What do you feed orphaned baby mice


How to Take Care of Baby Mice

By Lee Parker | Updated September 26, 2017

Caring for orphaned baby mice is not easy; many infant mice don't make it through the first week due to heat loss, lack of nutrition or sickness. If the baby mouse is a pinkie; that is, without any fur, raising him to adulthood is difficult, but not impossible. With feedings every one to two hours and plenty of warmth, he has a decent chance of survival.

Supplies to Have on Hand

Being prepared is the first step in the successful raising of an orphaned baby mouse. Items to have on hand include Pedialyte, a small syringe, a heating pad or hot water bottle and soft nesting material such as old T-shirts, blankets and small stuffed animals. Puppy milk replacement, found at most pet food stores, is also important, as this is the closest option to mouse milk available.

Where to Start

Inspect the baby mouse first for any wounds or signs of illness such as blood around the nose, or labored breathing. You also will need to stimulate the baby mouse to go to the bathroom; he cannot do this on his own. Mimic the mother's natural way of licking his genitals by using a damp cotton swap, or the tip of your finger. You will need to do this after every feeding until the baby mouse is able to void on his own.

Full Bellies Are Important

Feed the baby mouse by filling a small 1 cubic centimeter syringe with puppy milk replacement and slowly administering it into his mouth. Be careful not to press too hard on the syringe or the mouse will aspirate; you will see milk come from his nose. Position the baby mouse upright and belly down for his feedings. For the first three feedings, dilute the puppy milk replacement with a little water and watch for diarrhea. If the stools are mustard yellow, everything is normal.

Warm Nests Make Happy Babies

When using a heating pad for your baby mouse, never place the mouse directly on the pad and always keep the pad setting on low. A too-warm pad can dehydrate a baby mouse quickly. If he has other orphaned siblings, keep all the baby mice together and ensure one does not wander off on his own. Fill the mouse's enclosure with plenty of bedding, both under and above the baby mouse. Do not cover the mouse in an airtight container, but do keep him under wraps to trap heat.

Tips and Tricks

Warm the formula for the baby mouse by placing it in warm tap water for a few minutes. The baby mouse will indicate when it is full, but a helpful trick for expected formula amounts is to weigh him first. The mouse's weight in grams, divided in half, equals the amount of cc's he should be eating. If the mouse refuses to drink, try using Pedialyte before attempting formula again.

References

  • The Fun Mouse: Orphaned Mice
  • Rat and Mouse Club of America: Orphaned Rats and Mice
  • Rat Fan Club: Raising Orphaned Rats and Mice
  • Fancy Mice: Baby Care
  • The Complete Care of Baby Animals: Expert Advice on Raising Orphaned, Adopted or Newly Bought Kittens, Puppies, Foals, Lambs, Chicks and More; C. E. Spaulding, Jackie Clay

Photo Credits

Orphaned Mouse Care | Chip Chloe Squirrel

What should I do if I find an orphaned baby mouse?

Determine if the mouse/mice are indeed orphaned.  If you have accidentally destroyed a nest with babies in it, build a makeshift nest using any of the nest remains in a small shallow container, and place it near the original nest site and leave it undisturbed for an hour or two to see if the mother returns to retrieve and relocate her babies. If any of the babies have already died, if they are lethargic or cold to the touch, or if you find one baby wandering alone, chances are that they have been orphaned.

Always wash your hands thoroughly after handling mice.

The risk of contracting disease is rare but increases if you live in the southwestern United States.

When you find an abandoned mouse, there are a few essential steps that should be immediately taken.

(Please note - these instructions are also applicable for other small rodents like orphaned voles and rats)

The first priority is to get the baby warmed up before attempting to feed it anything.   Baby mice with their eyes closed (and even for a week after eyes open) are unable to maintain their own body temperature without a supplemental heat source. Make a small nest using t-shirt material, flannel or fleece and place it in a secure container with ventilation (a reuseable Tupperware with vented lid works well) and place it on a heating pad set on low. Make sure it doesn’t have an ‘auto shutoff’. If you don’t have a heating pad, you can fill an old sock with rice, corn or another grain and microwave it for 30 seconds to use as a heat source (use good judgement to make sure it’s not too hot – you’re trying to mimic the mother mouse’s body temperature). This will need to be rewarmed every couple of hours to maintain the warmth.

While the mouse is warming up, use ahnow.org to locate wildlife rehabilitators in your area who may be able to assist in raising the mouse. Leave messages with as many as possible because you may not get a return call for several hours or days. Orphaned mice are VERY difficult to raise and require feedings every 2-3 hours around the clock for several weeks. Rehabilitators are already equipped with the proper tools, formula and knowledge to properly rehabilitate orphaned wildlife but they are very busy and usually overloaded with animals to care for, so be prepared to transport your mouse to them.

After warming, the mouse needs to be hydrated within a few hours of being found. Plain Pedialyte is the best option, but you can also make your own makeshift hydration solution by dissolving 1 tablespoon of sugar and 1 teaspoon of salt in 1 cup of warm water. The best tools for feeding mice are small syringes with pointed rubber nipples (example here), but you probably won’t have those on hand, so you can try dipping the tip of a tiny paintbrush in the fluid and allowing the mouse to lick it off. Get as much fluid into the mouse as you can (0.2-0.5 mL), every 2 hours for the first 4-6 hours.

Mice with their eyes closed need to be stimulated to urinate and defecate after each feeding/hydration session. Gently rub the genital area with a q-tip or tissue in a motion that mimics the mother mouse licking the area.  Moistening the q-tip in warm water may help.  Do this for about 10 seconds, and if no results, try again after feeding some more.  You may not see any poop for the first few times, but you should hopefully see a few drops of urine unless they’re very dehydrated.

If you are unable to locate a wildlife rehabilitator after multiple attempts:
Baby mice can’t go too long without being fed, so if you’re not able to locate a rehabber within about 6-8 hours of finding the babies, you will eventually need to transition them from the hydration solution to a suitable formula. After 2 feedings of the hydration formula, you can start to feed watered-down formula, gradually making the formula to water ratio stronger over the next 3-4 feedings (for example, start with 5 parts water to 1 part formula powder, then 4:1, then 3:1 and finally 2 parts water to 1 part formula powder). For babies under 1 week old, I like to keep the ratio at around 3:1 or 2. 5 parts water to 1 part formula so it's easier on their digestive systems. Acceptable formulas are: Goat’s Milk Esbilac Puppy Milk Replacer, Fox Valley brand formulas (20/50 squirrel formula; Puppy Formula), or if none of those are available, you can make homemade formula (3 tbsp goat’s milk, 3 tbsp plain yogurt, 2 tbsp heavy cream, 1/2 egg yolk. If you can't find goat’s milk, double the yogurt.) 

Powdered formulas are preferred because you can mix a fresh batch each day for the needed amount, in comparison with liquid formulas which must be used within three days. Please contact me for advice if you are having trouble locating suitable options. DO NOT FOLLOW OTHER ONLINE RECIPES FOR MIXING YOUR OWN FORMULAS WITHOUT GUIDANCE FROM A LICENSED REHABILITATOR – these can result in severe malnutrition and issues like bloat that can lead to death. 

Baby mice need to be fed as often as once every two hours depending how old they are. (This chart can help to estimate age.) This means that you must be prepared for some sleepless nights.  A good goal is to feed every 3 hours around the clock, and for the mouse to ingest between 0.3mL – 0.5mL per feeding (up until eyes open) and up to 1mL for eyes-open babies until they gradually wean at 3 weeks of age.

You can use the same method of dipping a tiny paintbrush into the formula and allowing the mouse to suck it off. However – this is a very difficult method of feeding small mice and usually results in the mouse not getting enough food at each feeding. Please try to order the proper syringes and small pointed nursing nipples for the best results. 

After warming formula, gently hold the mouse between your fingers, with your index finger near the head, ready to prevent it from lunging forward and falling. Carefully and consistently apply pressure to the syringe plunger to administer 1 drop at a time and ensure that the baby is suckling and swallowing the formula. 


TIP: Mice like their formula WARM and it cools very quickly in such a small syringe so it’s recommended to fill 2 syringes and have one sitting in a cup of hot water so you can swap back and forth regularly while the other one keeps warm.

Be careful not to allow any formula to enter their lungs. You can check this by observing that no milk is bubbling from their nose. If milk enters their lungs, aspiration pneumonia may occur. The best way to avoid this is to keep the mouse upright when feeding it, never allowing it to rest on its back. If you do see a bubble form, flip the baby to a head-down position to prevent any more liquid from entering its lungs and wipe the nose with a tissue to absorb any liquid.

Overfeeding is also dangerous and can lead to bloat. Check to ensure that they are well fed by the emergence of a white patch in the middle of their belly, a milk belly. This should recede before the next feeding.  If you are seeing a full milk belly when the time comes for the next feeding, wait an extra half hour, and water down the formula to a 50:50 water to formula ratio for one feeding.  If your mouse experiences diarrhea, it is also likely a result of being overfed.  If this happens, or if your mouse is looking bloated, it’s ok to substitute Pedialyte/electrolyte solution for one or two feedings until the condition resolves.

Make sure to gently massage your baby’s abdomen and rectal area after each feeding to assist food in moving through the digestive tract and to help the baby eliminate waste. It’s almost impossible to reverse the effects of bloat once too much formula has backed up in the digestive tract, and this can lead to a painful death.

Baby mice begin to open their eyes at around 10-12 days of age.  They may need a larger enclosure at this point (acrylic kritter keepers work well), but still keep using the heating pad on low under the nest portion of their tank.  At this point, you can begin to add some dry oats into their nest and they will start to nibble on these within 1-2 days. Once they start nibbling solids, they will no longer require a nightly feeding – they can last from midnight to 6am without formula.

You can start to introduce other soft solids like spinach and other greens, fruit and crushed nuts. At three weeks of age, the babies will also no longer require the syringe for feedings and may begin to feed from a dish (jar lids work well as shallow dishes). Gradually make the switch from the syringe to a dish by leaving a dish of formula available between meals and spacing out feeding times to every 4-5 hours.

You can begin integrating foods such as baby food, fresh fruits and veggies, seeds and commercial mouse foods. Make sure to add a shallow dish of fresh water.

Mice are often very messy eaters, so after they finish their meals, it will be necessary to clean them up and replace soiled cage bedding often.  Plain paper towels make for easy clean up when used to line the cage. Alternatively you can use an unscented shredded paper bedding made for rodents.

By this point, your babies will be getting more active so you can move them to a larger tank – a large acrylic kritter keeper or 10 gallon tank with a tight fitting screen lid are best.  A wheel for exercise and some places to hide and things to chew on are also good for enrichment.

Mice can be released at about 4 weeks of age – about 1 week after weaning. However, it’s often better to keep them for an extra week if possible to allow them to put on some more weight.  To begin acclimating for release, ensure that the weather is consistently above 50 degrees Fahrenheit and that there are at least 3-4 days with no rain forecasted*. A suitable release location should be an area with plenty of underbrush for shelter and nearby food and water sources.

It’s good to move their cage outdoors in a protected area at least a full day before release so they can adjust to the outdoor smells and sounds. Secure the lid so no predators can intrude overnight.  Mice should be released at dusk since this is when they are most active.  Gently tilt the tank on its side and gradually open the screen cover.  Continue to place food and water at the release location for at least a week, if not longer, while they establish a nesting site nearby.

*If the mice are old enough for release but it’s too cold outside or if heading into the winter months, you may need to overwinter the mice until spring.   Please visit the Adult Mouse Care page for further instructions.

How to feed

How to switch from dry food?

• 1-2 days: 75% dry + 25% natural

• 3-4 days: 50% dry + 50% natural

• 5-6 days: 25% dry + 75% natural

• From the 7th day you can start feeding only natural

Portion size

• 2-6 months: 7-8% of body weight

• 6-12 months: 5-6% of body weight

• After 12 months: 3-4% of body weight

Meals should be scheduled at the same time every day

Essential foods in the daily ration

All of them are in our balanced food for every day. You just have to defrost and give it to your dog!

• 40-50% meat - beef, chicken, turkey, lamb, duck (trimmings, cheeks, fillets)

• 20-50% meat and bone - bird necks, bird heads, bird backs, beef tail

• 30% muscular organs - heart, stomach, lung, scar

• 5-10% hematopoietic organs - liver, kidneys, spleen, testicles, brains

• Plus vegetables over ration 20% - zucchini, pumpkin, carrots (better chopped, for example, through a meat grinder)

This diagram shows the optimal the ratio of foods in your dog's bowl. It is not necessary to give all components at once daily

Cartilage, ears, noses, trachea - 20% of the diet

The diet can be supplemented with fish (1-3 times a week), as well as fermented milk products and eggs (1-2 times a week).

Errors

Overfeeding is no better than underfeeding. It is very easy to understand that the diet is wrong:

• If there is food left in the bowl after eating, then you are giving too much

• If the dog has a “unloved” food, then it is better to reduce the amount of “favorite”

• If the dog refuses to eat another bite immediately after eating, it means that he ate more than he needs

• If the pet has a good appetite, but he loses weight, then this indicates underfeeding

Signs of being overweight

• The dog's belly should be smaller than the chest

• The ribs should not be visible, but should be palpable with the fingers

• The dog should not walk like a duck

Weight can be determined on a scale and compared to the breed standard

***

  • Why does a dog NOT need to boil meat?
  • Why does a dog refuse natural food?
  • How to feed bones to a dog?
  • Why is it important to follow a feeding schedule?
  • How much water does a dog need daily?
  • How many times a day should a dog be fed?
  • Artificial feeding of puppies
  • How to teach a puppy to drink milk?
  • At what age can a puppy start on an adult diet?
  • Can I feed my dog ​​frozen meat?
  • Can a cat eat the same meat as a dog?
  • What should be the servings?

We are very happy that we receive not only orders by phone, but also a large number of questions about feeding. We always try to help with advice, especially in those issues that we have thoroughly studied. Right now, let's figure out why a dog does NOT need to cook meat.

Gastric juice, in addition to taking an active part in the process of digestion, also has a bactericidal property. In other words, it helps destroy germs that enter your dog's stomach with food.

In cats and dogs, in contrast to humans, with proper species nutrition, the environment in the stomach is more acidic. The high acidity acts as a special chemical barrier to infections and helps keep the animal healthy. An acidic environment does not allow pathogenic microbes to enter the intestines, liver, pancreas, etc.

When feeding our pets with food that we eat ourselves, or by boiling meat for them, we are doing them a disservice, which consists in the following: boiled meat (especially with porridge) creates an alkaline environment in the stomach, depriving the animal's body of the opportunity to properly digest this food, and removes the barrier to pathogenic bacteria.

Raw meat is a natural species-specific diet that provides dogs and cats with a complete set of nutrients, and due to the specifics of the animal's digestive system, cannot harm its health.

Feed your animals right! Think before you feed something to your dog or cat. There is a lot of useful information on this site on our website.

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Why does a dog eat meat without much appetite?

As a rule, such a reaction occurs when trying to change the diet - switching from dry food to a natural healthy diet. Next, we'll figure out why this happens, and how to deal with it.

The main thing to remember is that natural feeding is not a matter of the dog's taste, but the owner's choice in favor of the health of his pet.

Imagine a child who was allowed to eat fast food and was suddenly offered healthy cottage cheese with fruit for breakfast. What will be the baby's reaction? Most likely, it will be bewilderment turning into protest.

The same with the dog. If you feed your four-legged friend with dry pads for a long time, his body, of course, gets used to such food. The organism of a living being, in principle, has adaptive abilities and adapts to the environment.

The digestive system, accustomed to flavorings or thermally processed food, has already learned to release a certain ratio of enzymes to food intake. And faced with a new diet for her, the animal is perplexed.

It is important to understand that it takes time to form a good habit of eating right. It is advisable to change the diet of the animal, in consultation with a competent veterinarian. And the transition to a healthy diet lasts for a couple of weeks. During this period, the taste buds of the dog seem to be updated, and cease to be dependent on flavoring additives.

This allows you to restore the natural connection between the nose and the brain: the animal begins to understand the taste of food and their need for his body. And the external transformations of the exterior of your dog, such as the condition of the coat, skin, nails, become confirmation that you are on the right track!

We offer you assistance in feeding your dog properly. In our store you will always find healthy tasty natural food: beef, lamb, poultry, fish, vegetables. And don't forget about tempting promotions.

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Everyone knows that literally two things can be done with bones: either throw them away or give them to the dog. But is it? Below we will tell you what a "sugar bone" is, to whom and in what form it can be given.

Sugar bone is a large bone covered with cartilage, with a spongy tissue structure and having an articular head. Why is she sugary? So it is called not at all because it is made of sugar, but because the head of the bone has a smooth surface, white, like sugar, in color.

Let's find out who this delicacy is suitable for:

- First of all, this delicacy is recommended to be given to puppies aged 4. 5-6 months. At this age, babies change their teeth, they often gnaw everything around. The bone will help loosen them and help them fall out faster.

- This bone is a natural abrasive for cleaning teeth. If you give it 1-2 times a month to puppies older than 6 months of age, then this will serve as a good prevention against tartar.

- The bones are very rich in calcium, so they can be added to the diet as a source of this useful element.

But there are some dangers:

- Eating bones in a pet wears and crumbles teeth. It is not recommended to give them to elderly animals, as well as to dogs with weak gums. It is better to pamper such pets with hand-made treats.

- Bones are not well digested and frequent consumption of them can clog the stomach and cause constipation.

- Pets with discipline problems should not be given bones either. The dog may begin to guard the bone, defend and bare his teeth.

- This treat is hardly suitable for small dog breeds. It is better for them to immediately separate pieces of cartilage or tendons. An alternative is the trachea, ears, kaltyks and other cartilage-containing products.

From all of the above, we can conclude that, in principle, bones can be given, but not too often, a couple of times a month, and only for medium and large breeds. The dog must have healthy teeth and mouth and no behavioral problems. If the pet begins to guard the sugar bone and show aggression, then such a treat should not be given.

Please note: dogs should not be fed tubular bones, especially fish bones. Fish bones can easily get stuck in the throat, and tubular ones crumble into sharp fragments that can easily damage the dog's digestive tract.

Dogs are very fond of chewing bones, so they should only be given large ones, such as a sugar bone.

If your pet is vaccinated and you know your dog has a “good” stomach, you can give your dog a bone to chew on raw. But some experts advise pre-boiling the bone.

In our store you can buy sugar, spinal, cartilaginous beef bones.

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First of all, you need to remember that any living organism has its own biological cycles relating to literally all life processes. Including digestion. A dog, like a person, receives energy from food in order to lead an active life. It takes a certain time for the meat eaten by the dog to be broken down and absorbed. Accordingly, the need for food intake also arises at certain intervals.

By accustoming a dog to food at one time or another of the day, you thereby set up his body for a certain rhythm of life, which he will adhere to. If this is done correctly, then periods of activity and rest will occur harmoniously in her life. Unsystematic feeding disrupts the normal pace of life of the animal, has a bad effect on digestion and causes disruptions in behavior.

From school we remember the experiments of the famous scientist Ivan Petrovich Pavlov, who clearly demonstrated and proved the principles of the formation of reflexes in all living beings using the example of a dog. The experience looked like this:

  • The dog was trained to receive food at a certain sound;
  • As a result of constant repetition, her digestive system began to produce gastric juice every time she heard this sound, even without eating;
  • And vice versa: food imperceptibly placed in the stomach without a signal did not begin to be digested.

The same principle works with time. When you set a feeding schedule for your dog, you create a conditioned reflex, and by this time his digestive system begins to work actively. What is the violation of this regime? At least to disorders of the gastrointestinal tract. Not to mention the fact that the animal experiences a strong feeling of hunger and does not receive food, that is, a load on the psyche is created.

We hope that you are already feeding your pet according to the schedule, because it is simply easier for you and for him. Try not to break the fragile system, order meat for the animals you live in our online store on time so that there are no gaps in feeding. Purchase longer periods in advance to get free home delivery of meat. It is important for dogs that you take care of them, because they cannot get their own food.

But diversifying food is never superfluous. Our catalog of meat and offal for dogs is constantly updated, stay tuned!

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This question is very complex and ambiguous. Everything very much depends on several factors:

  • The size of the dog;
  • Her age;
  • How active she leads.

All this greatly affects the dog's need for water. If she runs all day in the heat, then the loss of fluid is much greater than if she lies in a cool apartment on the sofa. Accordingly, she needs to replenish the liquid more and more often. Young dogs are always more active and their metabolism is also faster.

The general formula for medium-sized adult dogs is something like this: if your animal is in normal conditions (average air temperature, no exhausting exercise), then he needs about 40 milliliters of water per kilogram of body weight per day.

How much water does your dog need? This question is more difficult to answer. We recommend taking this formula as a mandatory minimum. For young dogs, this figure will be much higher (you can safely multiply by two).

And there is another important rule: the smaller the dog, the higher the requirement per kilogram. Consider this when feeding: if you give food, then make sure that there is a full bowl of water. Otherwise, you may face the problem of dehydration.

Please note that if you are in the heat and outdoors, and your dog frolics and enjoys life, then water must be available to him at all times.

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There is no definite answer, as always, it depends on several main factors:

  • Pet's age
  • Sex
  • Period in his life

First of all, of course, age matters. Namely: is it possible to consider your dog as an adult, or is it still a puppy. We all know that a growing body is in dire need of constant nourishment. Therefore, there is a key feature in feeding puppies: they must be given food at least 6 times a day. At the same time, the amount of food that the puppy receives at one time should not be large.

Differences in the nutrition of an adult dog directly depend on gender and period of life. Let's analyze them in more detail. For normal life, an adult dog needs 2-3 meals a day. Moreover, you yourself accustom the dog to food on time and you can control its satiety by serving size and type of meat. There are no fundamental features here. It’s convenient for you to feed twice a day (before leaving for work and upon returning home) - feed like that, just keep in mind that in the morning you need to give out such a portion that is enough until the evening. You have the opportunity to feed three times - redistribute the portions and let's also at lunch.

But for females during the breeding season, the rules change fundamentally. This period is considered all the time from mating to the end of lactation. Carrying and then feeding puppies is a very energy-consuming period for dogs. Meat should be given more often and more, 3-4 times a day. This is a guarantee of health for both the mother and her children. When the puppies transition to normal food, you can gradually return to the usual feeding schedule. The key word here is "gradually".

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It is ideal for puppies to stay under their mother for at least a week, to receive at least some mother's milk. If they do not receive colostrum in the first day of life, the likelihood of survival drops sharply.

To replace natural food for very young dogs (namely mother's milk) we need:

  • 100 g cow's or goat's milk;
  • 1 raw chicken egg;
  • Liquid vitamins A and D;
  • 1 teaspoon of sugar.

Shake the egg, pour it into milk and strain through cheesecloth. Add the rest of the ingredients and heat to 30 degrees. ATTENTION! No need to boil!

This simple but miraculous mixture is what we will use as our main product for puppies. Sugar is optional, you can not add. We do not recommend excluding vitamins: they are very important for the weak body of a newborn, especially given the circumstances in which he finds himself.

We will feed either through a pipette (but not a glass one!), or through a bottle with a nipple. The choice depends on the breed and size of the puppies. On sale you can find special bottles and even devices for feeding.

Now about how and how much to give this milk. We have 100 g of product that one puppy can rely on for a day in the very first days of his life. If the puppy is five days old, then he already needs 120 g, if ten - then 200 g, and from the fifteenth day - 300 g. All this time we feed him ourselves. After 15 days, we begin to accustom to a saucer.

It can be calculated differently: we take the puppy's weight and give him milk as a percentage of this weight. A three-day one needs 15-20%, a weekly one - 22-25%, a two-week one - 30-32%, a three-week one - 32-40%.

On the 21st day, we start feeding in the form of skewers and cereals. At this moment, you can start ordering offal for dogs from us. Online store "Naturalka" is ready to help you.

Feeding frequency up to two weeks of age - every two hours with a break for the night (for 6 hours). We feed, holding it in our arms, trying to imitate its natural position: the front paws are free, the hind legs rest against something.

When our baby (or babies) turns the first anniversary, a month, we can switch to normal six meals a day. We buy meat and organ meats for dogs and follow our instructions for feeding puppies.

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A sign of fullness of puppies is their calm sleep, while hungry puppies are restless, crawling and whining. Puppies that are lagging behind in growth should be placed to the rear nipples, as the most milky ones.

Puppies should start with milk. At the same time, fresh whole, slightly warmed (up to 27-30 ') milk is fed. The best milk is goat's or sheep's, since the composition of the milk of these animals is close to that of a dog's milk. In order for cow's milk to be closer in composition to dog's milk, 1 raw chicken egg per 0.5 - 1 liter is added to it.

First, milk is fed from an ordinary bottle, on which a nipple is put on, later, when the puppies begin to see, they are taught to drink (lap). To do this, milk is poured into a small saucer, and the puppy gently pokes his muzzle into it. After one or two times, the puppy learns to drink milk by itself. From now on, a small amount of white bread is added to the milk, liquid milk porridges from semolina or oatmeal are added, adding one fresh chicken egg per 5-6 puppies.

The amount of milk is normalized, and in the first week one puppy needs a little less faceted glass, in the second - a glass, in the third and fourth weeks - 2-3 glasses per day.

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Not all dogs grow and develop in the same way. And this is a very important point, because the readiness of the puppy to receive meat food depends on this. There are so-called fast-growing dogs (for example, the Basset Hound), and there are dogs with a slow pace of development. Therefore, first find out what type your breed belongs to.

The main principle by which we will determine whether it is already possible to feed a puppy with adult food is the presence and condition of the teeth. You can feed with a scraper already in the second or third week, her baby will be able to chew without problems. Please note that in fast growing dogs it is very important to keep track of the change of teeth. This is one of the main indicators of the correct development of the puppy. They begin to change around the fourth month. If the replacement does not occur, then it is better to consult a veterinarian, because this indicates a developmental delay.

You can give your puppy an adult diet from about six months. By the ninth month, the dog should already be eating like an adult. And it's not just about the amount of food, but also about the schedule. Introduction to an adult diet should be gradual, accompanying the growth of the dog.

Please note that 6 months is a very conditional figure. Some breeds can switch to a full-fledged diet earlier. The dog, as we said, begins to be fed with meat from two to three weeks, gradually increasing the pieces, expanding the diet with bones. In other words, if you see that the puppy chews the pieces with pleasure and without any problems, there is no need to limit him in this.

In fact, this moment of transition for most dog breeders will happen intuitively and naturally.

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You can always buy meat and offal of consistently high quality in our store. Our goods are packaged in very convenient trays.

Raw meat contains more nutrients than cooked meat. However, raw meat is a good breeding ground for microorganisms, so raw meat may contain helminth larvae.

However, thoroughly FROZEN meat is absolutely safe when raw. Microorganisms simply cannot withstand such low temperatures. The meat and offal that we offer in our store are frozen after processing at a temperature of minus 28 degrees. This is more than enough to kill all parasites.

Making purchases in our store, you can be sure of the high quality, which is confirmed by all the necessary documents. Ask our courier to present the papers - our courier carries veterinary certificates with him.

Defrost meat slowly: place the tray in cold water by running it into the sink, or use the refrigerator (not to be confused with the freezer)!

Frozen meat is warmed to room temperature before feeding. It is not recommended to give dogs frozen or highly chilled meat.

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Meat for predatory animals is the most natural food. In this respect, cats are practically no different from dogs. Many studies show that cats are even big carnivores, because, unlike dogs, they eat much less vegetable matter in the wild. However, something else is important for us: if both a cat and a dog are predators, then for both dogs and cats food of non-meat origin is not natural food. Therefore, both of these animals, of course, eat meat, and this is the norm for them.

Individual animals may have many reasons why they should not eat meat, such as being allergic to a specific type of meat, having digestive problems in the acute phase, etc. But initially, as a species, both cats and dogs not only can eat meat, but must by nature.

As for the specific selection of diet, then here cats differ not too significantly from dogs. By and large, only pork is completely prohibited, as it has too much fat content. But in general, the issue of fat content is essentially decisive here, since fatty meat causes indigestion and stomach problems. Beef, lamb, some types of poultry - all this is possible and acceptable.

Offal, of course, is especially well suited to feed. They are not only cheap to the owner, but in many respects much healthier than meat. If we consider the amount of vital substances, vitamins and trace elements, then the usual liver and heart contain them in much larger quantities than a piece of fresh tenderloin. By mixing all this in the diet, you get the very vitamin-mineral complex that is so actively offered to you on the box of dry food. Only your pet receives it in its natural form and without impurities, cereals and meat production waste, which form the basis of dry food.

There are some restrictions regarding the bones that must be observed: for example, boiled porous bones should not be given. But they are true for both cats and dogs.

What then is the difference between feeding a dog and a cat? - At the rate of! Cats are smaller than dogs, but natural dog food and cat food are the same except for size.

To put it quite simply, a cat can eat less meat in a certain period, and in one meal, and swallow it all at once. Therefore, she can buy meat less often and needs to be cut smaller than a dog. However, crumbling into minced meat is also not recommended, it is necessary that the animal chews the pieces, and does not swallow the meat mass.

Once again, as with any pet, you need to carefully monitor the diet and consult a veterinarian when choosing the right diet.

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What should be the servings?

In the summer, with 4 times feeding, it is most correct to distribute the ration as follows:

- at 6 o'clock in the morning give 25% of the daily ration,

- at 12 o'clock - 20%,

- at 16 o'clock - 20%,

- at 19hours - 35%.

With 3 feedings:

- in the morning they give 20% of food,

- at noon - 40%,

- in the evening - 40%.

With 2 feedings:

- 40% of the food is given in the first feeding,

- 60% of the daily ration in the second feeding.

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How to feed your dog

← Back to the blog0378 February 12, 2016

How much food should you give your dog per day?

The right amount of food is established empirically for each dog, but there are also general recommendations. If you are feeding food, the package will always indicate what size portion should be, depending on the size of the dog. This is important because food is a balanced set of elements that a dog needs.

If the dog is very active, the recommended serving can be slightly increased. If the dog is very, very lazy, on the contrary, reduce it. The main thing is that the weight of the dog remains constant. In the heat, the portion can be reduced, because dogs are usually lethargic, and they do not need an extra load. In winter, a dog needs more energy and nutrients.

How many times a day should you feed your dog?

Puppies eat constantly and as much as they want. This is probably why, even growing up, they require the same regularity of feeding. But you can’t succumb to persuasion and cute eyes. The older the dog, the less often it needs to be fed:

  • 2 months - 3-4 times a day
  • 3-6 months - 3 times a day
  • 6-12 months - 2 times a day
  • From a year - 1-2 times a day

You can feed the average dog twice a day in equal portions. If there are no problems with weight and activity, everything is fine.

How to understand that the dog is full?

The dog itself will never say this. Yes, she won't understand. Dogs practically do not feel full and will eat like pigeons on the street - until the food is over.

You can navigate like this. If after eating the dog asks for a supplement, this is normal, but you should not give the dog as much as he wants. If the dog looked at you offendedly and went to sleep, then everything is in order. If the dog goes to the kitchen all day to rattle his bowl, it's quite different. Either the dog is really not eating enough, and you need to increase the portion, or it's time to go to the veterinarian.

The dog is constantly begging for food. Is she hungry?

Begging in dogs is a matter of education. Unlike cats, dogs do not feel full at all and can eat as long as the food fits in the stomach. If the dog constantly demands food, it is worth going to the veterinarian, because the problem may be related to health. If the dog got tired and went to sleep without receiving supplements, everything is in order.

I think the dog is skinny. Need more food?

First, find out if she is really thin. People have their own ideas about how a beautiful dog should look. And far from always these ideas correspond to the physiology of a healthy animal. A dog in good shape has a visible waist. The ribs do not stick out, but they are easily felt by hand when stroking.

How to calculate the amount of natural feed?

The amount of food for the whole day is calculated as follows:

  • Puppies up to 6 months - 6% of the dog's weight
  • Dogs over 6 months - 3-4% of the dog's weight

That is, if you have a two-year-old Jack Russell weighing 8 kg, he is entitled to 250-300 grams of food. But since this breed is known for its hyperactivity, the portion can be increased.

What should be in a dog's diet?

If you feed with food, then nothing else is needed. Natural nutrition should contain approximately 40-50% meat, 30% dairy products and the rest - fiber. For example, it can be cottage cheese and kefir with bran in the morning and meat in the evening. Periodically treat with vegetables and fruits.

Why can't you give your dog pork?

It is generally believed that dogs should not eat pork due to its fat content. This is only partly true. Pork takes longer to digest, raises cholesterol levels, and is more likely to harbor parasites. Beef is leaner, yes, but not all parts of it. There are also thick layers of fat in beef that can end up in a dog's bowl.

What can you feed a dog to be useful?

You can feed vegetables and unsweetened fruits. Cucumbers, apples, grated carrots, celery.

Can dry and wet food be mixed?

You can't mix. And it's not just that one is dry and the other is wet. Feed is an accurate calculation of useful elements, first of all. The portion of dry food has exactly calculated size for a certain size of dog. The same goes for wet food. If you mix both types of feed, it will no longer be possible to calculate the balance. The dog will either receive less of the necessary elements, or receive them in excess. As a result, the dog is threatened with malnutrition or obesity.

Secondly, a dog's stomach digests dry and wet food differently. This requires different times and different enzymes. If all this is in the stomach at the same time, it threatens to disrupt the microflora and the stable functioning of the gastrointestinal tract.

The dog eats food. Is it possible to give ordinary food if it is over?

Dogs should absolutely not be given mixed food, no matter what you mix. Feed dry food - only feed it. The same goes for natural food. If you forgot to go to the store, the dog can be patient. Trust me, nothing bad will happen to her. A missed meal is not as bad as some indigestion or worse.

Can I give my dog ​​food from the table?

Usually on the table we have something salty, fried and peppered. All this can not be eaten by a dog. You can give a cucumber or unsweetened fruit. Vegetables are good for dogs.

Do not give sweets to dogs at all. Especially cakes and chocolates. Chocolate is a form of poison for dogs. Of course, a little candy won't hurt. But if you recklessly forgot a chocolate bar on the nightstand and went to work, there may be problems. Chocolate contains theobromine, which affects the heart and central nervous system of dogs. Dark chocolate with a high content of theobromine is the most dangerous. If a dog eats a large amount of chocolate, this can lead to sad consequences. The main symptoms of poisoning are nausea, diarrhea, hyperactivity, heart palpitations, impaired coordination.

Why can't you give bones to a dog?

Many dogs eat bones, but that doesn't make them any less dangerous. A dog gnaws a bone into thousands, thousands of small sharp fragments! All of them enter the stomach. Something is digested, the rest is compressed and goes through the intestines, turning into a huge prickly hedgehog, with sharp fragments sticking out in all directions. This is the main danger. A rare dog spits out fragments when it gnaws something, usually everything is swallowed with excitement. If you're not prepared to keep an eye on every bit of chewed bone, it's best not to give dogs bones at all.

What bones should not be given to a dog?

The correct answer is none.


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