How long do you hand feed baby parrots

Instructions For Hand-Feeding Baby Birds

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The idea of a new baby bird in the family is an exciting proposition that brings a new dimension to your life. However, if you decide to hand-feed your new pet, you will need some knowlege, a lot of patience, and a good diet for a growing bird.

Veterinarians and naturalists have developed techniques for hand raising nesting birds, and there are now easy-to-use special baby bird formulas for feeding the ever-hungry little babies. Higgins Intune Baby Bird Hand Feeding Formula and Higgins Intune Hi Energy Baby Macaw Hand Feeding Formula are super foods that meet the extraordinary nutritional needs of these unusually fast growing babies. It is rice based (sourced from North America) and corn free. inTune® Natural Hand Feeding uses natural and healthy, high end sources for nutritional fat like coconut oil and macadamia nut meal. It is also the only commercial hand feeding formula on the market with natural banana & mango aroma. The need to cook the formula has also been eliminated. It can now be prepared with hot water!

Most baby birds arrive in the world wet, naked, blind, and too weak to support themselves. When fallen from their nest, survival is questionable. Now, with help, they are able to grow and develop normally. Wild birds can be raised and returned to nature. Pet birds learn to accept people as friends. The real benefactors, though, are people. Nature returns many-fold for kindness performed.

Hand-Feeding
The most important considerations in the hand feeding process are the frequency and volume of feeding. Baby birds grow at an extraordinarily rapid rate and this growth requires a great deal of food to meet the nutritional needs of the bird. However, the crop of a young bird holds a limited amount of food, so it must be filled frequently. As the bird gets older, the capacity of the crop increases, and the number of daily feedings will be reduced. The volume to be fed is base upon a combination of observation and judgement.

Procedure
Check the Fullness of the Crop
Nature designed a rather unique feature into the digestive system of birds-a widening of the oesophagus at the lower pan of the neck This widening acts as a compartment to hold a quantity of food, and is named the crop.

The crop can be easily visualized in young birds while feathering is incomplete. In older birds with a well developed covering of feathers, the fullness can be checked by gently feeling the crop with a thumb and index finger.

The crop should be examined before each feeding. Ideally, in the rapidly growing young bird, the crop should never be allowed to become completely empty. Checking the crop fullness will help determine the frequency and volume of feeding to be given. Normally the crop will empty in 4 hours. A crop that remains full or is not emptying properly indicates some type of problem.

Position Bird for Hand-Feeding.
Wild birds are best fed while in a nest box. They will open their beaks and gape, making feeding very easy. Avoid excessive handling of wild birds. Pet birds are removed from the nest box and placed on a towel. By cupping a hand gently around the baby during feeding , adequate support will be given to position him for eating.

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Carefully Introduce Feeding Device into the Mouth.

The introduction of an eye dropper or syringe into the mouth is relatively easy, as the baby birds will be eager to be fed and will be gaping (opening the beak wide in order to receive the feeding). Occasionally, a bird may not gape, and gentle tapping of the beak with the feeding device will encourage the bird to open its beak. The device should be carefully passed into the left side toward the right side of the mouth.

Administration of the formula should be synchronized with swallowing. Birds swallow with an unusual rhythmic bobbing of the head up and down. While the bird is swallowing, the formula is delivered quickly. With practice, a "feet" for the procedure develops, and, done efficiently, the filling of the crop can be accomplished in a surprisingly short time.

Volume of formula to be Given
The volume of food given is of critical importance. overfilling of the crop could lead to backflow up the oesophagus, into the throat, and down the windpipe, which could cause death. Under-filling the crop might result in starvation.

As t he food material is being delivered, the crop will begin to fill and bulge in the region of the lower neck. Careful observation and experience are necessary in order to determine when the crop is adequately filled.

Frequently, the bird will stop gaping when the crop is filled; however, some birds, will continue to gape even when filled. Watch closely when filling for any evidence of food material backing up into the mouth. If this occurs, immediately stop until the mouth is cleared.

When the bird appears to have had enough feeding material, determine the state of fullness of the crop to make sure a sufficient amount of feeding was delivered.

Any excess food material on the skin, beak or feathers should he removed with warm water when the feeding is complete. It can be followed with a few drops of warm water to aid in "cleaning the mouth." Feeding utensils should be cleaned immediately after use. Check the anus to be certain no fecal matter has accumulated. Ideally, monitor the bird's weight daily with an accurate scale. A healthy baby gains weight daily.

Preparation of Baby Bird Formula
Follow the manufacturer's directions when mixing the formula.

Important: "Use distilled or boiled water to eliminate bacteria growth from contaminated tap water." The water should be approximately 105-110 degrees. Add the water to the powder gradually while stirring. After thorough mixing to eliminate lumps, the formula should be the consistency of creamy pudding. This thickness will allow it to be drawn into an eye dropper or syringe or will roll off a spoon. For older birds the mixture may be made thicker.

Do not reuse mixed formula. Discard and mix fresh at each feeding.
If really necessary, sufficient amount of formula may be prepared at one time to last 3 days if covered and refrigerated after preparation. The amount needed for each feeding can be heated and fed but not reused. Caution: You might need to add water in the heating process. Diluting formula by increasing water will reduce the concentration of the diet.

Temperature to Feed Formula
The formula should be served warm- 104-106 F- but not hot, as excess heat may damage the digestive tract. It should feel Slightly warm to the touch. It is highly recommended to use a thermometer to measure the temperature.

In order to maintain the heat of the hand-feeding formula mixture, a double-boiler type arrangement can be set up with the container of prepared formula placed in a bowl or pan of warm water during the feeding process.

Feeding Area
Psittacine birds while being fed should be placed on a surface, such as a towel, where there will be insulative properties to prevent excess heat loss and a surface where they can grip with their feet, preventing slippage and possible injury.

Frequency of Feeding
Cockatiels and Small Parrots
Baby birds can be removed from their parents from between 8 to 21 days. Waiting until 2 1/2 to 3 weeks is safer for the beginner, as the bird is hardier due to the presence of some feathering.

Hatching to 1 week.
If the bird was removed from the nest shortly after hatching, for whatever reason, feeding requires special care. There should be no attempts to feed the bird for at least 12 hours after hatching. The crop is very small and will hold only a limited amount of food. After continued use, it will expand. The first feeding at 12 hours should be one drop of water. Approximately 1/2 to 1 hour later, another drop of water may be given. Feeding too frequently during this period may overload the crop and lead to aspiration and death.

After these initial feedings, if the baby appears normal and is excreting, a few drops of very thin formula can be given. In order that the baby bird receive enough food, the hand-feedings are repeated every two hours around the clock.

One to two weeks - Birds can be fed every 2-3 hours around the dock. If the birds are kept especially warm and comfortable, the night feedings after midnight can be eliminated. However, feedings must begin again at 6:00 AM.

Two to three weeks - This is a relatively safe age to remove the baby birds from the nest for hand-feeding. It is easier to check the crop and feed them. The birds of this age can be fed every three to four hours from 6:00 A.M. to midnight.

Three to four weeks - Feed the birds every 4 hours. As feeding frequency tapers off, the formula can be slightly thickened. At 4 weeks, the birds can be put in a cage with low perches. Water in a bowl may be placed inside.

Five to six weeks - Feed the birds twice daily. A pelleted bird food and other foods may be placed in the cage to encourage the bird to eat on its own.

Seven weeks - Birds should be placed in a large cage with pellets in cups and scattered on the floor. Introduce the birds to a variety of succulent foods, but these should not make up more than 20% of the diet. Vegetables such as peas and corn are well accepted.

Weaning
Birds should not be weaned before 7 weeks, usually about 8 weeks. Before weaning the bird off hand-feeding, keep close watch to see that the bird is actually eating adequate amounts of pellets on its own and not merely nibbling at the food. Handle the crop to determine the fullness and check the breastbone for degree of muscling. A weaning bird may lose as much as 10% of it's weight normally. Any more than that may be an indication of a problem. It is recommended that the bird be weighed regularly through this period.

When first weaning the bird, give them pellets, as these are a nutritionally complete and balanced diet for the bird. It is a good idea to keep an older bird in a cage next to the cage with the young weanling to teach them to eat through mimicry.

If the baby birds are not weaned, they will become "spoiled" and will not eat on their own, preferring to be hand fed. However, if they are weaned too early, they will not eat adequately, gradually lose weight, become weak and die. Therefore, if baby birds are begging to be fed, even after they are weaned, there may need to be a reversal back to hand-feeding as they may not be eating adequately.

FREQUENCY OF HAND-FEEDING COCKATIELS and SMALL PARROTS

Age in Weeks	Number of Daily Feedings
0	Every 2 Hours (Around the Clock)
1	Every 2 Hours (Around the Clock*)
2	Every 3 Hours (6 a. m. to Midnight)
3	"Safest" Period To Begin Hand Feeding Every 4 Hours (6 a.m. to Midnight)
4	Every 5 Hours (6 a.m. to Midnight)
5 to 7	Two Feedings Daily

*If bird is kept especially warm and comfortable, the 2 a.m. and 4 a.m. feedings can be eliminated.

Weaning Period - Important -
Make sure bird is eating adequately on its own before discontinuing hand-feeding. Check fullness of crop.

Housing and Heat
A small cardboard box approximately 12" x12"xl2" or a small fish aquarium with layers of paper towels over a one inch padding of cloth towelling on the bottom will serve as an incubator and holding area while the babies are young. A heating pad is placed under 1/2 of the box or aquarium. A towel is placed over the top. Either the heating pad setting or the amount of the top that is covered by the towel may be adjusted to provide a constant 85-90' for non-feathered birds. The temperature is gradually reduced as they become feathered and mature. It is recommended to observe the babies carefully to determine their comfort level. A cold baby will shiver and a baby that is too hot will not sleep well and will breathe heavily through an open mouth. A bottle or tin filled with water and holes punched in the lid to allow for evaporation will help to provide humidity.

WILD BIRDS
Frequency of Feeding
The frequency and volume of feedings given to baby birds are largely determined by their age. Judging the age of wild birds is difficult if untrained, so the best way to determine feeding requirements is through the use of readily observable changes in the bird. For example, whether or not the eyes are open, and if the bird is standing up "off their hocks."

Before the eyes are open
If the baby birds appear strong and are peeping with their mouths gaping open, then they can eat as much as they want. Ideally, baby birds of this young age should be fed every 15-20 minutes until their eyes are open. They can go up to 30 minutes without a feeding with no ill effects; however, more frequent feedings are preferred. They do not require around-the-dock feeding as in nature, they are fed only during daylight hours. In accordance with this, they are given feedings for a 12 hour period. Nonetheless, hand-feeding wild birds is quite a commitment, as it requires nearly 50 feedings per day.

When the eyes are open
As the bird becomes older, the frequency of hand-feeding can be reduced and the volume increased. Efforts can be initiated to get the bird to eat on its own. When a bird initially opens its eyes, it can be fed every half hour unless hungry or peeping.

When birds are "off their hocks"
When birds become stronger and begin to stand on their legs ("off their hocks'), then feedings can be given every 45 minutes. Time between feedings can steadily increased, and when the bird is out of the nest, feedings can be given at 2 hour intervals.

FREQUENCY OF HAND-FEEDING FOR WILD BIRDS

Age	Number of Daily Feedings
Before Eyes Are Open:	Feed Bird Every 15 Minutes (12 Hour Period)
Eyes Are Open:	Feed Bird Every 30 Minutes (12 Hour Period)
Off Their Hocks	Feed Bird Every 45 Minutes (12 Hour Period)
Bird Out Of Nest: (Standing On Their Own)	Feed Bird Every 2 Hours (12 Hour Period)

*Wean at 15 Days
IMPORTANT-Bird must be eating adequately on its own.

Weaning
Wild birds should begin showing interest in their surroundings and start to eat on their own by 15 days. Provide live food (meal worms) and grass, twigs, etc. in the nest to stimulate interest in the environment. Spreading seed on the bottom of the nest will also encourage the bird to eat on its own.

During the weaning period, it is critical to keep a close watch on the bird in order that good nutrition is maintained. Many times, a bird may be pecking at seed, giving the impression that it is eating, when in actuality, it is not taking in enough for maintenance. Therefore, it is very important to observe if the bird is eating seed during this period and regularly check the crop for fullness.

If other young birds who are eating on their own are present, placing the baby bird in the same cage will hasten socialization, and the bird will learn to eat on its own through the imitation of others.

Housing For Wild Baby Birds
Following nature's design, a nest is constructed. The sides are formed from cloth rolled to a diameter of 1 1/2 inches and then forming a circular shape like a doughnut. The nest would have a diameter of 4-8 inches, depending upon the number and size of the babies. The 1 1/2' height makes the sides of the nest sufficiently high to keep the babies in the nest, but low enough to allow the baby bird to scoot backwards and pass his waste over the side of the nest.

Paper towels are placed in the bottom of the nest to a depth of 1/2 inch and then placed over the top of the entire nest. The towels are arranged to form a sloping surface which enables the bird to back up to the top of the nest to eliminate, and the paper towels can be easily replaced to maintain cleanliness.

Heat and Humidity
To provide heat in the nest box, a heating pad can be placed under half of the nest and dialed to a setting which will maintain temperature of 85-90 degrees for non feathered birds and gradually reduced as they become feathered. By placing heat under half the nest, the bird is able to select the area where the temperature is most comfortable. The box should be kept covered. A bottle or tin filled with water and holes punched in the lid to allow for evaporation will help to provide proper humidity.

Caution
While raising wild birds is rewarding, please, do not make a wild bird a pet. For more information contact your local Wildlife Agency, local Rehabilitation Center, Humane Society, State Fish and Game Agency or the Federal United States Fish and Wildlife Service.

Weaning Pet Birds With Avi-Cakes Food
Your pet birds have received a good start in life through the nutritional benefits of Nutri- Start baby bird food. It is important to continue with high-quality nutrition during the weaning stage and beyond. Lafeber's Avi-Cakes are an excellent weaning food for your birds.

When birds reach the weaning stage, simply break Avi-Cakes into small pieces and spread them near the babies. They will first investigate the food; then, pick it up and start self-feeding. (Supply fresh Avi-Cakes daily.) When the babies are eating the Avi-Cakes you will first want to eliminate the middle of the day hand-fed meal. As the birds continue eating on their own, discontinue the morning and finally the evening hand-fed meal.

Since Avi-Cakes provide complete nutrition for pet birds, you may continue feeding Avi-Cakes or you may choose one of the other fine quality foods manufactured by Lafeber Company.

This bit of information was brought to you by Lafeber Bird Foods

Hand-Feeding Baby Birds | VCA Animal Hospital

General Information

Hand-feeding baby birds is only a substitute for parents raising birds, but it does have certain advantages. Hand-raised baby birds usually make better pets, as they have been completely socialized with humans. Hand-raised babies grow up with less fear of humans or other potential dangers such as cats, dogs and young children. Hand-feeding is a huge responsibility and requires time, patience, and commitment. Hand-fed baby birds are entirely reliant on you for everything. Hand-feeding is a job best left for the experienced bird breeder or aviculturist. If you’re considering hand-feeding a baby bird, you should contact your local bird breeder or veterinarian for help. This handout is designed to provide some basic guidelines on how to hand-feed.

When do I start hand-feeding a baby bird?

A chick may be removed from its parents any time before weaning, but many suggest leaving the babies with the parents for up to 3 weeks. Older birds may prove to be more challenging in their acceptance of hand-feeding.

Where do I keep a baby bird?

Precise temperature and humidity is essential for optimum growth of newly hatched birds. Initially, relative humidity greater than 50% is required. Hatchlings (without feathers) should be maintained at 95°-97°F (35°-36°C). As the chick gets older and develops feathers, it has a greater tolerance for temperature fluctuations.

Generally, the temperature can be lowered by one degree every 2-3 days as feathering progresses. Chicks with new feathers (pinfeathers) should be fine at 75°-85°F (24°-30°C) depending on the development of the feathers. Fully feathered and weaned chicks can be maintained at room temperature. If you are raising a chick, always monitor your bird for signs of overheating or chilling. Wings extended or drooping, and panting indicate overheating. Shivering and cuddling of chicks together indicate that they’re cold.

Poor growth or poor digestion (delayed crop emptying) may indicate poor health (including presence of gastrointestinal tract infections), improper consistency/mixing of hand feeding formula, improper temperature of formula, or improper environmental temperature and humidity. Good quality brooders are available that carefully regulate air circulation, temperature, and humidity. Paper towel, diapers, hand towels, or other soft, disposable products can be used to line the bottom of the brooder and provide secure, clean, dry footing for birds. The bottom liner must be changed frequently to keep birds clean. If the bottom texture is too smooth, chicks’ legs may splay out sideways, leading to permanent deformities. The brooder should be carefully checked to ensure that it does not contain anything for birds to get their wings or legs stuck on or that might cause injury or deformities.

What should I feed my bird?

There are numerous commercially available hand-feeding formulas for baby birds. You should choose one formula and use it until the baby is weaned. Changes in diet may be stressful on the baby's digestion. Be sure to discuss dietary choices with your veterinarian, an experienced bird breeder, or an aviculturist.

How do I feed my baby bird?

All food must be prepared fresh for every feeding. Food retained from one feeding to another is an ideal medium for the growth of harmful bacteria and yeast. Any food prepared or heated in a microwave oven must be mixed thoroughly to ensure that the food’s temperature is uniform and that there are no hot or cold spots. Food temperature should be at 102°-106°F (39°-41°C) throughout the mixture and should be measured with a thermometer. Food that is too hot may cause severe burns to the crop.

Food that is too cold may be rejected by baby birds and may slow down digestion. Hand-feeding formulas have specific directions on the packaging and explain how they should be mixed.

In general, the younger the bird, the thinner the mixture should be. A day-old chick requires a more dilute mixture (90% water), as it is still utilizing the yolk sac as a source of nutrition. Chicks older than one or two days, should have food containing approximately 70-75% liquid.

"All food must be prepared fresh for every feeding."

Syringes are probably the preferred feeding tool, but some bird owners still prefer a spoon with the sides bent up and inward. Accurate feeding volumes can be recorded with the syringe. Charting daily feedings is important. The natural feeding response of a baby bird is to rapidly bob the head in an up and down motion. This action can be stimulated with gentle finger pressure at the corners of the mouth. During this head bobbing, the trachea is closed and large amounts of food can be given relatively quickly.

If the bird is not displaying a strong feeding response, do not attempt to feed as there is an increased chance of aspiration of food into the trachea and lungs which can lead to death. The best time to feed is when the crop is empty. When full, the crop, which is the sac that hangs over the front of the chest at the base of the neck, will be visibly distended.

How often and how much do I feed?

The amount and frequency of feeding depends on the age of the bird and the formula fed. The frequency of feeding for young birds is greater than that of older birds. The following are general guidelines. With newly hatched chicks, the yolk sac is the source of nutrients for the first 12-24 hours post-hatching. Chicks less than one week old should be fed 6-10 times per day (every 2-3 hours).

During the first week of life, some birds benefit from feeding during the night. Chicks that have not yet opened their eyes may take 5-6 feedings per day (every 3-4 hours). Once birds’ eyes open, they can have 3-5 feedings (one every 5 hours). As their feathers start to grow in, they may be fed 2-3 times per day (every 6 hours). Their crops should appear full when they’re done.

Feeding between 10:00 p.m. and 6:00 a.m. is not necessary at that point when birds are sleeping. The best indication of a healthy, growing chick is a good, strong feeding response at every feeding, with the crop emptying between feedings, and the regular production of droppings (feces). Weight gain should be monitored and recorded at the same time each day using a scale that weighs in grams with 1-gram increments to detect subtle increases or decreases. Birds’ weights may fluctuate up and down daily but should trend upward over a period of days to weeks. Birds that are not gaining weight should be checked by a veterinarian as soon as possible.

When should birds be weaned off hand-feeding formula?

Deciding when to wean a bird off of formula is often a difficult decision for both the bird owner and the bird. As a bird gets older and develops a full complement of feathers, it should be encouraged to wean off formula and to eat more on its own. Some babies start weaning themselves by refusing certain feedings.

Birds should be offered a variety of foods including formulated pelleted diets as well as fresh fruits and vegetables to encourage exploration and experimentation. As food introduction continues, hand-feeding may be withheld at certain times, often starting with the mid-day feedings. As time goes on, the morning feeding may be withheld and ultimately the evening feeding. Some birds learn quicker to eat on their own by watching other birds or older babies eat.

Should I be concerned about disinfection?

Baby birds have poorly developed immune systems and are more susceptible to developing infections. The brooder should be disinfected regularly. All feeding utensils must be cleaned, disinfected, and dried thoroughly between feedings. Using separate feeding utensils for every individual bird is recommended.

How do I know if something is wrong?

If you suspect something is wrong with your bird, you should immediately contact your veterinarian. Signs to watch for include:

Chirping or crying all the time
Fussing a lot and not sleeping
Listless, droopy wings or head
Not accepting food
Lack of feeding response
Slow or lack of crop emptying
Poor weight gain
Slow growth
Abnormal posturing or abnormal wing and/or leg positions
Abnormal or lack of droppings
Wetness or food on skin over the crop (indicating a possible burn)

Parrots: maintenance and feeding - Veterinary clinics CityVet

Keeping parrots
Parrot feeding
Frequently asked questions

Let's make a reservation right away that in this article we will talk about those birds that are most often started at home - about parrots. If you have a canary, dove or crow, it is better to consult a specialist separately.

Keeping parrots

Before you bring your parrot home, prepare a spacious cage for him. Preferably rectangular. The cage should have everything you need - a drinking bowl, a feeder, perches of the appropriate diameter, perches, a feeder with river sand or grated shells, a bathing suit, a mirror and other toys, a mineral stone. At the bottom of the cage, you can lay sawdust or paper. The cage should not stand in a draft, not in the sun, there should not be heaters turned on nearby.

Birds may be stressed after transport, so don't be surprised if they don't eat well or pluck themselves. Do not try to pick up the bird right away - give him time to get used to you.

If there are still birds in the house, you should not immediately add a “newcomer” to them. For 3 weeks he must be quarantined and kept separately.

Parrot food

Today there is a wide variety of ready-made food for parrots. We recommend imported food. They are better balanced in composition. Plus, it is recommended to add fresh fruits and vegetables to the finished grain mixture (grated carrots, apples, pears, bananas, grapes, etc.)

Frequently asked questions

How to determine the sex of a parrot?

It is practically impossible to determine the sex of a bird 100% externally. The genitals are inside, and the color of the feathers and the color of the wax do not always match the sex. It is believed that male budgerigars have blue cere, while females have pink-brown. In males of necklace parrots, a necklace appears around the neck by the age of 2, some parrots - males have a brighter color. You can also guess the gender of the parrot by behavior. There is a laboratory method for determining the sex of a bird by litter. It can be done in our clinic. But 100% gender can only be determined by DNA analysis. It is better to check with a specialist for details.

Parrot plucks itself.

What to do?

Several options are possible here: shedding pathologies, hormonal disorders, internal and external parasites, viral infections, liver and kidney pathologies, feeding and housing disorders or psychological disorders. To make an accurate diagnosis, you need to show the bird to the doctor.

The parrot is sitting, ruffled, has become “sad”, does not sing

Pay attention to the quantity and nature of the litter, its color. Is there any discharge from the nose, eyes. Does the bird regurgitate food? If the bird stays like this for more than 2 days, show it to the doctor.

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than feed the wavy parrot: the advice of a specialist - zo -hard - Tverskoy

02/15/2017 Zonovo -stroke parrots, animal feed, birds Zooredactor

established that wild wavy parrotes were eaten in Australia - eat in Austral seed type 39 plant species. And what food can we offer our wavy pets here in Russia so that they feel no worse than their relatives in nature? With this question, the ZooTver portal turned to a connoisseur of budgerigars, Olga Makurina from Rzhevity, who raised more than one generation of these birds at home. Read the interview with her below.

Let's introduce our expert.

Makurina Olga Yurievna, budgerigar breeder. Currently, Olga Yuryevna has about 30 adult "wavy", of which 8 are exhibition (Czechs). The offspring of her birds live in many cities of the Tver region and Russia. In addition, she is a moderator on the popular budgerigar forum: she answers questions from users and gives recommendations to newcomers. Olga Yuryevna has already been visiting the ZooTver portal. An interview with her tips for choosing budgerigars can be read here.

Hello again, Olga Yurievna! Among the owners of budgerigars there are those who will say that there is no problem in feeding these birds. You buy ready-made food for "wavy" and that's it. Or is a more rigorous approach needed?

Hello everyone! Of course, a more rigorous approach is needed if you want your budgie to be healthy and happy for many years to come. But this is not a problem at all if you get acquainted with the information on feeding parrots in time and follow the basic rules. One dry food is not enough for the full nutrition of a parrot, this is only the basis of the diet. The parrot needs to be given vegetables, fruits, fresh herbs, twigs.

What, in your opinion, should be the main criterion when choosing a ready-made food for parrots: composition, manufacturer or something else?

Pet stores now offer a large selection of different foods for budgerigars and which one to prefer is a personal matter for each owner and the tastes of a parrot. As a rule, almost all feeds have a balanced composition. I would advise taking into account the reviews of the owners of parrots when choosing a brand of food.

It is difficult for an ignorant person to navigate this wealth of choice of food for parrots

food for insects and pests. It is very important to strictly monitor the expiration date and the quality of the feed. If you opened the pack and saw mold, dirt, insects, or felt an unpleasant smell, in no case should you feed it to a parrot. Place such food in the trash can.

Is it possible to refuse commercially produced food and try to create a complete diet for your feathered pet on your own?

You can refuse, but it is not so easy to make a complete food with the right proportions. And even if you learn how to do it, not all the necessary ingredients can be bought separately. I see no reason for the owners of 1-2 parrots, as they say, to "bother". Breeders who have many birds make their own food.

What treats can be given to parrots and how much?

I am against all kinds of honey sticks, rings and other treats. I give my parrots Senegalese millet, chumiza, paiza - these are ears dried without the use of adhesives. They are sold in pet stores. For one bird per day, a small piece 2-3 cm long is sufficient.0010 Perhaps someone considers fruits, vegetables, herbs to be a delicacy. I classify them as must-haves, not treats. That is, they should not be given from time to time, but regularly. Parrots love to chew on things. So that the wallpaper and furniture in the apartment do not suffer, hang twigs with bark (well washed) in a cage or in places of walking, replace some of the perches with such branches. This is both a treat and entertainment for your pet.

Mineral stone or sepia (cuttlefish shell) must be hung in the cage at all times. This is a source of calcium. In addition, birds sharpen their beaks on it. Adult parrots also need to hang an additional feeder with a mineral mixture. I do not recommend for chicks.

Cuttlefish shell (sepia)

Tell us, have you changed the principles of feeding your pets?

I immediately read everything related to feeding, so I did not change the principles, but at first I tried different foods. As a result, I chose one brand and have been using it only for many years.

Are there any foods that parrots are willing to eat, but they are strictly forbidden to them?

Of course there are. Parrots are strictly forbidden food from our table, they can not have dairy, sweet, salty, fatty, chocolate, cheese, as well as fresh bread. If you like that the bird eats from your plate, then put grated carrots or beets in this plate, for example. And when you eat your food, it is better to close the bird in the cage. In the printed literature, there is information that parrots should be given bread soaked in milk. I do not recommend following this advice: parrots cannot digest milk, and bread can clog their goiter. Do not give the "wavy" spicy herbs - dill, parsley and so on. There is also a list of prohibited fruits and vegetables, poisonous houseplants, which you should definitely read. It is easy to find it on the Internet.

Do not let parrots on home plants, it is better to grow special grass for them

Does the diet depend on the age of the bird, its sex, the presence of offspring, molting?

Yes, it depends. Feeding birds during the nesting period is significantly different from the usual diet. But this is a separate topic that deserves careful study, it will not work in a nutshell. There are also differences based on age. Before the first molt, chicks need to add soft food: egg mash, sprouts, cereals. Adult birds do not need cereals, and if the birds are not on the nest, then it is not recommended to give an egg; seedlings with care so as not to provoke unwanted laying. During the molting period, you can use special feeds, or you can enrich the diet yourself with calcium and sulfur preparations. With any use of vitamins and supplements, it is imperative to clarify the dosages and not exceed them.

What are the consequences of malnutrition?

Improper nutrition can cause not only obesity, but also metabolic disorders, which will subsequently lead to numerous diseases of the parrot, and ultimately to premature death.

How can you tell by the appearance or behavior of a bird that it is suffering from malnutrition or malnutrition?

Overweight birds can be seen immediately, and obese birds can hardly fly. It is more difficult with a lack of weight: under the feather it is not always easy to notice that the parrot has lost weight. When probing, you can feel that the keel is “sharp” and sticks out - this is a sign of exhaustion. If malnutrition has led to a disease of the gastrointestinal tract, then the litter will worsen: it will become liquid or change color.

Improper nutrition can also affect the quality of plumage. It is better not to wait until the consequences become noticeable, because it is very difficult to bring the bird back to normal, and sometimes the treatment costs many times more than the bird itself.

Probably, so that the parrot does not have, on the one hand, obesity, and on the other, malnutrition, it is important to know not only the composition of the diet, but also its volume? Then how much does an adult bird need per day of grain mixture, how many vegetables and fruits?

2 teaspoons of grain feed per bird per day. Young chicks (up to 4 months old) need to pour more - up to 3 tablespoons. They are still growing, and obesity does not threaten them. Feed should be renewed daily, pouring the daily rate into the feeder. Fruits and vegetables can not be limited, but everything that is not eaten during the day should be removed.

Didn't you forget to add grain feed today?!

We know that there are animals in nature that practically do not drink and get water along with the food they eat. But budgerigars are not one of those, are they? In this case, when and how often should they drink?

A drinking bowl with fresh, unboiled water, filtered or bottled, must be kept in the cage at all times. The drinker should be washed daily and the water changed. The bird drinks when it wants, they drink a little, you may not even notice even once during the day when the parrot comes to the drinker.

Many owners dream of teaching their budgie to eat with their hands. Is it worth it? If there is nothing wrong, maybe you will advise how to achieve this skill?

I don't see anything wrong with that. But do not forget that the bird should be fully fed from the feeder, and treats can be given from the hand. This is one of the most common ways to tame parrots. Birds get used to the diet you set for them. Try every day before pouring fresh food into the feeder, offer the parrot a “yummy” from the palm of your hand. As a rule, the parrot is already hungry and is waiting to be fed. 10 minutes a day is enough, but if you are ready to communicate with the bird for longer, then you will achieve results faster. Perhaps it will take time, you will have to sit in front of the cage with an “outstretched hand” for more than one day. But the result is worth it. Someone is tamed faster, someone is slower, be patient, it's your desire to have a tame bird.

To achieve results, you will have to sit for more than one day “with outstretched hand”

In this interview, you said a lot of useful things. But not every reader will remember everything. Can you boil down this information into a few short rules that will never make a mistake when choosing food for your budgerigar?

There is a lot of information, I have not stated all of it. But I'll try:

- Pick one brand of food you trust and don't change it. Any transition to a new food should be done gradually so as not to cause problems with the gastrointestinal tract. Feed must not be expired or spoiled.

- Be sure to give the parrot fruits, vegetables, fresh herbs and twigs from the allowed list. You can find this list on the thematic forums about budgerigars.

- Never feed a parrot your own food.

- Change the feed daily, filling the feeder with the daily amount (approximately 2 teaspoons per bird). Make sure that the parrot eats everything, poor appetite is an alarming sign.

- If you are not sure about the usefulness of the product, it is better not to give it to the bird.