What to feed baby argentavis

Breeding - ARK: Survival Evolved Wiki

“	Baby is born. Baby is killed. Baby is dinner. (Babies are good source of Prime Meat)...	„
	~ Drake on Baby Creatures

A Raptor and his offspring

Breeding is a feature of ARK: Survival Evolved that allows players to breed improved creatures through Eggs with non-mammals and gestation with mammals. Eggs do not have an owner, so it's possible to steal eggs laid by other survivors' creatures.

Newborn creatures are simply claimed (imprinted on) and do not require the usual taming processes associated with wild creatures. Anyone can claim a newborn. This must be done promptly, along with feeding it, as babies can die quickly from hunger.

1 Breeding Mechanics
- 1.1 Preparing Mating
  - 1. 1.1 Mating Requirements
  - 1.1.2 Mating Range While Wandering
- 1.2 Mating
  - 1.2.1 Special Conditions of Mating
  - 1.2.2 Mating Wait Interval
- 1.3 Incubation
  - 1.3.1 Managing Temperature
    - 1.3.1.1 Glued Eggs
- 1.4 Gestating
- 1.5 Claiming
- 1.6 Caring For Babies
  - 1.6.1 Caring for Baby Carnivores
  - 1.6.2 Caring for Babies from Egg-only Tames
  - 1.6.3 Special Caring
    - 1.6.3.1 Reaper King
    - 1.6.3.2 Royal Griffin
    - 1.6.3.3 Beelzebufo
  - 1.6.4 Food Values
- 1.7 Maturation Phases & Food Consumption
  - 1.7.1 Notes
- 1.8 Imprinting
- 1.9 Sterile Creatures
2 Times for Breeding
3 Stats of the Offspring
- 3.1 Example
- 3.2 Amount of higher stats and chance of obtaining them when hatching
- 3.3 Finding the Best Parents
  - 3.3.1 Wild Stats Level-up
- 3. 4 Level of the Offspring
  - 3.4.1 Example
4 Notes/Trivia
5 External Video Tutorials
6 References
7 External links

Breeding Mechanics

Preparing Mating

The first step of breeding is having two opposite sex creatures of the same species for mating. Original, Tek, Aberrant, X, and R variants of creatures count as separate species, and as such, cannot be cross-bred. They must be bred with their own variant. Most creatures can be bred; those few that cannot are listed at the bottom of this article. See Sterile Creatures for more information.

Always be prepared for having more than one baby to be born upon incubation/gestation completion. There is a 10% chance of twins, and a 2% chance of triplets.^[1]

It has been confirmed that there is no creature in the game capable of affecting chances of mutations, twins and triplets.^[2]

Mating Requirements

For creatures to successfully mate, they must be:

of same species
of opposite sex (one male and one female)
within mating range of each other
wandering or set to mate (Enable Wandering or Enable Mating must be enabled on both creatures)
not following anything (Disable Following on both creatures)
unburdened (the creatures must not be carrying so much weight they are unable to move)
not mounted
not spayed/neutered
not having a mating cooldown (once mated females have a mating cooldown interval before they can mate again, the cooldown can also be triggered when transferring the creature between Arks)

Mating Range While Wandering

If using the Enable Wandering method to allow for mating, then steps need to be taken to maintain the mating range, which varies between species and is loosely based on the size of the adult creature. If the mating pair wander outside the mating range, then mating is stopped and mating progress is reset.

Building a pen of a suitably small size to keep the wandering creatures within mating range of each other is one common approach.

You can also use the "Whistle Stop (All)" command (U on PC). This halts all creatures within the area to stop moving, even ones that are enabled to wander. It's best to use the whistle every time the creature starts to move again, or to prevent the creatures from ever moving, whistle constantly. While this method doesn't need a pen, it does need you or a tribe member to stay there and constantly whistle. This may be more helpful if one survivor is constantly whistling not to move, and another survivor enables the creatures nearby to wander. In this way, you can achieve mass breeding in an area without ever building a pen, or moving creatures.

To initiate breeding of a pair by yourself, whistle both creatures to follow you, then enable wandering. Then, disable following on both. This prevents them from walking around in the meantime.

It is possible to use the Dino Leash , to restrict the range for mating. Then no mating pen is needed.

If you do not want to build a pen, whistle or use a leash; then you can simply use enable mating instead, this will make the creatures stand still and then they will start to mate.

Mating

When the above conditions are all met, a small red heart icon appears over the heads of the mating creatures, and a mating bar appears on the female's HUD (look at the female to reveal the HUD). The HUD also indicates which creature they are mating with. Ensure the mating animals remain close together, as otherwise the mating stops. Due to server lag and game mechanics, the mating bar does not continuously update in real time. Additionally, mating multiple females to a single male at the same time can make this worse. Patience is advised as the bar moves in leaps and bounds.

Once the mating bar is completed, non-mammalian females drop a single fertilized egg , and mammalian females start gestating.

If there are too many tamed creatures in the server or in the tribe, the pair will refuse to mate until there is a free spot.

Special Conditions of Mating

Some of the creatures will only mate when certain conditions are given.

Royal Griffin - will only mate with the other gender with similar surname.
Ferox - will only mate when the female is at least 95%+ addiction as a small creature.
Magmasaur - will only mate when the female is submerged in the lava surface in Volcano Region on any map.
Megachelon - will only mate at deep depths in the ocean.
Beelzebufo - will only mate in water.
Diplocaulus - will only mate in water.

Mating Wait Interval

Females cannot mate again until a mating wait interval has passed (Cryofreezing them will still continue the mating interval cooldown). This interval is indicated on their HUD.

The mating interval starts after the creature has laid the egg or gestation has completed. The mating interval is also started for female creatures that are transferred between servers. Males can mate at any time.

Incubation

Main article: Incubation

The fertilized egg itself only begins Incubation when dropped onto the floor/ground or placed correctly in an Egg Incubator (Genesis: Part 2). When incubating, a Fertilized Egg must be kept at a certain temperature range depending on the species (this also factors in insulation). If outside of this temperature range, incubation won't make progress, and it loses "Fertilized Egg Health" over time and is destroyed if this reaches zero. This is all indicated on the HUD when looking at a Fertilized Egg, along with its parents.

You can always "pause" the incubation by picking up the egg and putting it in a Refrigerator, Preserving Bin or other Inventory.

The following eggs are an exception due to the nature of how it is obtained (no health loss in inadequate temperature area):

Crystal Wyvern Egg
Deinonychus Egg
Magmasaur Egg
Rock Drake Egg
Wyvern Egg

If there are too many tamed creatures in the server or in the tribe, the egg will continue to incubate with no timer information, but letting it hatch will not yield a baby.

Managing Temperature

The best method to ensure eggs are at an appropriate temperature for incubation is through insulation. Use one or more Air Conditioner, Dimetrodon, Kairuku or Otter. Six Air Conditioner should work for all eggs but eight is ideal for when there is a heat/cold storm. You might need up to 14 or more Air Conditioners for larger eggs such as the Giganotosaurus, or the Wyvern in Scorched Earth or Ragnarok. The Rock Drake in Aberration requires at least 15 Air Conditioners due to its very cold incubation requirement. Whereas the Deinonychus from Valguero needs a rough 23 Air Conditioners in the snow because of its extreme heat required.

With the release of Genesis: Part 2, the introduction of the Egg Incubator (Genesis: Part 2) allows for yet another way to incubate eggs.

Another way is to tame a handful of Dimetrodon. These seemingly useless finned creatures are actually one of the best sources of insulation in the entire game. The higher their melee damage, the higher their insulation bonus is; at ~1000 melee damage, it can even raise Wyvern eggs. The insulation effect stacks with other Dimetrodons, so if one isn't enough to do the job, try two, or three, or more. Far cheaper to maintain than the expensive air conditioners, these guys are mobile and only need meat, compared to the stationary air conditioner that also needs electricity to run. However, everything has its drawbacks: the Dimetrodon is slow and hard to transport on foot; they are hard to tame due to where they spawn and their fast torpor drop. However, it is worth the risk, especially on Aberration, where Rock Drake Egg would normally require many air conditioners.

At the beginning of the game, when the Air Conditioner or Dimetrodon are not yet available, use a heat source to regulate the egg's temperature. Standing Torch, Torch, Campfire, Industrial Cooker, and stone fireplace work well. However, they all have the downside of providing negative Heat Tolerance, making careful management necessary, or going to colder areas to make the gap between cold resistance and heat resistance bigger. You may need four or more torches, depending on the biome and the egg.

Since temperature gradients can be very extreme between regions, easily reaching 20 °C or more, you can try and find a nearby biome where the temperature is closer to the eggs' ideal point; this is usually in the biome that spawned the creature. Early in the game, it is easier to find a biome that is too cold (e.g. near the coast) and heat the egg with torches, rather than trying to cool down a hot biome.

As Fertilized Eggs don't lose Egg Health in an inventory, and spoil incredibly slowly, you can keep them in your Inventory or in a preserving bin/refrigerator until able to achieve the appropriate temperature needed for Incubating. This can be very useful if you settled in a region with extreme temperatures as it's especially difficult to cool an egg in a hot biome without an air conditioner when it gets too hot.

Glued Eggs

While most creature's egg can be moved to its suitable location if the required temperature for incubation is not suited at its current location, some of the eggs cannot be moved once laid due to its glued nature. As such, females of the following eggs must lay their eggs at locations that allows incubation without causing complications:

Araneo Egg
Arthropluera Egg
Bloodstalker Egg
Mantis Egg
Moth Egg
Pulmonoscorpius Egg

Gestating

During gestation, females can consume up to twice the amount of food they would normally. Ensure the expectant mother has access to plenty of food during gestation to avoid losing the baby.

The baby will need immediate attention to survive, so be sure to be there at the time the gestation ends.

Trying to put a gestating mother into a cryopod will terminate the pregnancy.

Claiming

Babies are hatched/born unclaimed, so a survivor must "claim" them immediately after birth by getting close to them, looking right at them, and pressing the "use" key (E, , ) to imprint them, otherwise they can be claimed by other survivors. The only exception is the Reaper King, which can only be claimed by the survivor who "gave birth" to it; no other survivor including the birthgiver's tribe mates can claim it.

Warning: Pets set on aggressive attack unclaimed creatures as soon as they are hatched/born. Whistle "Passive" or claim babies quickly to avoid this. Also Tek Shields will 'shunt' unclaimed babies out of their radius.

As of 264.5, Auto Turrets and Plant Species X set to "Players and Tamed Creatures" will NOT attack unclaimed creatures after they are hatched/born. You can safely place turrets inside a hatching pen without fearing for babies' lives.

If babies are not very promptly claimed and then fed they can quickly die from hunger.

You can control the hatch timing of fertilized eggs using a Preserving Bin or Refrigerator. This is not an option for live birth creatures, so make sure to time the mating and gestation appropriately.

Caring For Babies

Young animals take significant time and intensive care, especially during the "Baby" stage; if you're busy, don't breed your creatures right away. Alternately, you can just put the newborn baby into a cryopod for later. Most creatures will require the better part of a weekend to raise.

New babies follow the nearest survivor if one is within a reasonable range, so survivors will probably want to disable these settings. New babies have extremely low health, carrying capacity and food, so survivors need to carefully feed and take care of them in their first moments of life, or they'll soon die. The creature must be fed by adding food to their inventory. Once they reach Juvenile phase of their maturation (10.1%) they can eat from a Feeding Trough or Tek Trough to ensure the creature has a sufficient food supply. The maturation progress and phase is shown when looking at the creature.

Babies dynamically gain more HP, food capacity, and carrying capacity as they mature over time. They need lots of food because the babies eat very quickly, so stock up beforehand while the mother is pregnant/the egg is incubating.

Babies are not mountable and flee from fights. Mounts that can carry creatures (e. g. the Argentavis) can carry babies, which allows you to quickly reposition the little ones if needed.

The Procoptodon and the Maewing are two creatures that can help with raising babies.

It takes a long time for babies to mature; breeding should only be attempted if you or your tribe have the time. As the baby grows, you will be able to leave the baby alone for longer and longer periods of time. One good use of a survivor's time at this stage might be crafting kibble for imprinting. If you will be imprinting, the baby might request any of 6 different kibbles (on PC and Console) or 15 different kibbles (on Mobile), so make sure you have them on hand.

Caring for Baby Carnivores

Baby carnivores are especially difficult to raise as it takes a minimum of 48 real hours to mature them, and a stack of meat spoils every 26.6 real hours (40 x 40 mins) in the feeding trough. Therefore their feeding trough must be topped up every 26 hours to continue their development. Failure to do so could result in starvation to death. By using Fish Meat, this time is doubled to 53.3 hours (40 x 80 mins), although Raw Fish Meat is only half as nutritious as Raw Meat, so babies will need twice as much meat. Creatures* will eat food with the lowest food value first (see food table below), thus fish meat before raw meat, so mixing the two will result in the longer keeping fish meat being eaten first. After progression to Juvenile phase, the creatures can eat from a trough, but will starve if not fed.

This is less of an issue for herbivores, because a stack of 100 berries lasts 66 real hours (2.7 days) before spoiling, a much more manageable interval. Remember not to try and feed the babies with stim or narcoberries because they won't eat them.

*Few creatures, like Baryonyx and Pelagornis will eat Raw Fish Meat before Cooked Fish Meat and they only eat fish meat. Similarly, their offspring will only eat raw fish meat until reaching adulthood.

The use of a powered Tek Trough that can store more items and acts like a refrigerator extending the spoil time is recommended.

Caring for Babies from Egg-only Tames

This section is about content exclusive to the DLC: Scorched Earth, Aberration, Genesis: Part 1, Crystal Isles

Babies hatched from Egg-only taming (with the exception of Deinonychus) only take a specific food until they fully mature. While their food drops down slower than other babies, feeding them with their usual food will not replenish their food.

Wyvern = Only takes in Wyvern Milk which can be obtained by either knocking out an adult wild female Wyvern, or killing Alpha Fire Wyvern.
Rock Drake = Only takes in Nameless Venom which can sometimes be gained by killing Nameless.
Magmasaur = Only takes in Sulfur or Ambergris which can sometimes be harvested from the green-cracked rock formations in Lunar Biome at Genesis Simulation or in Ringed Asteroid at - Space - in Genesis Ship.
Crystal Wyvern = Only takes in Primal Crystal which can be obtained by gathering (with "Use") from a knocked out adult wild Crystal Wyvern.

Special Caring

Some babies require special caring. Effects can be disastrous if not cared for properly.

Reaper King

This section is about content exclusive to the DLC: Aberration

For details on taking care of baby Reaper King or how to obtain them, check its own article. Reaper King babies will attack any dino and any survivor around if it is able to reach towards them and will be constantly on wander (with no options to stop wandering or follow target). It will not attack the birth giver with Reaper Pheromone Gland effect. Once it reaches Juvenile however, it will stop randomly attacking and can be ordered like every other baby.

Whenever the baby attacks an entity, a portion of its food will be lost.

Royal Griffin

This section is about a feature exclusively available on Mobile

Baby Griffins prefer to be secure to feel safe. While it feels insecure, it will refuse to eat food from inventory or trough. For it to feel secure, it must be close to its mother based on the current ancestor, or a female griffin with the same surname as the baby.

Beelzebufo

Until adulthood maturity, Beelzebufo babies must always be kept inside water. Any attempt to pull it out even as Adolescent will easily kill it.

Food Values

Carnivores will only eat meat, while herbivores will only eat berries. During the baby phase, you have to hand feed the baby until it reaches the juvenile phase. This can take quite a long time so be prepared and have time to sit around feeding a baby.

Food	Food-Value
Preferred Kibble	80 (53.33*)
Kibble made from Prime Meat Jerky (excluding Carbonemys kibble)	90
Other Kibble	60
Raw Prime Meat / Raw Meat / Raw Mutton	50**
Spoiled Meat	50***
Cooked Prime Meat / Prime Meat Jerky	50
Crops	40
Mejoberries	30
Cooked Meat / Cooked Meat Jerky	25
Raw Prime Fish Meat / Cooked Prime Fish Meat / Raw Fish Meat	25
Other Berries	20
Cooked Fish Meat	12

* Brontos only gain 53. 33 food points from their preferred Kibble (Carbonemys Egg)
** some creatures have different values for raw meat, e.g. the Bloodstalker gains only 10 for each raw meat.
*** only for Scorpions, Vultures and Mantis.

Maturation Phases & Food Consumption

Maturation Progress	Phase
0%-10%	Baby
10%-50%	Juvenile
50%-100%	Adolescent

Food consumption by babies is very large and varies by the maturation progress dynamically by the following formula:

FoodPerSec = R * (1 - maturationRatio) , with R = basic food drain rate

The basic food drain rate varies per creature. For example, this value for a Rex baby is around R=1.16, while the Bloodstalker has a base food drain rate of R=0.785 (further measurements needed for other creatures).

The Rock Drake has a basic food drain of R = 0.1, other special creatures like Wyvern and Magmasaur may have an equivalent food consumption (not tested yet).

Note: This formula is an estimation and may not give exact numbers (the error is around 5%). `maturationRatio` is the maturation percentage divided by 100.

Some Perspective: For only one baby Rex (remember you could have twins or triplets) on an unmodified server, it will take roughly 96 stacks of raw meat (stack size 40) to reach adult phase, so be sure to have plenty on hand before the baby is born!

Use a calculator to determine the needed food and time, e.g.^[3]

Notes

Each creature seems to have a different food consumption rate that appears to change with each stage of the maturation progress (at least for wolves and Dodos).

Imprinting

Main article: Imprinting

Imprinting is a way to improve the stat-values of a bred creature. It requires one of three interactions (giving specific kibble, cuddling or walking) every 8* hours. Only a single player can imprint a newborn baby (whoever claims it first). There is no penalty for not imprinting, but no gain either. Any imprinting done is permanent. Accumulated imprinting values will not be lost if you miss an imprint.

If this player manages to care for the baby during the entire maturation, the creature's base stats before modifications will be increased by 20% and, when ridden by the imprinter, it will also gain 30% increased damage and damage resistance.

* The time between imprint and the amount of imprint gained per imprint can change if an event is happening. Keep an eye out on the HUD for when the next imprint is required.

Sterile Creatures

All tameable creatures are breedable except for:

Astrocetus
Basilisk
Coelacanth
Desert Titan
DodoRex
Dung Beetle
Forest Titan
Giant Bee
Giant Queen Bee
Ice Titan
Karkinos
Lamprey
Leech
Liopleurodon
Mega Mek
Mek
Noctis
Noglin
Phoenix
Piranha
Rare X-Sabertooth Salmon
Reaper
Rock Elemental
Sabertooth Salmon
Styracosaurus
Titanoboa
Titanosaur
Trilobite
Zombie Wyvern
Zomdodo

Despite in-game showing the Reaper King as breedable, it is impossible due to how they are "tamed", with the added fact they are shown as genderless.

In ARK: Survival Evolved Mobile, Royal Griffin has gender and can be bred. However, they will only mate with members of the same house (they must have the same 2-3 last letters in their names).

Times for Breeding

Template:Table of Breeding Template:Table of Mammal Breeding

Stats of the Offspring

In-Depth look at Breeding Super Dinos

The spawn of two dinosaurs will inherit the "natural" stat levels of its parents. Natural stat levels are the levels in each stat after it has been tamed but before it gains any stats through leveling-up by a player. There is a 55% chance of inheriting the stronger stat of each parent. This means you have a certain percent chance of obtaining a 100% perfect (meaning with only the higher stats of both parents) creature from both parents from each mating.

The stat-values (not the stat-levels) of the offspring are calculated like for a creature that was just tamed with a 100% taming effectiveness with the taming effectiveness bonuses applied. This means that an offspring can have higher values than its parents in stats that get a bonus from taming effectiveness (for most creatures this is Melee Damage and sometimes Food). See also Creature stats calculation for how the values are calculated from the stats.

Example

To understand this better, here is an example. Let's only look at the melee damage of a pair of Raptors. Assume they were just tamed with a taming effectiveness of 70% and both already have 4 levels in melee damage. The value you can see as melee damage is according to the formula on Creature stats calculation, the newly added extra modifier (balancing update), and the stats of the raptors

Value = (BaseStat × ( 1 + LevelWild × IncreaseWild) + TamingBonusAdd × TamingBonusAddModifier) × (1 + TamingEffectiveness × TamingBonusMult × TamingBonusMultModifier) Value = (100% × ( 1 + 4 × 5%) + 50% × 15%) × (1 + 70% × 40% × 45%) Value = 127.5% × 112.6% Value = 143.6%

The offspring inherits the values of its parents. They don't inherit the plain value, but the levels the parents spend in the stats before being leveled up by a player. So the offspring inherits 4 levels for its melee damage (as both parents have 4 levels in this case). To get the value of the melee damage of the offspring, we calculate it like before, but this time we use a taming effectiveness of 100% (this is the way the game gives you another bonus if you breed creatures).

Value = (BaseStat × ( 1 + LevelWild × IncreaseWild) + TamingBonusAdd × TamingBonusAddModifier) × (1 + TamingEffectiveness × TamingBonusMult × TamingBonusMultModifier) Value = (100% × ( 1 + 4 × 5%) + 50% × 15%) × (1 + 100% × 40% × 45%) Value = 127.5% × 118% Value = 150.5%

Like the parents, the offspring has 4 levels in melee damage, but with the higher taming-effectiveness-bonus its value is 150.5% instead of 143.6%. The bonus is not much, but is clearly noticeable.

Amount of higher stats and chance of obtaining them when hatching

Number of desired stats	Probability [%]
6	2. 77%
5	13.59%
4	27.80%
3	30.32%
2	18.61%
1	6.09%
0	0.83%

Finding the Best Parents

To maximize the stats of the offspring, specialized parents with a good value in few stats are needed. The more specialized a creature is in one stat, the higher it can be. To get a really good breed you need 6 creatures, each with a high upleveled (only the wild-leveling counts here) different stat. After at least 3 generations a creature with the best of the stats can be bred.

Wild Stats Level-up

Type in values of a wild creature to see on which stats it's emphasized. Green values on a high-level creature are very good for breeding. If you have already tamed your creature you can try to recover the breeding stats with an external tool.^[4]

Breeding

The stat-calculator does not work in the mobile-view, see here for alternatives: Apps

Note that after the creature is tamed it gets bonuses on some stats depending on the taming effectiveness. This makes it hard to retrieve the levels on a tamed creature, so this tool is only for wild ones, but gives a first impression, how well the stats are distributed.

Level of the Offspring

The resulting level of the baby is the sum of wild level-points (i.e. level of the creature directly after taming) spent in the inherited stats by its parents. Assume for example, that one (highly unusual) parent has only leveled up in Health 40 levels and nothing else, while the other parent leveled up only in weight 30 levels. If the baby happens to inherit these higher stats, it inherits 70 levelups giving it level 71 with its starting level. Other possibilities are a level 41 Baby with only health leveled up, a level 31 baby with only weight leveled up or a baby with level 1 and nothing leveled up.

The (practically impossible to reach) maximum of levels a baby can get would be 223 levelups (149 natural + 74 by taming bonus (TE of nearly 100%)) in each stat, with 7 stats summing up to level 1562 (223 levelups in 7 stats plus the startinglevel: 223 x 7 + 1 = 1562). 223)].

Note that the levels a wild animal wastes in the movement stat is remembered and passed on during breeding. Thus two siblings with seemingly identical stats might have different levels if one of them inherited a higher movement stat than the other. This has one practical advantage: a higher torpor level.

Note that the cap level of creature on official are 450, after this level your creature will be deleted by server restart, transferring or if you cryo pod it.

Example

Here's an example of two parents and possible children they can get. Child1 inherited random stats, ChildMax only got the maximum values and ChildMin only got the lower values. You can see that the level of the offspring can be lower, in between or higher as the levels of the parents. The higher levelup is displayed in bold.

Displayed are only the wild levels (the ones that can be inherited). Levelups by the player have no influence on the stats of the offspring.

In this example the levels of Stamina are the same for both parents, so you cannot tell which one the offspring inherited.

Mother

Child1

ChildMax

ChildMin

Father

Level 154

Stat	Lvl
HP	24
St	23
Ox	26
Fo	18
We	19
Dm	22
Sp	21

Level 150

Stat	Lvl
HP	18
St	23
Ox	26
Fo	22
We	19
Dm	22
Sp	19

Level 166

Stat	Lvl
HP	24
St	23
Ox	26
Fo	22
We	27
Dm	22
Sp	21

Level 130

Stat	Lvl
HP	18
St	23
Ox	15
Fo	18
We	19
Dm	17
Sp	19

Level 142

Stat	Lvl
HP	18
St	23
Ox	15
Fo	22
We	27
Dm	17
Sp	19

To get to the creature's level, you add up the levels of the stats and add one, as all creatures start at level one.

Notes/Trivia

Contrary to popular myths, the Oviraptors and Unicorns do not increase chances for twins, triplets nor mutations.
The Titanoboa, Basilisk, Coelacanth, Piranha, Sabertooth Salmon, Karkinos, Dung Beetle, Astrocetus, Lamprey and Trilobite cannot be bred when domesticated.
- However, in the real world all reptiles, fish, crustaceans, snails, whales, and Trilobites and Dung Beetles are able to breed.

External Video Tutorials

Quick tutorial on hatching eggs

Video about breeding and mutations

References

↑ Patch notes, v220
↑ ComplexMinded's tweet, dated Mar 4, 2020
↑ Crumplecorn's Breeding Calculator
↑ ARK Smart Breeding

External links

Ark Breeding Calculator (Web Application)

ARK: Argentavis - How to Tame, Feed and Breed!

Deutsch English

The Argentavis in ARK: Survival Evolved is a giant eagle whose saddle features a mobile workbench. Wild, however, he is aggressive and persistent, he has decided on a prey. Because of its size, the Argentavis is the largest bird on the island.

Find out everything you need to know about the giant eagle in our guide to Argentavis. But also how to catch him, tame him, feed him and breed offspring too.

This is the Argentavis in ARK: Survival Evolved

Appearance: Ranging in size from approximately 15 (4.57 m) to 20 feet (approx. 6 m), the Argentavis is the island’s largest bird. It has a sharp beak typical of a bird of prey, as well as sharp claws on its feet. Equipped with this, he can already injure the prey while grabbing it and ultimately simply dismember it.

Wild: The Argentavis can be found both in the air and on the ground, most often seen fighting its prey on the ground while flying in the air. He’ll only attack you if you’re underneath him, in good old raptor fashion. If you got too close to him, provoked him, or he chose you as his prey, he will pursue you over a long distance, which makes it not easy to escape from him.

Since it shares its habitat with numerous predators, including larger ones, it is satisfied with carrion as food or leaves part of its prey behind.

Domesticated: Tamed, with the Argentavis Saddle you always have a mobile workbench with you, in which stone, crystal and metal only weigh half of what they weigh in your inventory. This makes it perfect for transport when you farm these materials. But the Argentavis also cuts a fine figure as a normal mount.

How to tame the Argentavis in ARK

How to hunt the Argentavis: You can tame the Argentavis with or without a trap, depending on how easy or how difficult you want to make it.

Without a trap: Take your crossbow or bow and equip them with tranquilizer darts. Now shoot the Argentavis, preferably when it just landed on the ground. After you hit him, he will attack you, and you can keep shooting him until he is knocked out. However, you will take damage and your mount, if you have one with you, will intervene, which can quickly lead to the Argentavis being finished off.

To prevent this, you can “park” your mount a little further away. Also, don’t run near it during the Argentavis attack.

With trap: Of course, it is easier, but also more complex with a trap. You build the trap, as with the Snow Owl, by placing two stone gates (big enough for the Argentavis) opposite each other with enough distance and then connecting them with stone fence foundations. On top of the foundations, you then place stone door frames as tall as the stone gate is. Finally, all you have to do is cover everything with the stone ceiling.

Leave one gate open and close the other. Provoke the Argentavis by hitting him when he follows you or wants to attack you, run through the open gate into the trap and close the open gate as soon as he is inside.

You can now easily shoot him unconscious through the stone door frames.

How to tame him: Once he’s unconscious, put meat or kibble in his inventory and feed him that. To keep the Argentavis down and the stun value up, it’s best to use the narcotic or Narcoberries.

How to make the Argentavis saddle

To craft the Argentavis Saddle, you need to be level 62 and 21 Engram Points to unlock the recipe. You now need the following resources to craft:

350x Hide
185x Fiber
150x Chitin, Keratin, or Shell fragment

How to feed an Argentavis in ARK

Once you have tamed your Argentavis, it is important to know what it likes to eat. Argentavis are carnivores, which of course makes the choice of food easier.

Superior Kibble:
- Ingredients: 1x Large Egg,1x Prime Meat Jerky, 5x Fiber, 2x Citronal, 2x Rare Mushroom, 1x Sap, 1x Water
- Ingredients for Prime Meat Jerky: 1x Cooked Prime Meat, 1x Oil, 3x Sparkpowder
Kibble (Stegosaurus Egg)
- Ingredients: 1x Stegosaurus Egg, 1x Citronal, 1x Cooked Meat Jerky, 2x Mejoberries, 3x Fiber, 1x Water
- Ingredients for Cooked Meat Jerky: 1x Cooked Meat, 1x Oil, 3x Sparkpowder

Raw Mutton:
- Received by gutting Ovis.
- Cooking turns it into the Cooked Lamb Chop
Raw Prime Meat:
- Gained when gutting larger creatures
- Cooking turns it into Cooked Prime Meat
Raw Prime Fish Meat:
- Obtained from Alpha Mosasaurus, Dunkleosteus, Electrophorus, Leedsichtys, Megalodon, and Sabertooth Salmon
- Cooking turns it into the Cooked Prime Fish Meat
Raw Meat:
- Earned by gutting a creature
- Cooking turns it into Cooked Meat
Raw Fish Meat:
- Received from gutting fish
- Cooking turns it into Cooked Fish Meat

How to breed the Argentavis in ARK

This is how you prepare for breeding: If you have a male and female specimen, at best you build an enclosure that is large enough. Put both dinos in the pen and set them to “wander” via the command menu. Alternatively, you can also switch directly to “Pair”, but then there must always be a player nearby, otherwise the pairing will stop due to the rendering.

The breeding interval for an Argentavis is 18 to 48 hours.

How to Hatch Eggs: If you have obtained a fertilized Argentavis Egg from a successful mating, hatching begins. For this, the ambient temperature of the egg should be between 12 °C and 13.5 °C and in the egg incubator at 13 °C. According to standard settings, the little Argentavis baby hatches after about 3 hours. After that, it takes about 5.5 hours of your attention, during which you keep putting food in its inventory.

Once it gains juvenile status, it can feed on its own. The entire maturing time takes about 2 days and 6.5 hours.

Beginner tips on breeding in ARK can be found here:

Looking for more helpful guides on ARK: Survival Evolved? Then take a look at our ARK guide overview, where you will find more of our dinosaur, crafting, resource, and technology guides. You can also chat with us and other players on our Discord server. We’re looking forward to see you!

Guide ARK: Survival Evolved: How to tame Pter\Tapejara\Argentavis(Eagle)\Quetz » SIMHOST

There are not too many flying creatures in ARK: Survival Evolved , but most of them are incredibly useful and can make life easier for any survivor in the game. But taming some is not easy. And we will tell you how to tame some of the flyers.

Taming the Pteranodon

The Pteranodon, or pter for short, will be the very first tamed flying creature for almost any player. Which is not surprising, because the pter has a number of advantages - high speed, the ability to kill even such dinos as rex or spinosaurus, the ability to drag small creatures, including people. In addition, the food for taming it is made from dodo eggs, and the saddle is crafted at level 35, which means that the Pteranodon is the most affordable way to take off, and then you can safely travel around the island, pick up supplies, calmly hunt and get rare resources, such as metal or crystals.

I won't describe how to cook food in ARK in the guide. It is better to read the data from the wiki at this link. Everything is clearly written there.

Now let's talk about how to tame the Pteranodon. You can even do it alone. You need to craft bolas, at least 10 pieces. Approach the pter, throw a bola at him, and then shoot from a bow or crossbow at his head. The principle of action is this - bolas, 2-3 shots with tranquilizing arrows, then another bolas - and so on until the pter loses consciousness. Then you give him food, as well as drugs - narcoberry or drug. You can tame with normal meat, but if you play on official servers or without rates, then it will take a VERY long time, depending on the level of the pter.

Taming Tapejara

A very unique flier. Firstly, you can craft a saddle for two riders on it. Secondly, it can sit on a vertical surface, so that even a pilot can use a weapon. Tapejara is also a fairly fast creature. If you don't have the ability to raise a wyvern, the Tapejara is probably the best creature for you as a fast flier. True, this creature also has disadvantages. The Tapejara combat creature is bad, and it also suffers from low stamina.

But how can you tame this creature? When you get too close to him, he takes off and flies at high speed away from his detractor. Sure, you might get lucky and be able to hit him with a bola, but that's incredibly hard to do from a distance. If you want to tame it together, you can pick up a friend with an Argentavis or Pter and start chasing him in the air. But this is also a rather difficult option - it is quite difficult to aim at the tapejara.

Therefore, the easiest way is to craft camouflage armor. The polymers for its creation are either mined from kairuku (penguin) or created on a machine. Perhaps even 2-3 things will be enough to get close to the tapejara and throw a bolas into it (take at least 10 pieces with you). And then alternate 2-3 shots from a crossbow or bow with throwing a new bola. If you shoot him in the head, he will be stunned faster, but be careful - there is a chance to kill him in this way. In general, he stuns quickly and does not need many shots.

When it falls, it is advisable to place spikes or walls around it. If you have food from Allosaurus eggs, then taming will take a little time. If not, then I advise you to get first-class meat for him and feed him.

Taming Argentavis

Argentavis is not as fast as a Pter or Tapejara, but it has a number of other great advantages - a large supply of health, which allows you to hunt with it, a good carry weight value, and also a fairly high level of stamina, which makes an eagle an excellent way to conduct aerial hunting. The eagle can carry larger creatures as well as peck them in its claws, making it an ideal killer of smaller creatures. The eagle is also the best creature for hunting wyvern eggs, as long as it has at least 180% speed and 2500 health.

Taming this wonderful flyer is not too difficult. The easiest, but time-consuming way is to build a wooden or stone trap for him, lure him there and shoot him. The eagle is not a coward, like a tapejara or pter, he will attack his offender, and, accordingly, pursue. If you do not want to build a trap, then you can run from it yourself if you have good speed, at least 120%, or on some fast creature, like a raptor, wolf or sabertooth.

However, the disadvantage of this method is that the eagle can fly up when its stun is at a high level. Once you have a friend and a flying creature, things become a piece of cake. One picks up the other, and he begins to shoot the eagle. The eagle feeds on stego eggs. It also tames well with premium meat. By the way, wild eagles are an ideal way to get first-class meat. Low-level Argentavis are quite frail, and it's not a problem to kill them with the same pter.

Taming Quetzalcoatl

Just an incredibly useful flyer with huge advantages - able to drag the most creatures, carry a huge weight, you can craft a platform on it and build a mini-base there, and its eggs are used to feed such an epic creature as giganotosaurus.

Taming this air giant is a very difficult task. It's best when you have a friend and argentavis. Then one simply pursues the Quetz, the other from the paws of the eagle shoots at him. However, if you're hunting a high-level one, it's better to use a rifle and tranquilizer darts. You can use a crossbow, but prepare a spare, as well as a bunch of arrows and patience.

If you are playing alone, there is a way to tame a small level 5-20 quetzal. You need a scorpion with at least 300% attack, but this is such an extreme minimum. Better than 400%, for more comfort - 500%. Put the scorpion on automatic attack (aggression), and fly up to the quetzal so that the scorpion would attack him. Be prepared that at first you will not be able to tame him with a scorpion and you will have to adapt. On YouTube, I found this video, not bad for learning:

When the quetzal falls, immediately enclose it with spikes or walls. It is best to tame with food from Rex eggs. You can also use first-class meat, although this is a very lengthy process. It is better not to tame ordinary meat, as it will just take a HUGE amount of time. Your future quetz, most likely, will be devoured by someone during this time. And besides, the stun from the quetzal is removed at a high speed, and either you do not have enough drugs, or you are tormented to get berries.

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Somehow they somehow passed me by. I didn't know about them.

Argentavis was considered the largest flying bird known to science in the entire history of the Earth. In 2014, a new species of Pelagornis with similar dimensions, Pelagornis sandersi, was described. Before Argentavis, false-toothed seabirds from the Pelagornithidae family were considered the largest flying birds, reaching a wingspan of 7 m.

Argentavis lived 5-8 million years ago in what is now Argentina. It weighed about 70 kg, had a size of 1.26 m in height, its wingspan reached 6.9 m (which is twice the wingspan of the largest modern birds - albatrosses). The skull of Argentavis was 45 cm long, and the humerus was more than half a meter long. The duration of molting is estimated at 2.5 months. Argentavis was anatomically close to the ancient storks. According to the structure of the skull of teratornitids, it is concluded that they were not scavengers, but fed on live prey, although not very large, which they swallowed whole. It is assumed that they found a large group of rodents, fell on them from above, stunning them with their body, and swallowed them - this way of hunting was the cause of gigantism.

The size and structural features of the wings indicate that the bird used mainly gliding flight, possibly using ascending currents of warm air. Experts estimate the flight speed to be at least 40 km/h, presumably about 67 km/h