. This procedure is relatively safe but requires some practice before it is done without a mess. The advantage of syringes is that a separate one can be used for each clutch of babies so that if one pair produces diseased offspring it doesn’t spread to the other babies.
A short soft rubber tube can be attached to the tip of the syringe which can then be placed further back into the mouth to prevent food going down the trachea. However this may have a behavioral effect on the baby and may prolong the weaning process since this is the least natural of all the feeding methods.
Fill the crop well without over stretching it and allow it to completely empty between feedings. Do not confuse the small pouch of loose skin around an empty crop as a crop that still contains food. Babies have looser skin around the crop to allow it to stretch out. Sick babies are more likely to aspirate themselves and the crop becomes flaccid. These babies should be placed in small containers, like disposable plastic cups, which hold them up prevent them from falling on their crop. Feeding frequency or gut transit time is dependent on the percent solids of the formula, its digestibility and caloric density. Babies less than 3 days old get fed six times a day and older ones 4 times a day.
Metal feeding tubes are only necessary when force feeding sick birds.
Whatever implements are used they should be disinfected between feedings and replaced periodically. Some aviculturists boil syringes in large pressure cookers or in regular pots but more commonly cold disinfectant baths are used to soak feeding equipment. Gluteraldehyde based products appear the strongest disinfectants however quartenary ammonium compounds or iodophors are acceptable under normal conditions. Phenol based disinfectants are very irritating to skin and chlorhexidines do not effectively kill pseudomonas bacteria which are common in wet environments and water. At HARI we lost several two month old cockatoos to pseudomonas when we used chlorhexidine to disinfect syringes. The bacteria were cultured directly from the syringes and upon close examination colonies could be seen in the corners of the syringe shafts.
HOUSING BABIES
Brooders and Containers
There are as many different and successful baby brooders as there are hand-feeding formulas.
Some are homemade wooden boxes with electric elements or lights to keep the babies warm. Others are adapted metal game chick brooders or glass aquariums with custom made heaters to partially cover the top or bottom of the tank. Brooders set up with heating pads often result in cooked babies, thermal injuries or cold babies since precise, constant temperature maintenance is difficult (Stoddard, 1988). Another problem with homemade or adapted brooders is their usual lack of humidity control. Human baby incubators and specific commercial baby bird brooders have more accurate temperature and humidity control but are difficult to obtain or can become expensive when many babies have to be housed.
Brooders should be relatively small as an important part of disease prevention with babies is to keep clutches separate and this is limited with large brooders. They should provide constant, even heat that can be finely adjusted, be well ventilated, easily cleaned and have a water receptacle to add humidity.
One set-up which meets many of these requirements uses small aquariums to contain babies which is then placed a much larger aquarium or plastic pan filled with about three or four inches of heated water. The water is maintained at 40°C (100°F) with a submersible thermostat aquarium heater. Salt should be added to the water to keep down the growth of pseudomonas and other pathogenic bacteria. Evaporated water must be replaced so that the horizontally laid heater remains submerged.
Bedding
Young babies, less than two weeks of age, can be kept on paper towels in plastic cups, re-used yogurt containers or small aquariums. Babies should be sitting on clean and dry bedding which is therefore changed at each feeding. This may not provide firm enough footing for some birds which should be transferred onto paper or wood shavings or towels to avoid splayed legs. When babies are two-three weeks old, we transfer the babies to a small plastic containers that contain a few layers of newspaper under a few inches of wood shavings.
Corn cob, walnut shell and pellet type bedding are not popular or losing favour with aviculturists because of various drawbacks.
Some babies may have a tendency to eat shavings, perhaps as a result of other complications such as calorie deficient diets or excess heat. Using towels has the advantage of being able to clearly see the baby’s droppings but the feet and feathers can get caked up with feces and time and energy must be spent on washing towels. Disposable diapers are expensive and wasteful. Babies stay cleaner when they are kept on processed paper product or shavings.
Temperature
The ambient temperature and humidity of baby altricial birds must be regulated. Young, up until they are feathered out, need supplemental heat above room temperature to thrive and even survive. Chilled babies, either because of neglectful parent birds or power failure to the brooder heater, will deteriorate quickly. These chicks may die later even after being warmed up. Nursery room temperature should be kept warm between 78 and 82 degrees fahrenheit.
The brooder temperature for recently hatched chicks can remain at the hatching temperature of 35.0°-36.5°C (96°-98°F) for the first few days. Once the baby is eating more solid food, at about 2-3 days of age, it should be kept at a lower temperature of 33.5°-35.0°C (92°-96°F) depending on the species and its metabolism. From there up to about two weeks of age babies should be in an environmental temperature of 32.0°-33.5°C (90°-92°F) (Table 2). If temperatures are to high the chick may exhibit panting, unrest, hyperactivity and have dry, reddened skin (Clubb and Clubb, 1986). Cold temperatures may result in death, poor gut motility, crop stasis or other digestive disorders, failure to feed or beg, inactivity or shivering (Clubb and Clubb, 1986).
Table 2-
Approximate Brooder Temperature
| Age | Temperature °C | Temperature °F |
| Hatch to Day 2-3 | 35. 0-36.5 | 96-98 |
| Day 3 to Day 14-21 | 31.1-34.0 | 88-94 |
| 3 weeks to Weaning | 25.0-30.0 | 76-86 |
Humidity
Natural nesting cavities in wooden tree trunks probably have a high relative humidity. Moist droppings from any babies within them will add to this, resulting in an environment of high humidity. These are unfortunately not the humidity levels found in most nursery brooders (Clipsham, 1989b). Most babies are traditionally raised on dry heat with heating pads, light bulbs or electric coils.
A range of 55-70% humidity produces quieter, fatter babies with a greater growth rate than those kept at levels of 15-35% (Clipsham, 1989b). Ambient humidity for hatching eggs and hand fed chicks can be increased by increasing nursery room humidity and, more effectively, by using containers of water as a source of both heat and humidity. A small aquarium submerged in and surrounded by a water bath heated by a submersible aquarium heater is very effective for eggs and up to one week old babies.
Identifying the Chicks
Babies must be properly identified in order to follow the linage and pair unrelated birds in the future. If considerable numbers of birds are being raised it becomes difficult to maintain the identity of similar babies from different parents. Several companies make closed leg bands in many different sizes. These bands can only be slipped to the birds leg when their feet are a small size. The best time to apply the bands is at about 2 – 3 weeks of age. Place the three larger toes through the appropriate sized band and then slide the band over the small inside toe which is held back against the foot.
Microchips implants are now available but are not yet commonly used for identifying baby birds.
Record Keeping and Growth Rates
The goal of any exotic aviculture venture is to raise healthy babies with minimum losses. Thus achieving the fastest growth rates possible on a particular formula are not as critical as the proper development of the baby.
Average weight gains for the particular diet being used do help to monitor the development of individual babies. Weights taken each morning before the first feeding are less influenced by residual food still in the gut of the bird from the previous feeding as babies are usually allowed to empty over night. The time between feedings should slowly lengthen as the baby gets older but any sudden slow down in digestion is an indication of illness.
Stoddard (1988) monitors the health and development of young babies by the;
- Plumpness of the toes, wings and rump.
- Skin colour – should be a flesh-toned pink.
- Skin texture – should be translucent and soft.
- Anatomical symmetry – malnourished babies often have thin feet, toes, and wings as well as a disproportionately large head.
Flammmer (1986) lists other physical characteristics of nestling psittacines.
Complications
1 – Crop Stasis
The crop should completely empty between feedings.
Food that remains in the crop too long may “sour” and provide an excellent growth media for opportunist bacteria and fungi.
Hard lumps may form in the crops of some babies if the solid matter of the hand feeding formula separates from water. Treatment consists of feeding a little warm water and massaging the crop/lump until it is dissolved. The next feeding should consist of diluted formula following which the crop should be back to normal.
Your avian veterinarian should be consulted immediately should the crop content not empty as a crop wash can be performed by an experienced pediatric care technician or veterinarian to remove the soured content and the chick evaluated to determine what is the cause of the crop disorder and possible medical or therapeutic intervention.Under feeding may result in result in some babies ingesting bedding material. In a case of eclectus parrots ingesting wood-shavings they all died due to the gizzard damming up, preventing normal digestion (Smith, 1985).
2 – Crop Burn
If the temperature of the food is greater than 41°C (105°F) it may scald the crop and cause necrosis and fistulation (Giddings, 1986). Even with careful mixing and cooking some of the most experienced facilities may burn babies’ crops by feeding hot formula. Microwaves are usually used when overcooked food is fed. Hot areas within the food may go undetected even with a thermometer. It is best to let the formula stand for a minute, mix well and double check the temperature.
3 – Constricted Toes
Avascular digital necrosis or “big toe” is seen in baby macaws, eclectus and african greys. A ring of fibrous tissue may be initiated by rapid loss of body fluids from a crack of skin and encircles the toe leading to a constriction (Clipsham, 1989b).
Higher ambient humidity levels are reported to decrease this problem (Clipsham, 1989b; Joyner, 1987).
4 – Aspiration
On several occasions very young, less than 3 days old, weak babies were accidentally aspirated at HARI.
This may have been due to poor feeding responses and force feeding. It is also possible to drop a baby onto its full crop resulting in the food being forced out and into the buccal cavity. The baby, not expecting food at that time may aspirate it. Feeding older birds by a tube placed into the crop will decrease the likelihood of aspiration in the more difficult species to feed (Joyner, 1987), such as 2 month old cockatoos.
5 – Beak Deformities
At HARI a lateral beak deformity has occurred in a baby macaw and an ingrown upper beak in a cockatoo. These types of deformities have been observed with other aviculturists (Joyner, 1987; Clubb and Clubb, 1989). The etiology of these deviations is not known but may be related to unnatural feeding methods or poor nutrition. The rapid growth and strong feeding response of macaws may exacerbate any deviations in growth.
6 – Bacterial, Fungal and Viral Diseases
Gram negative bacteria such as E. coli, Klebsiella sp., and Pseudomonas sp., are commonly considered pathogens and are often associated with disease (Clubb and Clubb, 1986). The “normal” aerobic alimentary tract flora for baby psittacines may include Lactobacillus sp., Staphylococcus eipdermidis, Streptococcus sp., Corynebactrium sp. and Bacillus sp. (Drewes, 1983). Candidiasis, caused by Candida albicans, is a yeast infection, usually of the crop. It is often a secondary problem associated with slowing of gut transit time. Digestive function may be upset by bacterial infections or blockage of the crop opening with foreign matter such as bedding substrate. Food which remains in the crop too long may begin to ferment leading to a “sour crop”. Dietary causes of a slow down in the digestive tract include food too cold, food with inadequate moisture content or ability to hold water (gelatin quality), food too high in fat or protein or too low in fiber.
Babies will often vomit if one of these is not quite right.
Abnormally high Candida infections in Palm Cockatoos may have been due to the simple sugars in the sweetened applesauce and sugar ingredients of the diet used by the New York Zoological Society (Sheppard and Turner, 1987).
Viral diseases can be prevented by only handfeeding incubator hatched babies and leaving parentally hatched nestlings with their parents. A separate nursery for babies exposed to parental feedings could be another alternative.
Weaning
Weaning appears not to be a learned process and occurs at a certain age which is not affected by external stimulation of hunger (Roudybush, 1986). Cockatiel chicks which reach a higher maximum weight sooner also wean earlier than chicks which do not gain more than their normal adult weight (Roudybush, 1986). Babies may lose weight (up to 10-15%) during weaning although keeping weight on them is probably better for birds to be shipped out unweaned.
When the babies have about an inch of blood left in their wings they are transferred to a cage which has small openings on the bottom wire for the babies to walk on comfortably.
Perches should initially be near the bottom of the cage for the uncoordinated fledglings.
Once babies have absorbed the blood in their wing feathers they are ready to be placed into a cage. The cage should be large enough to allow the birds to exercise their wings. Perches are better placed near the bottom of the cage where young birds first spend most of their time. A cup of formulated parrot food, moistened with hot water, appears to be easier for babies to wean onto than seeds or hard vegetables. This cup must be made fresh daily (or more often in hot climates) to avoid spoilage and should be placed near where they perch.
To assist in weaning, feed a little amount of formula with a spoon from the cup that the birds should begin to eat from. Additional syringes of food should be given two or three times a day so they do not lose do much weight but avoid always feeding when babies beg or this behaviour may increase.
Potential for Breeding
There is concern that hand-rearing imprints the birds on humans and they will therefore not be suitable for breeding when they become sexually mature.
Third generation breeding of Amazona leucocephala by Ramon Noegel indicates that this is not the case. Hand-reared birds often mature and breed in a shorter period than it takes wild-caught adults to settle down. Captive raised birds lack the stress that causes wild birds not to breed or abandon their nests.
If the babies birds are to be kept for breeding it is probably better to raise them in groups rather than individually.
Research with cockatiels has shown that early rearing experience is important for males to learn characteristics of the opposite sex, and for males and females to learn characteristics of nest-sites (Myers et al., 1988).
Care of Baby Parrot
Environment
A newly arrived baby parrot should be kept in a warm and quiet place for the first few weeks. A young bird needs to rest during the day and a busy environment may exhaust it. This stress weakens the immune system which may result in disease(s).
Provide your bird with a cage big enough so it can fully expand its wings and perhaps jump between perches.
Parrots like to climb around their cage and like its security when they rest. Place several toys in its cage, to avoid boredom and change these regularly.
When outside of its cage, you can put your bird on a T perch but this should not be its only territory, since it cannot move around much.
Feeding
A sudden change of diet could lead to weight loss and digestive upset with subsequent problems, so, it is best to continue with the same diet.
If the baby bird is not weaned, follow the directions on the leaflet of the Tropican hand-feeding formula and provide three food bowls to the baby: one filled with dry Tropican granules, one with soft Tropican moisten with warm water, and a bowl of fresh water. Moist food spoils very fast; so be sure to clean the bowl twice a day. Always use the same bowls for your baby birds unless bowls used by another bird has been thoroughly disinfected.
Exercise
The bird should be allowed out of its cage to interact with people and to exercise each day.
Play with the baby every day but do not spoil it too much initially or it will demand this attention later. Do not leave doors or windows open or go outside with an unclipped bird. You can clip the wing feathers but when doing this for the first time, ask someone who is familiar with clipping.
Medical Care
Captive bred birds are not used to the microorganisms carried by a wild caught exotic bird and you should avoid the contact between the two. Species susceptible to Pacheco and Pox diseases should be vaccinated against them if they will be in places with other birds at proximity such as in a pet shop, veterinary clinic, boarding facility or bird shows.
If your bird shows one or several of the following symptoms, it may be sick: sleeping during its usual peak activity, not eating or eating less than usual, diarrhea and feathers puffed up. In that situation, contact immediately your usual avian veterinarian. Isolate the bird. Keep it warm (30°C – 86°F) and try to give it some food.
References
BUCHER, T.L. (1983). Parrot eggs, embryos, and nestling: patterns and energetics growth and development. Physiol. Zool. 56 465-483.
CACCAMISE, D.F. (1975). Growth rate in the Monk Parakeet. The Wilson Bulletin 88 495-497.
CLIPSHAM, R. (1989a). Pediatric management and medicine. Avian Veterinarians. 1:10-13.
CLIPSHAM, R. (1989b). Preventive Aviary Medical Management. Proceedings of the American Federation of Aviculture Veterinary Seminar, pp 15-28.
CLUBB, S. L., and CLUBB, K. J. (1986). Psittacine pediatrics. Proceedings of the Association of Avian Veterinarians pp 317-332.
CLUBB, S.L. and CLUBB, K.J. (1989). Selected problems in psittacine pediatrics. Proceedings of the American Federation of Aviculture Veterinary Seminar, pp 29-35.
DREWES, L., and FLAMMER, K. (1983). Preliminary data on aerobic microflora of baby psittacine birds. Proceedings of the Jean Delacour/ IFCB Symposium on Breeding Birds in Captivity, pp 73-81.
FLAMMER, K.
(1986). Pediatric medicine. In: Clinical Avian Medicine and Surgery: including aviculture. Eds. G. J. Harrison and L. R. Harrison, W. B. Saunders Company, Philadelphia, pp 634-650.
GIDDINGS, R. F. (1986). An avoidable cause of crop necrosis in nestling cockatiels. Veterinary Medicine 81:1025-1026.
JOYNER, K.L. (1987). Avicultural Pediatrics. American Federation of Aviculture Veterinary Seminar pp 22-33.
JOYNER, K.L. (1988). The use of a lactobacillus product in a psittacine hand-feeding diet; its effect on normal aerobic microflora early weight gain, and health. Proceedings Association of Avian Veterinarians pp 127-137.
LOW, R. (1987). Hand-Rearing Parrots. Blandford Press. Dorset, U.K.
MOSTERT, PETER (1989). Personal communication.
MYERS, S.A., MILLAM, J.R., ROUDYBUSH, T.E. and GRAU, C.R. (1988). Reproductive success of hand-reared vs. parent-reared cockatiels (Nymphicus Hollandicus). The Auk 105:536-542.
SHEPPARD, C. and TURNER, W. (1987). Handrearing Palm Cockatoos.
AAZPA Annual Proceedings pp. 270-278.
SILVA, T. (1989). A monograph of endangered parrots. Hand-rearing. Silvio Mattacchione and Co., Pickering, Ontario, pp 23-26.
SMITH, G. A. (1985). Problems encountered in hand-rearing parrots. In: Cage and Aviary Bird Medicine Seminar, Australian Veterinary Poultry Association. pp 71-77.
SMITH, R.E. (1986). Psittacine beak and feather disease: a cluster of cases in a cockatoo breeding facility. Proceedings Association of Avian Veterinarians pp 17-20.
STODDARD, H.L. (1988). Avian Pediatric Seminar. Avian Pediatric Seminar Proceedings (Supplement) pp 1-19.
TAKESHITA, D.L., GRAHAM, L. and SILVERMAN, S. (1986). Hypervitaminosis D in baby macaws. Proceedings Association of Avian Veterinarians pp 341-346.
THOMPSON, D.R. AND BARBER, L. (1983). Successful techniques for hand raising young psittacine birds. Proceedings of the Jean Delacour/ IFCB Symposium on Breeding Birds in Captivity, pp 171-178.
By Mark Hagen, M.
Ag.
Director of Research
Instructions For Hand-Feeding Baby Birds
More Bird Topics ▼
The idea of a new baby bird in the family is an exciting proposition that brings a new dimension to your life. However, if you decide to hand-feed your new pet, you will need some knowlege, a lot of patience, and a good diet for a growing bird.
Veterinarians and naturalists have developed techniques for hand raising nesting birds, and
there are now easy-to-use special baby bird formulas for feeding the ever-hungry little babies.
Higgins Intune Baby Bird Hand Feeding Formula and
Higgins Intune Hi Energy Baby Macaw Hand Feeding Formula
are super foods that meet the extraordinary nutritional needs of these unusually fast
growing babies. It is rice based (sourced from North America) and corn free. inTune® Natural Hand Feeding uses natural and healthy, high end sources for nutritional fat like coconut oil and macadamia nut meal.
It is also the only commercial hand feeding formula on the market with natural banana & mango aroma.
The need to cook the formula has also been eliminated. It
can now be prepared with hot water!
Most baby birds arrive in the world wet, naked, blind, and too weak to support themselves. When fallen from their nest, survival is questionable. Now, with help, they are able to grow and develop normally. Wild birds can be raised and returned to nature. Pet birds learn to accept people as friends. The real benefactors, though, are people. Nature returns many-fold for kindness performed.
Hand-Feeding
The most important considerations in the hand feeding process are the frequency
and volume of feeding. Baby birds grow at an extraordinarily rapid rate and this growth
requires a great deal of food to meet the nutritional needs of the bird. However, the crop
of a young bird holds a limited amount of food, so it must be filled frequently.
As the
bird gets older, the capacity of the crop increases, and the number of daily feedings will
be reduced. The volume to be fed is base upon a combination of observation and judgement.
Procedure
Check the Fullness of the Crop
Nature designed a rather unique feature into the digestive system
of birds-a widening of the oesophagus at the lower pan of the neck This
widening acts as a compartment to hold a quantity of food, and is named
the crop.
The crop can be easily visualized in young birds while feathering is incomplete. In older birds with a well developed covering of feathers, the fullness can be checked by gently feeling the crop with a thumb and index finger.
The crop should be examined before each feeding. Ideally, in the rapidly
growing young bird, the crop should never be allowed to become completely
empty.
Checking the crop fullness will help determine the frequency
and volume of feeding to be given. Normally the crop will empty in 4
hours. A crop that remains full or is not emptying properly indicates
some type
of problem.
Position Bird for Hand-Feeding.
Wild birds are best fed while in a nest box. They will open their beaks and gape,
making feeding very easy. Avoid excessive handling of wild birds. Pet birds are removed
from the nest box and placed on a towel. By cupping a hand gently around the baby during
feeding , adequate support will be given to position him for eating.
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Carefully Introduce Feeding Device into the Mouth.
The introduction of an eye dropper or syringe into the mouth is
relatively easy, as the baby birds will be eager to be fed and will be gaping
(opening the beak wide in order to receive the feeding).
Occasionally, a
bird may not gape, and gentle tapping of the beak with the feeding device
will encourage the bird to open its beak. The device should be carefully
passed into the left side toward the right side of the mouth.
Administration of the formula should be synchronized with swallowing. Birds swallow with an unusual rhythmic bobbing of the head up and down. While the bird is swallowing, the formula is delivered quickly. With practice, a "feet" for the procedure develops, and, done efficiently, the filling of the crop can be accomplished in a surprisingly short time.
Volume of formula to be Given
The volume of food given is of critical importance. overfilling of the crop could
lead to backflow up the oesophagus, into the throat, and down the windpipe, which could
cause death. Under-filling the crop might result in starvation.
As t he food material is being delivered, the crop will begin to fill
and bulge in the region of the lower neck.
Careful observation and experience
are necessary in order
to determine when the crop is adequately filled.
Frequently, the bird will stop gaping when the crop is filled; however, some birds, will continue to gape even when filled. Watch closely when filling for any evidence of food material backing up into the mouth. If this occurs, immediately stop until the mouth is cleared.
When the bird appears to have had enough feeding material, determine the state of fullness of the crop to make sure a sufficient amount of feeding was delivered.
Any excess food material on the skin, beak or feathers should he removed
with warm water when the feeding is complete. It can be followed with a
few drops of warm water to aid in "cleaning the mouth." Feeding
utensils should be cleaned immediately after use. Check the anus to be
certain no fecal matter has accumulated.
Ideally, monitor the bird's weight
daily with an accurate scale. A healthy baby gains weight daily.
Preparation of Baby Bird Formula
Follow the manufacturer's directions when mixing the formula.
Important: "Use distilled or boiled water to eliminate bacteria growth from contaminated tap water." The water should be approximately 105-110 degrees. Add the water to the powder gradually while stirring. After thorough mixing to eliminate lumps, the formula should be the consistency of creamy pudding. This thickness will allow it to be drawn into an eye dropper or syringe or will roll off a spoon. For older birds the mixture may be made thicker.
Do not reuse mixed formula. Discard and mix fresh at each feeding.
If really necessary, sufficient amount of formula may be prepared at one time to last 3
days if covered and refrigerated after preparation.
The amount needed for each feeding can
be heated and fed but not reused. Caution: You might need to add water in the heating
process. Diluting formula by increasing water will reduce the concentration of the diet.
Temperature to Feed Formula
The formula should be served warm- 104-106 F- but not hot, as excess
heat may damage the digestive tract. It should feel Slightly warm to the touch. It is
highly recommended to use a thermometer to measure the temperature.
In order to maintain the heat of the hand-feeding formula mixture, a double-boiler type arrangement can be set up with the container of prepared formula placed in a bowl or pan of warm water during the feeding process.
Feeding Area
Psittacine birds while being fed should be placed on a surface, such as a towel,
where there will be insulative properties to prevent excess heat loss and a surface where
they can grip with their feet, preventing slippage and possible injury.
Frequency of Feeding
Cockatiels and Small Parrots
Baby birds can be removed from their parents from between 8 to 21 days. Waiting
until 2 1/2 to 3 weeks is safer for the beginner, as the bird is hardier due to the
presence of some feathering.
Hatching to 1 week.
If the bird was removed from the nest shortly after hatching, for whatever
reason, feeding requires special care. There should be no attempts to feed the bird for at
least 12 hours after hatching. The crop is very small and will hold only a limited amount
of food. After continued use, it will expand. The first feeding at 12 hours should be one
drop of water. Approximately 1/2 to 1 hour later, another drop of water may be given.
Feeding too frequently during this period may overload the crop and lead to aspiration and
death.
After these initial feedings, if the baby appears normal and is excreting,
a few drops of very thin formula can be given.
In order
that the baby bird receive enough food, the hand-feedings are repeated every two hours around the clock.
One to two weeks - Birds can be fed every 2-3 hours around the dock. If the birds are kept especially warm and comfortable, the night feedings after midnight can be eliminated. However, feedings must begin again at 6:00 AM.
Two to three weeks - This is a relatively safe age to remove the baby birds from the nest for hand-feeding. It is easier to check the crop and feed them. The birds of this age can be fed every three to four hours from 6:00 A.M. to midnight.
Three to four weeks - Feed the birds every 4 hours. As feeding frequency tapers off, the formula can be slightly thickened. At 4 weeks, the birds can be put in a cage with low perches. Water in a bowl may be placed inside.
Five to six weeks - Feed the birds twice daily.
A pelleted bird food
and other foods may be placed in the cage to encourage the bird to eat on its own.
Seven weeks - Birds should be placed in a large cage with pellets in cups and scattered on the floor. Introduce the birds to a variety of succulent foods, but these should not make up more than 20% of the diet. Vegetables such as peas and corn are well accepted.
Weaning
Birds should not be weaned before 7 weeks, usually about 8 weeks. Before weaning
the bird off hand-feeding, keep close watch to see that the bird is actually eating
adequate amounts of pellets on its own and not merely nibbling at the food. Handle the
crop to determine the fullness and check the breastbone for degree of muscling. A weaning
bird may lose as much as 10% of it's weight normally. Any more than that may be an
indication of a problem. It is recommended that the bird be weighed regularly through this
period.
When first weaning the bird, give them pellets, as these are a nutritionally complete and balanced diet for the bird. It is a good idea to keep an older bird in a cage next to the cage with the young weanling to teach them to eat through mimicry.
If the baby birds are not weaned, they will become "spoiled" and will not eat on their own, preferring to be hand fed. However, if they are weaned too early, they will not eat adequately, gradually lose weight, become weak and die. Therefore, if baby birds are begging to be fed, even after they are weaned, there may need to be a reversal back to hand-feeding as they may not be eating adequately.
FREQUENCY OF HAND-FEEDING COCKATIELS and SMALL PARROTS
| Age in Weeks | Number of Daily Feedings |
0 |
Every 2 Hours (Around the Clock) |
| 1 | Every 2 Hours (Around the Clock*) |
| 2 | Every 3 Hours (6 a. m. to Midnight) |
3 |
"Safest" Period To Begin Hand Feeding Every 4 Hours (6 a.m. to Midnight) |
| 4 | Every 5 Hours (6 a.m. to Midnight) |
| 5 to 7 | Two Feedings Daily |
*If bird is kept especially warm and comfortable, the 2 a.m. and 4 a.m. feedings can be eliminated.
Weaning Period - Important -
Make sure bird is eating adequately on its own before discontinuing hand-feeding. Check
fullness of crop.
Housing and Heat
A small cardboard box approximately 12" x12"xl2" or a small fish
aquarium with layers of paper towels over a one inch padding of cloth towelling on the
bottom will serve as an incubator and holding area while the babies are young.
A heating
pad is placed under 1/2 of the box or aquarium. A towel is placed over the top. Either the
heating pad setting or the amount of the top that is covered by the towel may be adjusted
to provide a constant 85-90' for non-feathered birds. The temperature is gradually reduced
as they become feathered and mature. It is recommended to observe the babies carefully to
determine their comfort level. A cold baby will shiver and a baby that is too hot will not
sleep well and will breathe heavily through an open mouth. A bottle or tin filled with
water and holes punched in the lid to allow for evaporation will help to provide humidity.
WILD BIRDS
Frequency of Feeding
The frequency and volume of feedings given to baby birds are largely determined
by their age. Judging the age of wild birds is difficult if untrained, so the best way to
determine feeding requirements is through the use of readily observable changes in the
bird.
For example, whether or not the eyes are open, and if the bird is standing up
"off their hocks."
Before the eyes are open
If the baby birds appear strong and are peeping with their mouths gaping open,
then they can eat as much as they want. Ideally, baby birds of this young age should be
fed every 15-20 minutes until their eyes are open. They can go up to 30 minutes without a
feeding with no ill effects; however, more frequent feedings are preferred. They do not
require around-the-dock feeding as in nature, they are fed only during daylight hours. In
accordance with this, they are given feedings for a 12 hour period. Nonetheless,
hand-feeding wild birds is quite a commitment, as it requires nearly 50 feedings per day.
When the eyes are open
As the bird becomes older, the frequency of hand-feeding can be reduced and the
volume increased. Efforts can be initiated to get the bird to eat on its own.
When a bird
initially opens its eyes, it can be fed every half hour unless hungry or peeping.
When birds are "off their hocks"
When birds become stronger and begin to stand on their legs ("off their
hocks'), then feedings can be given every 45 minutes. Time between feedings can steadily
increased, and when the bird is out of the nest, feedings can be given at 2 hour
intervals.
FREQUENCY OF HAND-FEEDING FOR WILD BIRDS
| Age | Number of Daily Feedings |
Before Eyes Are Open: |
Feed Bird Every 15 Minutes (12 Hour Period) |
| Eyes Are Open: | Feed Bird Every 30 Minutes (12 Hour Period) |
| Off Their Hocks | Feed Bird Every 45 Minutes (12 Hour Period) |
| Bird Out Of Nest: (Standing On Their Own) |
Feed Bird Every 2 Hours (12 Hour Period) |
*Wean at 15 Days
IMPORTANT-Bird must be eating adequately on its own.
Weaning
Wild birds should begin showing interest in their surroundings and start to eat
on their own by 15 days. Provide live food (meal worms) and grass, twigs, etc. in the nest
to stimulate interest in the environment. Spreading seed on the bottom of the nest will
also encourage the bird to eat on its own.
During the weaning period, it is critical to keep a close watch on the bird in order that good nutrition is maintained. Many times, a bird may be pecking at seed, giving the impression that it is eating, when in actuality, it is not taking in enough for maintenance. Therefore, it is very important to observe if the bird is eating seed during this period and regularly check the crop for fullness.
If other young birds who are eating on their own are present, placing
the baby bird in the same cage will hasten socialization, and the bird
will
learn to eat on its own through the
imitation of others.
Housing For Wild Baby Birds
Following nature's design, a nest is constructed. The sides are formed from cloth
rolled to a diameter of 1 1/2 inches and then forming a circular shape like a doughnut.
The nest would have a diameter of 4-8 inches, depending upon the number and size of
the babies. The 1 1/2' height makes the sides of the nest sufficiently high to keep the
babies in the nest, but low enough to allow the baby bird to scoot backwards and pass his
waste over the side of the nest.
Paper towels are placed in the bottom of the nest to a depth of 1/2 inch and then placed over the top of the entire nest. The towels are arranged to form a sloping surface which enables the bird to back up to the top of the nest to eliminate, and the paper towels can be easily replaced to maintain cleanliness.
Heat and Humidity
To provide heat in the nest box, a heating pad can be placed under half of the
nest and dialed to a setting which will maintain temperature of 85-90 degrees for non
feathered birds and gradually reduced as they become feathered.
By placing heat under half
the nest, the bird is able to select the area where the temperature is most comfortable.
The box should be kept covered. A bottle or tin filled with water and holes punched in the
lid to allow for evaporation will help to provide proper humidity.
Caution
While raising wild birds is rewarding, please, do not make a wild bird a pet. For
more information contact your local Wildlife Agency, local Rehabilitation Center, Humane
Society, State Fish and Game Agency or the Federal United States Fish and Wildlife
Service.
Weaning Pet Birds With Avi-Cakes Food
Your pet birds have received a good start in life through the nutritional
benefits of Nutri- Start baby bird food. It is important to continue with high-quality
nutrition during the weaning stage and beyond. Lafeber's Avi-Cakes are an excellent
weaning food for your birds.
When birds reach the weaning stage, simply break Avi-Cakes into small
pieces and spread them near the babies.
They will first investigate
the food; then, pick it up and start
self-feeding. (Supply fresh Avi-Cakes daily.) When the babies are eating
the Avi-Cakes you will first want to eliminate the middle of the day
hand-fed meal. As the birds continue
eating on their own, discontinue the morning and finally the evening hand-fed
meal.
Since Avi-Cakes provide complete nutrition for pet birds, you may continue feeding Avi-Cakes or you may choose one of the other fine quality foods manufactured by Lafeber Company.
This bit of information was brought to you by Lafeber Bird Foods
Taming a parrot to the hand
Taming a feathered pet does not, of course, take place immediately after coming home from the store with it.
Content
- 1 Original adaptation
- 2 Thak to hand
- 9000
Initial adaptation
First, the parrot will have to adapt to the new environment, get used to new smells and sounds.
Then you begin to gradually accustom him to you. First of all, to the sound of your voice. Try to address him by name as often as possible, while the intonation should be affectionate, calm. In no case do not allow yourself to raise your voice or make sudden movements with it. This stage can take up to several days. Secondly, you begin to teach the feathered pet to eat in your presence. Having poured food into his feeder, affectionately invite him “to the table”, calling him by name, and sit next to him in his field of vision. Sit quietly, without moving or talking. This stage is also not a quick one: it will take from several days to weeks, depending on the temperament of the bird and on its past experiences with humans. As soon as you notice that the parrot does not shy away from the feeder in front of you, but calmly and with appetite gobbles up what is offered, then you have achieved the desired result.
Experts call the third stage feeding. This is what scares the bird so much at first - the constant violation of the feathered personal space by a person.
However, we cannot help but feed, and even more so, in the first weeks of the presence of a bird in the house, on the contrary, it is necessary to feed as often as possible - up to 8 times a day. Portions, of course, should be reduced. That is, more often, but less. The parrot will undergo this procedure more often and addiction should go faster. Remember that you need to stock up on remarkable patience, do not force things - let the parrot decide whether he is ready or not to move to the next step in your relationship.
Something to consider.
There is another important nuance that should be taken into account at first. This is the position of the cell. Do not place the cage too high, so that the pet does not look down on everyone and does not turn into a dictator in the future. Do not set too low, then, on the contrary, the parrot will feel pressure on itself and constant fear of you, and this, of course, will interfere with establishing trusting relationships.
The best height is at your eye level. This will help build equal relationships. Hand taming
Once the first three steps have been completed, you can proceed directly to getting used to the hand.
Food in the fingers
We start this stage by offering food to the feathered pet in the fingers put through the bars. Offer your favorite treat. To find out the taste preferences of your parrot, before that you will need to watch him. Pay attention to what kind of food offered in the feeder the bird eats first. Having found out this, do not pour more tasty treats into the feeder, but use it only for classes. So, sticking your hand out with a treat clutched in your fingers, freeze and move, just gently talk to your pet, inviting him to try. At first, the parrot will refuse, but over time, having overcome its fear, the bird will take the food offered to it. Once this happens, do not rush to move on to the next step - you need to carefully fix this one. Continue this exercise for at least a week.
Food in the palm of your hand
Having consolidated the acquired skill, it's time to move directly to the hand. Pour food into your hand and quietly, without sudden and quick movements, put your hand into the cage and hold it there for a while. Of course, at first, refusal will again follow. But this is normal - the parrot needs to get used to the new object in his home, even with food. If the addiction process is too long: the parrot not only does not approach the hand, but also continues to shy away from it and hide in a corner, try the starvation method.
The fasting method
The fasting method is based on the fact that the bird will be hungry and whether he likes it or not, he will have to overcome himself in order to get enough. It is best to use this system in the morning - before the bird has breakfast. Waking up, the parrot, as usual, will rush to the feeder, in which there will be nothing. At this time, you, as a savior-deliverer, offer her food on your hand.
Not instantly, but the bird will still begin to approach the outstretched hand and try the food. At first, grabbing the grain, she will again run back to the protective corner. At this point, the main thing is that you do not move or move. The method of fasting is based on the fact that the bird will be hungry and whether it likes it or not, it will have to overpower itself to get enough. It is best to use this system in the morning - before the bird has breakfast. Waking up, the parrot, as usual, will rush to the feeder, in which there will be nothing. At this time, you, as a savior-deliverer, offer her food on your hand. Not instantly, but the bird will still begin to approach the outstretched hand and try the food. At first, grabbing the grain, she will again run back to the protective corner. At this point, the main thing is that you do not move or twitch. Your pet must understand that your hand does not carry any danger, except for getting taste pleasure. Over time, fear will recede, but you still continue this exercise for some more time until the acquired skills are fully consolidated.
At this stage, the hand with food should not be fully opened: the fingers are, as it were, in a half-clenched fist. Feeding in the open hand
Once you have mastered this stage, you can move on to learning to feed directly on your hand. To do this, we completely open the palm, pouring food into the very center. Now, in order to get to the food, the bird will need to jump onto his hand. At this moment, your calmness and endurance are again important: do not shy away, do not scream with joy - all this will scare the feathered one, and all classes will have to start from the very beginning.
Removal on the arm from cage
After this, the final stage of the final taming to the hand will remain - the removal of the bird on the hand from the cage. We teach small individuals to sit on the finger, large ones - on the hand. This division is explained very simply: the girth of the legs of each of them corresponds to the thickness of either a finger or a hand. In order for the pet to sit on the finger, we bring the finger to its paws and stick it to the tummy between the paws.
The parrot will quickly understand what they want from him and do what is needed. Once again, we remind you that at all stages of taming, in no case do we shout and do not make sudden movements. On the contrary, we talk with a parrot extremely affectionately and gently. He should always associate your voice with calmness and protection. Of course, taming a parrot is not an easy task, requiring patience and time for both a person and a bird. It will be different for each of you. There are some criteria on which the speed and fruitfulness of parrot taming depends: • Individual characteristics and character of the bird • Regularity of training • Consciousness of the owner's actions during training
Do not rush. Remember that a parrot is not a toy, it is a living being, it is a person with his own desires, character and inclinations. Learn to understand each other, and then you will find a real comrade for yourself.
There are also interesting options on the video step by step:
1.
After buying in the store: 2. Step two: we establish communication.
3. Third step: tame to the hand inside the cage.
4. Fourth step: tame to the hand outside the cage.
What to feed a budgerigar: expert advice0003
Scientists have found that wild budgerigars in their homeland - in Australia - eat 21 types of seeds from 39 plant species. And what food can we offer our wavy pets here in Russia so that they feel no worse than their relatives in nature? With this question, the ZooTver portal turned to a connoisseur of budgerigars, Olga Makurina from Rzhevity, who raised more than one generation of these birds at home. Read the interview with her below.
Let's introduce our expert.
Makurina Olga Yurievna, budgerigar breeder. Currently, Olga Yuryevna has about 30 adult "wavy", of which 8 are exhibition (Czechs). The offspring of her birds live in many cities of the Tver region and Russia. In addition, she is a moderator on the popular budgerigar forum: she answers questions from users and gives recommendations to newcomers.
Olga Yuryevna has already been visiting the ZooTver portal. An interview with her tips for choosing budgerigars can be read here. Hello again, Olga Yurievna! Among the owners of budgerigars there are those who will say that there is no problem in feeding these birds. You buy ready-made food for "wavy" and that's it. Or is a more rigorous approach needed?
Hello everyone! Of course, a more rigorous approach is needed if you want your budgie to be healthy and happy for many years to come. But this is not a problem at all if you get acquainted with the information on feeding parrots in time and follow the basic rules. One dry food is not enough for the full nutrition of a parrot, this is only the basis of the diet. The parrot needs to be given vegetables, fruits, fresh herbs, twigs.
What, in your opinion, should be the main criterion when choosing a ready-made food for parrots: composition, manufacturer or something else?
Pet stores now offer a large selection of different foods for budgerigars and which one to give preference to is a personal matter of each owner and the tastes of a parrot.
As a rule, almost all feeds have a balanced composition. I would advise taking into account the reviews of the owners of parrots when choosing a brand of food. It is difficult for an ignorant person to navigate in this wealth of choice of food for parrots
food for insects and pests. It is very important to strictly monitor the expiration date and the quality of the feed. If you opened the pack and saw mold, dirt, insects, or felt an unpleasant smell, in no case should you feed it to a parrot. Place such food in the trash can.
Is it possible to refuse commercially produced food and try to create a complete diet for your feathered pet on your own?
You can refuse, but it is not so easy to make a complete food with the right proportions. And even if you learn how to do it, not all the necessary ingredients can be bought separately. I see no reason for the owners of 1-2 parrots, as they say, to "bother".
Breeders who have many birds make their own food. What treats can be given to parrots and in what quantities?
I am against all kinds of honey sticks, rings and other treats. I give my parrots Senegalese millet, chumiza, paiza - these are ears dried without the use of adhesives. They are sold in pet stores. For one bird a day, a small piece 2-3 cm long is sufficient.0002 Perhaps someone considers fruits, vegetables, herbs to be a delicacy. I classify them as must-haves, not treats. That is, they should not be given from time to time, but regularly. Parrots love to chew on things. So that the wallpaper and furniture in the apartment do not suffer, hang twigs with bark (well washed) in a cage or in places of walking, replace some of the perches with such branches. This is both a treat and entertainment for your pet.
Mineral stone or sepia (cuttlefish shell) must be hung in the cage at all times. This is a source of calcium. In addition, birds sharpen their beaks on it.
Adult parrots also need to hang an additional feeder with a mineral mixture. I do not recommend for chicks. Cuttlefish shell (sepia)
Tell us, have you changed the principles of feeding your pets?
I immediately read everything related to feeding, so I did not change the principles, but at first I tried different foods. As a result, I chose one brand and have been using it only for many years.
Are there any foods that parrots are willing to eat, but they are strictly forbidden to them?
Of course they do. Parrots are strictly forbidden food from our table, they can not have dairy, sweet, salty, fatty, chocolate, cheese, as well as fresh bread. If you like that the bird eats from your plate, then put grated carrots or beets in this plate, for example. And when you eat your food, it is better to close the bird in the cage. In the printed literature there is information that parrots should be given bread soaked in milk.
I do not recommend following this advice: parrots cannot digest milk, and bread can clog their goiter. Do not give the "wavy" spicy herbs - dill, parsley and so on. There is also a list of prohibited fruits and vegetables, poisonous houseplants, which you should definitely read. It is easy to find it on the Internet. Do not let parrots on house plants, it is better to grow special grass for them
Does the diet depend on the age of the bird, its sex, the presence of offspring, molting?
Yes, it depends. Feeding birds during the nesting period is significantly different from the usual diet. But this is a separate topic that deserves careful study, it will not work in a nutshell. There are also differences based on age. Before the first molt, chicks need to add soft food: egg mash, sprouts, cereals. Adult birds do not need cereals, and if the birds are not on the nest, then it is not recommended to give an egg; seedlings with care so as not to provoke unwanted laying.
During the molting period, you can use special feeds, or you can enrich the diet yourself with calcium and sulfur preparations. With any use of vitamins and supplements, it is imperative to clarify the dosages and not exceed them. What is wrong with eating?
Improper nutrition can cause not only obesity, but also metabolic disorders, which will subsequently lead to numerous diseases of the parrot, and eventually to premature death.
How can you tell by the appearance or behavior of a bird that it is suffering from malnutrition or malnutrition?
Overweight birds can be seen immediately, and obese birds can hardly fly. It is more difficult with a lack of weight: under the feather it is not always easy to notice that the parrot has lost weight. When probing, you can feel that the keel is “sharp” and sticks out - this is a sign of exhaustion. If malnutrition has led to a disease of the gastrointestinal tract, then the litter will worsen: it will become liquid or change color.
Improper nutrition can also affect the quality of plumage. It is better not to wait until the consequences become noticeable, because it is very difficult to bring the bird back to normal, and sometimes the treatment costs many times more than the bird itself.
Probably, so that the parrot does not have, on the one hand, obesity, and on the other, malnutrition, it is important to know not only the composition of the diet, but also its volume? Then how much does an adult bird need per day of grain mixture, how many vegetables and fruits?
2 teaspoons of grain feed per bird per day. Young chicks (up to 4 months old) need to pour more - up to 3 tablespoons. They are still growing, and obesity does not threaten them. Feed should be renewed daily, pouring the daily rate into the feeder. Fruits and vegetables can not be limited, but everything that is not eaten during the day should be removed.
Didn't you forget to add grain feed today?!
We know that there are animals in nature that practically do not drink and get water along with the food they eat.
But budgerigars are not one of those, are they? In this case, when and how often should they drink? There must be a drinker with fresh unboiled water, filtered or bottled, in the cage at all times. The drinker should be washed daily and the water changed. The bird drinks when it wants, they drink a little, you may not even notice even once during the day when the parrot comes to the drinker.
Many owners dream of teaching their budgie to eat with their hands. Is it worth it? If there is nothing wrong, maybe you will advise how to achieve this skill?
I don't see anything wrong with that. But do not forget that the bird should be fully fed from the feeder, and treats can be given from the hand. This is one of the most common ways to tame parrots. Birds get used to the diet you set for them. Try every day before pouring fresh food into the feeder, offer the parrot a “yummy” from the palm of your hand. As a rule, the parrot is already hungry and is waiting to be fed.
10 minutes a day is enough, but if you are ready to communicate with the bird for longer, then you will achieve results faster. Perhaps it will take time, you will have to sit in front of the cage with an “outstretched hand” for more than one day. But the result is worth it. Someone is tamed faster, someone is slower, be patient, it's your desire to have a tame bird. To achieve a result, you will have to sit for more than one day “with outstretched hand”
In this interview you said a lot of useful things. But not every reader will remember everything. Can you boil down this information into a few short rules that will never make a mistake when choosing food for your budgerigar?
There is a lot of information, I have not stated all of it. But I'll try:
- Pick one brand of food that you trust and don't change it. Any transition to a new food should be done gradually so as not to cause problems with the gastrointestinal tract.
