What food can baby bunnies eat

Feeding Your Rabbit | VCA Animal Hospital

Rabbits are herbivores (plant eaters) and are considered grazers, in that they eat continuously. They have complex digestive systems and are very efficient at processing food. They also have very specific dietary needs. If you introduce new foods too quickly, or feed inappropriate food choices, the rabbit's normal digestive flora (normal bacteria) will be disturbed, gas- and toxin-producing bacteria can overgrow, and the rabbit may become very sick and possibly die.

What do rabbits eat?

Rabbits should have a daily diet of mostly hay, a smaller amount of fresh vegetables, and a limited number of pellets. Hay is the most important part of a rabbit's daily intake. Unlimited, high-quality grass hay, such as Timothy, orchard or brome, should make up the bulk of a rabbit's diet. Grass hay is high in fiber, which is critical to maintaining a rabbit’s healthy digestive tract. While young, growing rabbits can eat any type of grass hay, alfalfa hay is not recommended for adult rabbits, as it is too rich in protein and too high in calcium.

Timothy pellets can be offered at approximately 1/8-1/4 cup per 5 lbs (2.25 kg) of bodyweight. Over-feeding pellets to adult rabbits is a common cause of obesity and soft stool (caused by an overgrowth of abnormal bacteria in the gastrointestinal (GI) tract), as pellets are generally low in fiber and high in carbohydrates. In addition to hay, wild rabbits eat a lot of other fresh vegetation.

A pet rabbit's diet should be supplemented with a variety of leafy green vegetables every day. Rabbits can consume as many vegetables as they want to each day as long as they do not get diarrhea and as long as the vegetables are not high in carbohydrates, as carrots and potatoes are. Variety is important. Introduce new vegetables slowly and in small quantities, and monitor for soft feces, diarrhea, or signs of gas pain.

"Carrots should be fed sparingly, as they are very high in carbohydrate and may upset GI bacterial flora."

Particularly good vegetables include the dark leafy greens like romaine lettuce, bok choy, mustard greens, carrot tops, cilantro, watercress, basil, kohlrabi, beet greens, broccoli greens, and cilantro.

Some leafy greens, such as collard and dandelion greens, parsley, kale, Swiss chard, and escarole, should be fed in limited quantities, as they are high in calcium and may contribute to the development of calcium-based bladder stones if fed in excess. Other acceptable vegetables include broccoli, green peppers, Brussel sprouts, endive, wheat grass, radicchio, and squash. Iceberg or head lettuce should not be fed, as it is mainly water and contains few nutrients.

Carrots should be fed sparingly, as they are very high in carbohydrate and may upset GI bacterial flora. A small amount of many different vegetables is much better than a large amount of one food item.

Young rabbits, under approximately 7-8 months old, should be fed alfalfa pellets and alfalfa hay free-choice; they need the extra protein and calcium as they grow. They, too, can have a variety of vegetables. At approximately 7 months, they must be weaned onto an adult diet, as described above, since their growth slows down.

How often should I feed my rabbit?

Rabbits should be fed and provided with fresh water daily; hay should always be available. As nibblers, they should have food available at all times.

Do I need to give my rabbit vitamins?

No, rabbits do not require extra vitamins. They just need a varied, high-fiber diet.

Can I offer my rabbit treats?

Yes, but first be sure to check with your veterinarian about the types of treats that are recommended. Rabbits certainly can become overweight if fed an abundance of high-calorie treats. Cookies, nuts, seeds, grains, and bread should not be fed to rabbits.

"Cookies, nuts, seeds, grains, and bread should not be fed to rabbits."

Fruits can be fed in very limited quantities – no more than 1-2 tablespoons of high-fiber fresh fruit (such as apple, pear, or berries) every 1-2 days. The high sugar content in fruits (and even carrots) may upset the normal GI tract bacteria if given in excess.

What are the water requirements of rabbits?

Fresh water should be available 24 hours a day. Some rabbits prefer water bowls, and others prefer sipper bottles. If you offer water in a sipper bottle, be sure to inspect it for clogs and fill it with clean water daily. If you offer your rabbit water in a bowl, make sure the rabbit does not spill it in its cage or soil it with feces.

Is there anything else I should know?

Rabbits need to chew to maintain the health of their continuously growing teeth. Chew toys should always be available; hard wooden chew toys (blocks and sticks) and cardboard are best.

"Rabbits engage in coprophagy, which means they eat their own feces."

Rabbits engage in coprophagy, which means they eat their own feces. This occurs at night, and these fecal pellets are different from the ones normally excreted and seen by the owners. They are called cecotropes, cecal droppings, nocturnal droppings, or night droppings. They are usually small, soft or pasty, darker, and have a strong fermented or sweet smell. These pellets serve as a rich source of nutrients for the rabbit, specifically protein and vitamins B and K. Most owners never observe this behavior, as it happens in the early hours of the morning. If you do, remember that it is normal and necessary for the health of your rabbit.

Diet for Young/Baby Rabbits

Rabbit House > Rabbit Diet & Nutrition >

What you feed you rabbit has a big impact on their health and well-being. Feeding the correct diet to a young rabbit will support their growth and help them form good eating habits, which in turn will help avoid many diet related issues in adulthood.

Although young rabbits eat the same types of foods as adults, we need to take into account the different nutritional needs of their growing bodies and the extra sensitivity of their developing digestive system.

Baby rabbits' diet

Like all mammals rabbit's initial diet is their mother's milk, which they'll continue to drink until 6-8 weeks old. They first start nibbling on solids (usually hay from around the nest) between 2-3 weeks and by 3-4 they'll be eating the same foods as their mum (plus milk).

As rabbits are weaning between 6-8 weeks their digestive system is adjusting from milk to adult solids, which is a particularly sensitive time and why rabbits should stay with their mother for a minimum of 8 weeks. If your rabbit is younger than 8 weeks: one, never get a rabbit from that source again they shouldn't be selling them, and two, you'll need to be particularly careful about your bunny's diet and try to avoid any changes.

Consistency

One of the key points in feeding any young rabbit is consistency. Baby's digestive systems are much more sensitive to changes in food and they are more susceptible to digestive related problems and can go downhill more quickly if they do get sick. Moving home is already a stressful time for a young rabbit so it is best to avoid changes to food at the same time.

When you get a rabbit you should ask exactly what food your baby has been eating and make sure you get a supply of the same brand food to start you off. In most cases it will do less harm to continue temporarily with a bad diet e.g. low quality pellets or mix, rather than make a sudden change to a 'good' diet.

If you don't know what your rabbit was fed prior to you getting it or you can't get hold of a supply then the safest option is to start with just hay and water. You can then introduce the other components to their diet gradually.

Ideal diet for young rabbits

The diet of young rabbits and adults is very similar. Hay is the most important component and this is supplemented with dry food (pellets) and fresh foods. There are a few extra considerations for young rabbits though.

Hay

Like adults, hay should play an important role in young rabbit's diet. Grass hay (e.g. meadow or timothy) is the one food you should introduce from the start, even if your rabbit isn't already eating it. This is the gentlest food on the gut and will provide the fibre needed for the digestive process to function.

Young rabbits can also have alfalfa, which looks a bit like chopped up hay but is made from lucerne rather than grass. It is higher in calcium and protein than grass hay, which is ideal for growing rabbits but too rich for adults.

If you are feeding alfalfa it's a good idea to feed it mixed with grass hay. This stops your rabbits getting so hooked on alfalfa that it's difficult to make the transition to grass hay when they reach adulthood. You should phase out alfalfa at around 4-5 months old.

Learn more about types of hay here

Dry Food

Baby rabbits have higher protein requirements to support their growth, so whilst an adult requires dry food around 12-14% protein, for a baby rabbit around 16% protein is ideal. Many manufactures offer junior versions of their foods specifically formulated with this in mind.

The most popular brands in the UK are Supreme and Burgess. Allen & Page is only available in large bags, aimed at breeders rather than people feeding one or two bunnies. Oxbow is also a good brand and very popular in the US, it's more expensive in the UK as it's imported.

Brand	Fibre	Protein	Ingredients	Cost
Supreme Science Selective Junior Rabbit	19%	17%	Alfalfa, wheat, soybean hulls...	£3.13 for 1.5kg (£2.09 / kg)
Burgess Excel - Junior and Dwarf	17%	16%	Grass, Oat Bran, Wheat...	£8.50 for 2kg (£4.25 per kg)
Allen & Page Breeder Grower	18%	15%	Grass meal wheatfeed, oat feed, nutritionally improved straw...	£16 for 20kg (80p/kg)
Oxbow Essentials/Bunny Basics - Young Rabbit Food	22-25%	15%	Alfalfa Meal, Soybean Hulls, Wheat Middlings...	£11.55 for 2.25kg (£5.13 per kg)

It's also possible to meet young rabbit's protein needs simply by feeding a larger portion of adult pellets, but it's important to ensure they don't eat fill up on pellets and avoid hay.

Should I feed unlimited pellets?

It's suggested in some books that young rabbits be given unlimited access to pellets but doing this can create issues later on.

As with people, good habits are often formed when young, and it is very important for your rabbit's future health that they get into the habit of eating lots of hay. It's much more difficult to introduce hay to an adult that has not grown up eating it. Pellets are extremely tasty and rabbits often prefer them to hay, so having unlimited pellets available can mean young rabbits eat little or no hay, a habit that can cause dental problems and make them more prone to digestive issues.

Pellets were designed for commercial breeders to make rabbits grow quickly, but in this situation little attention was given to the long term health or lifespan. Remember, wild rabbits grow up just fine on a diet exclusively plant material. Unlimited pellets are not necessary to rabbit's development.

For these reasons, it's a good idea to restrict pellets to a certain extent even in young rabbits, although they can have more than an adult.

How much dry food?

It's difficult to give an exact quantity because it will depend on the nutritional content of the pellets (high or low protein), your individual rabbit's growth, what other foods they are eating (e.g. alfalfa) and their activity levels. I also know though, it's difficult to estimate, particularly if you're a first time owner so as a rough guide 25g per 1kg of expected adult weight for high protein pellets and a little more if you are feeding adult pellets. You can split the feed into two so they are spread out over the day/night.

With this as a basis you can observe your rabbit and adjust if necessary. If your rabbit is active and healthy looking, and eating lots of hay you have it about right. If they are not eating much hay or produce soft droppings then reduce the quantity.

Changing dry food

Changes to dry food brands or varieties need to be done gradually over 7-10 days, by gradually reducing the amount of old food and increasing the new. If you have enough of the old food, it's a good idea to allow your rabbit to settle in before making a change, even if the old food isn't great quality.

If you don't have any of the old food, then just gradually introduce the new food over the same period, gradually building up the quantity over 7-10 days. Your rabbit will top up on hay in the interim.

Fresh Foods

When can a baby rabbit have fresh foods?

If you read some old books you might find it suggested that rabbits are not given any fresh foods until they are 6 months old. This is an over simplified approach that came about because people would buy young rabbits, often at an age when they should still be with their mum, take them home and feed them things like carrot or lettuce, and then find that they become ill with digestive problems. Telling people not to give any fresh foods was easy to remember and helped bypass these issues.

However, providing you follow a few simple rules, it's fine to introduce fresh foods to young rabbits.

If a rabbit's mother was fed fresh foods whilst she was raising the litter, your baby will have been nibbling those too and it's fine to continue providing these same foods. The key is to ask what your rabbit is used to and continue that - consistency.

If your rabbit has not access to fresh foods before, then allow them to settle in before introducing new foods so you aren't making lots of changes at an already stressful time. Twelve weeks or two weeks after you've got your bunny, whichever is later, is a good guide. If your rabbit has had any digestive issues then hold off a little longer.

Introducing fresh foods

New fresh foods need to be introduced slowly so your rabbit's gut bacteria can adapt to processing the new food. It's a good idea to introduce one type of food at a time, then if your rabbit is sensitive to one type it's easy to identify and avoid in future.

If you find your rabbit's droppings change from their normal solid round pellets, this is a sign that you may be going too fast or that particular food doesn't agree with them. Stopping the fresh foods for a few days should return them to normal.

What fresh foods for a baby rabbit?

Leafy greens, except lettuce, are best for rabbits for example dandelion leaves, carrot tops, kale, spinach, spring greens, raspberry/blackberry leaves and herbs such as parsley and basil. For young rabbits first introduction to greens it's best to avoid fruits, though these can be introduced as treats later.

Start with small pieces e.g. 2" square as a test as build up the amount and variety gradually.

Problems

Keep an eye on your rabbit's droppings, changes in these are generally the first sign that you've gone a little fast with introducing new foods. The most common problem is excess cecotropes - the type of dropping that rabbits usually eat. They are soft and can end up stick the fur or squidged on the floor. They are usually resolved by cutting out fresh foods and reducing dry food for a couple of days so your rabbit eats plenty of hay.

If your rabbit stops producing droppings, refuses food or has watery droppings seek immediate veterinary advice. Young rabbits are very fragile and can become very sick in a matter of hours.

Transitioning to an Adult Diet

Rabbit's grow most rapidly in the first three months of life. At four months you should begin reducing pellets, and if you are feeding a higher protein pellets changing over to adult pellets. If you've fed alfalfa, it's also time to start decreasing this in favour of grass hay. Your rabbit should be on an adult ration by 6-7 months old. Giant breed rabbits mature more slowly and do more growing than small ones so you may want to delay by a month for breeds like Giants and French Lops. Rabbit's will continue to growing at a much slower rate for a few more months, filling out rather than getting larger.

weekly, monthly and after jigging

Little rabbits, like all babies in the animal kingdom, need a balanced diet. In the first days and weeks, their life is completely dependent on mother's milk. And then the whole responsibility falls on the shoulders of a person. There are several options for feeding little rabbits and how to organize their diet at different ages.

At home, the most difficult thing is the proper nutrition of young animals after birth. All the most important elements for life at first come to animals with colostrum and rabbit milk. But even if the mother does not feed the kids, you can create the most complete diet for them. Young animals after the first weeks of life, for example, at the age of 14-20 days, it is already easier to keep, but there are some nuances. So, let's find out how to feed rabbits in different periods of their lives.

Content

1 from birth to week
2 complementary foods of two -week babies
3 How to feed menstruation rabbits
4 After a junction from mother
5 Double -month
6 “Rabbits, they eat a salad together with rabbits”
- 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 Similar articles

Birth to one week old

From the very birth, the main food of rabbits is mother's milk. If the female behaves normally, she is healthy and feeds the babies well, there is no cause for concern. During this period, the task of a person is to monitor the relationship between mother and newborn children as much as possible. Otherwise, there will be little milk and artificial feeding will be needed.

If a mother for various reasons does not feed her cubs, then improvised means will already be used. Small rabbits that are less than seven days old can be given milk or formula milk. Milk is taken from goat or cow, at the rate of 1 ml for each feeding. In total, babies eat five times a day with an 8-hour night break. The number of daily feedings is at least 3, plus one in the late evening and one in the early morning.

At the age of one week, apart from milk, nothing else is included in the diet of rabbits.

At the end of the first week, babies are already covered in down, becoming heavier, ideally they should double their birth weight. Young animals eat the same amount as at birth, however, after 7 days, you can slightly increase the amount of food for feeding. An important clarification: cow's milk is mixed 1:1 with condensed milk and so given, and goat's milk is given in its pure form. The milk mixture at home is diluted twice as concentrated as indicated on the jar.

Complementary foods for 2 week old babies

Small rabbits that are already 14 days old are fed more intensively. At this time, you need to look to see if they have enough mother's milk. If not, the babies squeak and constantly reach for the nipples of the rabbit, it is worth turning on the feeding. Like week-old babies, they are fed only milk, they do not offer other food. You also need to feed babies if they are stunted and not gaining weight.

If during this period, the female no longer feeds, then we switch to artificial feeding. The number of feedings is reduced to 3 per day. Young animals after two weeks from about 20 days will already be able to drink from a saucer, so you will not need a nipple or syringe. Strong young animals already weigh 500 grams by this age, and by 20 days already almost 600 (consider the breed). A milk ration will be necessary for rabbits at least until they are one month old.

From birth to three weeks, rabbits are fed only with mother's milk or are fed artificially with milk mixtures. From 17-20 days you can offer them fresh hay in small quantities, as well as a little finely grated fresh carrots.

If the children are kept together with the rabbit and feed on her milk, the transition to adult food will be smoother and more natural. The rabbits will instinctively eat what is good for them if the female leads by example.

How to feed monthly rabbits

Young rabbits after the age of 20 days and up to a month can already chew their own food. This is due to the fact that after a 20-day milestone, the teeth of the rodents will partially change, part of the milk ones will be replaced by permanent ones. For monthly pets, milk is no longer so necessary, in the diet it takes about 25%. Strengthened rabbits begin to give more hay, green mash, bran, dried wild plants. After a month, many breeders generally transfer their rabbits to an adult diet.

Ever since the gradual decrease in the milk content and the increase in the proportion of solid and succulent feed, babies also need clean water. The more rabbits drink, the less kidney problems they will have. Young animals must be forced to drink (from a syringe), if they do not drink themselves. Until the age of 30-45 days, it is better to compensate for the liquid not with water, but with milk, especially in winter.

After weaning from mother

After jigging rabbits from their mother (and this happens at different times, but not earlier than 20-24 days), you need to carefully monitor their digestion. Having ceased to receive part of the enzymes with milk from the mother, grown-up babies learn to digest coarser food. From the age of 20 days, the rabbits fed by their mother try a little adult food. Therefore, after jigging, the process of adaptation to coarser, juicier or green food goes naturally.

During this period, animals are boldly given vegetables and cereals. Good soft hay is also introduced, a small amount of grass pellets (about 3% of the rabbit's weight per day). You can give young animals cooled grain brewed with boiling water, greens of wild plants, a little bran. When more than 20 days have passed since jigging, the rabbits can be completely transferred to an adult diet. In the morning they give dry food, more moist food - in the middle of the day.

Bimonthly

So, your rabbits are no longer a week, not 20 days, or even a month, but two whole - how to feed two-month-old individuals? Here the matter is small - just arrange for them the right diet with plenty of fiber. Let's have some purchased compound feed, again, hay, herbal mixtures with nettle, dandelion, fireweed and other herbs, bran.

What about your favorite treat - vegetables? Some breeders of rabbits say that juicy food should be given only after 2 months. However, if your pets live with their mother in a cage, they will inevitably try such food sooner. Do not worry, it is important to control their nutrition after transplanting, then everything will be fine.

Video "Rabbits eat salad with a rabbit"

In this video, we can watch how already grown cubs, together with their mother, appetizingly crunch salad, which belongs just to juicy food. In small quantities, such a product will not harm, but will be useful.

How to feed rabbits at home

Proper feeding of rabbits requires balanced mixtures containing a certain norm of necessary products and having a high nutritional value. Without observing this condition, it is impossible to achieve good growth and strong immunity in animals. By adjusting the diet of rabbits, you can improve the quality of meat and fur, increase the survival of offspring and maximize the potential of the breed.

What can rabbits eat?
Benefits of specialty foods
Benefits of compound feed produced by MEGAMIX
Feeding norms and rations
Self-preparation of feed
Nuances of feeding rabbits depending on the season
What should not be fed to rabbits?

What can rabbits eat?

The metabolism of rodents is so intense that they need to constantly eat for the proper functioning of all body systems. If the rabbit for some reason stops eating, then during the day there is a malfunction in the digestive tract. This entails serious consequences for health, up to and including death.

Compound feed for rabbits is complete and concentrated. The first one provides all the needs of animals in calories and nutrients. The second is used as a supplement to the main diet. Young rabbits reach a commercial weight of 3.5–4.5 kg, provided that they are properly fed, at the age of 4–5 months, and an adult female brings 30 or more cubs per year. If the diet is balanced and meets the needs of the breed, the rabbit is capable of the next reproductive cycle as early as 3-5 days after birth.

Livestock specialists have repeatedly researched the best way to feed rabbits. The diet of meat and decorative animals should include the following products:

Cereals (concentrated feed) have the highest nutritional value. They contain a large amount of protein and a minimum of water. Oats are considered the best grain, as they are well absorbed, have a positive effect on intestinal motility and reproductive functions, and do not contribute to obesity. It is used in the form of whole or crushed grains. Rye, barley and wheat are offered to rabbits in the form of crushed, mixed with other feeds.

It should be remembered that you can not give a lot of wheat, and it is better to remove the shell from barley. These grains are difficult to digest, often leading to bloating. Many farmers recommend pre-treatment of grain products: soaking, sprouting, steaming or yeasting. Sprouting allows you to increase the amount of vitamins and increase protein digestibility. Yeasting improves the digestibility of fiber, but feeding animals with such grains for more than 5 days in a row is undesirable, as it can provoke fermentation in the intestines.

Green foods form the basis of the rabbit diet from spring to late autumn. This type of food includes: vegetable tops; fodder cabbage; wild herbs; seeded cereals and legumes. Nettle, wormwood, dandelion, couch grass, plantain, quinoa are considered the most suitable wild plants. Freshly cut greens are recommended to be slightly dried and dried in the sun. The tops of fodder and sugar beets, carrots, turnips, rutabaga, Jerusalem artichokes are also suitable as green fodder. Sugar and fodder beet tops are not recommended for young animals. It has laxative properties, therefore, along with it, animals are advised to give plant foods that have a fixing effect. For these purposes, yarrow, comfrey, branches and leaves of oak and alder are suitable. In the mass of green fodder beet tops should not be more than 30%.

The aerial part of legumes, legumes and cereals is rich in vitamins and minerals, and also contains a large amount of proteins. However, experienced rabbit breeders advise using the above plants in a mixture with other feeds, since herbs alone will not be able to provide good nutrition and can lead to bloating in animals.

The diet of rabbits should be approximately 25% roughage. These include: hay, straw, tree branches. The optimal harvesting time is in spring and summer. Such food is very important, as it creates a feeling of satiety and contains fiber necessary for the normal functioning of the digestive tract.

The main share of roughage is hay. Harvest it using the same herbs as for green fodder. Legume hay has much more plant protein than grain hay, so it is more nutritious. Haylage is under-dried hay pressed into briquettes. Rabbits eat it with gusto, and also love clean straw if it's well dried.

Juicy food (vegetables)

Potato: high in fast digesting starch. It is recommended to give in boiled form;
Carrots contain C and B vitamins vital for breeders, pregnant/nursing females and growing rabbits. It is the main source of carotene in winter. The daily norm for an adult animal is up to half a kilogram. Young rabbits are started on portions weighing 20–30 g.
Cabbage contains many minerals, vitamins C and E. Helps to improve the quality of the skin and fur. Introduced into the diet of animals gradually, used both raw and boiled.
Zucchini helps to better assimilate other foods. They are given fresh.
Pumpkin improves coat quality and has a positive effect on milk production in lactating rabbits. It has a good effect on digestion and weight gain in animals. Offered to rabbits both raw and boiled.
Feed and sugar beet improves metabolism and blood quality, improves immunity. Use raw or boiled, no more than 150–200 g for young animals and 250–300 g for adults per day. Excess beets can lead to diarrhea in animals. Table varieties are strictly prohibited.
The diet of rabbits also includes melons, watermelons, turnips, Jerusalem artichokes, and radishes. However, their nutritional value is not very high.

Processed products of legumes and oilseeds (meal, cake of soybeans, peas, beans, sunflower, hemp, flax) are sources of fatty acids necessary for the body, including essential ones.

The composition of feed mixtures necessarily introduce products of animal origin: meat and bone or fish meal. Meat and bone contains about 40% protein and 14% fat, while fish contains about 45% protein and 7% fat. Flour is mixed into wet food in small portions - 5–10 g per individual.

Also, table salt must be present in the diet of rabbits. The rabbit needs 0.5–1 gram per day. For adults, the rate is increased by 1.5–2 times. When fattening animals, the daily amount of salt is 2-3 grams per individual.

Benefits of specialty foods

Complete nutrient mixtures can be prepared independently, but this is a very time-consuming work. To produce a quality product for feeding rabbits, you need:

crushers, crushing components to the desired size;
stocks of various grain crops;
meat and bone and fish meal;
protein-vitamin-mineral complexes;
cake.

It is important to check the quality of incoming raw materials to minimize the risk of mortality. In the process of preparing mixtures for feeding rabbits, it is necessary to know exactly how much and what components are required, and at home or in a small enterprise it is difficult to achieve proportions. Because of this, there is a possibility of an excess of some nutrients and a deficiency of others, which can lead to improper formation of rabbits and young animals.

For the storage of compound feed, it is necessary to maintain normal ventilation in the room, a humidity level of not more than 75% and a temperature of up to 25 ° C. It is desirable to place bags on lattice racks or pallets. For small farms and medium-sized farms, buying ready-made feed can be more profitable than own production. The higher cost of the product is offset by guaranteed quality and time savings.

Benefits of compound feed produced by MEGAMIX

Our compound feeds for rabbits are presented in correctly formulated complete mixtures, which contain all the necessary nutrients:

universal	for lactating queens
Ideal for weaned rabbits and fattening animals.	Also suitable for queens and rabbits. on milk feeding.

Feed is produced in the form of granules and packaged in convenient packages: standard bags of 25 and 40 kg or big bags for large customers. The composition of the mixtures contains only valuable components that improve productivity, strengthen the immune system, positively affect the quality of the fur and the resulting meat, increase the growth and activity of rabbits.

Thanks to our own science-intensive production, we create recipes that best meet the needs of a particular breed of animal. The quality of incoming raw materials and the final product is carefully checked against more than 280 indicators in our analytical center, accredited to the international standard. Our requirements for commercially available compound feed for rabbits are stricter than GOSTs. All products undergo mandatory certification.

The company closely cooperates with VolGAU. The effectiveness and safety of all feeds are tested in a research center. Due to this, we are able to quickly navigate the needs of customers, clearly analyze each request and select the most profitable option for the customer. Our production facilities are designed to produce up to 180 tons of products annually.

We work not only in the central regions of Russia (Moscow and nearby regions), but also organize delivery to the cities of the Urals, Western Siberia, the North Caucasus, Crimea through an extensive network of dealerships.

Feed mixtures from MEGAMIX are effective for breeding rabbits at home, on medium-sized farms or large complexes. Using them, you will provide the animals with all the necessary trace elements, vitamins and mineral supplements, get a high average daily weight gain and reduce the risk of livestock infection.

Norms and diet

For agricultural breeds (meat and fur)

In summer, one rabbit needs 40-50 grams of concentrated and roughage plus a pound of green. During preparation for mating, the amount of food increases: green for 600 grams, concentrated and coarse - 70-80 grams. For a pregnant female, you will need 550–700 grams of greenery and 70–90 grams concentrated and coarse. A lactating female needs at least a kilogram of greens per day and up to 150 grams of roughage.

In winter, the basis of the diet is succulent food (150–200 grams) plus hay (120–150 grams). The amount of rough and concentrated feed remains the same. During preparation for mating 150-200 grams of juicy, 90-100 grams of concentrated and coarse and 150-200 grams of hay. A pregnant rabbit needs 200-250 grams of juicy, 100-130 grams of coarse and 150-200 grams of hay. A lactating female will need 300-350 grams of juicy, 140-160 concentrated and coarse and 200-250 grams of hay.

Fattening of meat breeds usually occurs in autumn and winter. When fattening, the amount of concentrated feed, bran and root crops (especially boiled potatoes) is gradually increased.

In ornamental breeds, digestion works worse than in agricultural ones. They can be given the following foods.

Hay is the main feed for ornamental breeds. It should be clean and dry and should be replaced as needed.
Grass - it can be added to the diet in summer. It is desirable to collect grass away from roads and other sources of pollution.
Granular food - 2 tablespoons per day.
Vegetables and fruits - can be given little by little, in small pieces and only washed and fresh. Radishes, parsley, carrots are good. It is better to exclude beets and cabbage in order to avoid stomach problems.

A complete balanced diet for rabbits, of course, should include the main vitamins:

A - has a positive effect on the functioning of the nervous and reproductive systems in wards, improves their general physical condition;
B1 - responsible for the metabolism of carbohydrates in the body, normalizes the activity of the cardiovascular system, indirectly improves the functioning of the gastrointestinal tract;
B2 - improves the condition of the skin and fur, optimizes the general physical condition of animals;
B5 - normalizes the digestive system;
B6 - is responsible for the absorption of proteins and simple proteins, as well as for the enzymatic balance in the body;
B12 - promotes the absorption of proteins, is extremely important for the health of newborn rabbits;
C - strengthens the immune system and normalizes the digestive tract;
D - necessary for the proper development of the eared musculoskeletal system, promotes better absorption of minerals;
E - responsible for the development of the muscular system of pets. Stabilizes the work of the heart and reproductive system;
K is an essential vitamin for rabbit breeding.

Self-feed preparation

The mash is a delicacy for rabbits. The most popular recipe includes:

boiled potatoes;
carrots;
oats;
germinated wheat;
table salt;
bran;
chopped hay.

The mixer is prepared using a blender or other chopper. To enrich it with biologically active substances, concentrated feed additives are added to it.

Hay is harvested using the same herbs as for green fodder. It is important to mow the plants before they bloom. The resulting raw material is dried on the street, and then allowed to lie down for some time in a well-ventilated place under a canopy (without direct sunlight).

Silage ingredients are crushed to fragments no larger than 1 cm in length. The resulting mass is placed in a sealed barrel and covered with a layer of sawdust 5 cm thick. The resulting substrate is compacted until juice appears and pressed down with a wooden circle, on which a load is placed on top. In the process of silage maturation, the barrels are stored in a moderately warm place, and then removed to a cool room.

Nuances of feeding rabbits depending on the season

The summer diet of animals should consist of cereals by 30-40%, and in winter and with intensive fattening - by 50-70%. In the summer, green food predominates in the diet of rabbits, but with the onset of cold weather, juicy food - silage and vegetables - become the main part of the menu. The owners who grow vegetables and melons on their plots give the animals various root crops, cabbage, zucchini and pumpkins. Such food contains many vitamins, but little fiber and protein; in lactating rabbits, it contributes to more intense lactation.

When planning the volume of the product harvested for the winter, farmers proceed from the calculation: 40 kg of hay for a rabbit; 10–15 kg per head of potential offspring. If there is not enough hay for all the livestock, then first of all it should be fed to females and lactating females, young animals. For adult males during the dormant period (if mating is not planned), the above product can be replaced with pea, lentil, oat or millet straw. You can’t feed it for a long time, because there are very few nutrients in the straw.

Branch fodder becomes a good help in winter. Timely harvested young twigs of trees contain quite a lot of vitamins. In addition, rabbits that have a constant opportunity to eat such food are much less likely to express a desire to gnaw on cages. Branches of only certain tree species are suitable for harvesting: willow, willow, maple, linden, acacia, mountain ash, poplar, aspen, ash, oak, alder. The content of nutrients in tree shoots is highest in the first month of summer.

Vitamin supplements are administered most often at the end of winter - in early spring, when there is a shortage of green and succulent fodder. To fill the need for vitamins A and D, animals are given special concentrated preparations or fish oil is added to food. At the same time, the amount of fish oil required by rabbits is calculated depending on their physiological state.

What should not be fed to rabbits?

It is better to refrain from adding birch branches to the diet, as they can lead to kidney disease. The same can be said about the branches of cherries, sweet cherries and plums. They contain hydrocyanic acid, which is quite dangerous for the body of animals. It is strictly forbidden to give branches of rosemary, buckthorn, bird cherry, apricot and elderberry to rabbits.

Even beneficial plants in excess can harm rabbits. From freshly cut grass, they have bloating of the intestines. Therefore, before feeding rabbits, it must be dried in direct sunlight. As a rule, an excess of cabbage leads to intestinal upset. It is also not recommended to give dirty vegetables to rabbits. This negatively affects the work of the digestive tract.