How often should you feed a baby corn snake

Feeding corn snakes - ExoticDirect

Just like other snakes, the commonly kept corn snake is carnivorous. And In their natural habitat of southern and central United States, they would readily consume a multitude of prey. From natively found mice and other rodents to amphibians, birds, and even bird eggs.

Corn snake food

I feed my corn snake, as well as other snakes: rats, mice, chicks, hamsters, gerbils, quail, multimammate mice and guinea pigs.

All of the above I purchase frozen. Northampton Reptile Centre who will deliver to your door.

So as you see, there’s no real excuse for not having variety, even with a snake.

Corn snakes enjoy eating rats

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Can corn snakes eat....
How often do corn snakes need to eat?
When is the best time to feed a corn snake?
What treats can you give a corn snake?
Overweight corn snakes
How to defrost frozen mice for snakes
How to give food to snakes
Why is my snake so aggressive after feeding?
Corn snake regurgitation
Why is my corn snake not eating?
Feeding corn snakes when shedding

Can corn snakes eat roaches, vegetables, eggs, fish, beef or pork?

Fish: I know keepers that have fed fish to their corns and they have taken them. But for me, it is not part of their natural diet anyway. So I'm not going to start feeding such now.
Eggs: I've fed quail eggs over the years to many rat snake species, corns included. But a long time has passed since I've personally fed such.
Roaches: (crickets. locust etc). These can't be fed.
Veg: These can't be fed.
Beef: This can't be fed.
Pork: This can't be fed either.

Not only are these foodstuffs nutritionally poor, but you would unlikely get a feeding response from the snake anyway.

Feeding frequency is related to the age and size of your snake

How often should you feed a corn snake?

This for me is very much age and snake size related, as well as the feeder/prey size.

Hatchlings: I fed my hatchling corns a pinky mouse every five days for a good six or seven months. Some say to feed hatchlings two or three times a week, however I think that’s a little excessive.

Juveniles: For snakes over six or seven months, feed once every seven to ten days. Do this for a couple of years, also going up in prey size with the snakes growth.

Adults: For fully grown snakes (those that are two years +) I wait a little longer feeding every 14 to 21 days. This is obviously based on the prey feeder size I'm giving.

For the first couple of months the corn will only be able to have pinkies. Even rat pups will be too big for those first couple of months.

After this period you’ll be good to rotate feeders. Rats and mice should be offered, in fact rats are nutritionally better as there’s more muscle and less fat.

But of course variety is also great and my preferred option.

When to feed pinkies and fuzzies to corn snakes

Snakes will have different weights at the same age, depending on the diet given where you made your snake purchase.

For me, if I have a young or hatchling corn I feed pinkies up until the corns weight is around 25-30g.

I then move up a feeder size to fuzzy.

Overall though. When deciding on what mice or rat size to feed your corn it’s a good rule to go with a feeder that is roughly the size, in width, of the snakes mid-body section.

Slightly bigger won’t be an issue, but too big and it can lead to issues such as regurgitation and stress. Either way, it’s not good.

And you need to remember, if you go for bigger food increase the time between feeds.

It’s certainly not uncommon for a corn snake that has been fed a weaner rat, to then not be fed again for 10 to 14 days, sometimes longer. And absolutely no issues will arise.

Corn snakes would probably eat everyday if you provided them the food. They are pretty quick metabolically, but health wise this would only lead to obesity and major weight related issues, and possibly premature death.

You can often tell when your corn is wanting food as it will actively “hunt”, pacing up and down, and fully exploring the setup searching for food.

Of course allowing them to do this for a few days is not causing any issues, and certainly no cause for giving in and feeding if a feed is not due. In-fact, the 'hunting' behaviour can be considered a good form of exercise.

Finally, when you buy your corn snake always ask what their feeding regime has been. They will be able to give you a full breakdown without any issue.

The time of day for feeding is irrelevant as long as you have a good feeding schedule

What is the best time to feed a corn snake?

This can be fully dependant on your own schedule regarding time of the day that you choose to feed.

As long as you have good feeding regime when it comes to how frequently you feed. the time of day is almost irrelevant.

I've known keepers to have a corn that wouldn't feed with their lights (uvb) on, and only when it was dark. But that's not common.

What treats to give a corn snake?

There is little in the way of treats to give your corn snake.

Many consider the likes of 'chicks' a treat item. But nutritionally, apart from being slightly more fatty, they are not to dissimilar to their usual food.

The only common side-effect is the fact feeding a chick often causes more loose faecal waste from your snake.

This in turn causes them to be placed in the “treat food” bracket. And I'd go with that too.

Your snakes food will stay fresh for six to nine months if stored correctly

How long can you keep frozen mice in the freezer?

A good guide to go by is up to six months for hair and/or fur-less prey. And six to nine months for those with hair, fur or feathers.

They can probably last a little longer if the packaging is unopened.

You should always use a proper deep freeze freezer, not just the quick freeze compartment at the top of your fridge.

Also packaging plays an important role here, as little air as possible is best. And a good thick freezer bag should be used if they are not already individually bagged and sealed.

Anything exposed to the freezer via a ripped bag, or un-bagged will get freezer burns. These tend to look all crystallised and almost grey in colour.

The snake would probably still eat them once thawed out, and it’s unlikely it would make them ill, however it’s still not a nice thought to feed them to your snake.

If the taste and texture doesn’t taste very good, and you wouldn't eat it – why submit your corn to it :-)

Overweight corn snakes

Due to the variety of morphs available that can have an effect on natural body build, as well as breeding genetics, it’s hard to define an ideal weight.

I’d recommend keep a personal record of your snakes weight. Weighing every month is a good idea. This will help you understand fluctuations and what’s ‘normal’ for your snake.

As for what to look for, it’s probably easiest to go by the shape of the snake via the circumference.

If you have a snake that is either under or overweight. It's best to consult your exotics vet, and discuss a relevant feeding regime.

Unless is a medical issue like parasites, both can be rectified by following a strict dietary regime.

Make sure your corn's food is completely defrosted before feeding

How to defrost frozen mice for snakes

What I do is take out a frozen mouse/rat/chick and if it’s in its individual packaging, I leave it in.

I'll defrost it in the fridge overnight for the next day, or on the side at room temperature in a tub for around two to five hours.. My preferred method is the fridge.

Anything from pinky to hopper will defrost in two or three hours. I'd say weaner and bigger three to five hours.

You can defrost in cool water and it will be faster, probably half the time.

Do not defrost in warm or hot water. Bacteria associated with disease and decay can begin to reproduce in these wet conditions over a period of a few hours. That's lot of dangerous bacteria to be feeding your corn snake.

How to give food to snakes

Once you have properly thawed that prey, you must warm it up before feeding to your corn snake.

Some will place the prey in hot water (not boiling) and leave it for five minutes and then offer to the snake.

Personally, I'm a dunker. I'll submerge the top half of the prey in very hot water for about 30 seconds (again, not boiling water) and then offer to the snake via some large metal tongs (forceps). This method has served me very well over the years.

I have had some snakes that wouldn't take wet prey, so I'd resort to heating the head with a hair-dryer for about five mins. It was a total pain in the backside but needs must as they say.

I've known some to also use a microwave. This is something I have never done and I wouldn't recommend doing such.

There are disaster stories of exploding mice and rats and that is something I'd not want to be cleaning up.

As long as the method you choose allows that prey to be fully thawed no issues will arise.

Why is my corn snake so aggressive after feeding?

This is something that annoys me. I see it in my Snake group on Facebook (Snake Network), as well as other groups. People removing their snake from its setup and feeding in a tub/rub or another tank.

People seem to have this notion that if you feed the snake in its setup, it will become setup/cage aggressive. No.

The setup is the snakes territory. Why would you remove the snake from its established territory, a place where it feels safe, confident and stress free into a tub with none of these?

And then move the snake back into its setup. Again, major stress alert, while also risking regurgitation.

If the snake is aggressive in and around its setup, its just being a snake. Feeding outside of this will not change this situation.

If anything it will just cause stress, which in-turn, can cause illness to your snake.

So please feed your snake in its own setup.

How long does it take for a corn snake to digest food?

Providing you have the correct temperature within the setup (see my corn snake care guide here on ExoticDirect), the 48 hour “rule” is a great guide.

Can you handle a snake after it eats?

You shouldn’t handle your corn (or any snake) for 48 hours after a feed in order to allow the snake to fully digest its meal.

Corn snake regurgitation

If you handle your snake when it’s just eaten you risk stressing your snake out and causing it to regurgitate its meal. Regurgitation in itself is a huge stress burden for your snake and could lead to possible illness.

Regurgitation can also happen if your snake is fed something too large to digest. If this does happen try not to panic. Wait a few more days, and feed something much smaller.

If your corn is about to shed it may stop eating

Why is my corn snake not eating?

The main issues would be:

Pending shed
Winter months
Incorrect setup temperature
Not hungry
Food not heated up
Fussy
Dehydration
Illness (mites, mouth rot etc)

Winter months: Reptiles are very sensitive to air pressure changes, and you'll even find some act differently during a storm.

Regardless of your setup, the changing weather can impact your reptiles appetite. Brumation can also occur, which is linked to seasonal changes, and this can lead to a reduced appetite.

Fussy eaters: Often a change of feeder prey will break a stubborn corn snake's food strike. From mice to rats, or vice versa.

It’s a good idea to rotate food anyway, as you’re then less likely to have a fussy eater on your hands.

If your corn has not taken the food you can leave it in the setup for another two or three hours as some will not take food when you are in their territory. If it’s not taken after this period then you must discard it.

Dehydration: It's essential you provide water for your snake - dehydration can lead to ill health and loss of appetite. Snakes will drink via their mouth.

I provide a large bowl deep enough for the snake to drink from, soak in, to aid shedding or to cool down.

Growing: It's also not uncommon for a corn snake to miss a scheduled feed or two while growing. If this is the case, while obviously you'll be annoyed you've wasted a feeder, just try the feed again in five to seven days and keep an eye on that snakes weight. And make sure that the snake has adequate hydration.

Incorrect temperature: One of the most common issues I see is incorrect temperature. This will stop a snake from feeding, regardless of species.

With a digestion time of 24 to 48 hours in the correct conditions, any lower temperature will cause food to take longer to digest. This in turn can cause digestive issues and the snake will not want to eat.

So it’s vital you have a good heat gradient in that setup with a basking zone of around 30c. A little higher or lower won't be much of an issue providing there is ample coverage and options to self-regulate.

Again, check out my article on the correct corn snake setup, written for ExoticDirect.

Any significant weight loss, or over long extended time of not eating, please consult your exotic vet as there could well be some underlying issues present.

Feeding corn snakes when shedding

Pending shed is also another popular food strike cause.

A snake will often hide away during this period which can last a couple of weeks. And it’s certainly not uncommon for a corn snake to refuse food.

Many will not care if they are about to shed or not, and still eat regardless.

For me, if they are due to shed. I'll wait until the process is over.

This is because if they shed while digesting a meal it can cause areas of stuck shed. This is due to the stretched skin trying to compensate for the food bulge in the digestive system.

Personally I'd rather a nice complete hassle free shed.

And finally, just in case you're not sure - here's a recap of the terminology for the different food types....

What's a pinky, fuzzy, fluff and hopper?

Pinky: A pinky is a newborn mouse. Ranging from one to three grams in weight, depending on where you purchase them.

They have no fur and are high in protein, with a pretty low fat content. Some consider them to be quite fatty, but this is wrong.

They often have the benefit of a belly full of the mothers milk, making them a bundle of calcium (often seen as a white blob through the pinky skin around the stomach area).

The equivalent rat would be a rat pup. These a slightly bigger in size, around 5g.

Fuzzy: A fuzzy is a baby mouse, that has fur. Albeit, not a great deal of it. They are slightly bigger in size and weigh around 3-5g.

The rat equivalent is called a fluff. And around 10-25g in weight, so quite a substantial difference.

Hopper: You then have the next stage, hoppers. These are around 5-9g in weight and are fully formed, but not fully grown.

The rat equivalent would be the weaner rat, at around 25-50g.

Adult mice and rats: You then move onto fully developed mice and rats. The only difference would be smaller and larger sizes.

How Many Pinkies To Feed Baby Corn Snakes?

Do you worry about feeding your baby corn snake?

Are you unsure how many pinkies you should be feeding your baby corn snake?

Pinkies are mice that have not yet grown fur and are the best thing to feed your baby corn snake.

They are usually accessible frozen at your local pet store.

So how many pinkies do I feed a baby corn snake?

Baby corn snakes, or hatchlings, should be fed one to two pinkies per week, depending on their size. Do not feed your corn snake anything larger than one and a half times its midsection. Switch to fuzzies as your hatchling grows.

Continue reading for everything you need to know about feeding your baby corn snake.

Table of Contents

How Many Pinkies Do I Feed A Baby Corn Snake?

Your baby corn snake will do best if you feed it one to two pinkies per week.

The number will depend on the age and size of your hatchling.

At first, it might only eat one pinky but can increase as your snake grows.

With older hatchlings, you will be able to feed them to snakes one after the other, but when they are very young, it is best only to give one at a time.

The number of pinkies you feed your baby corn snake will also depend on the size of the pinky.

What is a Pinky?

Baby corn snakes should be fed pinkies, small mice not yet mature enough to have fur.

Without fur, they appear to be pink in color and, therefore, are given the title “pinky.”

These mice are a day or two old and usually weigh about two grams.

Frozen pinkies are readily available at local pet stores to be used as food for pet snakes.

They are typically flash-frozen and sold for your convenience in stores.

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Defrosting Those Pinkies

Snakes are not going to want to eat their prey when it is frozen.

Instead, they prefer to be at room temperature.

The best way to defrost those frozen pinkies you bought at the store is to dip them in a baggie in heated water for around an hour.

Be sure the water is not boiling.

This will bring the pinky to room temperature without cooking it.

Do not use a microwave to defrost, as this will cook the meat, and your snake will not and should not eat cooked meat.

How To Choose The Right Size Prey

It is challenging to pick the right size prey for your snake to eat safely.

If the prey is too large for your snake to consume, there are some pretty severe health consequences for your pet.

It would be best to feed your snake prey about the same size as the widest point of its body.

Do not feed your snake any prey more than one and a half times the midsection measurement.

As your snake grows, the size of the prey will have to be adjusted.

Your hatchling will be started on pinkies and eventually move up to fuzzies, hoppers, and weanlings.

Eventually, in adulthood, you will be feeding your snake large or even extra-large mice and, in some cases, rats.

How Often Should I Feed My Baby Corn Snake?

Your baby corn snake will need to be fed every five to seven days.

The time between feedings will also change in adulthood.

When your snake is fully grown, feeding times will change to every seven to ten days.

Handling Your Snake Before And After Feeding

Besides some of the do’s and don’ts we have already discussed, there are other vital things to remember when feeding your pet.

Corn snakes are among the most good-tempered snakes available, making them excellent pets for first-time snake owners.

Too much handling before a meal is stressful and causes agitation, making them avoid their food.

Also, after feeding, remember snakes should not be handled for a day or two.

Handling them too soon after a feeding can cause a painful regurgitation.

Frozen vs. Live Prey

Thawed frozen prey is a better option for feeding your snake than live prey.

While some might argue live prey is more natural for the animal, they can introduce parasites or diseases to your snake, resulting in death.

Feeding your snake live prey could result in an injury when the prey begins to fight for its life, scratching or biting your pet.

For economic reasons, frozen prey is less expensive than the live prey option, and sometimes it is a challenge to find live rodents at stores to feed your pet.

The live versus frozen choice is one you will have to make for your pet.

Some snakes will only eat live prey, primarily if they were raised on them or raised in the wild.

It is a good idea to find out if your baby corn snake has been raised on pinkies before you have ownership.

Why Isn’t My Corn Snake Eating?

There are many reasons your baby corn snake might not be interested in eating, ranging from simple ones like they aren’t hungry to digestive problems.

If your snake is entering or in the middle of a shedding cycle, it will not want to eat.

Your snake may also avoid food if it is stressed, their environment has changed, leaving them nervous, or they are too cold.

The environmental issues are easy fixes for you to make to calm your snake.

If you have made some of those environmental changes and you’re still having problems getting your snake to eat, it is a good idea to get an opinion from a vet.

They will determine if your snake has a health issue preventing your snake from taking in food.

Conclusion

Feeding your corn snake is not a complicated process, but the task can seem daunting at first with so many questions.

Feeding your baby corn snake one to two pinkies every five to seven days will guarantee a happy and healthy pet.

We hope reading this article has taken some guesswork out of making sure your hatchling is appropriately fed.

Maize snake. Feeding. | Teniura

In nature, maize snakes feed on small and medium rodents, bats, birds and their eggs, occasionally lizards. Are eating unstable, as they hunt for something then they eat it.

At home, maize is fed

laboratory mice
mastomys
rats
hamsters (rarely because they are fat)
chickens

In no case should you feed maize and other snakes with meat from the store, for them it is an inferior food. The snake definitely needs vitamins and trace elements that are in the internal organs of rodents and birds. And wool and feathers are needed for peristaltics, and they come out unprocessed.

Feeding babies

Little maize hatches from the egg and in the first 7-10 days the baby completely absorbs the reserves of the yolk sac that he has drawn from the egg. Before the first feeding, the baby should make a mistake, shed, and only after that you can start feeding him.

Not all corn snake babies begin to eat immediately after the first molt. In nature, such babies die, and at home there is a chance to teach them to eat on their own, by force-feeding several times.

If you are a beginner and get your first snake, take only one that is already stable on its own and has not had burps. And it will be already a little grown maize, and not a baby.

Babies under 4-6 months of age should be fed every 5-6 days only by newborn naked mice, occasionally hamsters. Growing maize snake should not starve.

Mastomis pebbles

Important! It is better to place a small snake up to a year in a compact container of 10-15 liters, having previously equipped it in accordance with all the rules. In terrariums and containers of large volume and without shelters, maize tend to become stressed and refuse to eat.

Feeding adolescents

Every 3-4 months, as the snake grows, it is necessary to transfer to a larger food and select for each baby individually one suitable KO. The food object should be increased gradually and at the same time feed less frequently. Also be guided by the thickness of the snake: the thickness of the KO can be a maximum of 1.5 of the thickness of the snake.

Adult snakes can be fed once every 7-9 days pubescent mice, mastomis, newborn rats, quails.

Naked rat

Feeding adult maize

It is enough to feed adult snakes every 7-14 days with a food object of a suitable size and weighing about 40 g: a large mouse, a chicken, a small running rat. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account the size of the snake, the larger the snake, the more KO it can be offered. Too much KO can lead to unwanted burping.

Corn snakes are easy to pick up defrosted food.

Maize snake actively grows up to 3 years.

Thawed day old chick

Feeding and moulting

Do not feed snakes during moulting. Usually grown and adult individuals themselves refuse to eat during molting.

Very small snakes molt quickly, they can shed in one day. It happens in the morning he fed, and by lunchtime the serpent had already left in a molt And usually, together, the processes of molting and digestion of food take place in babies. painlessly.

Feed change

Not all snakes easily switch to a new type of food. If the snake refuses new type of food, you can try to deceive her by rubbing the new type of food with the usual scent food. For example, “rub” a hamster with a mouse.

It happens that a snake eats only live food, it also eats one species, for example, the Dzhugnar hamster, but refuses to eat other food, for example, a mouse. And in this case, you can retrain the snake: put the mouse to the Dzhugnar hamster so that the mouse is saturated with the smell of the Dzhungar. This can take a lot of time, most likely it will not work to transfer the snake to a new type of food the first time.

When to feed

Corn snakes should only be fed after how they are completely fucked up. Adult snakes usually do this on the 3rd day, quite kids - earlier.

Snakes usually drink after they have eaten, so make sure that the water in the drinking bowl is clean.

It is not necessary to give vitamins with meals, because that with complete food, snakes get everything they need, and an overdose vitamins are dangerous.

It is safe to feed animals on the mat. They will not swallow artificial grass with their food.

What to ask when buying corn

When buying corn snake you need find out

Age of maize
Is it stable on its own?
What does maize eat (mouse, hamster. .. size)?
How exactly did the baby eat (from tweezers to hiding at night...)?
How many times and how did you eat (if a baby)?
Accustomed to thawed food?
When did the baby last eat?

If maize is a few years old weeks stably eats on its own, then, subject to proper maintenance even a beginner has no problems.

If the baby has only eaten once on his own, then it is still very risky for a beginner to take such babies. It doesn't mean baby She is already eating on her own.

And remember, the more you ask about what and how the corn snake eats, the fewer nutritional problems will arise in further.

Important! After moving the snake to a new house (and even a new terrarium), it should not be disturbed for several days, and you can feed it no earlier than after two or three days. The maize snake of any age must get used to the new environment. Stress can cause the snake to stop eating, and worse, regurgitate.

Spitting is highly undesirable for any snake and can lead to further problems or even death of the animal.

Defrost feeding

they refuse the mouse and eat only a live mouse. Some refuse for a long time eat thawed food.

If maize does not eat defrosted try tear (cut) the skin of the KO to increase the smell. Leave KO for a while time with the snake, maybe she needs time or some specific conditions.

All snakes prefer a certain way of eating, e.g. etc.

When the snake must not be disturbed

After feeding the snake, in no case do not disturb it, and even more so do not pick up, remember, this can lead to such adverse effects, such as burping of feed.

When a snake is molting, it must not be disturbed either. At the same time, during molting, some animals become inactive and lethargic, while others, on the contrary, become aggressive and nervous.

Spit

If this happens, do not disturb the pet and pause feeding for at least 10 days for snakes of any age. After a break, start feeding the snake half as much food as usual.

Why won't the corn snake eat?

The reasons for refusing to eat can be different and only understanding the reason, you can answer the question of how to feed.

Stress . Maybe in a new environment (moving to a new house, to a new terrarium) or after some of your manipulations. In this case, you should feed the snake on the second or third day, so that she gets used to it, calms down, in no case before.

Not hungry. Feed too often. Overfeeding and "acceleration" of growth snakes inevitably leads to obesity of varying degrees, even in young individuals. And this in turn leads to health problems and even death of the animal.

Constipation. You can help the animal to make a mistake - let it swim in a warm water. If this does not help and constipation for a long time, then you need to contact your veterinarian, to understand the causes and eliminate them.

Never ate by myself. It happens that small maize are not fed from birth on one's own. In this case, you need to try different KOs and different methods. feeding and only if nothing helped, then feed the baby forcibly. Feed maize baby should definitely be entrusted to a veterinarian or an experienced terrariumist. It happens that you have to "shove" small corn several times before they start eating on their own.

Molting snake. The snake has already begun the process of molting, but it is not noticeable yet. At some snakes only by their blue eyes can be seen that they are in molt, although the process starts earlier.

Poor conditions of detention . For example, there is no temperature difference or insufficient heating in a warm corner The low temperature leads to a decrease in the snake's appetite and activity of the digestive processes.

Sexual behavior and reproduction. Male over 2 years old (sometimes earlier) from February to April maybe in a race. Refusals from food can be long - up to several months.

The female may be pregnant. Pregnant females often lie in a warm corner and may refuse food throughout pregnancy until masonry. But offer KO is a must for a pregnant female.

Females can lay unfertilized (fatty) eggs even without mating with a male. If the snake has not laid fatty eggs, it “dissolves” them and feeds on it for some time.

Unusual KO. Snakes may refuse an unfamiliar prey item. If a, for example, a snake has always eaten mice, then a chicken may be abandoned. snake can refuse stale KO, and that's good, otherwise there may be problems health and even death.

Disease. In this case, you should definitely contact your veterinarian and treat the animal.

How to feed the corn snake

If you cannot find a suitable KO for your pet, remember that maize in good shape can live without food.

How to feed maize:

Wait a few days, the snake may shed or become cloudy. In this case, feed the snake after the molt.
Place shelters in warm and cool corners, the snake may be refusing to eat due to stress.
Try another KO of a suitable size (hamster, quail, chicken). “Feed” an unusual KO with a familiar smell. For example, put the mouse for some time to the jungarik.
Cut the skin of the thawed KO in several places to smell.
Try to give a live CO. There are individuals who refuse to eat defrosting.
If maize is already an adult, older than 2 years, then you can not feed it for a month and offer food after a hunger strike.
The snake can be gently wintered at a temperature of 18-20 degrees for 3-4 weeks. When the temperature returns to normal - feed.
Small maize to leave naked in a shelter for the night.
If the animal is losing weight, shedding continuously, has sores in the mouth or other symptoms, it is necessary to consult a veterinarian and treat the animal first.
Pregnant females refuse to eat at the end of the term, they are not able to digest food.

If the corn hasn't eaten, offer KO again in a week. Be sure to check the conditions of detention: temperature, availability of clean water, put opaque shelters in different temperature zones.

Overfeeding

The basic rule of feeding snakes is that it is better to slightly underfeed than to rush to increase KO, overfeed and get problems in the form of burping, loss of pet health (obesity, disruption of internal organs) or even death of the animal.

How to care for a corn snake?

Natalia | June 8, 2021 | Veterinary | No comments

Taking its name from the corn granaries, which attracted mice and later these predators, the corn snake is an excellent house snake.

How does the corn snake behave?

Generally docile, relatively easy to care for and does not grow very large; this is a great choice, especially for beginner snake owners. However, these reptiles are also a favorite of even experienced owners due to the many beautiful colors and patterns that have been bred in captivity. Closely related to rat snakes , Corn snakes are sometimes referred to as red rat snakes. They are native to the southeastern United States, mostly land-dwelling, and active mostly at dusk and dawn.

How big does a corn snake grow?

ADULT SIZE: 90 to 150 cm long; sometimes up to 180 cm long

How long does a corn snake live?

LIFE EXPECTANCY: 15 to 20 years

Corn snake behavior and temperament

These reserved snakes allow people to handle them and are generally docile. But when they feel threatened, especially in the wild, they can vibrate their tails as a defense mechanism, similar to rattlesnakes.

Like most snakes, corn and rat snakes are consummate escapers. They will push the lid with their nose looking for weak spots and tiny holes, so the fit of the lid is very important. If the snake gets out of the cage, it may get lost or injured. An escaped snake can also scare your guests.

Corn snake housing

The 75 liter glass tank is a large housing for the corn snake. It is important to use a securely closing lid that can be clamped from above.

Corn snakes need to hide to feel safe. Provide a hidden box (any closed container, such as an overturned cardboard box) large enough for the snake to curl up in; if it is too big, the snake will not feel safe. Pieces of bark can also provide a hiding place for your snake if they are on a substrate that allows them to hide under the bark. Ideally, there should be a place to hide in both the cooler and warmer part of the hull. Also provide a forked branch for climbing.

Temperature control for corn snake

Keeping your corn snake at the correct temperature is vital. An overhead incandescent light is the preferred heating method, but corn snakes come from temperate climates so they don't need tropical temperatures. Keep the ambient temperature between 26.7 and 29 C. The bathing area should be between 29 and 31 C. At night, the temperature should only drop to 24 C. Heating pads or heat tape can be used under the tank, but they can make it difficult to see how much case heats up, so use thermometers inside.

Humidity for corn snakes

Fortunately, corn snakes prefer the humidity of a normal household. 40 to 50 percent is a good range for ambient air in the hull, up to 60 percent will promote healthy shedding. Monitor your corn snake enclosure with a hygrometer, especially during the drier winter months; you may need to spray the tank more frequently or refill the evaporative water tank.

Corn Snake Substrate

These snakes love to burrow and hide, so using a layer of loose substrate (floor lining) at the bottom of the enclosure is key. A variety of materials can be used as the bottom layer of the case. Newspaper without ink is a utilitarian choice, as it is very easy to clean, but its caged appearance leaves a lot to be desired. It is possible to use indoor/outdoor carpeting and if you cut two pieces, you can rotate them, replacing the clean one with the dirty one while cleaning; Wash and dry contaminated product thoroughly before use.

Aspen shavings can be used for the top layer. Shavings stained with feces can simply be scooped out; if necessary, clean and freshen the chips. Move the snake to a separate feeding container to avoid accidentally swallowing the chips. Do not use pine or cedar shavings because the aromatic oils can cause irritation and breathing problems for your pet reptile.

Sand, soil and corn cobs are also not suitable substrates for corn snakes.

Food and water for the corn snake

Corn snakes are carnivores. In the wild, they follow their prey primarily by smell rather than by sight. Captive corn snakes should be fed pre-killed frozen mice that have been properly thawed. 2 The young are taken out to be fed mice on the little finger, and the size of the prey should be increased as the snake grows. The prey can be both wide and slightly wider than the snake's head.

Feed growing snakes twice a week; Adults only need to be fed one suitably sized prey each week or 10 days. Your snake's appetite may decrease around the time of shedding, so reduce your feeding frequency if your snake is about to shed, as evidenced by cloudy eyes and dull, cloudy skin.

Because corn snakes drink water by soaking it up through their mouths, a water bowl is also needed; It is important to keep the water clean. Snakes often use water to help them defecate; when this happens, empty the dishes and immediately wash and refill them. A heavy, shallow dish a few inches in diameter is a good source of water. You may even find your snake soaking into the dish, especially in front of a shed. Use non-chlorinated water whenever possible.

General health and behavior problems

Mouth rot or infectious stomatitis is a bacterial infection of the mouth that often causes blisters of saliva and inflammation in and around the mouth. If left untreated, this ailment can cause infection in the bones and the snake's teeth can be lost. A toothless snake will not be able to eat properly.

Like most snake species, corn snakes are susceptible to fungal diseases and respiratory infections. A fungal infection is characterized by a change in skin color.