What to feed baby red ear sliders

How to Care For a Baby Red-Eared Slider

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Adopting a new pet is exciting, especially if you get to bond with them from when they’re a baby! Knowing how to care for your baby red-eared slider is essential to their survival early on, as they are very fragile animals in their first year or so of life. Although most of their care needs are the same as those for adult red-eared sliders, baby turtles have a few extra special requirements, like additional vitamin supplements and a mostly animal protein-based diet to facilitate their growth.

Thankfully, this guide will cover everything you need to know to keep your baby red-eared slider healthy! Read on as I cover the basics, like enclosure size and setup, as well as some lesser-known care tips.

What Enclosure is Best For a Baby Red-Eared Slider?

Baby red-eared sliders can be kept in a small starter enclosure, but they prefer having at least 75 gallons of space.

©Akash Naik/Shutterstock.com

For baby red-eared sliders, a 30 to 50-gallon tank is sufficient while the turtle is less than 6 inches long. However, keep in mind that sliders grow very quickly and reach their adult size within only a year or two. Many turtles also continue growing well into their adulthood! You’ll need a much larger enclosure, or at least 75 to 100 gallons, for a full-sized slider.

You have two options when it comes to enclosure sizes for a baby red-eared slider. Depending on your slider’s exact age, they are likely somewhere between 3 and 5 inches long. You could potentially place the baby turtle in a smaller, temporary enclosure until they reach their full size, and then transfer them to a larger tank later. Alternatively, you could simply buy a full-sized enclosure and place your baby slider in it from the start.

There’s a common misconception in the reptile hobbyist community that baby reptiles become overwhelmed by very large enclosures. However, this is actually not the case with the vast majority of species, including red-eared sliders! In fact, baby reptiles typically enjoy having extra space to roam around. 

I highly recommend going ahead and buying a 75 to 100-gallon enclosure rather than buying a temporary setup and switching later. While it seems like you’ll save money early on by buying a less expensive tank, you’ll need a larger setup much sooner than you think!

There are a few different enclosure styles on the market that are suitable for red-eared sliders. These include standard rectangular glass aquariums, more elaborate custom builds, and even indoor and outdoor ponds. All are excellent choices, as long as they have plenty of space, adequate warmth and humidity, and lots of clean water.

Setting Up a Baby Red-Eared Slider Habitat

Adequate warmth for basking is necessary for your baby slider’s growth and development.

©iStock.com/:Marina Vedernikova

Once you’ve chosen a suitable enclosure, it’s time to properly furnish it so it’s ready for your new pet. For a baby red-eared slider habitat, you’ll need the following supplies:

  • Heat/basking lighting
  • UVB lighting (5%+ to 10% output is highly recommended)
  • Substrate (ideally large, smooth river rocks or gravel)
  • Temperature and humidity gauges
  • A high-quality water filter
  • Minimal decorations (plants, rocks, hides, etc.)

What’s great about this particular setup is it’s also perfectly suitable for an adult red-eared slider! Most, if not all, of the supplies you’ll need to care for a baby red-eared slider are also necessary for an adult’s enclosure. 

However, the arrangement of your decor, rocks, substrate, and even the water level are particularly important when it comes to baby turtles! Baby sliders are very fragile and can become injured easily by falls or even if their water is too deep, cold, or hot.

Make sure your slider has plenty of access to platforms, shallow areas, and rocks so they can emerge from the water without a struggle while they’re still learning to swim. The water’s deepest point should only be about twice as deep as the length of your slider’s entire body.

As far as temperature and humidity go, babies also mostly require the same settings as adult sliders. An 85F to 95F air temperature, 75F to 85F water temperature, and a humidity level of around 75% is ideal. Having at least one, if not two, temperature and humidity gauges is a good idea to monitor and prevent any significant fluctuations.

Finally, keep the water as clean as possible and check your water filter often. Baby turtles are incredibly susceptible to illnesses while their immune systems are still developing. A clean enclosure free of any harmful bacteria is absolutely essential to your baby red-eared slider’s care and overall health.

What Do Baby Red-Eared Sliders Eat?

Baby red-eared sliders need to eat lots of animal protein to grow big and strong.


Red-eared sliders are omnivorous, so they prefer to eat a combination of plant and animal matter. However, baby sliders require more animal protein compared to plant matter to facilitate their growth and development early on. They especially enjoy eating the following feeder insects, arthropods, and invertebrates:

  • Mealworms
  • Earthworms
  • Shrimp
  • Snails
  • Tadpoles
  • Crickets
  • Small fish

As far as plant matter goes, the following vegetables are all great choices:

  • Dark, leafy greens (Collard, turnip, dandelion, mustard, etc.)
  • Squash
  • Carrots
  • Green beans
  • Bell peppers

Finally, a small amount of the following fruits are safe as occasional treats:

  • Apples
  • Strawberries
  • Mangoes
  • Blueberries
  • Bananas

Additionally, baby red-eared sliders must eat more frequently than adults due to their rapid metabolisms at such a young age. While adult turtles only need to eat two or three times a week, babies should eat once per day. Once your turtle is six months old, you can start feeding them less frequently, or about every other day.

A good rule of thumb is to feed your slider as much as they will eat within a 10 to 15-minute period. Keep their food items small, or at least smaller than the width of the space between their eyes. This will minimize the risk of choking and impaction.

It’s also a good idea to buy a calcium and vitamin D3 supplement for your slider’s meals. These vitamin supplements are beneficial to most reptiles’ bone and muscle growth and development. Most supplements for reptiles are powdered so you can easily sprinkle them atop any animal or plant matter.

When Should Your Slider See a Veterinarian?

Make sure your baby turtle sees a reptile veterinarian at least once within their first year of life, even if they don’t show any signs of illness or injury!


Once you’ve brought your red-eared slider home and set up their enclosure, they should see a reptile veterinarian as soon as possible. I recommend a check-up at least once a year, though twice a year is even better for baby sliders if you can afford it.

Since baby red-eared sliders are so fragile and prone to illnesses and injuries, seeing a veterinarian at the first sign of trouble is crucial. It’s also a good idea to keep at least $500 on hand for potential medical emergencies. But don’t just wait until your turtle starts displaying troublesome symptoms to get them veterinary attention! An annual or biannual check-up can help you spot potential illnesses early on before they become severe (and more expensive to treat).

Common health issues include respiratory infections, parasite infestations, and calcium deficiencies. These can all be prevented with a hygienic enclosure setup, a nutritious diet, and correct temperature and humidity settings. Of course, the keen eye and guidance of a reptile veterinarian is also very valuable!

Most importantly, keep a close watch on your pet’s day-to-day behavior. Sick reptiles tend to not show their symptoms until their situation becomes dire. This is mostly a self-defense mechanism to prevent themselves from looking weak to potential predators. Even if your slider trusts you, they may still hide their symptoms out of instinct if they become ill.

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About the Author

Hailey Pruett is a freelance content writer, editor, and lifelong animal lover living in Tennessee with their spoiled cat, grumpy leopard gecko, and loving partner. Their favorite animals are lizards, turtles, snakes, and frogs. When they aren't obsessively writing about how awesome reptiles and amphibians are, Hailey is usually playing relaxing life simulator video games and obscure, old-school RPGs. They are non-binary and comfortable with any pronouns.

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8 Tips For Feeding & Caring For Baby Red Eared Sliders

A red eared slider is a fun, unique, and interesting pet. They are one of the most popular pet turtles in the world.

Baby red eared sliders are one of the cutest reptiles, it is tempting to get one as a pet. But before you do, take time to consider the care and feeding needs of these tiny turtles. Hatchlings start life no bigger than the size of a quarter!

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It is possible to buy this turtle species in the United States. But, selling and buying turtles under four inches long is illegal.

If you have your heart set on a baby red eared slider, continue reading. We discuss the best feeding and husbandry tips for raising a healthy, happy turtle. We also share how to spot a good breeder and where to find one…

Table of Contents

  • 1. Buyer’s Guide
  • 2. Baby Red Eared Slider Habitat
  • 3. Baby Red Eared Slider Tank Setup
  • 4. How To Care For Baby Red Eared Slider Turtles
  • 5. Baby Red Eared Slider Diet
  • 6. Why Is My Red Eared Slider Turtle Not Eating?
  • 7. Is My Turtle Male or Female?
  • 8. Handling
  • Summary

1. Buyer’s Guide

Many irresponsible owners have released their pets into the wild. It is considered to be invasive in many states.

Baby Red Eared Sliders can be found for sale at many reptile expos or from private breeders online.

We do not recommend taking a baby slider from the wild, especially if they are not invasive in your area. Wild red eared sliders often do not live as long as pet species. They are also more likely to carry parasites and disease.

When looking for a breeder, you will want to find one with good reviews and a high standard of husbandry and knowledge. Look for a breeder who is transparent and is willing to respond to questions. Don’t be afraid to reach out to several potential sellers to compare their responses.

Avoid any breeder offering to sell a baby under four inches in length. Responsible breeders will only sell young adults or older juveniles.

The sale of turtles under four inches long is illegal in the United States, and has been since 1975.

Purchasing a healthy baby turtle will increase the chances of it growing into a heathy adult.

You will also need to decide on what morph of slider you want.

The most common red eared slider baby is the wild-type. Most wild-type sliders sell for $30 to $60. Private breeders sell specialty morphs like hypo pastel, albino, ghost, leucistic and piebald too. Rarer morphs like caramel and charcoal are sold for $1,000.

Why Are Baby Red-Eared Sliders Illegal?

The Food and Drug Administration outlawed the sale of all small turtles under four inches in size. This is because of the increased risk of a person contracting salmonella from these tiny reptiles.

A hatchling turtle’s small size makes it much more likely for young children to kiss it, or handle it without washing their hands. This leads to them contracting salmonella.

While baby turtles are more likely to cause salmonella outbreaks, turtles of all ages can carry this type of bacteria. There is no way to tell whether or not an individual turtle can make you sick. It is best to always wash your hands after handling it or any of its tank décor.

2. Baby Red Eared Slider Habitat

Baby red eared sliders need a proper and safe habitat to stay healthy and happy. Before getting a turtle make sure you can provide them with everything in the list below:

  • Controlled Temperature: Baby red eared sliders are sensitive to sudden changes in temperature. Drops in temperature can cause pneumonia. Before adding your turtle to its tank, make sure the temperatures are holding steady in their normal range.
  • Omnivorous Diet: Baby sliders eat vegetation, moths, earthworms, crustaceans, tadpoles, snails, and any other small animal they can catch in the wild. Their diet is not limited to one thing, so you should not feed them just one prey. A varied diet is both nutritionally and mentally enriching. It also helps them to get a full range of vitamins.
  • Clean Water: Young red eared sliders need very clean water for swimming and drinking. Use an aquarium pump to circulate and filter tank water. You should also test the water once a week for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels.
  • Stress-Free Tank: Even if their tank setup is perfect, your baby red ear can still become stressed if the environment around the tank is too noisy or busy. Keep your turtle’s enclosure in a calm, quiet room that is out of the reach of dogs, cats, or small children. Your slider will spend much less time hiding and more time basking, swimming, and exploring if it feels safe in its surroundings.
  • Tank mates: Sliders can share a tank with fish, but this adds some extra challenges for tank cleanliness and turtle health. Babies should generally not be kept with any fish larger than guppies. However, for first time keepers, we would avoid keeping tank mates.

3. Baby Red Eared Slider Tank Setup

For every inch of your turtle’s shell length you will need to provide them with a minimum of 10 gallons of space. For adult sliders, this can mean purchasing a tank up to 120-gallons.

Because these turtles grow fast, you may want to consider buying an adult-sized tank to save money. While it may look strange to have a baby turtle in a 100+ gallon tank, your turtle will quickly grow to fill it.

Sliders are aquatic and need clean, chemical-free water to swim in.

Fill the tank with water at least twice as deep as your baby’s shell. Even as hatchlings, red eared sliders are excellent swimmers, you don’t need to worry about them drowning.

Though they love water, sliders also need land for basking and drying out.

The land area should cover no more than a third of the tank’s surface area. It should be large enough for your turtle to move around on.


Baby red eared sliders bask in direct sunlight in the wild. As pets, this is usually not possible as glass or plastic tanks should never be placed in direct sunlight. Instead, heat and light bulbs are used to mimic sunlight.

Turtles need both UVB and UVA lighting to stay healthy and active.

Use an ultraviolet fluorescent bulb to provide your baby slider with plenty of UV light. The light source should be securely suspended 24 inches above your turtle’s basking platform. It should also not be blocked by plastic or glass as this will filter out the UV.

Baby sliders also need a heat bulb. This can be in the form of a ceramic heater or heat lamp, as long as it warms the air and basking spot.

They thrive in water and ambient air temperatures of between 75°F and 85°F. Basking temperatures on the surface of the basking spot should be 90 to 95°F.

Monitor water, surface, and air temperatures with a thermometer to keep your baby red eared slider healthy.

Why Is My Baby Red-Eared Slider Not Basking?

Baby sliders will not bask for two reasons:

  • They can’t reach the basking platform.
  • The water and air temperatures are not correct.

A basking platform needs to be easily accessible, stable, and dry. Use a gently sloping ramp from the water to the basking spot to help your turtle reach the platform.

Even if they can reach the basking spot, turtles will not bask if the water temperatures are too high and/or the air and basking temperatures are too low.

4. How To Care For Baby Red Eared Slider Turtles

Babies are more likely to get sick because of their developing immune system.

Caring for a baby red eared slider is different than caring for an adult slider.

Adult sliders are hardy, but babies are more susceptible to illnesses.

Young and older species will need a large tank (with land and water), an omnivorous diet (plant and meat) and warm temperatures. However, the immune systems of baby sliders are still immature. This makes them more sensitive to their environment.

Baby sliders need smaller temperature ranges, more frequent feeding and a very clean tank.

Frequent tank cleaning, consistent temperature checks, and a quality diet are the best ways to prevent a sick turtle. Creating a care schedule is a great idea for new turtle owners.

MondayFeed, spot clean
TuesdayFeed, spot clean and check temperatures
WednesdayFeed, spot clean and handle turtle to check health
ThursdayFeed, spot clean
FridayFeed, spot clean and check temperatures
SaturdayFeed, spot clean
SundayFeed, partial water change, check water quality

Schedules are helpful for keeping up with cleaning, feeding, checking temperatures and water quality. Sticking to a schedule reduces stress and makes caring for your baby slider much easier. It also provides stability for your turtle.

The most important part of caring for a new slider is cleanliness.

Sliders create a lot of waste, mostly in their swimming area. If not cleaned properly, dirty water will increase the risk of illness, infections, and even sudden death. Water that looks clear may still be high in the toxic ammonia and nitrites caused by decaying food and waste.

To keep their tank clean scoop out any uneaten food or visible waste every day. Every week use a gravel vacuum to remove 25% of the tank’s water. This water should be replaced with fresh, treated water. Test the water weekly to monitor levels of nitrates, nitrites and ammonia. Ammonia and nitrites should be 0, while nitrates should be 40 parts per million or below.

Baby red eared sliders are known to get sick quickly. They are more likely to develop infections.

It helps to be able to spot any injuries or unusual behaviors early on. Their small size can make it difficult to spot injuries, but some common signs are:

  • Lethargy
  • Refusing to eat
  • Dull eyes or shell
  • Loose droppings
  • Patches on the shell

You can also pay attention to your slider’s behavior. Knowing if your turtle is acting differently will help you catch health and husbandry issues before they become serious.

Before bringing home your baby slider, make sure you are prepared with the right setup and equipment.

It is best to have your slider’s tank up and running at least four weeks before bringing it home. This will let you cycle the tank and control temperature and filtration properly.

5. Baby Red Eared Slider Diet

Adults and babies eat the same food items, but the ratio of meat to plant and feeding frequency is different.

Baby red eared sliders are voracious eaters and should be fed every day.

A major difference between adult and baby red eared sliders is their diet:

  • Adults eat primarily a 50/50 balance of plants to meat.
  • Babies and juveniles need a 30/70 ratio of plants to meat.

One quarter of your baby slider’s protein content should come from commercial turtle food pellets. The rest should be made up of live or pre-killed animal prey. For plants, avoid water-based vegetables with low nutritional value (e.g. cucumbers, celery, and iceberg lettuce).

Here is a good list of high-protein and nutritious foods that are safe for a baby slider:

Meat / ProteinVegetables
  • Aquatic snails
  • Crickets
  • Earthworms
  • Freeze dried shrimp or krill
  • Grasshoppers
  • Guppies
  • Mealworms
  • Tadpoles
  • Wax worms
  • Carrot tops
  • Clover
  • Collard greens
  • Dandelion greens
  • Green beans
  • Kale
  • Red bell pepper
  • Romaine lettuce
  • Squash

The key to a healthy diet is variety.

Rotate food items throughout the week to provide a full range of vitamins. This will also provide enrichment and keep your slider from getting bored.

Baby red eared sliders grow quickly and need to eat more often than adults.

Feed them a portion of food the size of their head. This will be around a full tablespoon for a four inch turtle. Feed them every day until they reach six months of age, after which you can then switch to feeding every other day.

To prevent choking make sure all food is cut into bite-sized pieces. A good rule of thumb is to make sure food pieces are no larger than the distance between their eyes.

They prefer to feed in the water rather than on land.

Feeding is simple, just drop their pellets and food in to the tank.

If you are feeding in the main tank then scoop out any uneaten food after 10 minutes.

Some keepers choose to feed their slider in a separate tank. This helps to avoid making the water dirty in the main tank.

6. Why Is My Red Eared Slider Turtle Not Eating?

It is very common for a baby red eared slider to refuse food during the first three days. This is due to the stress of being introduced to a new environment.

After four days most baby sliders will start eating again.

If your slider still isn’t eating after a week, or has suddenly stopped eating, the first things you should check is:

  1. Is the water clean?
  2. Are the lights on a consistent schedule?
  3. Is the tank in a quiet and safe area?
  4. Are the temperatures in the correct range?

If the tank setup is correct then move on to check your turtle’s food.

It may be that your slider simply doesn’t like the food you are offering. You can try feeding cooked chicken or beef heart to stimulate its appetite.

7. Is My Turtle Male or Female?

In very young turtles it can be difficult to accurately determine their gender.

Determining the gender of a baby red eared slider is usually more important to breeders. However, any turtle owner can become curious as to what sex their new turtle is. If you want to know whether your slider is a male or female, there are a few tips you can use.

  • Females’ plastrons are flat (i.e. the bottom of the shell).
  • Males’ plastrons are concave (i.e. curves in towards the spine).
  • The vent of a female is closer to the edge of the shell.
  • The vent of a male is farther down the tail, positioned away from the body.
  • Males have a thicker, longer tail than females.
  • The front claws of male sliders grow much longer than females’ claws. During courtship, males will wiggle their long claws in a female’s face to get her attention.

The differences between males and females will become more obvious as they age.

Once your red eared slider reaches two years old, if it is male, it will be fully mature and have all the typical male features. Females won’t mature until they reach five years of age. This is the same for yellow bellied sliders too.

It can be hard to sex a baby red eared slider based on physical characteristics.

The best and most accurate way for finding the gender of a turtle is asking the breeder what temperature the eggs were incubated at. The gender of the hatchlings is determined by the incubation temperature. Eggs incubated at 79°F will all hatch as males, while those incubated at 88°F will all hatch as females. If incubated in between, some will be male and some female.

8. Handling

A red eared slider baby should be handled only when necessary. Turtles are usually not adaptable to being held, it can cause stress.

The best way to hold a baby red eared slider is to use your thumb and first finger on each hand in a pinching style. Have one hand on either side of the turtle and your thumbs on the bottom of the shell. Never squeeze your turtle or use more force than is necessary.

Limit the time you hold a baby red eared slider to five minutes.


There are few pets cuter than a baby red eared slider.

Remember that before buying this species, it should be over four inches in size. Buying or selling turtles smaller than four inches is against the law.

If you do decide to care for a baby red eared slider, keep in mind that they are sensitive to water quality and temperature. Clean your baby’s tank weekly to maintain pristine water conditions.

They thrive in water and ambient air temperatures of between 75°F and 85°F. Basking temperatures should be 90 to 95°F.

These turtles also need a varied diet of mostly protein to stay healthy. Feed them a portion of food the size of their head every day and rotate food items.

With the right care a baby red eared slider will keep you entertained for decades.

Let us know your best care tips below.

Red-eared tortoise - not a cheap "toy".

We have all seen how baby turtles are sold sitting in a basin or a minimum volume of an aquarium on top of each other. What sellers usually say::

- Feed once every few days, you can keep it in a regular basin or a small aquarium, very unpretentious animals

- You can add an island or a pebble so that the turtle can bask on it, nothing else is needed.

- The perfect pet for a child, no worries.

The fate of these little ones is very sad. Most of them end up in the bin before reaching the age of one. Some will be lucky enough to be taken to the doctor's office when they stop eating or their eyelids become so swollen they can't open their eyes. And here the owners are waiting for not very pleasant discoveries. But first things first.

. (northern Colombia and Venezuela). The species is introduced (inhabited) to the south of Florida, Arizona, Guadeloupe, Israel and South Africa and a number of other countries. Turtles live in shallow lakes and ponds with low, swampy shores.

It follows that the climate in these areas is temperate to tropical, where winters are warm and mild (from -5-3 0 C to +6-8 0 C), and summers are humid and hot up to 30-34 0 C. Reservoirs in which turtles live have a temperature of 10-26 0 C for 7-8 months a year, which favorably affects the growth and development of turtles.

And so, what conditions are necessary for keeping this species at home.

A Quaterrarium for one or two adult turtles is recommended for 120-150 liters, and for young turtles - 50 liters.
Equipment: special water filters, heaters, thermometers, shore or island.
Lighting: heat lamp 40-60 W (incandescent), UV lamp (ultraviolet lamp) for reptiles UVB 5-10%. Turtles stay in the sun for a long time. Thermal day in summer - 13 hours, in winter - 11 hours. During the day, the temperature in the terrarium should be 25-30 0 C with the temperature under the lamp (at the point of warming up) 35 0 C, and at night - 22 0 C.

Aquaterrarium for the red-eared turtle can be low and not wide, but must be long. The water level must be set no less than the width of the turtle's shell (i.e. more than 10 cm) so that it can roll over if it suddenly finds itself on its back. The terrarium must have a shore or land with a gently sloping rough entrance. The temperature in the aquarium should be different, in water - from 20 to 24 ° C, on land - about 30-32 o C. To maintain the temperature in the water, a special water heater is required, however, if the water temperature does not drop below normal without a heater, then there is no need for it. Water is changed as it gets dirty or a powerful filter is used. Above land, it is necessary to arrange thermal and UV lamps for reptiles at a height of at least 25-30 cm to prevent overheating. Both lamps should work 10-12 hours a day, during the daytime, and turn off or use a timer at night. Turtles most often sit on land, where they receive ultraviolet radiation, which is necessary for an active, good metabolism (digestion of food and the functioning of the gastrointestinal tract) and the prevention of diseases such as rickets (softening of bone structures and shells).

Now we know how to accommodate our new pet as comfortably as possible, but one more dilemma remains - what to feed the pet?

The genus Trachemys is predatory, but not strict, so feeding on animal food predominates, and occasionally plant foods can be used. Young red-eared turtles require more food of animal origin for active growth, so they are fed daily, but once a day. Adult turtles (larger than 7 cm or older than 1-1.5 years) are fed every 2-3 days with animal food, and in between you can add vegetable food (duckweed, hornwort, lettuce, cucumber slices). The amount of food must be selected independently, depending on how much the turtle eats. Usually for babies, the amount of food is 2-3 pieces of 1 cm 3 , for older adults - 2-3 pieces 2-3 cm 3 , or how much the turtle will eat in half an hour. Food for the red-eared turtle should be raw or scalded and at room temperature. Do not feed turtles only gammarus or dry food, this is not food for a predator!

Types of food objects that can be used for turtles:

  1. Fish (non-fat river whole with bones and entrails).
  2. Liver (beef liver, chicken heart, beef heart).
  3. Crustaceans and Insects (daphnia crustaceans, gammarus (raw or frozen), bloodworms, earthworms, crickets, legless locusts, zophobas).
  4. Other (small freshwater snails, green shrimps, tadpoles, clams, frogs, small mice, occasionally seafood may be given).
  5. Aquatic plants (duckweed, water hyacinth, pistia, hornwort, etc.) can serve as plant food, as well as meadow grasses that are not poisonous for turtles (dandelion, clover, plantain, mallow, lamb, gout), or store salads, thin layers of carrots, cucumber.
  6. It is allowed to keep forage fish (guppies, barbs, neons and others), snails and aquatic plants in a turtle aquarium, but all this will be eaten rather quickly.
  7. Dry food can be part of the diet only if it is in granules and from foreign companies (Tetra, Sera, JBL).

Do not feed: meat (any minced meat, sausages, sausage, beef, pork, lamb, chicken, etc.), fatty fish, fruits, bread, cheese.

Turtles are best fed in a separate container, as they eat very dirty, or equip the aquaterrarium with a strong water filter.

In the presence of an ultraviolet lamp, the necessary conditions (including temperature) in the aquaterrarium, the right balanced food, the turtle does not need vitamin and calcium supplements. However, if the diet is not well thought out and the conditions are not ideal, the turtle must receive vitamins and calcium. To do this, calcium and vitamins are added to the feed or sprinkled with it and fed with tweezers.

We would be happy if you familiarize yourself with these rules BEFORE purchasing a turtle and evaluate your options. And we hope that you will create suitable living conditions for your pets and they will delight you for many years!

Veterinarian Tretyachenko D.A.

care and treatment - how and how to cure atopic dermatitis in a child

Atopic dermatitis is a chronic skin disease. Due to a violation of biochemical processes, excessive dryness, peeling, redness occur, inflammatory processes develop, itching is felt. It develops under the influence of allergens, and is often combined with bronchial asthma, food allergies, and allergic rhinitis. It manifests itself in the first years of life, more often up to 12 months or at the age of 2-3 years, when the children's diet expands and many allergen products enter it. With proper treatment and care, the disease enters the stage of a stable, long-term remission, but it can manifest itself in adolescents, young and old people when they come into contact with allergens, weaken the immune system, and after stress.


Children with atopic dermatitis develop tightness of the skin, redness, flaky skin, feel rougher to the touch, thickening may appear. Microscopic bubbles form, around which moisture is released. The child is worried, combing the affected areas. When an infection enters, local inflammation develops, the wounds do not heal well. With a significant spread in young children, general intoxication of the body is manifested: the temperature rises, peripheral lymph nodes increase. Due to severe itching, sleep and appetite are disturbed, the child often cries. Dermatitis most often affects the face, neck, armpits, scalp, groin, areas under the earlobes, popliteal fossae, elbows.


Atopy is translated from Latin as oddity. The causes of the disease are not always possible to establish. But long-term observation of patients and members of their families made it possible to establish that it develops more often:

  • with a genetic predisposition - if the parents are healthy, the probability of developing dermatitis in a child is 20%, if one of them is sick - 50%, if both - 80%;
  • in case of unfavorable course of pregnancy, active or passive smoking of the expectant mother, eating food that provokes allergy attacks, taking certain medications;
  • when a newborn is in a dusty room, insufficient care for his personal hygiene;
  • with prolonged exposure to allergens that enter the child's body with food through the respiratory tract.

Breastfeeding up to 6 months and avoiding allergic foods reduces the chance of developing atopic dermatitis.

How to feed a child with atopic dermatitis

In order not to provoke an exacerbation of dermatitis, to relieve itching and redness of the skin, you need to follow a diet. Products that load the immune system are excluded from the children's diet: citrus fruits, chocolate, eggs, honey, seafood. Red (strawberries, cherries, currants, apples) and exotic (mangoes, coconuts, pineapples) fruits are dangerous.

Partial meals are recommended: small portions every 3-4 hours. Products are best boiled, stewed, baked, but not fried. Do not use spices, black pepper. The diet should be balanced and contain enough protein, vitamins, trace elements.

Avoid sugary sodas, chips, crackers, and other snacks for as long as possible. If the baby is breastfeeding, introduce new foods carefully. Add foods once a week to make sure it doesn't cause breakouts. After meals and between meals, offer your baby clean boiled water.

Skin care

To relieve itching and prevent infection of the affected skin, you need to properly care for the skin: cleanse, but do not dry the skin;

  • moisturizing and softening - the skin should not be dry to prevent peeling, cracking, regularly apply a moisturizer recommended by a dermatologist;
  • do not let the child scratch the affected areas, so as not to infect the infection - apply to the atopic areas of the means that relieve itching.
  • Cream or gel removes discomfort during an exacerbation and allows you to sleep, eat, play peacefully. Apply the drug to cleansed skin, treat atopic lesions and areas around them. Do not exceed the recommended dosage and frequency of use.

    Rating of the best remedies for atopic dermatitis

    For the treatment of atopic dermatitis, use special children's products recommended by a dermatologist. In the period of exacerbations, preparations are prescribed for oral administration, application to atopic areas and general body care:

    • preparations for removing allergens from the body - Enterosgel, Laktrofiltrum, Enterodez;
    • skin softeners - Atopic cream for daily care;
    • anti-itch preparations - Panthenol spray;
    • bath products - soft shower gels for atopic dermatitis should be bought at the pharmacy: dermatologists recommend using Atopic bathing gel from head to toe.


    After a light shower that cleanses the entire body, apply Atopic Bathing Gel to damp skin from head to toe, massage gently and rinse thoroughly. Dry your baby with a soft towel, blotting but not rubbing. After water treatment, apply Atopic skin softening cream for daily care. Apply it several times during the day: after washing your hands and washing your face.

    When taking a bath, the water temperature should not exceed 36 degrees. Put the child in the water, offer him toys or other entertainment. After 5-7 minutes, apply Atopic bathing gel from head to toe, rinse well. After bathing, use Atopic cream for daily care, and if itching bothers you, let the cream soak in, and then treat the affected skin with an itch reliever.

    How to choose products that are right for your child

    A dermatologist can recommend more than one product to choose from. They have a similar mechanism of action, but their price can vary significantly. It depends on the active and excipients, the manufacturer, the form of release. When choosing a cream for atopic skin of a child, it is necessary to take into account the possible individual intolerance of individual components.

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