Baby angelfish food

What Do You Feed Angelfish Fry? — Just Fishkeeping

Angelfish fry are so small and delicate that only certain foods are suitable for them. Baby brine shrimp and micro worms, for example, are small organisms and full of vital nutrients. This allows the tiny mouths of the fry to handle the food. It also gives them the resources necessary to grow to a large size at a rapid pace.

Baby brine shrimp, vinegar eels, and micro worms are the best foods for angelfish fry. These can be fed as soon as the fry reach the free-swimming stage. Prior to this, fry are sustained by their remaining yolk sacs and do not need to be fed. Once the fry are prepared for meals, they will need to be fed 2-4 a day.

Commercial fry foods are available, but you can use hard-boiled egg yolk slurries if live food is limited. To increase the odds of your delicate angelfish fry surviving, provide them with a varied diet. Choose more than one type of live food, and avoid frozen or dried kinds. As soon as the fry are free-swimming, offer a meal, since the tank’s natural infusoria cultures won’t sustain them for long.

What Do You Feed Baby Angelfish?

Angelfish fry are very small when they first hatch. Don’t mistake this tiny size for a tiny appetite. Angelfish fry need lots of nutrient-packed food, provided in multiple feeds each day. Rich, high-quality food is essential for increasing the number of fry that survive.

Experienced angelfish breeders maintain cultures of various foods to ensure that angelfish fry remain healthy. These include:

Brine shrimp
Vinegar eels
Micro worms

Although cultures can be quite pungent, they allow you to produce high-quality food easily. In the early days of free-swimming, fry can only eat freshly hatched brine shrimp and micro worms. Anything else, including older shrimp and worms, are too big.

Can Angelfish Fry Eat Frozen Food?

Frozen options aren’t as nutritious or ideal in the first few weeks. They will suffice if that is all that you can source. The same applies to other commercially-available foods designed for fry at all stages. Be sure to thaw or pre-soak them before feeds.

If you want to offer a varied diet, or can’t find food small enough for baby angelfish, use:

Hard-boiled egg yolks
Egg yolk powder

When Do Angelfish Fry Start Eating?

Angelfish fry are sustained by their still-attached yolk sacs for the first week of life. In a way, they are eating from the moment they hatch.

Fry begin eating external food sources toward the end of this first week. This is when the yolk depletes and the fry must rely on food provided by yourself, or by natural cultures in the tank.

Will Angelfish Feed Their Fry?

Angelfish parents will protect their eggs and fry with a single-minded drive. They will not, however, provide food for their young. Unlike some species of fish, angelfish make their babies fend for themselves.

You may see the adult pair hovering over their fry as they become free-swimming and begin searching for food. This is a protective instinct, not the adults guiding fry to food sources.

Be aware that if you reach into the tank to feed the fry, the parents will attack you. It can be startling, especially if your angelfish usually respond in a more friendly way.

Unlike other cichlids, the teeth of the angelfish are located in their throat, not their jaws. Their bites won’t hurt overly much.

Will Angelfish Eat Their Fry?

Parent angelfish can eat their own young. This may be the result of stress or confusion. They may also eat a few of their eggs before they hatch. This is a natural behavior, serving as a way for the parents to remove dead eggs from the clutch.

It’s also very common for other fish in the tank to devour the fry. Even placid corydoras won’t pass up the chance to gobble up an isolated fry. Because of this, many people offer angelfish pairs their own tank for breeding.

If the eggs have been laid on a small object you can move, you can attempt to place it in a fry net before the little ones hatch. This will allow you to feed them separately and avoid new parents gobbling up the young.

When To Feed Free Swimming Angelfish Fry

At first, newly-hatched fry sustain themselves on their remaining yolk pouch. The name given to fry at this stage is ‘wrigglers’, as they will wriggle in place for roughly 4 days. You do not need to feed fry during this stage. The yolk provides a complete diet.

Once fry become free-swimming, they will detach from the nesting surface. For another 1-2 days, their yolk pouch will keep them sustained. However, you can begin feeding fry as soon as they are free-swimming. Do not wait any longer than a day or so before feeding. This can lead to massive die-offs, as these delicate fry perish quickly.

Angelfish grow at a rapid pace. To fuel such growth, they need to eat high-quality food multiple times a day. This amount should increase if they aren’t confined to a nursery tank and have to compete for food. Pipette droppers can be useful for ejecting water laden with food close to fry, giving them first dibs.

How Often Do Angelfish Fry Need To Be Fed?

Angelfish fry need to be fed multiple times a day. In breeding tanks free of competition, an ideal number is 3-4 feeds per day. Spread these throughout the day, so that the fry have food near-constantly in their bellies.

Every clutch will be slightly different and may thrive more on different feeding regimens. At the minimum, all fry clutches should have 2 feeds a day.

If you can only do a morning and night feed, offer the fish slightly more food. If you are able to feed them 3 or more times a day, slightly decrease the amount in each feed. Fish will over-eat very easily. Be sure to remove any uneaten food to stop it from rotting in the water.

At 3-4 months of age, the fry will have become juveniles and you can settle down to 2 feeds a day. Revista Brasileria de Zootecnia found that twice-daily feeds were optimal for healthy growth in juvenile angelfish. These feeds also prevent over-eating.

Feeding Baby Angelfish Fry

Angelfish fry are delicate life forms. They will die very easily, and certain foods increase their odds of survival in these early days and weeks.

As small creatures, fry will also struggle to fit certain types of food in their mouth. You need to pick the meals carefully. Here are the best options for different stages of life:

Pre-Made Food

Adult and juvenile angelfish can happily have pre-made foods comprise the bulk of their diet. These foods include:

Flakes
Pellets
Freeze-dried options

Young fry, on other hand, cannot eat this. The nutritional value of dried foods is not high enough to meet their needs. Likewise, the food is too large for their mouths.

Once fry are over a month old, you can begin incorporating pre-made foods into their diet. These foods should only compose a quarter of their diet. Live or frozen foods should fill the rest.

Pellets

Owners are spoiled for choice when it comes to pellet foods. Hikari First Bites and Aquamunch are two options designed specifically for feeding fry, with the former being tailored for carnivorous fish.

These foods are nutrient-rich and made for fry, even those that are freshly hatched or born. Although these products can be a complete diet, it is best to include them as part of a varied diet.

Angelfish fry, babies, and juveniles can be fed these foods. At the later stages, however, they will be too small for the fish.

Crushed Flake Food

Flake foods are designed to float at the surface. That makes them unsuitable for fry and young angelfish. Adults can be fed flake foods, as can juvenile angelfish over 3-4 months of age.

Flake foods are often labeled as a complete diet for any fish. They can be. However, if you are trying to encourage your angelfish to breed, offer them high-quality foods alongside flakes. This enables larger clutches of healthy eggs to be laid.

You can finely grind up flake food in emergency food-shortages and mix it with water to create a slurry. This is not suitable as a regular part of a fry’s diet, and should only be used rarely in between live culture foods. For example, if your brine shrimp culture isn’t yet large enough to be used for multiple feeds each day, choose the slurry.

Live Foods

Live foods are the best type to offer carnivorous or omnivorous fish at any stage. Angelfish fry benefit from having live foods, especially in their first weeks of life.

Scientific studies have even proved this, with Revista de Biologia Tropical finding that live foods over commercial options are better for growing angelfish. Live foods must still be a certain size for very young fry.

Brine Shrimp

Brine shrimp are the top-recommended food for angelfish fry. They are highly nutritious. Freshly hatched brine shrimp are perfect for angelfish fry, even in the earliest days.

You can scoop up the brine shrimp with a pipette, spoon, or shot glass and tip them directly into the tank. A pipette is the best option if there are other fish in the tank, as you can disperse the shrimp directly over the fry.

Aquarium shops occasionally maintain their own brine shrimp breeding setups. This allows you to buy newly hatched shrimp as needed. You can also set up your own brine shrimp culture, which many breeders will do out of convenience and to save on costs.

You can even order brine shrimp eggs. There are many hatchery kits and a variety of DIY setups. Brine shrimp are quite popular as a food item, and freeze-dried and frozen options are available. Some nutrition is lost in this preparation process, but they are still good options.

Infusoria

Infusoria is a name given to the micro-organisms that live in bodies of water. These organisms include:

Algae
Euglena
Amoebas
Stentor

In the wild, these little critters are what angelfish fry eat. In your fish tank, the same will occur if any exist.

However, the infusoria population in your tank is rarely large enough to sustain the fry. For this reason, many aquarists will maintain an infusoria culture.

This is a great food source for newly hatched angelfish fry, as the organisms are tiny and nutritious. It is quite simple to develop this culture, although often unpleasant due to the odors produced.

Take a sample of your aquarium’s water and place it in a larger food container.
Add a food source, like yeast, and set the container in a sunny spot.
After a few days, the water will hopefully become cloudy with micro-organisms.
Extract and provide meals to the fry in the same way you would for brine shrimp.

Bloodworms

Bloodworms for freshwater angelfish are often the larvae of midge-flies. In the wild, many critters feast on these worms, including angelfish. Adult angelfish love live bloodworms, and young angelfish will happily scoop up small worms.

Bloodworms are occasionally sold live, but are most easily available in freeze-dried and frozen forms. No matter the form, bloodworms should only be given to juvenile or older angelfish.

Even then, bloodworms should be given to them 1-2 times a week, as this food can cause constipation. Bloodworms are not suitable for fry.

Micro Worms

Unlike bloodworms, micro worms are suitable for angelfish fry. You can even set up a culture so that you have tiny, nutritious worms as needed.

Micro worm cultures are widely available and very easy to set up and maintain. All you need are:

A container
Yeast and instant oats
A starter culture

Worms are ready for harvest in 2 weeks, so you’ll need to have this prepared in advance. Micro worms are a great live food for fry and young angelfish.

Vinegar Eels

In spite of the name, vinegar eels are actually tiny roundworms, and not the parasitic kind. They’re:

Easy to culture
A great food source for fry
Can survive in the aquarium for a day

As such, all the fry have a chance to eat at every meal, not just those that reach the table first. It also means the odds of leftovers rotting in the aquarium are minimal.

Even fish too small for baby brine shrimp can suck vinegar eels down easily. Live cultures are easy to DIY, and you can buy starter cultures in a variety of places. Wine bottles, or any container with a long, thin neck, are ideal.

Eels take roughly 2 weeks to grow to a harvestable age. As such, this is a culture you’ll need to prepare in advance. When they are ready to harvest, you can remove them from the vinegar culture before offering them to your fry. This is because the culture liquid is toxic to all fish.

To extract vinegar eels, stuff a cotton ball into the neck and top the bottle off with an inch or so of aquarium-safe water. Overnight, the eels will wriggle through the cotton to reach the fresh water. Use a pipette to suck up the eels and feed them to your angelfish fry.

Do Angelfish Fry Eat Algae?

Angelfish fry will eat algae, alongside other infusoria. These are an omnivorous species, however, and algae alone will not be a complete, nutritious diet.

Green water cultures can be useful if you want to breed herbivorous fish alongside angelfish fry. You can also feed your brine shrimp cultures with green water.

Create a green water culture by filling a clear container with aquarium water.
Place this container somewhere with lots of direct sunlight.
In a few weeks’ time, you’ll likely have a thriving algae culture.
Extract the algae as needed and feed it to your fish or other culture critters.

Angelfish can eat algae at any age, including as new fry.

What Do Angelfish Fry Eat In The Wild?

In the wild, angelfish fry will eat whatever they can fit into their mouths. This includes micro flora and fauna, like algae, micro worms, and other tiny invertebrates.

Angelfish have such large clutches to increase the odds of some individuals reaching adulthood. The wild waters angelfish natively live in are full of dangers. Only a small percentage of fry will survive long enough to reach adult size.

Homemade Food For Angelfish Fry

Aside from live cultures, there are two types of homemade foods you can whip up for your angelfish fry. These are great for feeding unexpected clutches, or those that need food before your live cultures are ready to harvest.

It is best two intersperse other food sources throughout these homemade options. Also note that these foods can quickly foul the water. You’ll need to do frequent water changes and remove any uneaten food from the tank to minimize this.

Hard-Boiled Egg Yolks

Hard-boiled egg yolks are a great homemade food for angelfish fry. You can prepare this in advance or as needed, and store leftovers in the fridge for 2-3 days. To prepare this food:

Cook the eggs for 7-9 minutes in gently boiling water.
Allow the eggs to cool completely before separating the yolks from the whites.
Mash the yolks into a powder.
Add a small amount of your aquarium’s water to a portion of this powder and create a slurry.
You can also get egg yolk powder to create a slurry.

For fry, you want this slurry to be liquid enough that it can be sucked into a pipette. This will make it easier to disperse the food near the fry, so none goes to waste. Once the fry are over a month old, you can add ground-up fish flakes to the slurry for added nutrition.

There are commercial foods made specifically for fry fish. However, these do not pack the same punch as live baby brine shrimp, micro worms, or vinegar eels – the best foods for fresh fry.

As the fish mature over a few weeks, commercial foods can be integrated into their diet. There is always the option of creating hard-boiled egg yolk slurries for an emergency feed too.

How to Keep Angelfish Fry Alive? (7 Easy Steps) – Pet Fish Online

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Countless times I’ve seen my angelfish spawning. However, it was challenging to prevent the newborns from dying. It was only a year ago was when I dug into the topic more deeply. Luckily, I’ve found a few techniques to keep the angelfish fry alive.

Keeping angelfish fry alive involves these steps:

Raise either the fry or the angelfish parents in separate tanks.
Choose a peaceful environment for the tank, away from human traffic.
Stick with relatively gentle sponge filters.
Keep the water temperature around 80-degree F.
Replace 10% of the water daily.
Introduce vegetation to provide the angelfish fry with hiding spots.
Feed the fry with vinegar eels or micro worms, which are both nutritious and tiny.

These seven steps should increase angelfish fry survival rates. However, each one features its own nuances. As we move forward, I’ll elaborate on each technique and show you what I use to grow my angelfish fry successfully.

Keeping Angelfish Fry Alive

Angelfish are mature enough to spawn within the first nine months of their lives. They tend to reproduce every ten to fourteen days. And it usually takes three days for the eggs to hatch. During that time, the angel parents will care for the eggs, protecting them from tank mates that might eat them, removing fungus and debris, and also eating infertile eggs.

But what happens when the angelfish fry finally enter the picture? How do you keep them alive? In an ideal situation, this is what typically happens:

When the eggs hatch, the fry remain attached to their yolk sac. You don’t have to worry about feeding them at this point. They can survive on the yolk sac, which they will eat until it disappears. This is when they become free swimmers.

At this point, you can start feeding them brine shrimp. They must be fed two or three times a day. They need a lot of nutrients to survive. Otherwise, they will waste away. You also have to change their diet as they grow.

For instance, you can start with baby brine shrimp when the fry first hatch. But after three weeks, you should switch to adult brine shrimp. Some people depend too heavily on flakes and pellets. And while such food is perfectly acceptable for angelfish fry, you should only use it as a supplement rather than the main meal.

If you feed them as required, your fry should reach 16mm in size within two months. At this point, you don’t have quite as much to worry about. While you have the option of raising your fry away from their parents, you should know that angelfish don’t spawn as much when they have fry in the tank.

In fact, they won’t spawn while caring for their fry.^[1] Not until the present batch has grown and no longer requires their assistance will they finally produce more eggs. If you prefer to raise your angelfish fry separately, don’t be too surprised if your angels inundate your tank with new eggs and fry every few days.

The process detailed above describes the ideal situation. But there are many fish owners whose conditions are not perfect; people whose fry keep dying for reasons they cannot quite fathom. If you count yourself among these individuals, there are several steps you can take to reduce the death toll among your angelfish fry, including:

1. Keep The Fry Out of The Community Tank

If you wish to guarantee the safety and security of your angelfish fry, keep them out of a community tank. You can separate the parents before they even lay the eggs, giving them their own breeding aquarium.^[2]

You can also take the fry away, leaving the parents in the community tank. To do this, you must provide your angelfish parents a slate upon which they will lay and fertilize their eggs.

Separating the fry is a simple matter of taking the slate with its eggs out of the community tank, placing it in a separate container (2.5-10 gallons), and waiting for the eggs to hatch.

The approach you take will depend on the temperament of your angelfish parents. If they are peaceful, the fry can stay with them in a separate tank. Also, if the other creatures in the community tank are friendly, you can choose to keep the fry in the shared aquarium, trusting their angelfish parents to protect them.

If the parents are volatile enough that you think they might eat the fry, take them away. If you go with this approach, consider that the fry take about twelve months to grow and reach maturity. I’ve discussed that in this article I wrote, and even showed a few tips to make them grow faster.

2. Maintain a Peaceful Environment

If you have chosen to leave the angelfish fry with their parents, keep the tank in a peaceful, quiet location – away from extensive human traffic.^[3]Avoid harsh noises and lighting. Such disturbances will cause the sort of stress that could compel your angelfish parents to eat their fry.

Some fish owners will go so far as to place a plastic covering over the tank. But this tactic has challenges associated with it. You have to add peepholes that are strategically placed to enable you to observe the activity in the tank. Otherwise, every time you remove the plastic, you could startle the angels.

Regarding lighting, I highly suggest that you take a look at an article I wrote about whether or not angelfish like light. In there, you’ll find a few techniques I’ve learned that keep my angels calm, even when turning the bedroom lights on and off.

3. Get a Balanced Filter

Regardless of whether you have your fry in their own tank or the same tank as their parents, you have to use the right sponge filter. You need clean water that is free of waste, uneaten food and debris to maintain the health of your fry. Otherwise, the resulting buildup of substances like ammonia could cause them great harm.

This is where the filter enters the picture. It should be powerful enough to keep the water clean but not so powerful that it sucks the fry in. Some filters are not powerful enough to suck your fry in, but they produce such a powerful flow of water that it tires the fry out. This isn’t good for their health either.

As you might have already seen in the video above, sponge filters are considered best for the fish fry. They are gentle, and the newborns aren’t likely to get sucked in. Personally, I’ve been using the AQUANEAT Aquarium Bio (link to Amazon) for years, with great success.

However, don’t expect the filter to do all the work. You are also advised to remove uneaten food from the tank. The same goes for fry that die. Take them out of the aquarium before they corrupt the water.

4. Take Care of The Water Temperature

Some people prefer to leave their tanks at the mercy of the weather conditions in the vicinity. They see little point in artificially manipulating the temperature of the water in the tank because the weather in their area is warm or cool enough to keep their tank within the appropriate range.

Whether or not this is true, with fry, you need to add a heater to your tank. You can’t expect that the sunbeams, coming from the window of your sitting room, will keep the water at the 80-degree F mark (which is what your angelfish fry need). Colder water could prove detrimental to their health. This is why you are encouraged to keep a thermometer on hand.

This is where heaters step in. If you are interested, feel free to check out a review I’ve written regarding my favorite water heater. That was the only one that kept the degrees stable enough to raise my fish fry successfully.

Monitor the temperature of the water to ensure that it is always within the appropriate range.

5. Replace The Water Regularly

You can’t maintain the quality of the water in the tank by simply adding a filter and removing uneaten food. You must also change the water regularly. Some fish owners will encourage you to replace half the water in the tank daily.

But it is possible to change too much water too frequently. This can cause such drastic fluctuations in the pH that it harms your fry in the process. Some people have lost angelfish fry this way. This is why I recommend water changes of no more than 10 percent of your tank’s size. Try to do so each day.

6. Introduce Vegetation

If your fry and their angelfish parents are sharing a community tank, give them as much foliage as possible. This will provide them with a place to hide. Add plants like Anacharis and Hornwort that are tall enough to provide sufficient cover for the fry.

If you are interested, here I wrote about all the plants I could find that angelfish don’t typically eat. These kinds would probably flourish in your tank and provide your angels with long-standing hiding spots.

While there are plenty of good reasons to add plastic plants that require no care, you should know that live plants keep the water properly oxygenated. Your tank will be a healthier place for your fry if you have live plants. They will keep the water balanced, debilitating the growth of algae and eliminating some of the waste. ^[4]

7. Stick to Balanced Meals

Endeavor to provide a steady supply of food to your community tank. If the fish in the tank are fed as required, they are less likely to eat your fry. Food will also keep them distracted.

The dietary requirements of adult angels differ from those of angelfish fry. The nutritional needs of fry will change as they transition from one stage to stage. As wigglers, they are still attached to their yolks, which they will proceed to eat.

Once they separate from the yolk sac, the survival of your angelfish fry will depend primarily on your ability to feed them appropriately.

In the earliest moments of their free-swimming lives, they can feed on small micro-organisms called infusoria. These can be found naturally in tanks with plants. This is another reason why you should grow live vegetation.

Infusoria is perfect for fry because the creatures are so tiny, and they are still learning to eat. Eventually, you can start feeding them newly hatched brine shrimp. The reason remains the same. The fry are tiny, so they need equally small food.

Additional options include vinegar eels (link to Amazon), which are a non-parasitic class of roundworms that are also nutritious and small enough for fry to eat. The same goes for micro worms. While you can buy all these food options, some people prefer to rear them from home.

If you don’t have any of these foods on hand, feed your fry boiled egg yolk. Boil an egg, remove the shell and the egg. Once you’ve retrieved the yolk, dissolve it in a container of water. This can be done by placing the yolk in the water and shaking the tank vigorously until the egg has dissolved.

At this point, the yolk has broken into pieces small enough for your fry to consume. For some people, it might be easier to feed the fry egg yolk powder, Hikari first bites and other commercial food options.

The objective is to ensure that the essential nutritional requirements of the fry are met.

Conclusions

Growing angelfish fry is easier said than done. These gentle creatures require specific conditions; otherwise, they won’t survive. The most prevalent mistake is feeding them with adults’ flakes. You have to consider that fry have smaller mouths.

Also, if you choose to keep them in the community tank, make sure you introduce vegetation. Plants will make it easier for the little ones to survive. They will be able to hide between the leaves from predators. Although, the safest way is probably keeping the newborns in a separate tank. Just make sure the environment is peaceful and that you replace the water regularly.

Either way, I wish you the best of luck in keeping the angelfish fry alive. I’m sure you’ll eventually find the right balance. Just don’t give up if you fail to do so in your first attempt.

References

http://www.aquaworldaquarium.com/Articles/TonyGriffitts/Spawning_and_Raising_Angelfish.htm
https://www.wisegeek. com/how-do-i-care-for-angelfish-fry.htm
https://fins.actwin.com/articles/freshwaterangels.php
https://animals.mom.me/baby-angelfish-care-5984.html
Featured Image: Flickr

Frozen food for aquarium fish - News of February 3, 2021

Aquarium science is gaining momentum from year to year, taking into its ranks an increasing number of enthusiastic people. For some, an aquarium is a five-liter "glass" with a cockerel, for someone - a five-hundred-liter herbalist with discus. Their owners are united by caring for their fish and enjoying the contemplation of a home pond! Everyone wants their pets to grow up healthy, bright and beautiful, so that their life is long. Stability and cleanliness in the aquarium is the key to success. But not a small role is played by what they feed fish and other aquatic organisms.

There are different feeding options: live food, dry and frozen, alternating food. Let's take a closer look at frozen foods. Let's find out what they are and what their advantages are.

Prime frozen food range

Live frozen foods are natural larvae, worms, small and large crustaceans, mollusks, and even deep-frozen fish. With this method, useful vitamins, proteins, fats, amino acids are stored in the feed for a long time. In addition, processed food is completely disinfected and safe!

How to properly feed your fish with frozen food

It is important to know that when thawing and re-freezing, the quality of the feed is lost! The food can even spoil, which will lead to poisoning of the fish. You should buy food from trusted suppliers, take them home in thermal bags and store them strictly in the freezer.

All frozen food (as aquarists call these foods) is packaged in doses in a blister or in a "chocolate" - a whole slab of food. The owner can only get food for their pets in advance, thaw it in water and rinse. Or don't thaw at all. The latter refers to the smallest foods (eg cyclops and wolffish) used to feed miniature fish (eg microspray, neon). It is enough to put a cube of food in an aquarium, where, under the influence of temperature, it will gradually melt, while baby fish will not be able to bite off large pieces, which means they will not harm themselves. For large fish species, this method is not suitable at all: swallowing large pieces of ice food, they can become cold or damage the intestines.

On natural food, fish grow well and gain color in a natural way. Different types of frozen food help to significantly expand the pet's diet. In nature, fish choose their own food, depending on taste preferences, type of food and habitat. At home, this "falls on the shoulders" of the owner. That is why it is important to know what is on the menu of certain fish in their natural habitat.

Let's take a look at the frozen food range.

Motyl

Bloodworm - larvae of mosquitoes of the family Chironomidae . The most common and well-eaten food for almost all fish. It is divided in size into small (for characins, barbs, danios, guppies, corridors, notobranchius, cockerels, shrimps, etc. ), medium (for bots, laliuses, gourami, cuneiforms, viviparous, etc.) and large (for archers, argus , Labeo, goldfish, proboscis, pangasius, cichlids of America and Asia, stingrays, arowans, etc.)

Motyl ice cream in chocolate

Small bloodworm in a blister 100ml (Ekokorm)

Bloodworm medium in a blister 100ml (Ekokorm)

Bloodworm large frozen in blister PRIME 100ml

Bloodworm small frozen in blister PRIME 100ml

Bloodworm medium frozen in blister PRIME 100ml

Bloodworm medium frozen PRIME in a blister 100 ml

Large bloodworm in a blister 100ml (Ekokorm)

Bloodworm large in a blister 100g (Marlin)

Small bloodworm in a blister 100g (Marlin)

Bloodworm medium in a blister 100ml (Marlin)

Coretra

Coretra - larvae of mosquitoes from the family Chaoboridae . Unlike the bloodworm, which immediately sinks to the bottom, the coretra can swim near the surface and in the thickness of the aquarium. Excellent food for labyrinths, viviparous, zebrafish, characins, barbs, cuneiforms, labeos, proboscis, iris, aplocheilichthys and others.

Duet (bloodworm and coretra) frozen in blister 100ml (Ekokorm)

Coretra frozen in blister PRIME 100ml

Coretra frozen in blister 100ml (Ekokorm)

Artemia

Artemia is a small crustacean, a great option for freshwater and marine fish. Artemia naturally "tints" the inhabitants of the aquarium. Suitable mainly for cichlids in Africa, Asia and America, characins, cuneiforms, catfish, viviparous, labyrinths, barbs, goldfish, iris and other freshwater fish and shrimps, as well as sea cichlids - clowns, angels, surgeons, foxes, butterflies, chromis, chrysipters , zebrasomes, canines, gobies and other fish and invertebrates (shrimp, crayfish, lobsters).

Artemia frozen in blister 100ml (Ekokorm)

Artemia adult frozen in blister PRIME 100ml

AQUAMENU fish food Artemia-C Artemia eggs for breeding nauplii 100ml/45g

AQUAMENU fish food Artemia-D Artemia eggs decapsulated 100ml/55g

Daphnia

Daphnia are small cladocerans. Good food for medium-sized fish: neon, guppies, tetras, dwarf cichlids, catfish and others.

Daphnia frozen in blister 100ml (Ekokorm)

Daphnia frozen in blister PRIME 100ml

Daphnia in blister 100g (Marlin)

Shellless shrimp

Shrimp shellless - small crustaceans, which are first-class food for all cichlids, argus, rainbowfish, goldfish, labeo, bots, catfish, as well as marine fish: triggerfish, angels, butterflies, surgeons, foxes, rhinos, arotrons, hedgehogs, fish -protein, groupers and others.

Frozen shellless shrimp PRIME in a blister pack 100 ml

Shrimp shellless frozen in blister PRIME 100ml

Brown cyclops, moina and microplankton

Brown cyclops, moina and microplankton are the smallest of the foods. Great for small aquarium inhabitants: microrasbor, neon, telmaterin and iriaterin, guppies, bettas, wedge-bellies, tetras, danios, speckled catfish, shrimps, as well as small marine fish (gobies, chrysipter, chromis, dogs and others) and invertebrates.

Cyclops brown ice cream in a blister pack 100ml (Ekokorm)

Cyclops brown frozen in blister PRIME 100ml

Cyclops in blister 100g (Marlin)

Frozen microplankton in blister 100 ml (Ekokorm)

Microplankton frozen in blister PRIME 100ml

Moina frozen in blister 100ml

Gammarus

Gammarus - amphipods, suitable food for medium and large cichlids, mastatzembelus, polypterus, goldfish, armored pikes, synodontis and pangasius.

Gammarus frozen in blister PRIME 100ml

Gammarus ice cream in a blister pack 100ml (Ekokorm)

Pipemaker

Tubifex - low-bristle worms, a good nutritious food, especially recommended for young fish. Suitable for melanothenia, barbs, viviparous, labyrinths, tetras, catfish, bots and others, as well as marine fish.

Tubifex frozen in a blister 100ml (Ekokorm)

Wolfia

Wolfia is a small plant from the duckweed subfamily. Ideal for herbivorous fish and fish with a mixed diet. Suitable for goldfish, mollies, platies, swordtails, guppies, young African cichlids, mileuses, metinnis and others.

Wolffia frozen in blister 100ml (Ekokorm)

Shellfish, minced

Shellfish minced - finely minced mussels and other shellfish. This food is suitable for cichlids, catfish, mastacembelus, goldfish, snakeheads, tetradons and others, as well as marine surgeons, butterflies, foxes, arotrons, angels and others.

Shellfish crushed ice cream in a blister pack 100ml (Ekokorm)

Whole shrimp, frozen

Frozen whole shrimp - a small shrimp with a shell. Suitable for large cichlids, stingrays, predatory catfish, polypteruses, arowans and others, as well as sea arotrons, triggerfish, parrots and others.

Whole shrimp frozen in blister PRIME 100 ml

Minced fish meat and squid

Minced fish meat and squid are medium-sized pieces suitable for large fish: cichlids, rays, catfish, piranhas, snakeheads, polypteruses and others, as well as sea arrotrons, triggerfish, sharks, groupers and others.

Squid (Aqua Logo) in blister 100ml

Frozen squid in blister 100ml (Ekokorm)

Tropical diet

Tropical diet - a mixture of bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia, cyclops, enriched with vitamins. Suitable for all small fish.

Tropical frozen diet in blister PRIME 100ml

Cichlid mix

Cichlid mix - a mixture of bloodworm, gammarus, fish meat, shrimp, shellfish and spinach. Excellent balanced food for all types of cichlids.

Mix for cichlids frozen in a blister 100 ml (Ekokorm)

Mix for cichlids frozen in blister PRIME 100ml

Mix for cichlids frozen PRIME in blister 100 ml

Quintet

The quintet is a mixture of bloodworm, brine shrimp, daphnia, cyclops and tubifex. Suitable for all medium sized fish.

Quintet frozen in blister PRIME 100ml

Vegetable diet

Vegetable diet - a mixture of seaweed, dandelion leaves, spinach and other plants. An indispensable food for fish in need of such a diet: goldfish, koi and others.

Vegetable diet in blister 100ml

Cichlid Quintet

Quintet for cichlids - a mixture of shrimp, minced meat, mussels, squid and gammarus. Suitable for large cichlids and large marine fish.

Quintet for cichlids frozen in blister PRIME 100ml

Quintet for adult cichlids in blister 100ml

Discus mix

Discus Mix is a specially formulated discus food based on bovine heart, herbal ingredients, vitamin and mineral supplements.

Mix for discus in blister 100ml (Ekokorm)

Discus mix frozen in blister PRIME 100 ml

Marine fish mix

Marine fish mixture - a mixture consisting of minced fish meat, mussels, shrimp, brine shrimp and bloodworm. Great for marine aquariums.

Mixture for marine fish in a blister 100ml

Turtle mix

Turtle Blend - A mixture of minced shrimp, fish, bloodworm, gammarus and herbal supplements. This food has been developed for all types of aquatic turtles, but may also be suitable for feeding cichlids.

Mixture for skulls frozen in blister PRIME 100ml

Mixture for turtles frozen in a blister 100 ml (Ekokorm)

Video

We invite you to read the article "Top 10 Frozen Foods" on Aqualogo Info with detailed information about which fish is suitable for which food.

All frozen foods

Top 10 most popular frozen foods for aquarium fish

Healthy nutrition is one of the most important factors in life. In the modern world, it is given great attention. And not only among people, but also their pets. That is why the zoo market is “replete” with a variety of feeds and supplements.

Why are natural frozen foods good for fish and other aquatic organisms? First of all, its safety. Feeds are carefully processed from parasites, they are 100% safe to use. Natural foods are highly nutritious. Deep freezing preserves their useful properties and essential substances.

In addition, frozen food is convenient to use: they are packaged in portions. In just a few minutes, an aquarist can defrost the required volume and feed his pets tasty and beneficial food! What foods are the most popular among fish farmers and their pets? We have compiled the most delicious top!

Motyl

The bloodworm is a larva of the ringing mosquito from the family Chironomidae . The larvae have a rich red color due to the high content of hemoglobin in their hemolymph. Bloodworm is a high protein food suitable for most aquarium fish. Depending on the age of the larva and its size, bloodworms are divided into small, medium and large.

Which fish can be fed with bloodworms

The small bloodworm is an ideal food for danios, tetras, guppies, platies, afiosemions and notobranchius, cockerels, gobies, corridors, wedge-belly and other fish, as well as fry of larger fish and invertebrates (crayfish, shrimps). The average bloodworm is suitable for barbs, rainbows, archers, labeos, bots, mollies, swordtails, gourami, sucker catfish, dwarf cichlids and others. Large bloodworms are great for goldfish, mastacembelus, tetradons, snakeheads, stingrays, arowans, knives, pikes, elephants, synodontis, pangasius, large cichlids and others.

Go to the catalog to buy frozen bloodworm

Bloodworm large frozen in blister PRIME 100ml
Large bloodworm in a blister 100ml (Ekokorm)
Bloodworm large in blister 100g (Marlin)
Bloodworm medium frozen in blister PRIME 100ml
Bloodworm medium in a blister 100ml (Ekokorm)
Bloodworm medium in a blister 100ml (Marlin)
Bloodworm small frozen in blister PRIME 100ml
Small bloodworm in a blister 100ml (Ekokorm)
Small bloodworm in a blister 100g (Marlin)
Frozen bloodworm in chocolate

Artemia

Artemia is a small branchial-legged crustacean, reaching a length of 10-15 mm. It lives in brackish waters, has a reddish tint due to the large amount of carotenoids in its body. Artemia is also rich in proteins, fats, amino acids, hormones and vitamins. It enhances the natural color of the fish.

Which fish can be fed with brine shrimp

Artemia is an excellent food for marine fish (clowns, butterflies, angels, surgeons, chrysipters, chromis, dogs, gobies and others) and invertebrates (shrimp, crayfish), and is also suitable for freshwater fish: cichlids of Malawi and Tanganyika lakes, cichlids of America, iris , barbs, goldfish, gourami, metinnis, mileus, bots and others.

Go to catalog

Artemia adult frozen in blister PRIME 100ml
Artemia frozen in blister 100ml (Ecokorm)

Cyclops

Cyclops is a small copepod, about 1-2 mm long. The name was given in honor of the character of ancient Greek mythology for one single eye on his head. Cyclops is rich in protein, fatty acids, vitamins and carotenoids.

Which fish can be fed with Cyclops

Being one of the smallest foods, it is ideal for fry, as well as small fish: neon, guppies, tetras, microrasboras and rasboras, barbs and others. In addition, the cyclops naturally enhances the color of the fish.

Go to catalog

Cyclops brown frozen in blister PRIME 100ml
Cyclops brown ice cream in a blister pack 100ml (Ekokorm)
Cyclops in blister 100g (Marlin)

Coretra

Koretra is a larva of a thick-bodied mosquito from the family Chaoboridae . It has a translucent body, reaches a length of 10-12 mm. Coretra is a nutritious and easily digestible food for most fish, especially during the breeding season.

Which fish can be fed with Coretra

The peculiarity of the coretra - to float on the surface of the water - makes the coretra a convenient food for bettas, zebrafish, aploheilichthys, gourami, wedge-belly and carnegiellas, as well as for guppies, tetras, barbs, iris and many others.

Go to catalog

Coretra frozen in blister PRIME 100ml
Coretra frozen in blister 100ml (Ekokorm)
Duet (bloodworm and coretra) frozen in blister 100ml (Ekokorm)

Shellless shrimp

The shellless shrimp (or mysids) is a crustacean from the order of higher crayfish, reaching a size of 7-10 mm. Shellless shrimp is a highly nutritious food rich in proteins, fats, amino acids and vitamins.

Which fish can be fed shellless shrimp

It is a complete food for marine fish and invertebrates: butterfly fish, surgeons, angels, foxes, clowns and others, shrimps, crayfish, crabs and lobsters. Also suitable for freshwater fish: discus, cichlaz, uaru, geophagus, goldfish, argus, sucker catfish, stingrays and others.

Go to catalog

Shrimp shellless frozen in blister PRIME 100ml
Frozen shellless shrimp PRIME in blister pack 100 ml

Tropical Diet

Tropical Diet is a complete, balanced, nutritious food consisting of a mixture of small bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia and cyclops with the addition of a vitamin premix.

What fish can I feed on a tropical diet

This mix is a convenient option for feeding medium-sized fish: mollies, platies, guppies, neons, bettas, tetras, parsing and micro-parsing, zebrafish, barbs, corridors, dwarf cichlids and others, as well as shrimps and crayfish. Each inhabitant of the aquarium has the opportunity to choose a delicacy to taste!

Go to catalog

Tropical diet frozen in blister PRIME 100ml

Gammarus

Gammarus is a amphipod from the genus of higher crayfish. Reaches a length of up to 10 mm and is a highly nutritious food with a high content of carotenoids. Gammarus helps to improve the condition of the digestive system of fish, being ballast food.

Which fish can be fed with hamarus

Suitable for feeding American and African cichlids, goldfish, chain and other catfish, monodactyls and other fish. And also for aquatic turtles (red-eared, trionics and others).

Go to catalog

Gammarus frozen in blister PRIME 100ml
Gammarus premium crushed bucket 150 ml
Frozen Gammarus in blister 100ml (Ekokorm)

Daphnia

Daphnia is a branched crustacean about 2 mm in size. It occurs in stagnant reservoirs (puddles, ponds) of our strip. This is a planktonic crustacean that forms huge aggregations. Daphnia feed on bacteria and single-celled algae, making them a nutritious food for aquarium fish.

Which fish can be fed daphnia

Guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies, barbs, tetras, neons and other medium-sized fish are happy to eat Daphnia.

Go to catalog

Daphnia frozen in blister PRIME 100ml
Daphnia frozen in a blister 100ml (Ekokorm)
Daphnia in blister 100g (Marlin)

Whole shrimp

Whole shrimp - medium-sized (2.5-3 cm) shrimp with shell, high protein food with a high content of calcium.

Which fish can be fed with shelled shrimp

The size of the shrimp allows them to feed large cichlids (parrots, cichlases, acar, uaru, geophagus), arowans, chital knives, stingrays, freshwater moray eels, polypterus, pangasius, methinnis, mileus, tetradons, snakeheads. As well as sea fish: groupers, surgeons, angels, hedgehogs, arotrons and others.