What do you feed a wild baby dove

Baby Mourning Doves: Caring for and Feeding Abandoned Dove Babies

Sharing is caring!

36 shares

You step outside to get the mail and you find a baby bird in your driveway—what do you do? Should you leave it, rescue it, try and put it back in its nest?

It can be nerve-wracking finding a baby bird on the ground and wondering what the best option is, especially since not all species can be treated the same.

Here are a few tips to prepare you for that day:

Step 1: don’t panic

Step 2: read this article

Here, you’ll learn all about baby Mourning Doves and how to care and feed them if they’re abandoned. It’ll be just a little more information in your pocket, should you ever be in this situation.

Let’s dive in!

Baby Mourning Doves are called squabs or chicks.

When they are just hatchlings and a few days old, their bodies are covered in patchy, yellowish down. The down is very thin and you can still see their naked bodies. Their bills are dark, as well as their faces, and their eyes will be closed. At this point, they are only a few inches long.

Around 7-ish days, the squab’s eyes will be open and will be dark. They also will have started to get in some pin feathers. These look just like the shaft of a feather without the barbs. They will lay in a relatively ordered fashion. You’ll also still see the scraggly, yellowish down poking up around the pin feathers, which makes the nestling look pretty frazzled and messy! They will have almost doubled in weight and size.

Around 12 days, the Mourning dove will be a fully feathered fluffball. It’s feathers will be a slaty brown color. They will have grown so much that they will be larger than your palm. At this size and age, the babies will be about ready to leave the nest and take flight for the first time!

What do baby mourning doves eat?

Unlike many other baby birds, little doves don’t gape—the mouth wide open, begging for food behavior. When they’re hungry they will root around. The parents provide “crop milk” to their babies.

Crop milk (also known as pigeon milk) is a semi-solid excretion that is made by the sloughing of fluid-filled cells from the lining of the crop.

The crop is a thin-walled, sac-like food-storage chamber that extends off the esophagus and is normally part of the digestive system. Food can be stored here quickly while the bird is foraging in the open and allows the bird to go back into a secluded area to digest. Most birds have crops, but not all make crop milk.

As said before, the crop is normally part of the digestive system, but it shifts its function to milk production just a day or two prior to the eggs’ hatching. This is believed to be caused by hormonal changes. During that time, the parents may stop eating entirely so there is no seed in the crop. Brand new hatchlings aren’t able to digest seed yet, so this is for the better! After several days of feeding crop milk to the babies, the hormone levels taper off and the crop no longer produces as much milk. By this time, the squabs are able to digest regurgitated seeds from mom and dad.

Crop milk is nutrient-dense and contains more protein and fats than human or cow milk. It also has immune-building properties with antioxidants and antibodies from the parent.

Both parents can produce crop milk, so both are able to feed their babies. This is done by opening their mouths wide and allowing the squab to stick their little heads in and suck it up through their bills like a straw. This is important to keep in mind if having to hand feed baby doves, as sucking is their natural instinct and the safest way for them to eat.

Crop milk substitute

If you find a squab that needs rescuing (we’ll talk about how to determine this in the next section) chances are you’re going to need to make a homemade crop milk substitute or purchase a formula.

A great formula substitute is RoudyBush Squab diet. Yes—there are pictures of parrots on it. Don’t worry, it can be used for baby doves, too.

Roudybush Squab Diet For Birds, 1-Pound

No Added Sugars Or Colors
100-Percent Edible And No Animal By Products
Scientifically Formulated

Last update on 2023-04-18 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

The only potential issue with this is it will need to be ordered online and might take a day or two to arrive. If it’s likely you’ll be hand-rearing the baby for a few weeks, this is a good option.

Another substitute is Kaytee Exact Handfeeding Formula which is available at pet stores. Some reviewers say this formula doesn’t offer the babies as well of a nutritional panel as RoudyBush, and the birds are often below the curve for weight. If it’s a matter of life or death for a squab, this is better than nothing.

A last option if you don’t have access to a pet store and need it immediately is homemade formula using baby cereal. Make it more runny if the baby is wee little and gradually thicken it up as they get bigger. A good test is to see how quickly their crop empties. If it empties too quickly, start to thicken it up.

How often do baby mourning doves need feeding?

Brand new babies will need to be fed more often than older squabs. The younger doves will also eat formula that is more watered down. All feedings should occur within a 12-hour span.

0-4 days old: 5 feedings per day
5-7 days old: 4 feedings per day
8-14 days old: 3 feedings per day
Fledgling: seeds

The safest way to feed a baby dove is by pouring the formula onto a tablespoon and letting them suck it up. Remember earlier when I said to keep their straw-sucking instincts in mind? If food is poured into their mouths, they may aspirate by trying to suck while you’re pouring or dropping it in. So it’s best to let them take the lead and let them slurp it up themselves!

Does the baby mourning dove need to be rescued?

A few different factors go into the response to this situation.

The first step in deciding if a baby dove needs rescued is by determining what stage of growth it’s in. The second is analyzing what the situation is while keeping its growth stage in mind. For example, a 2-day old baby found in the driveway vs a 14 day old found in the driveway will have different solutions!

Baby dove growth stages

Stage 1: unfeathered

Unfeathered babies are roughly 0-6 days old. This early in the brooding stage, it’s unusual to find babies out of the nest, but not impossible.

One reason a baby might be out is if the entire nest was blown over or knocked down. Wind, predators, or weather can all knock a nest loose.

Babies can also be found on the ground if the parents perceive it to be defective in some way and decide to remove it from the nest.

Babies this young cannot be left on the ground!

At this point in their life, they are too young and too naked to keep themselves warm. If a baby is found, it needs to be warmed up immediately. This can be done using a heating pad on the low setting or using electronics that heat up and are warm to the touch, such as laptops or game systems. A little heat goes a long way for them, and this is the first priority.

While the baby is warming up, see if the nest can be located. If the nest turns out to be blown over, see if it can be put back securely so it won’t fall again. If it can’t, find a new place for it that isn’t entirely out in the open and won’t get drenched when it rains.

Once the baby warms up, put it back in the nest and watch for the parents to come back to it. If they do, you’re good to go. If not, the baby might need hand-reared.

If the baby you find is not from a blown over nest and was kicked out by its parents, it will need to be hand-reared with a crop milk substitute, at least for a few days. After a few days of feeding, put it back in the nest and see if the parents take care of it. If they kick it out again, it will need hand-reared until it’s old enough to survive on its own.

If it turns out that you have to hand-rear the baby for a while, a makeshift nest box will be needed with either a fake nest inside or nesting material like straw. A heat lamp is the best option to keep the baby warm, so your heating pad doesn’t get dirty.

Stage two: partially feathered

Partially feathered babies are roughly 7 days old to fledging age (12-15 days old).

At this age the babies are far enough along that the parents probably didn’t kick them out, so if a baby is found on the ground, it’s almost always from nest failure. This is actually a good thing because there’s a better chance the parents will take back over when the nest is fixed.

As with the younger babies, get these squabs warmed up. Once they’re warm, investigate the nest situation. It either fell in a storm or broke apart because it was poorly constructed.

If it only fell, try and secure it as mentioned before. If the nest is found to be broken or falling apart, a new one will be needed. You can buy fake nests from a craft store, or make one. Don’t be afraid to make them, there are online tutorials to show you how!

Once the old or new nest is up, put the baby inside and wait for the parents to come. If they don’t come by nightfall, bring the baby in for the night and then return them again in the morning. If the parents still don’t come back, by the afternoon or evening, the baby will need to be hand-reared and kept in a nest box with heat.

Stage three: fully feathered

Fully feathered babies are fledgling age (12-15 days, give or take) and are nearly self-sufficient. If one of these babies is found on the ground, it doesn’t need to be returned to a nest. Actually, it’s highly possible that this baby just took its first flight from its nest to the ground!

Babies at this age are still being monitored from afar and fed by their parents. The best thing you can do for this little one is to leave it be. Of course, there are exceptions.

If the fledgling is in a high traffic area, like a driveway or close to a road or sidewalk, move it somewhere more relaxed. Don’t move it across town, because the parents are still caring for it, just move it a few feet away to safety.

If the fledgling doesn’t try to run away from you when you approach it and it appears cold to the touch and lethargic, it might not be getting fed by mom and dad. You can gently palpate the crop to feel if there’s food inside. If there is, the bird might have an injury or may be sick, in which case it’s best to call a wildlife rehabilitator. If there isn’t anything in the crop, the bird might just need a meal. Some mashed bird seed might help it out.

In conclusion

Helping out a baby bird can seem daunting, but with the right information, you can do it safely and confidently. If you’re still unsure, you can always call a rehabilitation center to see if they can take the baby in!

Also check out: Gift Ideas for bird watchers guide.

Credits

Chaifetz, T. (2017, September 26). How to Determine the Age of a Mourning Dove Hatchling. Retrieved 2020, from https://animals.mom.me/how-to-determine-the-age-of-a-mourning-dove-hatchling-12452713.html

Ehrlich, P., Dobkin, D., & Wheye, D. (1988). Bird Milk. Retrieved 2020, from https://web.stanford.edu/group/stanfordbirds/text/essays/Bird_Milk.html

Mayntz, M. (2019). Do Birds Produce Milk for Their Young? Retrieved 2020, from https://www.thespruce.com/glossary-definition-of-crop-milk-385209

Mihaylo, K. (2017, August 11). How to Care for a Baby Mourning Dove. Retrieved 2020, from https://animals.mom.me/care-baby-mourning-dove-6968.html

Sebastiani, J. (2012, April 26). Baby Birds: A Dove Story. Retrieved 2020, from http://blog.delawarenaturesociety.org/2011/11/10/baby-birds-a-dove-story/

White, H. (2014). Mourning Dove. Retrieved 2020, from http://www.diamonddove.info/bird13%20Mourning.htm

Sharing is caring!

36 shares

What Can I Feed Orphan Baby Wild Doves & Pigeons? – Ron Hines' Vetspace – 2nd Chance – The Animal Health Website

Ron Hines DVM PhD

Do Doves Need Grit?

All Of Dr. Hines’ Other Wildlife Rehab Articles

I love doves – their personality and their graceful beauty. Quite a few have come through my hands over the years. That has been primarily due to their poor nest building abilities. Once a few sticks have been carelessly crossed, doves and pigeons consider the job done.

Doves and pigeons are one of the few groups of birds that you are likely to encounter in the USA, Canada or Europe that require a very specialized diet. While other baby birds are simply present insects and perhaps some of their parent’s adult food by their parents, doves and pigeons (columbine birds) that are raising offspring transform their crop into a “milk” producing organ. Only flamingos, penguins and parrots do something similar. (read here)

Lest you take the word “milk” literally, cow or goat milk is NOT a suitable food for doves or pigeons because they both contain too much lactose sugar (milk sugar) that doves and pigeons cannot digest. This sugar ferments in their digestive tracts causing bloat, diarrhea and respiratory distress that eventually leads to their death.

The percentage constituents of dove milk are unknown. But pigeon milk, which is likely to be very similar, is about 70% water. Of the remaining solids in it, about 53-58% is protein and 34-35% is fat. Very little carbohydrates (including sugars) are present. The actual percentages of the contents of the milks of all species of animals never remains constant. It varies over time. Factors like the time of day, the diet consumed by the parents, the number of offspring being fed and the current age of the offspring all factor into its composition. Luckily, the infant animals of all species have been given the flexibility to deal with these variations. Of course, natural pigeon/dove milk also contains all the essential vitamins and trace minerals that the babies require. As the baby doves or pigeons mature, partially digested grains are regurgitated into this mix as well.

If you have occasion to raise orphan doves or pigeons, there are many recipes that have raised them quite successfully. For fat content, many recipes contain Nutrical® and/or olive or vegetable oils. For protein some contain peas, hemp powder, or vegan soy products. Varying amounts of one or another human or animal vitamin supplement as well as digestive enzymes are often thrown in the pot for good measure. A pinch of this, a smidgen of that – God bless Nature for being so flexible.

One commonly used recipe is called MAC Milk:

Many have found that commercial parrot-raising formulas like Exact® work quite well for doves. Others in Europe use the Psittacus Catalonia Wildiet® formula.

My Technique:

Every year I feed out baby doves and pigeons with a recipe I have prepared at home for many years. I chose the ingredients based on what I know about avian nutrition, on products that are are safe, economical and readily available to almost anyone on short notice. This formula has worked well for me and I hope it will work well for you too:

This oversize coffee cup of mine comfortably holds 1.5 measuring cups of coffee:

1) Pour 1.25 measuring cups of dry instant oatmeal into the empty cup.

2) To the oatmeal, add 1 cup of shaken Silk® unsweetened organic soy milk that has been microwaved for 30 seconds. Unsweetened, non-flavored Silk® milk adds protein and, as importantly, calcium.

3) Mix them together well with a spoon and microwave the mixture for 1 minute or as you would a cup of coffee.

4) Once the oatmeal and soy milk have cooled, add the contents of 2 large whole eggs and mix very well. Never microwave once the eggs have been added because the mixture will become lumpy and unusable. Although raw eggs contain avidin which can inactivate a vitamin, biotin, this has never caused a problem for me when raising doves and pigeons. Dove eggs themselves contain avidin.

As the birds reach maturity, reduced the number of eggs used to one per cup. Oatmeal is deficient in Vitamin D3. Egg yolk is a good sources of vitamin D3 and the egg whites are an additional source of balanced protein.

5) Mix well with a spoon until homogeneous.

6) Top off to a comfortable height with Silk® soy milk. Silk® soy milk has a short refrigerator shelf life. When I have only a few doves to feed, I freeze the soy milk in smaller pouches and thaw them as needed.

Let the finished mix sit in your refrigerator for an hour or so until it become smooth and creamy and all small lumps have dissolved. Add a bit more soy milk if it is still too thick or if the babies are very young or if you suspect that they are mildly dehydrated as many fall-from the nest youngsters are. (read here) During the first week, the formula should drip from a syringe. As they get older, you can feed the formula thicker.

Bring your formula to room temp before feeding.

After feeding, the cup goes on the upper shelf of your refrigerator until it is time to bring it to room temperature again for another feeding.

I prepare no more than I will use up over a 48-hour period.

The most common cause of crop burn-throughs is feeding formulas that have been unevenly microwaved and contain hot spots. So, I always stir well after microwaving and after that, place a dab on my wrist to be sure the temperature is safe.

This mixture can be fed to baby doves and pigeons in many ways. I place it in a disposable pipette like the one above which is also seen in view in the topmost photo layouts. With this pipette, I place a bit of formula within the baby’s mouth with the bird allowed to swallow until its crop is moderately full. But never so overfilled and tight that it extends up the neck. If placing your finger against the bird’s neck causes regurgitation, you have given considerably too much at one feeding. Many smaller feeding, spaced throughout the day are always much safer than larger, infrequent feeding. Babies during their first week of life get fed four to five times. That is gradually reduced to three feeding and then to two. When the crop is empty and a little dent has formed at the collar, it is time to feed again. If the crop does not empty completely, you have not waited long enough or there is a health issue. After sundown, there is no need to feed.

Because I usually have a lot of mouths to feed and because baby birds can be messy, I often feed this formula to doves and pigeons using a 3ml disposable syringe and a catheter (tube feed). I cultivate contacts at local hospital supply departments and ask that intravenous catheter extension sets that have passed their FDA-mandated expiration date be set aside for me.

This is what they look like (you can enlarge all my images). You can see one laying next to the scissors in the third photo – before I have cut it to length and another already placed down the squab’s throat. Once your second finger feels the end of the catheter where the bird’s neck enters its body, slowly express the majority of the formula. As I slowly withdraw the catheter, I leave a teaser amount of formula near the rear of the bird’s mouth, so it gets some taste, pleasure and satisfaction out of the procedure. Over the 50+ years I have been tubing baby birds, I do not recall a single case where the tube entered the windpipe rather than the esophagus. Baby birds have a very strong reflex when they gape or feel food in their mouth that locks their larynx shut. So, a gently inserted tube going down wrong is quite unlikely. Nevertheless, watch an experienced aviculturist or wild bird rehabber tube feed before attempting to do so unassisted.

Temperature

Infant doves are very susceptible to digestive problems and slow crop emptying if they are kept at the wrong temperature. The white wing doves in the photo above are about two and a half days old. The larger one weighs 27.6 g the smaller one 25.0 g. At that age, their crop emptying time was best when they were maintained at 32 C (89.6 F) with a 100 watt incandescent bulb. At that temperature, these two dovlings took 75-80 breaths per minute. They began to pant and were hot to the touch when their surrounding temperature reached 37 C (98.6 F).

Those Were Some Of Your Dos What Are Some Of Your Don’ts?

Don’t put pressure on the full or partially full crop or the bird might regurgitate and inhale formula.

Don’t attempt to pass a catheter or pipette unless the bird’s head is in a star gazing position and the neck extended.

Don’t ever attempt to force a catheter or pipette downward that does not pass effortlessly.

Don’t ever attempt to feed a bird that is not bright and alert. They need subcutaneously administered fluids and glucose. You can read about that here.

Don’t neglect good sanitation. If it would not pass a health inspector’s muster in a restaurant setting, it’s not a fit in a bird kitchen either.

Don’t develop the habit of always feeding the dove or pigeon from the same side. That predisposes birds to developing scissor beak – a situation where the upper and lower beaks are misaligned. You can enlarge this photo of a hand-fed nightjar that developed this problem:

South Texas summers are quite hot and many of these infants are brought to me from far away. Most are dehydrated. After windy storms that blow them out of their nests and drench them, many are chilled despite the hot weather. Neither dehydrated babies nor chilled babies absorb nutrients well. In those babies, the natural wave like motion (peristalsis) that propels food down their digestive systems function poorly or not at all. Tube feeding babies suffering that condition actually speeds their demise because the formula just putrefies and ferments in their crop. As I already mentioned, markedly dehydrated babies need subcutaneous and intramuscular fluids. (read here) Mildly dehydrated babies need their first few feedings to be no more than warmed lactated ringers solution (LRS). They also need supplemental warmth if they are chilled. All wild creatures are masters at concealing stress, weakness and illness – until the very end. If the circumstances favor dehydration or chilling, just assume they are so, even if it is not outwardly apparent.

Once only small tufts of down remain on the head, I begin to place dishes of water and seed grains in the bird’s enclosures. A small rock (or marbles) placed in the water dishes (as seen in the second photo) help keep the birds from turning the water containers over when they perch on them. Since I give them no gravel to line their gizzards (gizzard gravel) at this age, I grind the grain mixture before I offer it to them. You can see the grinder I use in the photo above.

Be sure they are accepting mixed grains before you release them. A quality seed mix suggested for wild songbirds is fine. I add about a quarter amount of game bird (or turkey) starter crumbles to the mix. When whole seeds and grains are offered, I mix a bit of fine stone grit in with their food. The Hartz Gravel’n Grit™ is much too fine and goes right through them. So using well-washed masonry pea gravel from a building supply or river, I first remove the finer sand with a kitchen sieve. Then I remove the larger stones with a kitchen colander (with ~3/16″ holes). Then I wash and re-wash what is left and let it dry. Ground poultry oyster shell sifted in the same way works just as well and provides the birds an additional source of calcium. There is an inset image top right in the 4th photo at the top of this page of the proper size grit for a pigeon. The bird in that photo is already beginning to peck at whole grain.

My wife and I sometimes delay our release of doves beyond what my State allows. We don’t release late summer babies close to the Texas dove hunting season. Others that stay longer are birds that face medical issues and need care. In both cases, I find it wise to supplement a grain-based/seed diet with a small amount of ground dog chow prepared with the meat grinder as seen in the photo.

Why Do You Use A Human Oatmeal-Based Diet?

Of all the cereal grains, whole rolled oats are among the most nutritious. It is considerably more so than corn or wheat. Instant baby oatmeal also blends readily with warm water. And because oats are practically gluten-free, the formula is not as sticky as one based on wheat would be. The brand of instant oatmeal that I purchase is pre-fortified with vitamins and calcium that the all infants including doves and pigeons need. Because this product is marketed for children, liability issues dictate that the ingredients be of top quality. Products intended for human consumption are considerably more rigorously monitored for quality than diets intended for animals. For example, the FDA and USDA spend 24 times as much money regulating human versus animal food. Name brand producers like Gerber have the wherewithal to do in depth analyses of their products -batch by batch. That is something that small niche pet food manufacturers generally do not have.

You will see two brands of baby oatmeal cereal in the second photo at the top. At one time I purchased Parent’s Choice™ because I noticed that it was all whole grain oat flour whereas the Gerber’s was only partially whole grain oat flour. I suppose because of that, the protein content of the Parent’s Choice was listed as significantly higher. But I cannot say that I noticed any difference in how the doves grew up eating one versus the other.

Why Do You Add Raw Eggs To Your Diet?

1) Egg increase the formula’s fat/energy as well as its protein content

2) Raw egg albumin (the egg white) also makes my mix very “syringable”. Lumpy diets are hard to force through a standard syringe. The lecithin and albumin in eggs is also an excellent lubricant – so I do not need to use products like KY jelly on the syringe catheter when I am using one. I don’t feed soaked dog or cat chow to doves or pigeons. But when I soak and blend dry kibble to feed or tube other types of wildlife, I have to ream out the tip of the syringe with an 1/8” drill bit held in a vice-grip™ in order to get the slurry to pass through the tip freely.

3) Like natural pigeon milk, raw eggs contain important vitamins and antioxidants.

4) One of the most important thing that raw eggs contribute and that is lost in heating and cooking are protective antibodies. Most of these egg antibodies are called IgY antibodies. They are found primarily in the egg’s yolk. Although the chick was meant to absorb these antibodies from its yolk before hatching they remain protective in the intestine even when furnished after hatching. These antibodies are not only effective in controlling intestinal bacteria, they are also though to control the growth of C. albicans, the cause of avian thrush or candidiasis. Powdered egg will not do. Its antibodies were lost in processing.

Once the pigeon or dove hatches, these antibodies – which are also present in the parent’s natural crop milk are still important. But after birth the antibodies are thought to only have the ability to act locally within the squabs intestinal tract. Their molecules are too large to pass through the squab’s intestinal lining intact. Their presence there is still quite beneficial. It is not only the egg yolk that contains protective qualities – the whites do too (lysozymes).

Well, isn’t there a danger in feeding raw eggs?

Yes, but the risk is small. One out of 10 – 20,000 commercially produced eggs in the United States tests positive for salmonella. That risk can, perhaps be reduced even further by buying free-range chicken eggs. (read here)

Pasteurized, whole egg are perhaps another option. But I do not know if IgY antibodies survive the pasteurization processes used. If that processed did not take the egg contents to over 60 degrees C (140 F) for ten minutes, these antibodies should have survived intact. (read here) I am still waiting to hear back from Davidson they never answered my email.

What About The Lack of vitamin A In Eggs and Oats?

It is true that you will not find any vitamin A listed on oat cereal labels and a single large egg has only about one tenth a human’s suggested daily vitamin A intake. But both egg yolk and oatmeal are rich in carotenoids that avian bodies have the ability to convert into active vitamin A (retinol). (read here) A source of either vitamin A or carotenoids are very important in maintaining a strong defense against infections and maintaining healthy skin and feathers.

Although some egg producers darken their egg yolks with artificial feed additives, more often darker orange/yellow yolks are a sign of higher carotenoid content. When given the opportunity, pick eggs with the deepest orange yolks. It is always safer to provide carotenoids than it is to supplement with vitamin A from things like cod liver oil or bird vitamin tonics. That is because too much vitamin A is toxic. (read here)

What Are Feather Stress Bars?

During the period that a bird’s feather is forming under its skin, the follicle that is producing the feather relies on a steady stream of protein building blocks obtained from the bird’s blood stream (the amino acids needed to build feathers including β-keratin). If that steady flow of amino acids are interrupted – by a lack of appropriate food, a disinclination to eat or starvation – the feather will no longer develop normally because the bird can no longer produce the keratin proteins required to form the feather. When those nutrients again reach the proper level in its blood stream, feather development returns to normal. So, a careful examination of a bird’s feathers gives you a look back into its past. In this particular dove in the two photos above, I or one of my volunteers apparently missed a scheduled feeding while the feather I am pointing to was developing. That resulted in the narrow white line – like a scissor cut – present to the right of my finger. Each incident of low blood amino acids causes a discrete line. You can see that the integrity and strength of of the feather shaft was compromised at that point. With time, that feather will break at both points. You can view a more idealized image of stress bars here and read a bit more about the problem and feathers in general here.

Is There Enough Calcium In The Diet You Use?

Some wildlife rehabilitators and aviculturists associate deformed legs and feet (such as in this deformed white Turkish dove) with insufficient calcium in the diet during their growth period. I have never seen bone or joint problems or flexible bones in pigeons, doves or parrots fed this formula, so I believe that its calcium content is adequate. 8 grams of oatmeal contains about 4 mg of calcium and a 100 gm chicken pullet requires about 130 mg of calcium per day. The soy milk I use is also calcium-fortified.

When twisted or bowed foot or leg problems occur, it is more likely that they were caused by too smooth or too flat a cage floor. When a baby bird stands on a floor that is basically flat, its toenails will begin to curve sideways and exert a small twisting force to the toes. With time, like a tree branch, the toes will twist to accommodate that force. Eventually, the pad of the foot will not rest flat against the floor either. Those sort of problems can be prevented by furnishing the infant with a slightly indented twig mat similar to the mat that forms the coarse floor of a dove’s natural nest. I use a shallow plastic dessert bowl to maintain my artificial nest’s shape. Paper towels or Kleenex™ will not do. They slip and slide. As the bird grows, twigs should always be available that exceed the diameter of the bird’s clenched toes. You can read more about the problem, spraddle leg here.

Why Do Your Wild Doves Have White On Their Wings?

I live in the tropical Rio Grande Valley of Texas. Although some mourning doves are brought to me, more often they are tropical white-winged doves or tiny Inca doves.

If I Keep Doves And Pigeons After They Would Have Left Their Nest, Should I Give Them Grit?

No, not necessarily.

There is no need for you to provide insoluble grit if you run the bird’s diet through an old-fashioned corn grinder like the one in the photo above. Set the crank you see in the photo at its coarsest setting to accomplish the same thing that grit does in a dove’s gizzard. An alternative to soluble grit are a sprinkle of powdered eggshells. A coffee bean grinder, such as the one in the photo does that well. I do not release the wild doves I raise until after our fall dove hunting season ends. The unfortunate dove in the last photo obstructed on a piece of grit that was too large. That dove came in with a broken wing that I repaired. I was supplying insoluble grit half that size at the time. Perhaps that piece of grit was already consumed. Perhaps it was unintentionally left in its flight from a previous occupant. Once you release a dove, it will find the right size and amount of grit on its own.

You are on the Vetspace animal health website

Visiting the products that you see displayed on this website help pay the cost of keeping these articles on the Internet.

Feeding wild pigeons

Category: Pigeons

In most cases, wild pigeons are grain-eating birds, some also feed on fruits and berries, but they are rarely kept in captivity.

Grain mixture is the main food for granivorous pigeons, and the part of this or that component depends on the type of pigeon, the premises in which it is kept, and also on the season.

Millet is the main and important ingredient for small pigeons. Brightly colored millet varieties are rich in carotene and vitamin B ₂ . When rearing chicks, wild pigeons of small species are well fed with canary seed or poppy seeds.

Hemp has a good effect on the plumage, giving it a shine. Hemp seed is pre-boiled for 5 minutes and then dried. But do not feed hemp seed in large quantities, as this can lead to obesity in birds and disease. Flax seed has the same property, but only small species of pigeons eat it.

Large pigeons are best suited for sunflower seeds, but in the total mixture it should not be more than 10-15%, since with a large number of seeds in the diet, pigeons begin to get fat, which leads to illness.

Crushed corn should also be present, as pigeons readily eat it.

Rape and colza must be included in the feed mixture, although not all pigeon species like them. In order for reps and colza to be better eaten, these seeds must first be boiled for 5 minutes in sweetened water, and then dried.

It is also recommended to give additional food in the form of hard boiled rice or wheat porridge, compound feed for poultry, cereal sprouts, white bread soaked in milk or sweet tea, fresh herbs, etc.

Grain mixtures for various types of wild pigeons (component content in percent)

For small doves

5, salad seed - 5, linseed - 5, boiled hemp - 5.

For large turtledoves

Millet - 20, rapeseed - 5, oatmeal - 10, meadow grass seeds - 10, weed grass seeds - 5, flaxseed - 5, sunflower seeds - 10, boiled hemp - 10, wheat - 10, crushed corn - 10.

For medium pigeons

Millet - 20, rapeseed - 10, oatmeal - 10, meadow grass seeds - 10, sunflower seeds - 10, wheat - 20, crushed corn - 10.

For large species of pigeons

Millet - 20, oatmeal - 10, sunflower seeds - 10, boiled hemp - 10, wheat - 30, crushed corn - 20.

Feeding domestic pigeons

their fecundity, flight qualities and resistance to various

diseases. Unlike other bird species, as we have already written, pigeons have a short intestine, so the need for food is high. The special structure of the pigeon intestine does not allow plant fiber to be sufficiently absorbed, so the diet should contain no more than 5% fiber and 15% protein. As well as for wild pigeons, there are grain compositions for poultry (in percent).

Meat breeds

Yellow corn - 35, wheat waste - 5, peas - 20 and red millet - 20.

For flying pigeons

Millet - 40, vetch, lentils or peas - 40, hemp - 10, wheat - 10.

The mixture must be mixed and placed in a container protected from rodents. 50 g of this mixture per day for 1 pigeon. In the form of additives to the grain mixture, it is best to introduce boiled potatoes, bread, porridge, etc. If you give additives separately from the grain, this can lead to intestinal upset.

It is useful to give pigeons rich in minerals cabbage leaves, lettuce, green grass. In hot weather, the development of the chicks slows down due to the greater amount of water consumed by the pigeons, and then the chicks get less nutrients. Then it is best to give food to lactating birds in the morning when it is cool. In the heat, it is undesirable to include peas, as they are poorly digested. Also in roast

the time for digestion of food increases the need for gravel. Easy digestibility is the main requirement for feed. The daily need for feed depends on the weight of the pigeon, since for light species with a body weight of up to 300 g, about 30 g of feed is required; with a mass of up to 500 g - about 40 g; with a mass of more than 500 g - about 50 g of the grain mixture, special attention should be paid to the quality of the feed: the grain mixture should not contain harmful components. When choosing grain for pigeons, it is necessary to carefully examine it for the presence of dark spots (a sign of fungal diseases), husks, etc. The finished grain mixture should be stored in a closed, clean and dry container, ventilated from time to time.

Grain can be rendered harmless by placing it in a solution of copper sulphate and then thoroughly rinsing it with clean water.

There is another way to check the grain - it should be immersed in a saturated salt solution. The affected grain and beetle larvae should float to the surface. Everything that has appeared on the surface is collected, and the remaining grain should be washed with clean water. Be sure to immerse peas to check, since it is this culture that is most susceptible to infection by beetles.

Basic rules for feeding pigeons. | Pigeons of Kazan

The right diet.

Pigeon diet has an impact not only on the appearance of the bird, but also on life expectancy and health.

With daily feeding, the pigeon breeder has a wonderful opportunity to observe his pets. Success in breeding pigeons directly depends on regular monitoring of the entire flock as a whole and the health of each individual bird. Pigeons' food first enters the goiter, where it softens for several hours, and then into the stomach. thus a long uniform digestion occurs. It practically does not matter how many times a day you feed the pigeons - one or two, since they, depending on the amount of food, evenly consume it, and eat the rest throughout the day. If, under normal conditions, in winter, pigeons are fed once a day, then, as practice shows, they eat everything without a trace.

For hygiene reasons, the pigeons should be fed in separate troughs to avoid infection. To make pigeons more trusting of you, you should feed them in pairs or individually. It is good if you take an individual approach to each cage or each pigeon family. If each pair gets their food individually, the question of malnutrition of some pigeons will disappear by itself. The advantage of the separate feeding method is confirmed by the following fact. Growing pigeons learn to eat from their parents very early, from 21 to 24 days they can simply not leave the feeder. There have been cases of overeating.
When feeding chicks, pigeons especially need a complete, varied and characteristic food for this species. In addition to the grain mixture, some species require animal and soft food. Pigeons willingly eat compound feed for poultry, white bread soaked in milk, dry cottage cheese, flour worms, insect larvae, hard-boiled and finely chopped chicken eggs. When feeding pigeons with a variety of feeds, it is easy to determine which components they need when feeding their chicks. When compiling a diet, special attention should be paid to providing birds with vitamins and minerals. Chicks of almost all species of pigeons are prone to rickets and are more sensitive than adult birds to a lack of vitamins and minerals.

Plumage appears gradually. First, pegs of feathers are visible, then flight feathers appear from them, then all the rest. Almost all chicks have a short tail by the time they leave the nest and have the ability to fly.

Feeding young animals.

Jigging of young birds. Young wild pigeons that have flown out of the nest become independent in 2-3 weeks; up to this point, the chicks do not search for food energetically enough, and without additional feeding by their parents, they can become very weak and even die from exhaustion. During this period, more food should be given so that the pigeons regularly feed the young birds that have flown out of the nest.

Often, shortly after the chicks have hatched, adult birds begin to build a nest and lay eggs. Through observations, it is established which of the parents is the initiator of this, they are caught and isolated from the chicks. Most often it is a male. The remaining bird continues to feed the chicks until they are completely independent. When young birds begin to do without parents, they are placed in a separate cage. Young animals often do not take food from feeders and starve, therefore, the first time after jigging, food should be placed in several places and scattered along the bottom of the cage or aviary. Quarrels can begin between young birds, which are usually harmless, but it is better to keep a close eye on them.

Until the onset of puberty, young animals are richly fed the same food as adults. During this period, they eat more than adults. If the pigeons give up feeding the chicks, then the brood will surely die. Young growth must be especially carefully protected from drafts and dampness, since at this time it is very sensitive to colds. It should be kept in a spacious room so that the birds can fly and run freely on the floor.

Birds may also be orphaned if one of the adult birds dies. To save them from imminent death, it is necessary to place the chicks with foster parents. A laughing pigeon can be used as a foster parent, whose merits as a "nanny" are established and recognized.

When selecting "nannies", one must take into account their biological characteristics, as well as the characteristics of the reared species. So, domestic pigeons can feed the chicks of a wedge or pigeon, and various exotic small doves, respectively, are the same small species. When breeding, it is always necessary to have in reserve several pairs of pigeons capable of performing the duties of foster parents, which are best kept in pairs in separate cages measuring 70 × 60 × 50 cm. Keeping “nannies” in one aviary is not recommended. Earthen, pheasant and some other pigeons are kept in low cages, since the chicks of these species leave the nest when they are still bad at flying and when jumping from a high-lying nest, they can damage their legs or wings. Pigeons fed by "nannies" retain all the features typical of their species.

When laying eggs in the nest for "nannies", it is necessary to take into account the period of incubation. If the foundlings hatch earlier than 4 days or more, the adoptive parents will not yet have goiter milk and the chicks will die by this time. When placing already hatched chicks of valuable species in the nest with foster parents, their own eggs or chicks must be removed. The age and size of the chicks of the nested species should approximately coincide with the age and size of the chicks of the adoptive parents, the difference should not be more than 3-4 days. When raising chicks by other types of pigeons, the danger of "imprinting" foster parents is not noted, as in weavers and parrots. Fosterlings retain all the features of this species and subsequently choose a partner of the same species.

Consider the feeding of pigeons according to the seasons of the year.

In spring and summer, at the time of breeding, feeding chicks, pigeons expend a lot of energy. To restore it, they need food with a high protein content, such as legume grains, skim milk mash, etc. Young animals especially need mineral supplements to build the skeleton.

From July, the birds begin to molt, which sometimes lasts until October. For the formation of a feather, pigeons have to spend a lot of nutrients, mainly protein. Therefore, increased feeding is again, only one must not overdo it, otherwise the pigeons from abundant food can break out the instinct of reproduction, and by the end of the summer this is useless.

In autumn, pigeons are transferred to winter food. If you can still find fresh greens, they must put them in the feeder, and if not, then dried greens, carrots and pumpkin as a vitamin supplement. In the winter months, the food is selected so that there is no excess protein, otherwise the pigeons may decide to hatch the chicks at the wrong time. Therefore, it is better not to give high-protein grains (lentils, peas, beans, vetch) at this time. From grain feeds, barley, oats are included in the diet, or even do without them. A mash will be quite sufficient in terms of nutrition, for example, from potatoes boiled peeled in salt water, wheat bran with the addition of vitamin feed and crushed slaked lime. In winter, birds look great when fed every other day with rapeseed or flax seeds, 20-50 g per day for 15 pairs.

In winter, only homing and chasing pigeons on a special diet. Even during this period, they have more energy costs, and they can be replenished with feed rich in starch and sugar. And there are many of these substances in corn, rice and barley. Rapeseed and flax seeds are also very useful for them - about 3-4 g per pigeon per day. During the competition they are fed with sugar.

About competitions. Before the start, the pigeons are not fed, but after a long flight they are allowed to peck at some seeds of rape, colza or other oilseeds mixed with crushed wheat. For pigeons, these seeds are a delicacy. Some fanciers, in order to accustom birds to returning from walks to the dovecote, lure them with this particular delicacy. During the transportation of birds to the competition, they are not fed with legumes, since the birds need to drink plenty of water to soften it in the stomach. On the road, you need to drink, but the strong thirst of the pigeons will complicate the matter.

Food is taken out 2-3 times a day at a strictly defined time, the feeders are placed on an equipped area in front of the nursery. The site should always be clean so that crumbs do not lie on it and mold, which birds can then peck at. During the feeders, they observe: if the pigeons pecked and went to the drinkers, nests, then they were full, the feeders can be removed, and the site put in order.

An important factor determining the rate of development, growth and live weight of pigeons is feed. The reproductive ability of birds also depends on them. Changes in feeding, both quantitatively and qualitatively, affect the functional activity of organs and systems, their morphology, the appearance of the pigeon and its general condition.
All foods are composed of organic and inorganic substances. Inorganic feeds include water and mineral salts. Organic substances are more complex in structure - these are proteins, fats and carbohydrates. No single food contains all the nutrients necessary for the body of pigeons. Therefore, their diet should include a variety of foods.

Proteins - the most important component of plants and animals Once in the digestive system of an animal, feed proteins break down into components - amino acids, which are absorbed by the body and used to build organs and tissues. Without protein, the existence of a living organism is impossible. Excess protein taken with feed is not absorbed, which adversely affects the condition of the bird. Grains of leguminous plants (peas, beans, lentils, etc.) are rich in protein. There is less protein in the grains of cereal plants.
Fats, like proteins, are part of plant and animal organisms, but are used by animals as an energy source. In plants, fat accumulates mainly in seeds. Most fat in sunflower seeds, hemp, flax and other oilseeds. Of the main feeds for pigeons, corn and oats contain the largest amount of fat. Fat reserves are deposited in the body of the animal (under the cat, in the muscle tissue, near the internal organs). Feeding fat-rich feeds must be done very carefully to avoid obesity in birds. With insufficient intake of Fat in the animal's body, there is an increased consumption of proteins and carbohydrates.

Carbohydrates, like fats, are used by the body for energy. Plants are mostly made up of carbohydrates. Juicy feeds (green feeds and root crops) are especially rich in them. The group of carbohydrates includes fiber, starch and sugar. Fiber is poorly digested in the bird's body, so the less it is in the feed, the higher its quality. Little fiber (2%) in the grain of corn and wheat. Starch is a valuable component of grain feed and potatoes. Starch and sugar, after digestion and absorption into the body, ensure the work of muscles, are used to generate heat, and serve as a source of fat formation.

Vitamins are complex organic compounds present in feed in very small amounts. They are involved in many biochemical processes occurring in the body, therefore, with a lack or absence of vitamins in the feed, the animal's metabolism is disturbed. They are contained mainly in green plants, germinated seeds, root crops. Feed yeast, fish oil and vitamin preparations produced by the industry can serve as a source of vitamins.
Minerals are part of all cells and tissues of the body.

They are divided into macro - and microelements. Diets of birds should be balanced in three macronutrients: calcium, phosphorus and sodium and in six microelements: manganese, zinc, iodine, iron, copper, cobalt. Macronutrients include calcium, phosphorus, sodium and potassium. With their deficiency, the growth and development of young animals are delayed, the backbone is weakened, and the egg shell is thinned. Therefore, crushed and sifted shell rock and chalk (3% of the daily feed intake) are introduced into the feed mixtures. Sodium and Potassium regulate the reaction of the blood and metabolic processes in the body, affect the absorption of nutrients and are part of some enzymes.

Magnesium, calcium and phosphorus are involved in metabolism. Sulfur is a good feather growth stimulant and is essential in the diet of pigeons, especially during molting. With a lack of iron, the synthesis of hemoglobin in the blood is disrupted, which leads to anemia. In addition to iron, other trace elements also participate in it: copper, manganese, cobalt. Cobalt stimulates the formation of red blood cells and affects protein synthesis. Copper promotes the use of sugars, affects the activity of sex hormones. Manganese affects the redox processes in the body and the intensity of protein metabolism; its deficiency delays the formation and growth of pigeons. Zinc is part of enzymes and hormones; with its deficiency in poultry, gastrointestinal diseases often occur. Iodine is part of the thyroid hormone; its deficiency affects the growth of young pigeons.

With the monotonous feeding of birds with grain feed during the breeding period, the need for minerals increases sharply. In percentage terms, they should be contained in the following quantity: bone meal - 80, calcium phosphate - 5, mineral components - 1.5 (ratio of manganese, iron and copper - 6: 1: 0.3), iodized salt - 13.5. Gravel. Along with minerals, pigeons require the smallest pebbles (gravel), which settle in the muscular stomach and grind food.

The gravel should have a rounded shape, the diameter of the part should be about 2-3 mm. Chalk, shell can not replace it. Sometimes gravel is replaced with coarse river sand. The amount of gravel consumption is regulated by pigeons. From 10 to 100 pebbles are found in the stomach of an individual bird. Gravel should always be in a separate feeder, it is recommended to add it to the feed mixture once a week. In the absence of gravel in the stomach of a pigeon, the absorption of feed is reduced by 25-30%. It not only grinds food, but also has a beneficial effect on the development of internal organs. With a lack of gravel, weakness, depression, intestinal upset, and ruffled plumage appear. In its absence, pigeons die from atrophy of the muscular stomach within 20-30 days after the onset of the disease (with clinical signs of general underdevelopment and increased thirst).

To provide pigeons with minerals and gravel, mixtures are usually prepared, which are given in the form of scattering or so-called loaves. A mixture of mineral feed can be prepared from four parts of red brick crumbs, two parts of old plaster crumbs, one part of eggshell, one part of meat and bone meal, one part of coarse river sand and one part of a mixture of calcium carbonate, copper and iron sulphate and cobalt sulphate. . All this is well mixed and poured with an aqueous solution of sodium chloride (in a ratio of 20 g per 1 liter of water) to such a state that small flat bread can be molded. They are dried in the sun or on a tile. If not dried, they become moldy from the inside and become unusable. Store bread in a dry place and, as needed, give it to pigeons in crushed form.

Water. It is involved in all metabolic processes as a solvent and carrier of nutrients, minerals and active substances in the body. During the life of the body, water is constantly consumed and, accordingly, must be replenished. The body of a pigeon contains from 60 to 80% water, depending on age. They drink relatively much - from 30 to 60 ml of water per day, and feeding chicks - sometimes more. The need for drinking water in pigeons depends on the temperature and relative humidity of the air, body weight, type of food (some feeds require a lot of water to swell) and the work performed (hatching eggs and rearing chicks). Lack of water affects the pigeon worse than starvation.

In pigeons, unlike other types of poultry, the intestines are short, its ratio compared to body length is 1:7, so the need for feed and its quality is very high. In connection with the special structure of the intestine, plant fiber is not absorbed enough, and the diet should contain at least 15% protein and no more than 5% fiber. Stern. Feeds for meat pigeons are largely similar to those used for chickens and turkeys. However, there are a number of features in the feeding of these birds. In addition to traditional grains (corn, wheat, barley), pigeons are fed grains of legumes and oilseeds. Green and juicy feeds are necessary for pigeons as sources of vitamins, carbohydrates and other nutrients. As these feeds, they are recommended to feed finely chopped lettuce and cabbage leaves, spinach, sorrel, clover, germinated oats and barley, carrots, young nettles, alfalfa.

In winter, green fodder is obtained by sowing oats in boxes with soil; the removed greens are given to pigeons. At the same time, it is necessary to cope so that the germinated seed does not get into the feeder along with the sprouts. Sometimes pigeons are fed potatoes. Peeled potatoes are boiled, mashed and mixed with grain feed. Such feeding has a good effect on the pigeon's body. Grains of cereals are the main food for birds, containing many easily digestible nutrients. On average, cereal grains contain protein - 9-13% -, fat - 1.5-8%, fiber - 2-9%, starch - 65%, minerals - 2-3%. Grain feed can serve as a source of vitamins B, E, K (there are few other vitamins in them}.

Feed grain must be dry, free from harmful insects, fungi, mold, dust. It is not recommended to eat cracked grain for feeding, as it absorbs moisture and quickly becomes moldy. Feeding pigeons with freshly harvested grain should be avoided, as it causes diarrhea. It is better to feed with grain from last year's harvest.
When buying grain, you must first make sure it is dry; for this, they put their hand into the bag with it: if it slides easily and the grain does not stick to it, then it is dry. There are several ways to check the quality of the grain. With the help of a magnifier or a magnifying glass with a 3-5-fold increase, a suspicious grain (especially along the seam) is viewed with a lagging husk. The presence of black spots indicates its defeat (for example, fungal diseases).

In another test, a small portion of the grain is dipped in a saturated aqueous solution of common salt. The affected grain, beetle larvae float to the surface, they are drained together with water, the remaining grain is examined as in the first case. Some pigeon breeders practice immersion in saline solution of all grain to be fed, especially peas; unaffected grains are washed and dried. Pigeons eat wheat willingly, but it is recommended to feed it in small quantities, as it contributes to obesity. It is recommended to feed durum wheat varieties to pigeons, as their grain contains more protein and less starch than soft varieties. Barley is the best food for pigeons, as it contains all the nutrients in the required amount. It does not cause sexual arousal, so it is especially appreciated in winter. Pigeons, accustomed to other food, are reluctant at first to eat barley, leaving it in the feeder. In this case, the feeder should be removed, and the remaining grain should be fed to the hungry pigeons at the next feeding.

Corn. Although the grains of corn have a shell as hard as a cornea, yet they are easily digested, and pigeons eat them with great greed. Corn grains are too mealy, pigeons grow fat from a large number, become lazy, inactive, with flabby muscles. Feeding corn alone causes diseases of the digestive system, which often end in the death of the bird. Small amounts of corn in the diet increase the activity of the gonads, especially the ovaries. It should be fed in crushed form. Millet is considered a very good food for pigeons, especially its brightly colored varieties rich in vitamin B2 and carotene. Millet is a light feed and is especially recommended for young animals that have left the nest prematurely. The disadvantage is its hard, hard to digest shell. Pigeons of large breeds spend a lot of time and energy to fill the crop with one millet.

Oats. Whole grains of oats with an intact shell are not allowed to be given to pigeons. Hulled oats (oatmeal) is a very good food, which is given to them in feed mixtures. The high percentage of fat and minerals makes it especially useful in winter. Despite a significant percentage of fat, oats do not cause obesity.
Rice contains more starch and less fat than other grains. In pigeon breeding, rice is mainly used as a fixing agent for indigestion. With diarrhea, pigeons are given semi-cooked grains of rice sprinkled with chalk. It is not recommended to give peeled rice in large quantities and for a long time, as this can cause a disease that affects the nervous system - beriberi B. Buckwheat can be included in the feed mixture in small quantities, but it is not recommended to give rye to pigeons, as it causes diarrhea.

Oilseeds. Seeds of rapeseed, hemp, flax, colza, sunflower contain a lot of fat. Pigeons eat them more readily than other cereals, but they must be used in food very carefully and moderately. As a rule, oilseeds are mixed with other feeds in small quantities and only occasionally. Hempseed greatly excites pigeons, and frequent use causes inflammation of the mucous membrane of the nostrils. It is recommended to give it in small amounts before mating and during molting. Rape and colza are also recommended to be given during molting, they speed up the process of its passage. Aniseed is a delicacy for pigeons. It is considered an aphrodisiac. Aniseed is added to feed mixtures for weakened pigeons to increase appetite.

Legumes are superior in protein to cereal grains. The composition of legume grains in sufficient quantities includes calcium and phosphorus, which are necessary for mineral metabolism in birds. Legumes should be fed from the previous year's harvest, the seeds should have a natural gloss, if it is not there and the seeds are shriveled, then their nutritional value is negligible. All legumes, especially beans and peas, are fed during fallow and molt. Legume grains need a lot of moisture to swell, so it is best not to feed legumes during transportation of pigeons. Beans quickly saturate the pigeon, this is especially beneficial during the feeding period of the chicks. Peas mixed with cereal grains are the best food for pigeons. This feed mixture contains all the necessary nutrients. Pigeons are usually fed with field yellow peas, the grain of which should be bright yellow and shiny. Feeding freshly harvested peas causes diarrhea, greatly weakens the body of pigeons.

Vika contains more protein than other legumes and is well eaten by pigeons. It is recommended to feed it in the second year after harvesting from the field, otherwise it causes stomach diseases. Vetch is fed in feed mixtures.
Lentils are good food for pigeons. It is especially recommended to feed lentils to young animals. It must be remembered that its flat grains can stick to the palate of young pigeons. Adhering grain irritates the sky, makes it difficult to breathe. Therefore, when feeding with lentils, it is recommended to inspect the young every day and, having found the grain adhering to the palate, remove it with the blunt end of the pen. Lentils are flat, small and well ripened as feed for pigeons.

Beans are also fed to pigeons. It is only necessary to choose fine-grained varieties; too large beans are crushed.
Acorns. In Belgium, pigeons have long been fed acorns during the winter months (20-30% of the total feed). Before use, they are cleaned and, after complete drying, crushed. Grain waste. Pigeons are better than other birds at digesting weed seeds. Therefore, grain waste is a valuable food for them, in which there are often many seeds of wild grasses and weeds.

Compound feed. In industrial poultry farming, compound feeds containing all the elements necessary for the body are widely used. Pigeons are reluctant to peck mealy feed because of the structural features of the beak and oral cavity, adapted to receive grain feed, therefore, granulated feed is used to feed them.