What can you feed a baby frog
Tadpole to Frog Kit DirectionsWelcome To Live Frog Growing Kit
WARNING: CHOKING HAZARD — Small parts. Not for children under 3 years
Congratulations: You are about to watch part of the incredible life cycle of a leopard frog! Expect the change from tadpole to frog to take approximately 12-16 weeks. The resulting frogs can live 5 years or more in captivity.
Changing from Tadpole to Froglet to Frog
Expect the change from tadpole to frog to take approximately 12-16 weeks. This change is called ‘metamorphosis.’ First, back legs will emerge from the tadpole. Gradually the tadpole will develop lungs and you’ll see some changes to the tadpole’s head like elevated eyes and a wider mouth. When the tadpole’s front legs develop it will stop feeding on tadpole food and its tail will begin to shrink. At this time it will start climbing partially out of the water. A tadpole that has front and back legs but still has a tail is called a “froglet. ” A froglet may stop eating tadpole food but not be ready to eat adult frog food yet. The froglet will get its nourishment from its tail as the tail is absorbed into its body. When the tail totally disappears it is now considered an adult frog and ready for it’s first frog meal.
Important: If the tadpole is slow to develop- feed more often; change the water more often; and/or place the habitat in a warmer area. Tadpole growth is directly related to the number of complete water changes you do.
When Your Tadpole Arrives
Your tadpole is a leopard frog tadpole. It looks like a little fish and lives entirely in the water.
These tadpoles need 1 gallon of water each so if you are providing your own habitat make sure it is large enough for your tadpole. If you ordered our complete kit with a habitat then you have the correct size. To prepare your habitat fill it around ¾ full of warm (not hot) tap water. Read the instructions on the water treatment so you add the correct amount. Add the water treatment solution into the water and stir. This step is very important because water can contain chemicals that are dangerous to tadpoles.
Before putting the tadpole in the habitat, let the treated water sit for at least 2 hours. This allows the water to become the same temperature as the water in the tadpole’s transport bag. After 2 hours, you can open the bag the tadpole came in and pour the entire contents into the habitat. Don’t be worried if there is no movement at first, it can take up to a day before the tadpole explores the habitat.
Important: Keep your habitat at room temperature (65 to 78 degrees F) and out of direct sunlight. Do not shake or tap on the habitat, as this is stressful for the tadpole.
Caring for Your Tadpole
FEEDING: The tadpole may not eat the 1st day in the habitat as it adjusts to its new home. The tadpole eats the tadpole food included with the kit. We have included all the food the tadpole will need. Tadpoles are vegetarians and in the wild they eat bits of algae and plants. Our tadpole food is great for them and will not decay or foul water as quickly as leafy foods. As it grows, the tadpole will need to eat more food. Start by feeding it one pellet of food, which should last about 3 days. You will need to increase the frequency you give the tadpole a food pellet as it grows. It is important not to overfeed the tadpole because left over food will decay and having dirty water will harm the tadpole. If you run out of food or misplace it, tadpoles love goldfish food from the local pet store.
CLEANING THE HABITAT: Clean water is very important to the tadpole –most problems tadpoles have are caused by water that is not clean. Once a week, or more often if the water looks cloudy, change the habitat water. To do this, first wash your hands and rinse them well to make sure you have no soap or lotion on your hands that can get into the habitat when you remove the water. If you have our supply bag, there is a cup included or you can use your own cup. Use the cup to remove all but around 3 inches of water from the habitat. Then, scoop the tadpole into the cup with some water (about ½ cup full is OK) and set in a safe place. Pour out the rest of the dirty water from the habitat and rinse the habitat in the sink with warm water. Do not use soap or other cleaners in your habitat. Now refill the habitat with warm (not hot) tap water and add the water treatment solution. Let this treated water sit for 2 hours so it becomes the same temperature as the water in the cup with the tadpole in it. After 2 hours, you can pour the entire contents of the cup into the habitat.
Important: Never use soap or other cleaners in your habitat. The residue can hurt tadpoles and frogs.
ADDING A ROCK OR BRANCH: When you see the tadpole has developed front legs as well as back legs, you will need to provide a way for it to rest outside of the water on dry ‘land’.
Without a resting spot it is forced to swim continually and it can drown now that it has developed lungs. Use the cup to remove all but about 3 inches of water from your habitat. Find either a rock or floating piece of wood that is large enough that it will stick out of the water and be dry on top. Rinse any excess dirt off of the rock or wood before placing in the habitat. Place the rock or wood so the new froglet has easy access to the dry ‘land’ and make sure the sides are not too high or steep for it to climb up on it. The rock or wood can take up as much as half of the habitat space. The other half should be water.
Caring for Your Frog
FEEDING: Sometimes a frog won’t eat for the first week so don’t worry. Frogs eat living insects and worms. They will not eat dead insects because they hunt based on movement of the prey. You can feed your frog crickets, mealworms or earthworms from the pet shop. Or you can collect your own insects like moths, sowbugs, flies or caterpillars. Only feed 1 or 2 at a time on the dry ‘land’ part of the habitat. Remove any dead insects from the habitat before adding more.
CLEARING THE HABITAT: Frogs need clean water just like the tadpole did. Continue to do a water change at least once a week like you did when it was a tadpole. When your frog is too big to stay in the cup during water changes, you will want to find an escape-proof small container for it to stay in during the water change.
ABOUT YOUR LEOPARD FROG: Frogs can live 5 years or more in captivity. An adult leopard frog can grow to 4 to 6 inches, but it takes years for them to get that big. Female leopard frogs are usually slightly larger than males, but it’s not really possible to tell which you have. Leopard frogs will not mate in your habitat because they do not mate until they are 5 years old and like special conditions not offered in your habitat.
CAN I PLAY WITH THE TADPOLE OR FROG?
No. A tadpole’s skin is fragile and is easily damaged if handled improperly. A frog is delicate and may escape or be injured during handling.
WHAT IF I CAN NO LONGER CARE FOR MY FROG?
Please do not release the frog outside. Your frog may not know how to survive in the wild because it has not learned to hunt on its own. Some suggestions: find a friend or neighbor who would like a pet frog, or donate it to a school for a wildlife display, or give it to a local pet shop who can possibly find it a home.
Frog Growing Kit Facts:
Q: Do you give a Guarantee?
A: Yes. We guarantee your tadpole will arrive alive. After it arrives we can no longer guarantee it as most problems with tadpoles come from improper water care.
Q: How long before I get my tadpole?
A: If your kit came with a certificate for a tadpole, mail, fax, or email it to us per the instructions. Allow 2 weeks for it to arrive.
Q: Can I order tadpoles during the winter?
A: We ship tadpoles year-round but only order your tadpole if it is above 40 degrees in your area.
Q: How many tadpoles can I put in my habitat?
A: Only 1 tadpole per gallon of water.
Q: My tadpole isn’t moving. Is it dead?
A: Probably not, it can take up to a day before the tadpole explores the habitat.
Q: How long does it take the tadpole to become a frog?
A: Approximately 12-16 weeks with weekly complete water changes.
Q: My tadpoles were doing fine and then next day they are dead. What happened?
A: This is usually a water problem. If you accidentally introduced hand lotion or soap into the habitat during a water change, or forgot to add the water treatment to tap water, or overfed and have dirty water for too long then it will harm your tadpoles.
Q: Do I need a heater, filter or gravel in my habitat?
A: No – room temperature water is best, filters may take away the tadpole’s food and gravel makes water changes very hard and isn’t necessary.
Q: Can I put a new tadpole in my habitat with a frog?
A: No, the frog may consider the tadpole to be food.
Q: What if I run out of tadpole food or water treatment solution?
A: Your local pet shop carries these – tadpoles like goldfish food and you can use any water treatment made for fish tanks that removes chlorine and neutralizes metals.
How to Care for Baby FrogsBy Jacob Reis | Updated September 26, 2017
Baby frogs require special care, especially in feeding, to survive and live to adulthood. As amphibians, they also require a habitat relative to their natural habitat to thrive.
Things You'll Need
A glass aquarium
A piece of plexiglass cut and sanded
Nontoxic aquarium sealant
Substrate like potting soil or sand
Plants, logs or other hides
A water dish for dry-environment species
Crickets, worms and other insects
Reptile diet powder for insects
Building the Habitat
Step 1: Choose an Aquarium
Many toads and some frogs live in dry, arid environments and do not do well in aquatic conditions. Others require much more water. Consult a herpetologist -- a reptile scientist -- if you aren't sure about your frog. Match the frog's enclosure as closely as possible to its natural habitat and consider the adult size of your frog before deciding. Most species do well in 20-gallon aquarium tanks. Make sure to choose a secure-fitting lid as well. Baby frogs are adept escape artists.
Step 2: Add Substrate
Many semiaquatic species, like the firebellied toad, are happiest in an enclosure that is half dry land and half water. Cut a piece of plexiglass to the width of the tank and to a height equal to the length of a full-grown frog of whichever species you will own, plus one inch. Sand the top edge until it's rough but not sharp -- your frogs will climb over this from water onto dry land. Secure this plexiglass in the middle bottom of the tank with aquarium sealant. You should now have two equal sides with a piece of plexiglass between them. Layer both sides with just enough aquarium gravel to cover the glass, then build one side of the tank up with another type of substrate like sand or potting soil right to the level of the plexiglass.
Step 3: Add Water
Use distilled water to fill the other side of the enclosure. If your frog is from a warm or tropical environment, a water heater may be necessary. Getting the temperature right is especially important for baby frogs. Use a low-power aquarium filter to keep the water clean. If you're providing a dry environment for arid-habitat species, provide a water dish at least large enough the frog to submerge itself.
Step 4: Add Plants and Hides
Frogs require places to hide. Using a hollowed-out half-log on the dry side of their tank lets them get under cover when they are tired or feeling threatened. Adding real or artificial plants to the enclosure also helps to mimic frogs' natural environment. These plants and hides also retain moisture, which will help keep humidity high for species that require it. Use a stick or long piece of bark in the water, leaning onto the plexiglass, to provide your frog with another way from water to land.
Frogs receive all their necessary vitamin D3 from their diet and as such do not require full-spectrum reptile lighting. Normal lights will work fine for them.
Caring Specifically for Baby Frogs
Once froglets have absorbed their tadpole tails and become frogs, their care is very similar to that of adult frogs. The only difference is in feeding. Growing frogs require more regular feeding than adults. Feed your frogs daily, usually at dawn or in the evening, depending on the species' natural schedule.
As carnivores, frogs must be fed insects. Crickets are ideal for baby frogs, as pet stores carry them in a variety of sizes. Use insects that are not longer than your frog's mouth is wide. This will prevent choking and ensure that the insects don't harm your frog. Remove uneaten food at dawn if fed in the evening, and in the evening if fed at dawn. As your frogs grow, they can start to take larger insects, like earthworms.
Sprinkle crickets with reptile diet powder two or three times per week to ensure that your frog gets the vitamins and minerals he needs.
Do not touch or hold your baby frog if not absolutely necessary. Not only are baby frogs' skeletal structures fragile, but many frogs absorb chemicals through their skin and may pick up anything you may have on your hands. Baby frogs are especially sensitive to outside chemicals. Observe your baby frog's behavior from outside of his enclosure instead.
Do not house baby frogs with larger frogs. A small-enough baby can become a meal for your larger critters.
How to raise a frog at home
Have you ever raised a frog? But most scientists began their great journey precisely with the cultivation of frogs, noticing the growth of tadpoles and their behavior. Let's be scientists together and raise our frogs too.
What do you need? Remember where you have a small body of water nearby - a pond, a huge puddle, or a tributary near a river. We go there and look for frog eggs near the shore with grass. What it looks like is shown in the photo.
Scoop some caviar into a glass jar, along with water, and take it all home!
At home, pour the water with caviar into a large jar, but best of all into an aquarium. We cover our reservoir with a lid with holes or a plank and set it away from the sun. Make sure that the water does not evaporate and add some fresh water from the reservoir where the caviar was taken. You can also insist on tap water yourself, but not less than three days.
After about a week and a half, frog eggs will look like tadpoles, as in the photo below. The higher the temperature, the faster they can "hatch".
Such freaks will at first seem to hang on their tummy and won't move at all. At this time, they feed on the remnants of nutrients that were in the yolk sac.
Slightly grown tadpoles scrape off the algae cover that grows on the walls of the reservoir and the plants in it, therefore, their mouths seem to be made of two scrapers.
Tadpoles can breathe at first only with external gills, since gill slits are not yet formed.
After another one or two weeks, our tadpoles have those same gill slits and internal gills, thanks to which they will begin to breathe fully. Still, in about three weeks, legs will appear, and our tadpole will no longer look like a defenseless creature.
Here we have almost grown a frog, though still with a tail, but soon it will dissolve.
By now, you should have prepared a small island for the frogs to dry off, as adult frogs spend most of their time on dry land. Such a raft can be made from a piece of foam.
Now let's move on to feeding! Frogs must be fed, it is better if they are algae and other plants from a pond or river. But in the absence of such nearby, you can start feeding with leaves, but not fresh, but dried and ground into powder. You can also add some dry yeast.
You can put a leaf of cabbage, it will get a little wet, the frogs will start sucking on the leaf. Some crumble bread, kids will also not refuse such a treat. In general, they will be happy with any plants. Don't expect the frogs to eat right away, they can wait until the food gets wet and starts to rot a little.
Make sure that the water is always fresh, otherwise the whole house will start to smell bad, and real scientists do not need to breed unsanitary conditions!
On land, the tadpole's tail falls off, though no matter how it falls off, it dissolves and disappears.
Such a frog can easily be released into the pond where you took the eggs. The whole process of development, from eggs to frogs, in favorable conditions - 1.5-2 months, in normal conditions - up to three months.
In these few months you can be a scientist in the field of metamorphosis! And it's so interesting, it's a miracle of transformation from one cell into a whole, living and full-fledged frog!
Try to follow the growth and life of frogs with your children. We are sure that you will enjoy the whole process so much that it will not end with 1-5 frogs!
We will be glad to receive photos and comments about your success in growing frogs!
How to feed a frog in an aquarium at home
Classification, representatives of the order Rodents
In total, 2277 species of rodents were described in 2005. In the past, they were divided into three suborders based on the structure of the jaw muscles. Today, 5 suborders and more than 28 families are distinguished.
Consists of eight families:
- mole rats;
- hare-lipped hamsters;
- mouse hamster.
Almost 2/3 of all rodent species belong to a single family of mice (Muridae). This family includes 1303 known species, and this number is constantly increasing as a result of new discoveries. Mouse are distributed throughout the world, including Australia and New Guinea, where they are the only terrestrial placental mammals (not counting the recently introduced rabbits). The family is mainly represented by mice and rats.
Field mouse (Apodemus agranius)
Representatives of the mole rat family (Spalacidae) are most adapted to life underground. Their eyes are completely hidden under the skin, and the auricles and tail are missing.
Common mole rat (Spalax microphthalmus)
To a greater or lesser extent, all members of the jerboa family (Dipodidae) are adapted for locomotion by jumping or recocheting.
Long-eared jerboa (Euchoreutes naso)
Suborder Protein-like (Sciuromorpha)
Consists of three families:
The squirrel family (Sciuridae) is the second most diverse family after the mouse family (includes 273 species). Representatives of squirrels are distributed throughout Europe, Africa, North and South America. The common squirrel is its most famous representative. This also includes ground squirrels, chipmunks and marmots.
Squirrel (Sciurus vulgaris)
Dormouse (Gliridae) in appearance is a cross between mice and squirrels. They are the only rodents that do not have a cecum, indicating a low amount of cellulose in their diet.
The only species of the Aplodontiidae family is Aplodontia (mountain beaver).
Suborder Beavers (Castorimorpha)
Represented by three families:
- bag jumpers.
Beavers (Castoridae) are large rodents with cheek pouches and strong limbs. The most famous, of course, is the beaver. He is famous primarily for the fact that he can change the landscape in his habitats. With the help of powerful incisors, he fells trees, building dams and huts from this material (more about beavers in this article).
Members of the gopher family (Geomyidae) spend most of their lives underground in their own burrow system. Outwardly, they look like moles.
Plains gopher (Geomys bursarius)
Scattered jumping rodents (Heteromyidae) are nocturnal burrows that inhabit a variety of American landscapes.
Suborder Porcupine (Hystricomorpha)
This suborder unites about 300 species in 18 families (agoutia, porcupine, mumps, diggers, chinchillas, rock rats, etc.).
Most of them are large rodents living within South and Central America. Among them, the most famous are porcupines, guinea pigs, mole rats, nutrias, chinchillas, etc.
North American porcupine (Erethizon dorsatum)
Suborder Spiny-tailed (Anomaluromorpha)
Includes 2 families:
The first family (Pedetidae) is represented by a single species, the long-legged, living on the African plains. This animal looks like a miniature kangaroo.
Long-footed (Pedetes capensis)
Thorntails (Anomaluridae) from the rainforests of Africa are similar in appearance to squirrels, but have a very distant relationship with them.
squirrel spiketail (Zenkerella insignis)
What do frogs eat, what do toads eat? Large toads eat any animal food that they can catch and swallow: slugs, snails, bears, even mice, they also feed on ants, larvae, beetles, butterflies, grasshoppers.
Garlic frogs and moor frogs feed mainly on ants, click beetles, spiders, ground beetles, and also eat earthworms, caterpillars and other invertebrates. But moored frogs can be found during the day, and the spadefoot burrows into the ground for a day.
Common spadefoot Pelobates fuscus (Laur.)
Common frogs feed mainly on beetles, flies, mosquitoes, but also grasshoppers, slugs, aquatic insects, butterflies.
During the day, grass frogs hide in damp places, clinging to the ground, and spadefoots burrow into the soil. Toads, going out to feed in the evening, often bathe in water or dew.
Amphibians, more than birds, eat insects with an unpleasant smell and taste and insects with a protective color.
If cultivated plantings in gardens and fields are treated with pesticides, frogs and toads, birds and beneficial insects die, and pests adapt, become immune to similar poisons and multiply exponentially, forcing the use of ever stronger poisons.
Sharp-faced frog (Rana arvalis Nilsson)
In places where a person treats nature carefully, wisely, biocenoses of plants and animals, including frogs and toads, are formed, which regulate the number of various pests of the garden. Yes, there are wormy apples, but the products are environmentally friendly, because the worm will not eat a harmful plant.
In many places in vast Russia, it is customary to burn autumn leaves, grass, and branches. But after all, a lot of beneficial insects and frogs hibernate in them and under them. And after spending the winter, not even in a compost heap, leaves and grass can serve as excellent mulch and part of soil mixtures. Tree branches can be buried in new beds, and even better, they can be processed into wood chips (read "Garden Branch Shredder") and sprinkle paths on the site, the ground under trees and shrubs, where they will rot and enrich the soil.
Let's take care of the space we live in together, don't litter and poison! Then we will be healthier too.
I photographed this beautiful green toad on my porch in 2008, the photo can be viewed in a large size. These toads are very rarely seen.
Green toad on the porch
And I accidentally dug up the spadefoot from the ground, washed it to understand what color it was, and photographed it. You will not see her during the day, because she feeds only at night. And her pupil is vertical, unlike frogs and toads.
Author Olga Bogach https://svoimirukamivdome.ru/
You can read more on the site Lotus Lake in Khabarovsk.
You can read more in this section:
Beneficial insects - scoli, typhia, betylids
Bumblebee - useful insect, photo
Garden bug - photo, garden bugs - fight or help
Wasp - useful insect , road wasps
Beneficial ichneumon parasitic pests
Ladybugs, what they eat and where they hibernate
General information about toads and frogs: differences
Toads and frogs are tailless amphibians that live in water and on land. Even when leaving the water, these animals are very dependent on it. In addition to pulmonary, they also have active skin respiration, which allows amphibians to stay under water for a longer time. But dry air and prolonged exposure to the sun's rays have a detrimental effect on them.
What does a frog eat? You can find out more about this in the article below.
Frogs and toads are closely related. Their difference lies in the fact that frogs have smoother skin, long strong hind legs have well-developed membranes between the fingers. All this helps the frogs to jump well and swim quickly. And the toad has dry skin covered with “warts”, their paws are weak and short, allowing them to move only in waddling or short jumps. The membranes between the fingers are not developed, and therefore they swim poorly, and spend less time in the water (in fact, only during the breeding season).
It is difficult to determine what the frog eats by its structure and appearance, but it can be assumed. She has a flat back and head, and her eyes often protrude above the water surface like liquid bubbles, without betraying the animal itself. The hind legs are strong, like a spring, and the front paws, arranged like palms, are grasping. The jaws of the frog are studded with sharp, small, inward-facing teeth. A sticky tongue is located in a wide mouth. Comparing all of the above external signs, we can assume what the frog eats - mostly small aquatic inhabitants.
One of the most popular domestic species is the clawed frog, and it is albinos (light with a pink tint) that become inhabitants of aquariums in most cases. These are unpretentious amphibians, except that in food they may seem like gourmets. Their body rarely grows more than 8 cm in length.
One individual needs 10 liters of water for its conditionally comfortable existence. The water temperature should be around 18-22°C. To equip a house for such a resident, you need a filter: without it, it will not be possible to cope with the volume of dirt produced by the frog. Be sure to close the aquarium with a lid or glass with a gap. If you leave the "door" to the tank open, then you will then look for your Zelenka or Nicanor throughout the house.
The white clawed frog prefers medium-sized bloodworms, daphnia, and small earthworms to eat. The frog will not refuse a shred of lean meat. The main thing is not to overfeed pets: they are voracious creatures, they don’t follow diets, but they are threatened with obesity. An adult frog needs to be fed twice a week, while growing amphibians eat more often - 4-5 times a week. It is interesting that the aquarium inhabitants hold food with their paws, quickly sort through them, push a tidbit to their mouth.
Of the minuses of the clawed frog, one can note attempts on small fish. Neons or guppies will definitely become the prey of an amphibian if you decide to make them neighbors. And clawed frogs are really dirty: they crap, and also dig the soil in a wrecking manner. Plants are also torn and broken.
Among amphibians there are several popular species.
Hymenochirus. Miniature frogs, on average, grow up to 4 cm. These are more slender frogs than clawed frogs: they have thin legs, a not so rounded body, and a pointed muzzle. They can live comfortably even in a 5-liter jar. Animals are thermophilic, do not tolerate frequent changes of water.
It is difficult to get used to fixed food, because by nature they are predators. They are also lovers of digging up the soil and raising all the rubbish to the surface of the water; these amphibians cannot be called clean.
True amateur zoologists will want to keep frogs at home in order to study them (and not just know their names), keep diaries of observations, and take care of them.
Today, the following types of aquarium frogs are distinguished:
- Clawed frogs. Often they are called xenopuses. These species are bred by many aquarists.
- African pygmy frog. For an inexperienced aquarist, this species is not suitable. After all, its existence became known not so long ago.
Among the African clawed frogs, you can pick up pinkish as well as white pets. Albinos were bred artificially, in the laboratory. Under natural conditions, white and pink aquarium frogs are found.
The wild clawed aquarium frog is distinguished by its shade. It has a brown, grayish-olive shade
You can distinguish wild from ornamental toads if you pay attention to the presence of membranes, the density and length of the limbs
Housing for dexterous jumpers
The requirements for "living space" for frogs are modest: even a 3-5-liter jar will suit medium-sized individuals, but for the convenience of observations, it is better to use an aquarium with a capacity of 20 liters or more (50-60 liters is already a luxury ). It should be remembered that frogs like to hide in secluded places, actively dig in the ground and, much more than fish, pollute the water with their secretions.
The main disadvantages of clawed frogs are their large size and predatory habits. If they are settled together with fish, the frogs will surely eat all the smaller and weaker neighbors. Pips are dangerous only for small things the size of guppies and neons. And for a completely harmless hymenochirus, on the contrary, the neighborhood of large, voracious and cocky fish is highly undesirable.
Anyone who keeps water frogs should remember that the aquarium must be covered with glass or mesh. Clawed frogs are agile jumpers. They can suddenly (usually at night) leave their home for no apparent reason, and then they will inevitably die from drying out. Hymenochiruses are also able to jump out of the aquarium, not to mention pipas, who can climb vertical glass well thanks to the mucous membrane of the lower body. In the glass covering the aquarium, of course, there must be a sufficient number of ventilation holes: after all, frogs breathe, rising to the surface of the water and swallowing atmospheric air.
Once on the floor, the clawed frog demonstrates amazing agility, sliding on a wet belly, trying to return to its native element as soon as possible. It is difficult to catch an incredibly slippery jumper: even when clenched in a fist, it “leaks” between the fingers, becoming almost flat, or, turning into a lump of muscles, desperately kicks, kicks back with its legs, trying to scratch the hand that grabbed it.
It is better to use fine river gravel or granite chips 4-6 mm in size as the substrate in the aquarium. It is inconvenient to stir up such soil, and it will not muddy the reservoir. Sand, on the contrary, contributes to the accumulation of silt, frogs stir it up in search of food, and the water in the aquarium becomes dirty. However, this does not matter for pipids, they only dislike an oily film on the surface of the water that prevents them from swallowing air.
Plants suitable for paddling are large enough, with strong stems and leaves, with a strong root system. Given the habit of frogs to dig under unstable objects, the lower part of the plant bushes should be overlaid with stones.
Soil and plants decorate the pond and provide biological balance. However, with good filtration or frequent water changes, the frogs also feel great in a completely empty aquarium with a couple of clay shards at the bottom. By the way, powerful filters should not be used: being inhabitants of stagnant waters, peeps do not like rapid streams with bubbles.
Frogs are less sensitive to water quality than the most unpretentious species of fish. When cleaning the aquarium for replacement, use ordinary tap water, which has settled for one to two days. Naturally, sudden changes in temperature should be avoided. Purging water with a microcompressor, despite the pulmonary respiration of amphibians, is useful, but if it is not there, it does not matter either. An interesting feature of hymenochirus was noticed by amateurs. It happens that a “herd” of one and a half dozen specimens sits in a simple 3-liter jar, without any purging and filtration, in muddy “old” water - each frog has excellent health, and transplant them into a decorative aquarium, ideal from a human point of view , conditions - diseases begin.
Hymenochiruses are the most capricious of the water frogs. It is desirable for them to maintain the water temperature at least 20, and preferably 24 ° C, since in cool water the body's resistance to infectious and fungal diseases is sharply reduced.
Dwarf pips also like warmth, but are more tolerant of cold temperatures.
The optimum temperature for keeping clawed frogs is normal room temperature, i.e. 18-22°C.
It must be remembered that frogs are rather nervous and impressionable creatures. They do not like loud noises near the aquarium, such as knocking. In a panic, the frogs begin to rush about sharply, hitting walls, stones, plants, raising silt from the bottom. This timidity does not go away with them until the end of their lives, so treat it with understanding. At the same time, frogs easily get used to taking pieces of meat from a knitting needle, tweezers, and even from their hands.
Frogs in the aquarium should receive not only food, but also vitamin and mineral supplements. They can be bought at pet stores. But the problem is that for amphibians there is no clearly defined norm for adding fortified feed, so the portion has to be calculated approximately, “by eye”.
It should be remembered that an excess of vitamins, especially such as fat-soluble "A", "O", "E", can sometimes lead to the death of pets.
Feeding the frog at home should also be foods containing calcium, it is especially important to observe this rule in relation to young amphibians. The frequency of calcium supplementation depends on age:
- young birds should be offered this supplement every day,
- older ones once a week.
As products that contain calcium in their basis, we can distinguish:
- crushed white school chalk,
- crushed raw chicken egg shells.
Do not forget that calcium is well absorbed by the body only in combination with vitamin D3, to promote its production is used.
Reproduction of aquarium frogs
Several times a year, aquarium frogs enter the mating season, and in some species this season is accompanied by loud singing.
The eggs laid by the female, as a rule, are fertilized within a day. Some species of frogs actively eat their eggs and tadpoles, so it is necessary to deposit adults in a separate tank.
Newly hatched tadpoles are happy to feed on fresh or dry nettles, as well as a mixture of powdered milk and yeast. Tadpoles, as they develop and grow, need to be sorted by size, as cannibalism is often observed. After a month and a half, the tadpoles lie on the bottom and the water level needs to be lowered. The result is the appearance of many young frogs.
Diseases of frogs and their prevention
In too polluted aquarium water, as well as in insufficient oxygen, domestic frogs can get sick with an infectious disease called "red paw". It must also be remembered that a poor diet provokes the development of metabolic bone disease in amphibians. When choosing a feeding regimen, it is necessary to take into account the voracity of unusual pets and strictly control their weight.
In the albino version it is light yellow or white. The clawed frog becomes sexually mature at the age of one, and if the conditions are good, it can live up to fifteen years.
Spurs are quite picky. When choosing a volume for an aquarium, one must take into account that in some cases a frog can grow up to 16 cm, but for small individuals - one or two - a simple five-liter jar is enough.
One of the most exciting things to do as clawed frogs can take food from your hands over time. At the same time, you can not be afraid of bites, since they have no teeth. As well as language, however.
What to feed? The choice is large. It can also be special food for aquatic frogs and turtles. It can be live fish, such as guppies. It could be insects from a pet store. Some even feed dog and cat food, but this is not recommended!
In general, live, frozen, artificial food - the clawed frog eats everything. Including carrion.
In any case, keep balance in mind and alternate feeds.
How much food to give the frog - you need to find out empirically. Much depends on age and size. As a rule, they are fed daily, giving such an amount that the frog can eat within 15-30 minutes.
Overfeeding usually causes less problems than underfeeding, as they simply stop eating when they are full. In general, you need to look at how your frog eats and looks. If fat, then feed her every other day, if thin, then daily and give different foods.
Ornamental amphibians reach sexual maturity after the first 2-3 years of life. For reproduction, it is required to equip a separate container with a water temperature two degrees higher than in the main tank. You can determine the readiness of pets for breeding by the characteristic sounds that residents make.
Fertilization takes place at night: the male hugs the female, after which the couple turns over and returns to the standard position. The expectant mother then lays eggs, which are fertilized by the father. After laying out, the parents are removed from the container.
Caviar reaches 1-2 mm in diameter, the number is 200-400 eggs. After a couple of days, larvae hatch into the light, and then tadpoles. Babies are fed tubifex, ciliates and brine shrimp. After six weeks, the tadpoles transform into adults.
Aquarium frogs are cute creatures that can recognize their owner and will be the highlight of any artificial pond. In addition, the frogs are interesting and exciting to watch, and the care and maintenance of pets does not take much time and effort of the owner.
It's hard to say that aquarium frogs are the cutest creatures. Fish are cleaner and less aggressive than amphibians. But wildlife lovers, who are ready to organize mini-ecosystems at home, prefer to start frogs instead of silent fish (or together with them). Out of a great love for zoology, you can join the number of owners of such unusual pets and take care of them.
Interestingly, the clawed frog, ready to be your pet, is the first vertebrate to be cloned. And one more curious fact: about 100 years ago, the clawed frog was used as a pregnancy test. If you give her an injection of pregnant urine, she will start spawning under the influence of hCG.
Because frogs are interesting zoological objects, many people don't view amphibians as living aquarium toys. They are serious about keeping amphibians, caring for them, and observing them. And they carefully study all available information in order to allow the underwater inhabitant to live a completely comfortable and happy aquarium life.
If you are keeping a pair of large frogs, then the approximate volume of the aquarium should be about 100 liters. The tank needs good filtration and little aeration. Fireflies, on the other hand, will live in an aquaterrarium, a special device. A couple of adult toads should expect a tank of at least 5 liters.
10-20 liters is enough for two Shportsevs. There should certainly be enough shelters in the aquarium, because this species prefers seclusion to the “secular” way of life.
The basis of proper preparation is settling the liquid for 3 days, this reduces the amount of chlorine in it. Amphibians are unpretentious to the level of acidity and hardness of water. Experienced aquarists advise not to pour it out when changing the water in the tank. Settled and drained from the sediment, the water is suitable for filling the fish tank. The water temperature is quite high - from 22 to 28°C for different types of amphibians.
Large pebbles are required as substrate for popular types of aquarium inhabitants. For an American pipa, fine gravel will also be suitable. Fireflies like sand and clean gravel, claws prefer pebbles.
Plants, if present in the aquarium, can only be hard-leaved. You can plant them strictly in pots, otherwise the frogs will quickly start excavations. Well, if the plants form whole thickets in the water house, the frogs will like to hide behind them.
It should be noted that frogs, like all living beings, are prone to disease. Some diagnoses of aquarium amphibians are quite common.
- Nematode infection. Amphibians become gray, rough, their skin peels off. They lose weight very quickly, and with a scraping made from the skin, millimeter worms can really be noticed.
- Fungal diseases. More often, the fungus affects the injured areas of the skin, where a cotton-like plaque is formed that can move throughout the body.
- Red paw. This is the name of a bacterial infection in which red spots appear on the paws and muzzle of a frog.
- dropsy. Another bacterial infection, in which the amphibian swells like a ball, swells, the body loses its usual contour.
Treat frogs with products for tropical aquarium fish, choose them according to the causative agent of the disease. If there are several frogs in the tank (or they live with fish), the sick pet will have to be isolated. Frogs with obesity and pets living in uncomfortable conditions are more susceptible to diseases.
Xenopus is a smooth clawed frog that has long been bred in captivity. Hymenochirus is a dwarf frog that has become popular not so long ago. The adults of these species are very different from each other. This is manifested not only in appearance and habits, but there are significant differences in the features of the content. In a pet store, animals are usually kept in one aquarium
As a result, when selling, no one focuses on their species
Features of each species
If there are pink or white frogs with red eyes in the aquarium, then these are clawed. In this case, the size of individuals does not matter. It is worth noting that this variety of albinos was bred artificially for laboratory experiments at the Moscow Institute of Biology.
If the frog is small and has an olive, brownish or grayish color, then to determine the species, it is worth paying special attention to the thickness of the limbs, as well as the length of the body, the presence of webbing on the front paws between the fingers and the pointedness of the muzzle. Clawed aquarium frogs, which have a wild color, are denser
Such individuals have thick legs with bandages, like those of a child. They also have no membranes and a rounded muzzle. The spurred one can grow up to 12 cm.
As for Hymenochirus, this species, on the contrary, has slender and long legs. In individuals of this species, the muzzle is more pointed. It should be noted that the body length of an adult is no more than 4 cm.
Description of species
In fact, there are only two types of frogs that can act as pets.
- Xenopus. It has an alternative name "sponged frog".
- Hymenochirus, and if it is easier to call it, then “dwarf frog”.
Both of these species can be very easily bred under certain conditions
It is very important to be able to correctly distinguish between such representatives
Most often you will find these creatures planted together in one large aquarium, but it is quite easy to distinguish them.
- Albino, or literally a white frog with red eyes - Xenopus. This species was bred by Russian scientists specifically for research in laboratories.
- If you notice grey, blotched brown, or even olive skin, you can be sure it's a pygmy frog.
One of the main differences between the dwarf frog is its size, which does not exceed 4 centimeters. In the case of a decorative albino frog, its size can even reach 12 centimeters, and this one will most likely have membranes on its paws. That is why distinguishing the type of pet you need from another popular type will not be a difficult task.