How to feed a baby ball python frozen mice

Feeding Snakes Frozen Mice and Other Prey

Lianne McLeod, DVM

Lianne McLeod, DVM, is a small animal and exotic pet expert with over a decade of experience writing about veterinary care. After caring for animals in her veterinarian practice, Lianne went on to study biology and research water quality and chronic disease at the University of Saskatchewan.

Learn more about The Spruce Pets' Editorial Process

Updated on 06/28/21

Fact checked by

Cherisse Harris

Fact checked by Cherisse Harris

A meticulous researcher and editor with 17 years of fact-checking experience, Cherisse Harris reviews articles at The Spruce Pets for factual accuracy and consistency. She has fact-checked articles for multiple publications, including InStyle Magazine, Refinery29, The New York Times, Seventeen, and Details.

Learn more about The Spruce Pets' Editorial Process

John Macgregor / Getty Images/

Occasionally snake owners encounter feeding problems with their pet snakes. Some snakes, like ball pythons, are known to not want to eat but feeding problems can occur with any kind of snake.

The most common feeding problem owners have is when their snake doesn't want to strike and eat pre-killed food items like mice and rats. Feeding pre-killed prey, both the fresh or previously frozen kinds, is recommended for the safety of the snake but sometimes snakes are reluctant to take pre-killed prey. This is especially true if the snake was wild-caught or is being offered a prey item it has never eaten before. Thankfully, there are several ways you can try to entice a reluctant snake to take a frozen mouse or another pre-killed prey item. Some tried and true methods to get your snake to eat include:

Warm the Prey

Make sure the frozen mouse (or another pre-killed prey item) is warmed up until it is at least room temperature. Thaw frozen prey in a bag in the refrigerator or by floating it in cold water and then placing it in warm water just before feeding it to your snake to warm it up. Never use the microwave to thaw frozen prey. Burns to your snake may result due to uneven heating of the prey or your prey may explode in the microwave during the process of heating and no one wants to clean that up.

Use Feeding Forceps

Use feeding forceps and not your hand to present the thawed and warmed prey to your snake. The forceps will help keep your snake from associating your hand with food. The forceps will also allow you to wiggle the prey item to mimic live motion which often elicits a strike from the snake.

Enhance the Scent

Dip the thawed prey in sodium-free chicken broth. The scent of chicken broth appeals to some snakes and may encourage them to strike.

Make It Familiar

If you are attempting to feed your snake a new kind of food, rub the new prey item with another favorite food that your snake is familiar with. For example, if your snake likes chicks but won't take mice, rub a chick on a pre-killed mouse and then attempt to feed it to your snake. The familiar scent of a favorite food may trick the snake into taking the new item.

Try a Different Color

Try a different color of the prey item if there are some available. If you have already tried a white mouse without success, try a multi-colored or dark-colored mouse since some snakes seem to balk at albino mice.

Cut It Open

Although it seems a little gross, the scent of brain matter is particularly effective at stimulating the feeding response in pet snakes. Therefore, exposing the prey's brain, or at the very least cutting the prey open to expose blood, may help in getting your snake to eat it.

Use a Special Enclosure

Place your snake in a small enclosure that is used only during feeding time. This should be in a quiet place. Give your snake some privacy while it feeds.

Adjust the Feeding Time

Feed your snake at night and cover the tank. You can also provide a dark hide box for your snake since some prefer to eat in a secluded spot.

Try Different Sized Prey

Try a different size of prey. Maybe your snake would prefer it's prey to be slightly smaller or larger than what you are already offering. Pinkies and fuzzies are good small prey options.

Don't Feed During a Shed

Make sure your snake isn't about to shed. If your snake's skin appears lighter or more dull than usual and its eyes are a milky blue than they may be about to shed. Most snakes that are about to, or actively, shedding will not eat.

Keep Your Snake Warm

Check the temperatures in your snake's enclosure. If your snake is too cold it's metabolism will slow down and it may not eat.

Article Sources

The Spruce Pets uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy.

Your Pet Snake’s Diet: Dead or Alive? University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine.

How To Feed A Ball Python Frozen Mice (Diet Guide)

Are you interested in learning more about what ball pythons eat to survive?

Are you trying to decide between feeding your ball python live prey or frozen mice?

Feeding your snake frozen mice is a great alternative to live prey, but when you are trying it for the first time, you might wonder:

How Do I Feed A Ball Python Frozen Mice?

When feeding your ball python frozen mice, please select the appropriate size, thaw the mouse, then, using tongs, wiggle it in the snake’s cage to entice the animal to eat. While some will not be interested initially, there are some tips and tricks to make frozen mice more appetizing.

Continue reading to learn precisely how to prepare frozen mice for your snake and the extra information on making this type of food source appealing to your snake.

Table of Contents

How To Feed A Ball Python Frozen Mice

Feeding a ball python frozen rodents may not appeal to their instincts to strike and eat prey, but it is a safe alternative.

Frozen mice are readily available and easy enough to find for pet owners.

You need to take a few steps to feed these frozen mice to your snake properly.

Here we will break down what you need to know for proper feeding.

Selecting The Right Size

When feeding your ball snake, it is vital to give them the proper size feeders.

A ball python should be fed mice no larger than the diameter at the largest part of their body.

If the food is larger, the snake might not even attempt to eat what you put in front of them.

They also risk having the mouse becoming lodged in their mouth or esophagus, or they could also regurgitate the animal.

This can cause a lot of pain and even injuries to your ball snake, so it is best to err on the side of caution and find a slightly smaller bit of food than going for larger.

Frozen pinkies and fuzzies are available if your snake is young or small.

Pinkies are very young mice aged about five days old, getting their name from their appearance.

They are without fur and appear pink.

Fuzzies are anywhere from five days to two weeks old and have just begun to get a slight fuzz on their bodies where the fur is beginning.

There is varying size of frozen mice available, so make sure you are getting the right choice for your ball python.

Thawing The Frozen Mouse

You can’t just throw a frozen mouse in your ball python’s tank direct from the freezer.

First, you will need to bring it to a warm temperature.

To thaw out the meal, allow it to defrost in a baggie in your refrigerator.

Or float the mouse in a bag in cold water until it is no longer frozen.

If you go with this route, it usually will take about 30 minutes in the cold water to thaw, but if after 30 minutes it is not, replace the cold water and let the baggie with the mouse sit for another 30 minutes.

Follow this up by putting the baggie in warm water, not boiling, for 10 to 20 minutes.

We do this because you do not want the mouse to be too cold since snakes are cold-blooded, and the cold mouse will slow down digestion.

It is not recommended to heat the mouse in the microwave or oven or by placing it in boiling water.

You not only risk spoiling the meat by doing any of these things, but you could also damage your snake if it eats it.

Feeding Your Snake With Tongs

Once your mouse is no longer frozen and slightly warm (about 90° to 95° degrees Fahrenheit (32° – 35° C) is ideal), take a pair of tongs or forceps and hold the mouse in the tank to give to your snake.

This is a great way to present the meal to your snake without associating your fingers with food.

Not associating your fingers with food will save you some pain when you want to go to handle your snake.

With the tongs, you will also wriggle and move the mouse to mimic a live mouse.

Feeding Tongs 15" 2 Pcs Super Thick Stainless Steel Forceps Curved and Straight

Check Price on Amazon

Deals on Chewy

We earn a commission if you click this link and make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

How To Make A Frozen Mouse Appealing

So you have tried wiggling and moving the mouse around with the tongs, and your snake still isn’t going for it.

This isn’t uncommon, as a dead animal will not be as enticing to your ball python as live prey.

There are plenty of things to make this type of food more appealing.

While it might not seem like a big deal, the mouse’s color can dissuade the snake from eating it.

White mice are not found in your snake’s natural habitat, so if a white mouse doesn’t work, try to find a brown, grey, or just dark-colored mouse.

Enhance the scent of the mouse by dipping it in chicken broth.

This is a great way to appeal to some snakes, and you might see yours make a move to eat the thawed prey.

Going off the scent, make attempts to associate the mouse with a food you know your snake already likes.

This is a trick to try when you are introducing any new food.

Rub the food you know they like on the new food, in a way tricking your snake into believing it will be something like what they already know and want.

The next trick is a little gross, so if you are squeamish, this might not be the option for you.

Sometimes a snake will react and try to eat the prey if they smell blood, and to do so, cut open the mouse and expose their innards to the ball python in its cage.

They are especially attracted to brain matter, so expose this using a pair of pliers.

If you find these things are working, try transferring your ball python to a separate cage just for feeding times.

This should be a quiet place where your snake can feel safe and have some privacy when eating.

It could be a covered plastic bin, a glass or plastic tank, or another type of secure enclosure.

When you transfer your ball python to this other enclosure every time, they will pick up on the signal and realize it is time to eat.

It would help if you also tried to reduce your body movements when feeding your snake, as you could cause fear and stress to the animal.

Don’t get discouraged if you don’t have instant success.

This is a process requiring patience and persistence.

With any animal, finding what works for your ball python is likely to require some trial and error, and what works for one snake might not work for another.

Try these tips to help you figure out what works best for your ball python.

Why Feed My Ball Python Frozen Mice?

Feeding your pet snake frozen prey is a great way to keep your ball python from getting injured.

When you introduce live prey into their habitat, you are appealing to their instincts, but you also open the snake up to the opportunity to sustain some real injuries.

A live mouse or rat will be fighting for their lives and, in the struggle, can claw, scratch, or bite your snake.

These injuries can become infected or make your snake more susceptible to disease.

If you are worried about the risk of live prey, definitely opt for frozen.

If you have a picky eater, you might have to get a little creative, but frozen prey offers good nutrition with little risk.

Frozen Mice Combo Pack of 50 Small & Large Pinkies

Humane
Frozen
Fresh

Check Price on Amazon

Deals on Chewy

We earn a commission if you click this link and make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

Other Reasons My Ball Python Won’t Eat?

Throughout the article, we have touched on this one a bit, but there are other reasons your snake might not be going for the frozen mice.

When they are ready to shed, a ball python will lose their appetite.

This is an instinct from the wild because, during this time, their eyesight is very poor.

They don’t want to run the risk of becoming someone else’s meal while hunting for their own.

If you have tried everything to get your snake to eat and they don’t, you might contact your veterinarian.

An underlying health issue could be coming into play and ruining your ball python’s appetite.

Be sure you find a vet specializing in reptiles to ensure you are getting the best care for your pet.

Conclusion

Feeding your ball python frozen prey is an excellent source of nutrition without the dangers of being bitten, clawed, or scratched.

There is a bit of a learning curve with this style of food, and if your snake is a picky eater, you might have to try a few tricks to get them interested.

We hope this article has given you some good information on how to feed frozen mice to your ball python.

If you liked this post check out our other one on the best ball python names.

how to feed your snake frozen mice and rats

Sometimes snake owners have problems feeding their pet snakes. Some snakes, such as pythons, are known to be reluctant to eat, but any snake species can have feeding problems.

The most common feeding problem for owners is when their snake does not want to attack and eat pre-killed animals such as mice and rats. Feeding pre-killed prey, both fresh and previously frozen, is recommended for the safety of the snake, but sometimes snakes are reluctant to take pre-killed prey.

This is especially pronounced if the snake has been caught in the wild or is offered prey that it has never eaten before. Fortunately, there are several ways to get a reluctant snake to take a frozen mouse or other prey.

About snakes: What snakes eat at home

Here are some tried and tested methods to get your snake to eat: become at least room temperature. Thaw frozen prey in a bag in the refrigerator or place it in cold water and then place it in warm water just before feeding it to keep it warm.

Never use a microwave oven to thaw frozen prey. Snake burns can be caused by uneven heating of the prey, or your prey could explode in the microwave during heating and no one will want to clean it up.

Use feeding tongs

Use feeding tongs, not your hand, to present thawed and warm prey to your snake. The tongs will help the snake not bind your hand to the food. The tongs will also allow you to wiggle your prey, mimicking the lively movement that a snake often swipes.

Enhance flavor

Dip defrosted prey in sodium-free chicken broth. Some snakes are attracted to the smell of chicken broth, which may encourage them to swallow their prey.

Make Food Familiar

If you are trying to feed your snake a new food, rub the new prey with another favorite food that your snake is familiar with. For example, if your snake loves chickens but doesn't want to take mice, rub the chicken with a pre-killed mouse and then try to feed it to your snake. The familiar smell of a favorite food can trick a snake into taking on a new item.

Try a different color of the food

Try a different color of the prey, if available. If you've already tried a white mouse without success, try a multi-colored or dark mouse, as some snakes seem to resist albino mice.

Cut food

Although it seems a little harsh, the scent of the brain matter is especially effective in stimulating the feeding response in pet snakes. So exposing the victim's brain, or at least cutting it open to expose blood, can help your snake eat it.

Try other prey

If your snake doesn't want mice or rats, try gerbils. Although this can be expensive, some snakes that do not eat pre-killed mice will happily accept pre-killed gerbils.

You can also try hamsters or other rodents as prey, as long as you still stick to animals of the right size.

Use a dedicated aviary

Place the snake in a small aviary that is only used for feeding. It must be in a quiet place. Give the snake some privacy while it eats.

Adjust the feeding time

Feed the snake at night and cover the terrarium. You can also provide your snake with a dark box, as some prefer to eat in a secluded area.

Try different size prey

Try different size prey. Perhaps your snake would prefer a slightly smaller or larger prey than what you already offer. Newborn and young mice are good options for small prey.

Do not feed during shedding

Make sure your snake is not going to shed its skin. If your snake's skin appears lighter or duller than usual and its eyes are milky blue, the snake may be ready to shed its skin. Most snakes that are about to shed or actively shed do not eat.

Keep your snake warm

Check the temperature in your snake's enclosure. If your snake is too cold, its metabolism will slow down and it may stop eating.

Royal python: maintenance, care, feeding, diseases

General information

Today, the royal python is one of the most popular snakes for lovers of exotic pets. Under natural conditions, this species of snake lives in the western part of Africa. Its favorite habitat is savannas and open forests near water, in which snakes escape from the heat, but still they spend most of their time in holes. The royal python is active in the evening and at night, it is then that he hunts birds, lizards, and small mammals.

In captivity with good care, royal pythons feel quite comfortable, they are not very picky. They can bite, but this is more of a rarity than a common occurrence, since this form of protection is resorted to only in emergency cases, usually folded into a tight ball - a ball, for which the royal python is also called the "ball python".

Life expectancy: in the wild - 10 years, at home they live up to 20-30 years.

Sexual maturity - at the age of 3-5 years.

Benefits

one of the smallest of the pythons;
has a beautiful coloration;
is unpretentious in content;
is non-aggressive, peaceful.

Disadvantages

pythons are predominantly nocturnal animals, so they spend most of the day in shelters.

Description

The royal python has a muscular body, its diameter is from 10 to 15 cm, on the head there is a rather large spot in the form of a triangle, there are lateral oculotemporal stripes, a yellow stripe is located between them. The color is dominated by black, beige and yellow, the stripes can be varied, go on the sides. Thanks to its bright extraordinary color, this type of python got its name - royal.

Like many snakes, the king python has a long forked tongue. Females differ from males in size, they are somewhat longer - from 1.2 to 1.8 m, and males - 1 m. Pythons grow quickly, in the first three years of life they grow 30 cm annually.

The Royal Python is one of those easy-to-keep pythons that will not be difficult for you to care for. They need a spacious glass or plastic terrarium, at a young age (until they grow up to 90 cm) they can be kept in a 35-liter terrarium, and then, when they grow up, it is worth increasing their place of residence. The perimeter of their "apartment" should exceed the length of the residents at least twice, so that there is where to turn around.

A prerequisite for keeping this snake at home is the presence of a cover for the terrarium, because you do not want your pet to go for a walk around the room.