Food for baby iguana

What Do Baby Iguanas Eat?

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Before you acquire an iguana, it’s important to remember that they are not as popular as other reptiles. Iguanas are reptiles, and properly caring for them takes time, patience, and money. Finding the proper food or veterinary treatment may be difficult in some areas.

Baby iguanas, on the other hand, seldom live longer than a year in captivity. They should be kept under constant watch and fed healthy food. As a result, if you decide to acquire a baby iguana, you must be very cautious. Stay with us at FeedingNature and learn all there is to know about feeding a baby iguana as well as how to do it effectively.

What Do Baby Iguanas Eat?

The average lifespan of a domestic green iguana is 15 to 20 years, although certain individuals can survive for up to 30 years. Green iguanas are herbivores, which means they consume plants. In the wild, iguanas eat flowers, leaves, and certain types of fruits.

A well-balanced diet of greens, vegetables, fruits, and other items will help guarantee that you have a happy and healthy iguana. Make sure your pet has a variety of different meals to eat. This is an excellent way for your pet to try new and interesting foods while also ensuring that the diet is well-balanced. The majority of the nutrients needed can be found in pet shops and supermarkets.

Vegetables & Fruit Vegetables & Fruits

Most of your pet’s food should be fresh greens and vegetables. To make eating the food easier, it should be chopped up. Mustard, collard, dandelion greens, kale, turnip greens, and romaine lettuce are some of the greens you could offer your pet. Shredded carrots, green beans, peas, and other legumes, squash, and bell peppers are all good options of vegetables you can feed them.

When fresh food is not available, frozen vegetables can be used instead. An excellent emergency meal is a mix of french-cut green beans, carrots, peas, corn, and lima beans. Before feeding your iguana frozen veggies, be sure they’ve been thoroughly defrosted. Thawing frozen food in a hot water bath is an easy method to do so.

Fruits can be given to an iguana as a pleasant treat. Strawberries, bananas, blueberries, cantaloupe, and apples are some of the fruits that your pet may enjoy. Chopping fruit for consumption is the same as with other foods; it should be chopped.

Iguana Food An Iguana About To Chow Down on Food

Commercial iguana food is available, which may be added to the diet of your pet. Iguana food is usually given in pellet form and can be mixed with other meals. Dry iguana pellets are more difficult to eat if they are not moistened before being fed. Your iguana should be fed only with food intended for reptiles. The primary diet of your lizard should not include iguana food.

Bread & Grains Bread & Grains

Grains and bread may be given to your pet on rare occasions. Pasta, rice, and whole-grain bread are all wonderful treats for your iguana. Make sure the meal is chopped into small pieces to make it more appealing to chew.

Insects Insects

Mealworms and crickets are frequently included in the diets of pet baby iguanas. Green iguanas, on the other hand, are herbivores and aren’t meant to eat insects.

Adult iguanas do not require a lot of protein, and insects are an excellent source of nutrients. Greens and vegetables provide the insect protein that adult iguanas require. A pet iguana may be harmed by too much protein.


A pet iguana requires a constant source of water, even if he receives most of his drinking from his diet. A big dish that is difficult to spill and brimming with clean water should be accessible at all times.

Supplements Vitamin Supplements

Reptile supplements ensure that your pet iguana receives all of the vitamins and minerals it requires. Vitamin D3 and calcium tablets can be given to your pet once a week. About once a week, a reptile multivitamin may be added to his diet.

Supplements generally come in the form of powder and are simply added to meals. Only a tiny amount is required. Supplements should be used in moderation with your iguana’s food. Excess supplementation can be dangerous.

What Do Baby Iguanas Eat in The Wild?

There are a variety of different iguana species, and each requires a distinct diet. We’ll look at each type of iguana’s natural food sources.

Green Iguanas

Green iguanas are herbivores that primarily consume leaves, which means they are folivores. In the wild, a green iguana will mostly eat fruits, flowers, and foliage in the jungle canopy where it resides.

Green iguanas in the jungles of Central and South America will primarily consume leaves off trees and vines. They will also eat fruits to a lesser extent when these are in season.

Red Iguanas A Red Iguana

The red iguana is a color variant of the green iguana, which means it must eat the same food like a green iguana. That implies that red iguanas should consume leafy greens, vegetables, and fruits in their diet.

How To Feed Baby Iguanas? A Green Iguana in The Wild

Some individuals become frightened if they find out that their baby iguanas are refusing to eat the food they are being offered. However, keep in mind that iguana hatchlings consume the yolk sac up to two weeks after they are born. So, once the two weeks are up, you may start feeding them a little bit of food.

It’s much easier and more effective to feed a baby iguana after it has basked. You must maintain temperatures in the mid-80s °F for these animals, and the basking temperature should be at least a hundred degrees Fahrenheit (between 100 and 110 °F), or they won’t develop their metabolism.

Remember, in the wild, iguanas live on hot rocks that comfortably warm our lizards. They’ll then go looking for leaves, weeds, and fallen fruit once they’re nice and toasty. Keeping temperatures high enough to pique their desire is critical.

Prepare some collard greens, shredded carrots, and yellow squash for the primary dinner. Because of their bright color, shredded carrots and yellow squash are a good choice.

An important step to consider is to make sure that the food is not supposed to be too cold. If you’re using frozen veggies, allow them to sit out for a while before feeding your pet baby iguana.

As a first step, remove your baby iguana from his cage since you can’t feed him inside it. Now, change how you’re holding it by softly grasping his mouth with one hand. On the other hand, you’ll offer him food.

Hand feeding an iguana entails using one hand to hold him and the other to feed him. It would be much easier just to offer food while he’s standing free, but keep in mind that we’re dealing with a newborn, unruly iguana here.

Following that, put a little meal on the tip of his nose. He may become irritated and open his mouth, which is precisely what we want. Remember, we took the warm iguana right after his basking session, so he’ll be very active and aggressive. Most likely, he’ll try to protect himself by opening his mouth, which is why we’ve planned it that way.

You just apply a little pressure to the edge as he opens his mouth. Fill his mouth with this food gently. You can’t choke him unless you tube-feed the animal, but that’s a different story altogether. They will swallow their own food when it reaches a specific point in their throat.

As your baby iguana begins to taste it and pull it down on his own, watch as he learns the flavor of what he’ll eat. He’s learning the flavor of the meals he’ll consume. If he keeps his mouth open, you can provide him with a tiny bit more. Don’t be concerned about the quantity of food you’re providing him; his own teeth will fight it off, and we may simply let him finish swallowing it after a little struggle.

If your iguana refuses to open his mouth, try pushing the tip of your index finger against the base of his snout and gently encouraging him to do so. Patience is sometimes required.

Tell them that it is not something that will harm them. Hand feeding is a fascinating procedure that helps to connect you and your pet together. So, making a few efforts over time may result in considerable benefits.

What Are The Natural Predators of Baby Iguanas?

The word “iguana” is a catch-all term that refers to a wide range of lizards and lizard-like animals. The most prevalent is the green iguana, which may be found in parts of North and South America and is utilized as a pet by many people. Other varieties include the oceanic and desert iguanas. The iguana has a variety of predators because there are so many various types of iguanas, as well as numerous distinct individuals, in the wild.


One of the major predators of iguanas is the eagle. Birds such as eagles, hawks, and owls regularly consume both adult iguanas and unhatched eggs. Iguanas are also eaten by herons, other water birds, and several species of seabirds. These iguanas are most vulnerable just before giving birth and after they have completed their growth.


Snakes are a significant predator of both desert iguanas and green iguanas and their relatives, including guanay. Venomous snakes consume desert iguanas, while boa constrictors and near relatives devour green iguanas. Other reptiles, such as ground lizards, may also eat them.


Iguanas are not naturally preyed upon by mammals, however invasive species such as dogs, cats, and rats take them out of their natural environments. This is also true in places where the iguana is an invasive species, such as in Florida, where green iguanas abound. Mammalian animals such as household pet raccoons and rats prey on these iguanas.


Green iguanas are sometimes preyed upon by crocodiles and alligators. On the other side of the coin, black iguanas have been observed digging up and consuming these amphibians‘ eggs. The assaults by alligators and crocodiles on black iguanas may be defensive in nature, rather than a typical predator-and-prey scenario.


Larger predatory fish are a threat to marine iguanas. Sharks, in particular the tiger shark, which feeds on a wide range of prey species, eat iguanas on a regular basis.


A human is by far one of the most frequent predators an iguana may encounter. It’s surprising to learn that humans are a significant killer of iguanas, but they are eaten frequently in many regions due to their popularity as food. They’ve been given the name chicken of the trees since they’re frequently hunted.

Green iguanas are eaten throughout Central and South America. To meet the high demand, they are bred and raised on farms.

Are Baby Iguanas Healthy To Eat?

Green iguanas are hunted and eaten in several Latin American countries, according to National Geographic. In some countries, the species has been classified as endangered since people have been eating them for such a long time.

At least 10,000 years ago, Iguanas first entered human consciousness as a food source owing to their accessibility. It was also less hazardous for early man to capture than other creatures he encountered.

The meat of an iguana is prized in Mexico, Central, and South America for its high protein content and low-fat content.

Some restaurants in the United States will even provide iguana-based recipes on their menu. The flesh is incorporated in meals like tacos, stews, burritos, and soups and provides a mild flavor. This may be strange to some of us, especially for those that keep iguanas as pets, but we must be conscious that there are cultural differences that may exist, depending upon the region.

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Best Foods For an Iguana - Iguana Food List

One of the main parts of caring for your iguana is feeding it nutritious staple foods to keep it healthy. In this post, you will find a baby and adult iguana food list, best foods for an iguana, staples and a food chart for iguanas.

Please remember that the red iguana or blue iguana morphs will have the same diet as the green iguana.

As pets, iguanas need a strictly vegetarian diet, to live a long live and prevent issues with kidneys. So your iguana must only eat vegetables, greens, flowers and some fruits.

Your iguana must not eat any form of meat, insects, eggs, cheese, dog food and more. People used to give iguanas meat or bugs to make them grow bigger, especially at a younger age. Offering your iguana meat and bugs will cause kidney failure just after few years of this diet.

Any form of the protein that your iguana needs should come from vegetables. Iguanas also don’t drink much water – so they also get most of the moisture from the food. Dog or cat food to iguanas is dangerous – they are unbalanced in nutrients and high in protein!

How often do iguanas eat?

Iguanas eat 1-2 times a day, but some owners feed their iguanas only once in 2 days. The best practice is to feed your iguana its main meal in the morning, and offer some snacks later in the evening, 3 hours before the sleep, same time every day (iguanas love routines).

Iguana food chart

Your iguana must mainly eat leafy greens – you should offer them every day. Then, with less frequency, you can add other veggies and flowers.

Leafy greens should make up 50-60% of iguana’s diet. Then, 30-40% will contribute to vegetables and flowers. Fruits and berries should only contribute to 10% of your iguana’s diet.

Iguana food chart
Ca:P ratios, goitrogenic and oxalic foods in iguana’s diet

Please remember that Ca:P ratio is extremely important in iguana’s diet. The best greens, veggies and fruits should contain 2:1 Calcium to Phosphorus, or up to 2.5-3:1 Ca:P. Phosphorus ratio should never be higher than Calcium. If it is, you must mix them to reach the balance.

Even the multivitamins that you get must be balanced. Read everything about iguana supplementation in this post.

Foods also must not be high in oxalates (binding calcium) or goitrogenic (binding iodine).

Based on these factors, foods for iguanas are divided to staples, to occasional and rare consumption.

Each day, mix various staples, little bit of fruits and veggies to make a salad. Mix 4-5 types of greens (60%), 1-2 types of veggies (30%), and few pieces of fruits (10%). Don’t forget to alternate veggies, greens, flowers and fruits every day. This will provide varied nutrition.

Even if the fruit is in the staple food list, you must only offer 10% of fruits in iguana’s diet! Same goes to vegetables – 30-40%! Offer greens every day, and mix some staple or occasional veggies, fruits and flowers in the salads! Quantity and frequency is the key.

Please note that the diet for baby and adult iguanas should be the same. Make sure to start offering a variety of greens, veggies and fruits from the beginning. Otherwise, your iguana will become a picky eater.

Let your baby and juvenile iguana eat as much as it wants. But starting from the age of 4-5, reduce the portions a little to prevent obesity.

Best foods for an iguana – staples you can feed daily

  • Dandelion greens – both flowers and leaves
  • Collard greens
  • Turnip greens (offer at least every other day, a bit high in goitrogens).
  • Escarole
  • Mustard greens
  • Squash (grated spaghetti squash, butternut, yellow, Hubbard, gem, Kabocha, acorn).
  • Watercress (low in oxalates, 2:1)
  • Endive
  • Nasturtium (pesticide free flowers and greens – give as a treat or mix in)
  • Hibiscus (pesticide free flowers and greens – give as a treat or mix in)
  • Snap beans (mix with greens)
  • Parsnips (mix with greens)
  • Rocket
  • Alfalfa
Foods to feed your iguana 2-3 days a week (add some to staples)
  • Carrots (avoid carrot tops – high in oxalates)
  • Leeks
  • Asparagus
  • Zucchini (courgettes)
  • Prickly pear fruit (cactus leaves)
  • Apples (10% of the diet)
  • Rose petals (not sprayed with pesticides – give as a treat or mix in)
  • Mangoes (10% of the diet)
  • Papaya (10% of the diet)
  • Melon (10% of the diet)
  • Basil (herb – add some to the salad)
  • Sage (herb – add some to the salad)
  • Thyme (herb – add some to the salad)
  • Oregano (herb – add some to the salad)
  • Fennel (herb – add some to the salad)
  • Peppermint (herb – add some to the salad)
Foods that you can offer your iguana once a week (mix with staples)
Iguanas pay lots of attention to food presentation- they love eating straight from the source! How you present it on a plate also has a big difference
  • Swiss chard (high oxalate food)
  • Spinach (very high oxalate food)
  • Bok Choy (goitrogenic)
  • Kale (goitrogenic)
  • Broccoli (goitrogenic)
  • Sweet potatoes (high in oxalates and phosphorus)
  • Brussels sprouts (goitrogenic)
  • Okra (high in goitrogens)
  • Beet Greens and Beetroot (oxalic food)
  • Cabbage (goitrogenic)
  • Cauliflower (goitrogenic)
  • Parsley
  • Cucumbers (only good for moisture, chop some pieces in the salad)
  • Rutabaga (goitrogenic)
  • Tomatoes (oxalic food) (10% of the diet)
  • Asparagus
  • Lentils
  • Celery
  • Bell pepper
  • Mushrooms (high in phosphorus)
  • Raspberries (high in oxalates) (10% of the diet)
  • Watermelon (low in nutrition, but high water content) (10% of the diet)
  • Peaches (goitrogenic) (10% of the diet)
  • Pears (oxalic) (10% of the diet)
  • Strawberries (goitrogenic) (10% of the diet)
  • Figs (very high in oxalates, give rarely) (10% of the diet)
  • Plums (very high in oxalates, give rarely) (10% of the diet)
  • Apricots (10% of the diet)
  • Blueberries (10% of the diet)
  • Blackberries (10% of the diet)
  • Grapes (oxalic) (10% of the diet)
  • Bananas (very bad Ca:P ratio of 0. 3:1, give rarely) (10% of the diet)
  • Kiwi (very high in oxalates, give rarely) (10% of the diet)

You can occasionally offer your iguana some commercial foods like this. But make sure to offer water or spray the food with water (if possible). This is because most of the commercial foods are dry, so they lack moisture.

Avoid oranges, tangerines, grapefruits, pineapples, lemons, limes – all citrus fruits.

Do not feed lettuce to your iguana – they are very low in nutrition.

Avoid feeding bread, cooked rice, pasta – stick to the vegetarian diet.

Never feed avocados – they are toxic. You can find a full list of toxic and non-toxic plants, fruits and vegetables for your iguana in this post.

Also, you can find the full guide to iguana’s supplementation in this post.

What is more, you will find the guide to feeding iguanas, different rules and tips in this post.

Related posts:

Green iguana: maintenance, care, feeding, breeding

Iguana, like the chameleon, is most often found as a pet. All lovers of the exotic at least once thought to get an iguana. If cats and dogs do not impress you either, then why not turn your attention to this beautiful reptile? The chameleon, of course, can at least catch flies, but the iguana is beautiful. And after reading this article, you might want to get yourself one. Here you will learn everything about the habits, behavior, feeding, keeping and breeding of iguanas in order to properly prepare for the purchase of a new pet.


The common iguana is large. On average, this lizard grows up to one and a half meters, and its weight is about 3-4 kg (females are slightly smaller). Even the young after hatching from the egg are about 20 cm long.

Although the iguana is called green, its color is not always so. Coloring largely depends on the age and area where the lizard lives. They are purple, blue, pink, black - the list is far from complete.

The iguana has a long thin body and the same tail, flattened on the sides. Like most lizards, she can shed her tail to protect herself from enemies, and then grow it back. She has a large crest on her back that stretches all over her body. It is used to protect against predators in the wild. There are shields on the head, and a bag on the throat, which is needed for temperature regulation and mating rituals. The iguana has strong, wide and very sharp teeth. All four paws of the iguana are equipped with five fingers with sharp claws. She also has very good eyesight, but only during the day. She sees much worse at night.

Common iguana

Like many lizards, the iguana has a so-called "third eye", also called the parietal. This is a rudimentary organ on the head, which is needed to regulate the daily rhythm of the body. Most likely, it also helps the lizard to navigate in space.

The iguana's hearing is quite acute, but may change with temperature. Ideally, maintain around +37°C - sudden changes, especially warmer temperatures, can significantly impair hearing.


The mating season for iguanas is approximately two weeks. At this time, males select a place for mating and mark the territory. Their behavior changes to be more aggressive towards other males. It rarely comes to a direct confrontation, since a weaker opponent often prefers to leave someone else's territory than to fight. The male, ready for breeding, changes color to a brighter one and begins to inflate the bag around his neck. After mating, the female carries the eggs for a little over two months. After that, they dig a hole in the sand, where they place the masonry. At one time, she can lay from 20 to 70 eggs. Then the pit is dug in, and the future offspring remains on its own.

Reproduction Iguanas

In this form, the eggs can lie for another 3-4 months until they hatch. Then the cubs break through the shell and come out. Outwardly, they are almost no different from adults, except that they have a not so large crest. Caring for offspring is not a hallmark of iguanas, so little lizards take care of themselves. Immediately after birth, they are quite able to get their own food, although they often have a special yolk sac with a nutrient mixture that helps them live for a week or even two. During the first year, the entire brood keeps together, helping each other. Males even protect females from predators by covering them with their bodies. This behavior of all reptiles is characteristic only of iguanas. They live mostly for about 8 years in the wild, and in captivity and all 20.

What to feed?

Green iguanas feed mainly on plants or ripe fruits of trees. At times, they can even eat meat or small insects. Due to the presence of sharp teeth, lizards can bite off food in pieces and swallow, practically without chewing.

Baby iguanas can sometimes even feed on the feces of adults to get the microflora they need.

For the first three years of life, the iguana consumes a lot of dietary protein to help it grow. At this time, they can be given insects and spiders. Older individuals mostly sit on a leaf diet.

Food Iguanas

Like all reptiles, iguanas are cold-blooded. Their body temperature is completely dependent on the ambient temperature. If it's too cold around, the iguana will not eat well. Active food intake occurs mainly at 25-35 degrees Celsius. Also, iguanas may refuse to eat before and during molting. Females do not always eat in the later stages of pregnancy. Sick or stressed animals also often refuse to eat.

Iguana diseases

Diseases of these lizards develop with little or no symptoms. They appear only at an extreme stage, when it is already very difficult to cure the animal. The most common iguana disease is a fungus. The lizard has unusual dot colors and scaly spots.

Iguanas can also become parasitized due to poor food or dirty water. In addition, reptiles are prone to colds and even pneumonia. Inappropriate food can provoke inflammation of the stomach or metabolic disorders.

Iguana lizard

How to set up a terrarium

Iguanas love heat and can't stand cold at all. Therefore, if you decide to get yourself this reptile, take care of creating suitable conditions for it. The ideal temperature is 30-40 degrees Celsius. Anything lower will be detrimental to the lizard, so you'll need a heater to keep it warm.

Also place an ultraviolet lamp over the terrarium so that the iguana receives not only heat but also light. So he will feel better and will always be in a good mood.

In addition to warmth, iguanas love humidity, so provide a small pool of clean drinking water for your terrarium. This will allow the lizard not only to bask in the water, but also to drink, as they say, without leaving the cash register.

A standard drinker may also be needed, but the animal will have to be tamed to it. It will rather lick condensation from the walls of the terrarium, so you can spray them occasionally. Also, when you give fruit to the lizard, wash it, and then spray generously with water again.

Terrarium soil is not needed at all. Iguanas are very curious and will not disdain to taste pebbles and sand. An artificial grass mat or a regular bath mat is suitable as a cover.

Also provide the animal with driftwood and other decorations that it can climb on.

Iguana Terrarium

Among other things, the iguana needs good ventilation. This is a very important point, because without proper air circulation, the lizard will start to get sick. The holes in the lid will not fit, you need a large ventilation slot with a mesh.

Place the terrarium itself in the most quiet room, where the iguana will not be bothered by your other pets, with whom he definitely does not get along.

Interesting facts about iguanas

  • Iguana eggs are considered a real delicacy in some countries of South America.
  • The appearance of the main "hero" of the cult film Godzilla is inspired by an ordinary iguana. If you increase it to such a size, they really will be very similar. But the lizard is actually very peaceful and would not destroy cities.
  • The Maya Indians had a belief that our whole world is inside a huge room, where iguanas played the role of walls.
  • Another Indian, the Moche, considered this lizard sacred.

Iguana: feeding and maintenance - CityVet Veterinary Clinics

  1. Accommodation
  2. Lighting
  3. Water
  4. Temperature
  5. Humidity
  6. Bedding
  7. Diet
  8. Appeal
  9. Iguanas and other pets
  10. Treatment

Iguanas are one of the most popular lizards kept as pets. In nature, these reptiles live alone in tropical rainforests in a very limited area, converging with a partner only during the rutting season, which usually occurs in the summer. Males are distinguished by a brighter and more patterned color. The average life span of a green iguana in captivity is 15 years. With careful care and proper feeding, these reptiles can live up to 20 years. However, they require different conditions of detention than furry animals, which we will discuss below.


Do not let the iguana roam the house. Otherwise, the following will happen: your house will be destroyed, and the iguana will be injured. Most often, a lizard breaks its tail. Most often, the tail then grows back, but it will never look as beautiful. Also, the iguana can swallow small objects, which only a surgeon can subsequently remove. Well, and besides, a long stay outside the cage will negatively affect the temperature state of your animal, it may become cold.

An iguana needs a large and spacious terrarium or a polyurethane or glass cage. It should be borne in mind that iguanas can reach a length of 1.80 m and a weight of 8 kg. The terrarium should be about three times the length of the lizard itself. You should not choose a wire house: many iguanas have a habit of rubbing their noses against the bars and injuring themselves. The cage should be cleaned at least once a week, but more often is better. When cleaning the terrarium, never use soap, liquid cleaner, etc. One chemical smell can kill your iguana. You can clean the cage only with a sponge or cloth dipped in warm water. As a last resort, use baking soda.

Be aware that iguanas carry Salmonella bacteria. For the animals themselves, they are not harmful, but can cause a serious eating disorder in humans. Be sure to wash your hands with soap after every contact with your pet.


In the wild, iguanas spend much of their time basking in the sun. Sunlight is essential for the production of vitamin D, which iguanas require just as much as humans do to produce calcium in their bodies. Therefore, UV lamps can become an analogue of sunlight. However, your iguana needs a few hours a week, if possible, to be in natural sunlight. With the lamp timer, you can create a 12-hour day and 12-hour night for your pet.


In nature, iguanas always live in close proximity to water, so it is very important to provide the lizard with enough clean water for drinking and washing. Iguanas just love to swim and can do it for hours. Bathing helps them moisturize the skin, exfoliate the skin scales and remove bacteria from under the nails.


Improper temperature in the iguana's cage interferes with digestion, suppresses the lizard's immune system and can lead to lethargy. The temperature should be within 30-35 °C. At night, the temperature should not fall below 23.4 °C. As a heating device, you can use a conventional 60-watt incandescent lamp.


Iguanas need high humidity. Try to keep your pet's cage at 65-75% humidity. An ordinary hygrometer will help you determine this level. Spray the cage and the lizard itself more often with a spray bottle. Place small water containers, decorative fountains in the cage - this will also help maintain the required level of humidity. If your home is very dry, you may want to use a humidifier as well.


Bedding in the cage should be changed daily, small and large coconut can be used as it. Stay away from corncobs, sand, rocks, earth, sawdust, bark, newspaper, or cat litter: all of these materials your iguana can accidentally swallow and cause harm to himself.


Iguanas are herbivores. They really like finely chopped kale, lettuce, Chinese cabbage, chicory, arugula, mustard and turnip tops, dandelions, hibiscus. Small amounts of chard and spinach can be given. You should never offer your iguana animal protein: this lizard's digestive system is not designed to digest animal protein, which can kill your pet. Also, store-bought fruits are not always useful - they have too high a sugar content. Small amounts of banana, apple, mango or papaya can sometimes be given. Sprouted sprouts of beans, alfalfa, radishes are very useful. Try to diversify your iguana's menu as much as possible. Existing dry food for iguanas still cannot replace natural products, no matter what they say on the packages, so you can use such food as a top dressing.

Young iguanas should be fed small meals several times a day. Adult iguanas (greater than 26 cm in length) every other day. Start feeding after turning on the daylight, and your pet will warm up a little after sleeping. Be sure to change the water every day and remove any leftover food.

Multivitamins and calcium should also be added to the iguana's diet. In Russia, such drugs as Reptilife (Agrovetzashchita), Reptolife (Tetra), Wordley (Calcium and Multivitamin) are common.


To tame an iguana, it must be handled frequently and regularly. Iguanas quickly learn to show affection to their owners. It is advisable to pick up young lizards 2-3 times a day for about 15 minutes. Stroke his back and neck, let your iguana get used to being picked up. It is very important to remember that these reptiles can be aggressive in situations they consider dangerous for themselves: when their food is attacked, their territory is attacked, during the mating season. They can bite quite painfully, as well as use extremely sharp claws.

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