What to feed baby savannah monitor
Savannah Monitor Care - CHICAGO EXOTICS ANIMAL HOSPITAL
Erica Mede, CVT
Description
Savannah monitors, also called Bosc monitors, are large carnivorous lizards that resemble tegus more than typical monitors. When handled regularly, these large bodied, stocky lizards can become quite docile and even enjoy the physical interaction in some cases. The necks of Savys are slightly longer than those of tegus and much thicker than those of other monitor species. Savannah monitors have a broader rounder snout with forked tongues that are deeply grooved. Generally, they are a light tawny to light brown coloration.
Monitors are incapable of autonomy (“tail drop”). Most Savannahs reach a size of 3-4 feet from snout to tail tip and live around 8-12 years although some have lived longer.
Natural History
Savys are found throughout northern Africa . These large, terrestrial lizards inhabit the dry, grasslands (savannahs) but frequently burrow to escape the heat of the day and for security. Savannah monitors enjoy swimming and lounging in water.
Feeding and Diet
In the wild, Savannah monitors are carnivores consuming small mammals, eggs, insects, carrion, small birds, small reptiles, and fish. Although these lizards are carnivores, they have a penchant for roaches, earthworms, super worms, and other insects. These aggressive eaters will consume nearly anything placed in front of them. However, variety and balance are key to a healthy monitor. Hatchlings and juveniles are primarily insectivores in the wild but in captivity can be taught to eat other foods as well such as Mazuri carnivore mixed with insectivore chow.
Hatchlings should be fed every day with a strong focus on gut loaded insects. Crickets, dubia roaches, giant meal worms, and earth worms should make up the bulk of the diet. Pinkie and fuzzy mice can be offered but it is recommended to wait until the hatchlings are a bit larger and older.
Small amounts of boiled or cooked eggs and small amounts of fish can be offered as well to round out the meal and offer variety.
Savannahs under 2 years old should still be fed 3-4 times a week until they reach sexual maturity and roughly adult size. Whole prey such as mice, make excellent feeders for smaller Savannahs whereas the larger ones can be fed various adult mice sizes. Cooked or boiled eggs, fish pieces, earth worms, roaches, giant or super meal worms, and other insects should be added to the diet.
Adults should be fed 1-2 times a week depending on their body condition (obese monitors should eat less often than under weight monitors). The bulk of an adult Savannah monitors diet should consist of rodents (mice to small rats), the occasional baby chick, insects, eggs, and fish should all be offered as well. Pieces of cooked chicken can be offered as a treat for enrichment as well as training in some individuals. Obesity is a common problem in Savannah monitors and food should be fed as meals when adulthood is reached rather than constant supply.
There are various methods and recipes for feeding monitors and commercial diets are an easy option for most keepers. A primary diet of Mazuri Carnivore for adults is recommended with the addition of Mazuri Insectivore diet when feeding young monitors. Lean ground turkey is a welcome addition to any savy diet as long as it is not the bulk of the diet. All Savys should have their meals dusted with a calcium supplement and a multi-vitamin supplement used once to twice a week.
Enclosure
These lizards are terrestrial although they can climb low level branches. Savannahmonitors are diggers by nature and are decent swimmers as well. A soak in a large bin or tub twice a week will give monitors plenty of exercise and naturalistic enrichment. Hatchlings can be easily housed in a 20 gallon aquarium or enclosure of a similar size although they will quickly require larger accommodations. As monitors grow they will need a 55 gallon tank or larger (keeping in mind floor space is important) or a custom enclosure.
Once your Savannah hits 1-2 years old it is recommended to create a custom enclosure that or at the very least, a 75 gallon aquarium. It is highly recommended to offer an enclosure that is roughly 6-8 feet long, 3-4 feet wide, and 2-3 feet tall for adults. Savannah monitors require space to roam and sprawl out. Make sure that all enclosures are sturdy and escape proof. A locking door is recommended especially for wild caught or aggressive adults.
Substrate
There are numerous substrates to offer monitors in their enclosure ranging from complicated naturalistic set-ups to simplistic newspaper. Newspaper, although unattractive to look at, is easily cleaned out and savannahs genuinely seem to appreciate hiding under the layers of paper. Butcher paper can be used as a uniform color alternative. Since Savannahs enjoy burrowing and will spend most of their time hidden under the substrate if allowed, they seem to benefit from the addition of dig boxes.
Dig boxes are designated areas or enclosed sections of top soil that can go as much as 2 feet deep! These boxes allow the savanah to fulfill natural desires to dig as well as offer another form of enrichment. Entire enclosures can be covered in top soil but it is hard to clean out effectively and tends to accumulate missed feces as well as offer feeder insects escapes from hungry monitors.
If particulate substrate is desired, aspen and orchid bark are safe alternatives with some owners finding a happy medium with a mixture of orchid bark and topsoil. In this author’s humble opinion, the most enrichment can be achieved by covering the bottom of an enclosure with indoor/outdoor carpet and offering a top soil covered section of the cage (preferably with a lip to keep the soil from covering the rest of the cage). This not only offers multiple substrates to walk on but also offers the keeper ease of cleaning especially if a cement mixing tub or similar is used for the dig spot.
All substrates should be changed at least every 2 weeks completely and spot cleaned daily. Savannah monitors housed on particulate bedding or soil should be fed in a dish or a separate bin especially if live feeder insects are used.
Lighting
UVB lighting is typically not required for the care of monitors especially those fed whole prey diets. However, improper diet can lead to calcium deficiencies and the addition of an ultraviolet B radiation bulb such as a ReptiSun 5.0 is recommended. Although not necessary, it is recommended to offer exposure to ReptiSun 2.0 or 5.0 during day light hours.
Heating
Savannah monitors can happily be housed in ambient temperatures ranging from 80°F on the cooler end of the enclosure and 85°F on the warmer end of the enclosure. Ambient temperatures can easily be maintained utilizing under tank heaters, heat cable (only on the outside of the enclosure), heat tape, heat bulbs, ceramic heat emitters, and heat emitting panels.
The basking site should be maintained between 95°F and 100°F ideally. At night, the enclosure should never fall below 75°F.
All heat sources should ideally be kept on a thermostat that allows for proper gradients while offering piece of mind to owners as well. A thermometer should be placed ideally one inch above the substrate on the cooler end of the enclosure. Another thermometer should be placed once inch above the substrate on the warmer end of the enclosure and the one last thermometer at the basking site.
Humidity
Coming from the savannahs of Northern Africa , these lizards should be maintained at 50-60% relative humidity. This can easily be monitored using a hygrometer. Humidity can be maintained with large water bowls or bins, misting systems, foggers, humidifiers in large enclosures, and spraying the enclosure 2-3 times a day. Moist topsoil, if offered, will also help preserve the humidity.
Enrichment
Finding ways to keep monitors entertained and active is as simple as wrapping earthworms or a piece of fish in a lettuce leaf or as complicated as modifying wiffle balls to hold roaches or meat chunks to move around.
Creativity is essential for excellent monitor keeping. Tree trunks, tree branches, and root stocks make excellent obstacles, hides, and climbing surfaces. Make sure that all climbing surfaces are more horizontally angled as they are not necessarily agile climbers especially as they get older. Dig boxes are essential for working out extra energy and allowing for natural behaviors. Large soaking basins or twice weekly soaks in a kid pool or large rubber maid offers enrichment and another way to exercise Savannahs. Hide boxes are also a requirement, especially those that do not have anything to burrow into or hide under. Although a hide box is offering a place to retreat, this is a form of enrichment as well. The addition of straw and hay in the enclosure allows the Savannah monitor to experience new smells and sensations as they walk and dig through it.
Sources and Recommended Readings
Lizards Volume 2, Manfred Rogner
General Care and Maintenance of Popular Monitors, Michael Balsai
Reptile Medicine and Surgery 2nd Edition, Doug Mader
Monitors, Tegus, and Related Lizards, Patricia Bartlett
If you have any questions, please feel free to call us at 847-329-8709.
Savannah Monitor Care Advice, Enclosure & Diet Information
The Savannah Monitor is one of the smallest and most popular species among the monitor genus.
They are popular because they are very friendly and are easier to keep than other larger monitors.
This does not mean they are suitable for beginners and they still require advanced care.
Known to like insects and small mammals, they are an inactive pet and will spend most of their time basking or lounging in their enclosure.
These African lizards need to live in large enclosures with high temperatures. If you are interested, read one below to find out how to care for them…
Table of Contents
- Savannah Monitor Overview
- What We Like About Savannah Monitors
- Species Appearance
- How Big Will a Savannah Monitor Get?
- Color Variations and Markings
- Savannah Monitor Enclosure
- Savannah Monitor Cage & Set Up
- Cleaning & Misting
- Savannah Monitor Care
- Savannah Monitor Diet
- Savannah Monitor Lifespan & Health
- Typical Behavior
- Are Savannah Monitors Friendly?
- Handling Advice and Tips
- Baby Savannah Monitor
- Buyer’s Guide
- Savannah Monitor Facts
- Summary
Savannah Monitor Overview
Baby Savannah MonitorSavannah Monitor PortraitSavannah Monitor In An EnclosureSavannah Monitors are naturally found in sub-Saharan Africa.
As their name implies (savannah terrain), they like to live among the rocky desert and woodlands.
This species is used to the hot temperatures of sub-Saharan Africa. They naturally soak themselves in pools of water to keep cool.
Reptile owners love them because they have a very docile nature when compared with larger monitor species.
Grayish-tan in appearance, they have spots on their backs and rings on their short tails.
They eat a variety of invertebrates and small mice. In the wild, they hunt using their tongue to pick up chemical cues from the environment they live in.
Solitary lizards, they will only interact with their own species during the breeding season. If you are planning to keep this reptile, it should be the only one you have in the enclosure.
Unfortunately, they are considered to be endangered by some organizations due to hunters seeking them out for their skin.
What We Like About Savannah Monitors
Pros
- One of the friendlier monitor species, they make a great first monitor.
- Relatively few health issues and are very hardy.
- Can survive in low humidity and have low husbandry requirements.
- They can grow up to three feet in length and weigh as much as 11 pounds. Grayish-tan in color, they have dorsal spots and rings on their tail.
Cons
- This species must be housed alone. You cannot have more than one in an enclosure at once.
- They need a very big enclosure and their housing set-up may be costly.
- Savannah Monitors are carnivorous; eating insects as well as the occasional rodent.
- They require extremely high temperatures in their basking spot.
Species Appearance
Savannah Monitor PortraitThere are five subspecies of the Varanus exanthematicus, so their appearance and size will vary based on which species you purchase.
However, all Monitors have deeply forked tongues. This helps them pick up chemical signals from their environment.
Their typical appearance is stocky and thick with a wide head.
They have a short neck and tail.
You may need to rely on a veterinarian or expert herpetologist to sex your lizard, because there is no true sexual dimorphism. This makes it very difficult to tell males and females apart.
How Big Will a Savannah Monitor Get?
Full grown Savannah Monitor lizards are between two to four feet in length by four years old. They can weigh as much as 13 pounds.
At birth, Babies are only a couple inches long, but they grow incredibly quickly.
Color Variations and Markings
This species has a gray-brown base color with have dark-edged yellow spots on their back. They have a bluish tongue and yellow and brown rings on their tail.
Savannah Monitor Enclosure
This lizard lives in a natural habitat of rocky deserts and forests in Africa’s wild savannah.
They are relatively inactive in the wild. They will spend much of their time basking and soaking themselves and will likely display similar behaviors in their enclosures.
Because they like to spend plenty of time soaking and in the forest, their cage should have some logs, branches, rocks, and even cork bark slabs.
Any of these items will work as long as they can be easily cleaned or removed for cleaning.
Savannah Monitor Cage & Set Up
Although they are only considered a medium-sized monitor Savannahs are still a large reptile.
They need a large enclosure which should have a space of about 5ft x 4ft x 4ft – if not more.
Their tank will likely need to be custom made and should be ready for when you bring your lizard home.
Enclosures should be made of plexiglass or plastic.
The top of their enclosure should have a screen to allow for airflow, whilst being secured to prevent any escapes. These monitors are very strong and smart.
Baby Savannah Monitors should be kept in 50-gallon tanks. This tank will be big enough for their first six months.
They grow quickly so some reptile owners decide to put them directly into their adult enclosures:
- Tank Type: plastic or plexiglas cage.
- Tank Size: 5ft x 4ft x 4ft minimum.
- Lighting: UVB and high wattage basking bulb required.
- Substrate: newspaper.
Active during the day, they require a UVB light for essential vitamin production, especially for babies! Lighting should be on for about 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness each day. You should also use an incandescent bulb to create a very hot basking spot. Make sure the incandescent light is out of reach from your monitor.
In terms of temperature, the daytime gradient in the enclosure should be 80℉-95℉.
A basking spot should be even warmer, as high as 120℉ is ideal.
Being a desert-type lizard, Savannah Monitors are not as picky about their humidity levels as many other reptiles.
In their natural environment, it is very dry and arid. Because of this, the basking spot can be kept at very low humidity. The rest of the tank should be kept at between a 50 to 60% humidity.
The water-pool in your Savannah Monitor’s enclosure should be large enough to soak in too.
Finally, because monitors are messy, a suitable substrate would be something that can be cleaned easily! It will need to be spot cleaned every day and thoroughly cleaned out at least once a week.
Given that they will be in a large enclosure a substrate like newspaper will be the easiest to clean. Make sure not to use sand or gravel as this can cause bowel obstruction, especially in Juveniles.
You should also avoid reptile carpet as it can entangle and tear their large claws.
Cleaning & Misting
As a species, monitors are very messy and defecate frequently. They have a tendency to defecate in their water, so be sure to monitor it carefully and immediately change it if it becomes dirty.
Their pool of water should contribute to keeping the tank at mid-level humidity, and you should not have to mist the tank. The best way to keep track of this is to place a humidity gauge on the cool side of the tank and only mist if the humidity falls below 40%.
Their enclosures must be cleaned frequently.
Feces should have a normal solid brown part and a solid white part too. If it is unusually colored or textured, this may be a sign of a health problem.
Feces should be spot cleaned every day from their enclosure, especially if it is in their water.
The entire tank should be thoroughly cleaned out every week or two.
This may require removing substrate or various logs and branches and temporarily homing your monitor somewhere else.
Savannah Monitor Care
Monitors should always have access to clean drinking water.Savannah Monitor Diet
This Lizard eats a variety of invertebrates and small mammals in the wild. They are not picky about what they eat and may eat insects, mealworms, small mice, or even snails. You can on occasion feed a mouse. They may also eat thoroughly cooked pieces of beef, but ideally they should stick to mice and invertebrates.
A carnivorous reptile, they hunt and sense their environment by flicking their tongue to pick up chemical cues.
Food should be dusted with a calcium supplement, and a multivitamin should be fed if you are not feeding mice to your monitor.
When you feed your monitor, place the food into the cage so that they can forage for it. This keeps them more active:
- Adults should be fed several insects 1-2 times a week (larger monitors may eat less frequently).
- Juveniles should be fed 2-3 times per week.
- Babies should be fed every other day.
Baby Savannah Monitors will eat the same basic diet, anything from crickets and waxworm larva to pre-weaning mice.
Any live food, for adults or babies, should be removed at the end of the day if uneaten.
Finally, monitors should always have access to clean water.
Their water bowl should be large enough for them to soak in; built-in containers or plastic pans work great.
Savannah Monitor Lifespan & Health
Savannah Monitors live about 12 years in captivity but can live up to 20 years with good husbandry.
They usually have few health issues in captivity, especially if they are captive-bred.
Two distinct problems may occur with a poor diet:
- Metabolic bone disease can result from a lack of calcium and may cause your lizard to feel sluggish.
- Obesity can result from overfeeding your monitor. If your Lizard starts abnormally gaining weight, you may need to restrict the amount of food they are consuming temporarily.
Wild-caught Monitors are prone to having parasites, which is one reason that you should acquire this species through a breeder.
They enjoy soaking themselves, so you shouldn’t need to bathe them.
Signs They Are Healthy
- Basking and soaking normally.
- Eager to eat.
- Clear and bright eyes.
Sickness Symptoms
- Lethargic and sluggish.
- Sudden weight gain.
- Dragging their limbs or tail.
Typical Behavior
Sometimes this species will “play dead” to fool predators.
When not in captivity, the Savannah Monitor is a solitary reptile and will only socialize with its own species during its breeding season.
Known for being very territorial, males will fight if they come into contact with one another.
They are not particularly active creatures and will spend time lounging in or out of the basking spot.
Most of their time will be spent basking and occasionally foraging for food, they do this with tongue flicking. Tongue flicking in captivity may indicate that your monitor is hungry or just being curious.
They only communicate with each other through pheromones and other chemical signals which they detect with their tongue.
Mating and fighting will show different forms of communication.
To ward off predators, they might hiss loudly and thrash their tail, or it may play dead as a last resort.
These creatures must be housed alone due to their territorial behavior towards other lizards.
Are Savannah Monitors Friendly?
Yes, especially as far as monitors go.
They are a very friendly species and can be taught to tolerate handling over a period of time.
They are generally one of the less nervous monitor species so get along well with their owners.
However, they are strong lizards and require a strong grip.
Once tame they may not show aggression to you.
A wild adult can deliver a strong bite or nasty scratch it not socialized properly.
Handling Advice and Tips
The Savannah Monitor is one of the most docile species among the monitor genus. However, this does not mean they tame easily.
Monitors require a lot of patience and work from their keeper to to be well-socialized.
Safe handling requires lots of face time and repetitive handling.
It is a commonly known fact that most reptiles carry Salmonella bacteria. Washing your hands before and after handling is good for your health and can prevent infections.
Another problem owners may find during handling are scratches from their lizard’s nails.
The best way to handle your monitor is to place a firm grip behind the reptile’s head and put one hand near the hind limbs.
Baby Savannah Monitor
The breeding season occurs during the wet season (i.e. May). A male will follow a female and will periodically bite and scratch her neck until she allows copulation.
Females need a nest box to lay eggs. In the wild, she would usually make her own or lay them in a termite mound. For your monitor, a suitable nest box can be a plastic tub filled with soil.
After she lays her eggs, they should be incubated in groups in a ten-gallon aquarium filled with vermiculite and water.
There is a 5-6 month incubation time, and the container should be opened occasionally to let oxygen in. They should be incubated at 82℉, and the temperature and moisture should be monitored carefully.
There are usually 20-50 eggs per clutch.
Hatchlings are a couple inches long at birth.
They will start eating insects and other invertebrates a week after hatching.
They will need to be feed nearly every day at the start and then less often as they age (see diet guide above).
Buyer’s Guide
Savannah Monitors are one of the more readily available monitors and cost about $50 to $100 USD.
It is strongly recommended that you obtain your Lizard from a trusted breeder, rather than somewhere where they are wild-caught.
Wild-caught monitors are highly prone to having parasites and are often stressed when forced to adapt to a captive lifestyle. Breeding them in captivity can be difficult, so while finding a captive-bred monitor may prove to be more of a challenge, it is worth the effort for your experience and the species’ protection.
Savannah Monitor Facts
| Vital Facts | |
|---|---|
| Common Name | Savannah Monitor |
| Scientific Name | Varanus exanthematicus |
| Price | ~$100 |
| Size | 2. 5 to 4 feet long |
| Lifespan | 12 to 20 years |
| Diet | Insects and other invertebrates |
| Tank Size | Minimum 5ft x 4ft x 4 ft |
| Humidity & Temperature | Daytime temperature: 80℉-95℉ Basking Spot: 100°F-120°F Humidity: 60% |
| Popular Alternatives | Ackies Monitor, Black or White Throated Monitors |
Summary
Savannah Monitors are one of the more docile monitors in the world of reptile keeping.
They do require a high temperature in a large habitat, but they also have an easy feeding routine and are tame.
If you are looking for a smaller breed of Monitor, the Ackies is a very popular choice and is easier for some beginners to handle. If you are looking for more of a challenge, the Black or White-Throated Monitor is a good idea.
They can make a great and fascinating addition to a home, will it be for you?
keeping at home, photo
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The Cape monitor lizard is the most suitable species for keeping at home. He is the most sociable, easier to tame than other monitor lizards. Very few terrarium keepers know the important aspects of caring for pet dinosaurs.
Cape monitor lizard (Varanus exanthematicus)
The range of the Cape monitor lizard is West Africa (Sudan and the Republic of the Congo). It is a tropical and semi-tropical region with a variable climate. It can be both dry and wet, especially when it becomes very rainy in their habitats. The level of activity of Cape monitor lizards directly depends on the season. So, for example, at high humidity monitor lizards are especially active, while in the dry season there is no food and they practically do not consume it. The conditions that must be created in the terrarium directly depend on these climate features.
Cape monitor lizard (Varanus exanthematicus)
Maintenance and care
Americans and Europeans' craving for the exotic has affected the attitude towards pets.
In this century, meeting a monitor lizard in an apartment or a private house is surprising, but not very much. In addition to the exotic appearance, this was facilitated by the average size of the animal and the simplicity of its maintenance.
Cape monitor lizards have a quality rarely found in reptiles, they are friendly, make contact with people, and can be tamed. The terrarium for the Cape monitor lizard is the first thing to start with keeping a reptile in the house. You can buy it or build it yourself.
Initially it may be a small dwelling, an adult animal will need a terrarium 2-2.5 meters long, 1-1.5 meters wide, 0.8-1 meter high. Given that the monitor lizard grows up to 1.5 meters, these requirements do not seem excessive.
Cape monitor lizard usually appears at an early age in domestic conditions. Even a young reptile has a desire to dig. Therefore, soil is poured in a thick layer at the bottom of the terrarium: coarse sand interspersed with pebbles, pebbles.
You can build a wooden or clay shelter. Its presence will make the life of the lizard more comfortable.
Monitor lizards love warmth. The temperature regime in the terrarium is uneven. The place under the lamps should warm up to 35-40 ° C. In a cooler corner up to 25-28 ° C. At night, the temperature in the terrarium is kept in the range of 22-25 °C.
In addition to incandescent lamps, caring owners arrange heating of the terrarium from below. Provide sunlight or install low-power ultraviolet lamps.
A container with a small amount of water is placed in the terrarium. Monitor lizards, descending into the pool, moisturize their skin. From how to care for the Cape monitor lizard, how to equip his home, the health of the animal depends.
Feeding the steppe monitor lizard is a task of medium complexity, but no less important than furnishing a dwelling. The first rule is not to overfeed. This does not correspond to the natural mode of food consumption.
The amount of food depends on the weight of the animal and the calorie content of the food.
On average, a monitor lizard is fed food with a total weight of 3-5% of the animal's weight. For growing, young individuals, the portion is larger, for adults, less.
The menu of the steppe monitor lizard at home corresponds to what the reptiles manage to catch in nature. Crickets, grasshoppers, other orthoptera. Sometimes the owners feed the lizard with chicken meat. Once or twice a year, a monitor lizard can be offered an egg. For adults, a mouse can serve as a treat. Nothing greasy and no wild-caught rodents.
Before you feed the Cape monitor lizard, you need to remember that reptiles in their homeland starve for months. This happens during the dry season. But even in the rainy season, you have to run a lot for food. At home, catching grasshoppers is canceled, physical activity drops sharply. Monitor lizards immediately begin to gain weight.
Unlike mammals, the process of fat accumulation is irreversible. In a fat monitor lizard, the load on the internal organs increases.
The heart muscle suffers. The liver and kidneys are degraded. Therefore, at home, food is given to the lizard every other day or less.
Description and features
The main habitat of the Cape monitor lizard is the steppes and savannas located south of the Sahara, in the subequatorial belt of Africa. Monitor lizard does not avoid agricultural fields, pastures, bushes and light forests. The Cape monitor lizard in the photo is a large lizard, usually posing against the background of sand, stones, thorns and tufts of grass.
Juveniles often inhabit farmers' fields. They settle in burrows built by invertebrates, eat their hosts, grow to exterminate all types of insects that are suitable in size. Burrows expand as they grow. They live secretly, during the day they sit in holes, at dusk they begin to catch crickets and grasshoppers.
As they grow older, they seek larger shelters, master burrows dug in abandoned termite mounds by other animals. Cape monitor lizards can climb trees.
They rest and hide in the crown. They catch insects there.
Steppe monitor is an egg-laying animal. One-year-old monitor lizards can participate in the extension of the genus. In August-September, the mating season begins. By November, pairs are created.
The female prepares the nesting site. This is a recess located in a secret place - among the bushes, in the voids of fallen trees. Eggs are laid in December-January. The masonry is sprinkled with a substrate. The female leaves the nest, not caring about safety. The key to the survival of the species is the abundance of masonry. It contains up to 50 eggs.
After about 100 days, young monitor lizards appear. They are born in the spring, with the onset of the rainy season. During this season, Cape monitor lizards, both newborns and adults, most actively forage for food.
They are completely independent. Their length is 12-13 cm. They scatter in search of shelter.
The crown of a tree and an abandoned hole can serve as salvation. On the very first evening of their lives, newborns go hunting. Slugs, snails, small insects become their prey.
How long the Cape monitor lizard lives in natural conditions is not precisely defined. According to zoologists, this figure is approaching 8 years. In captivity, in a zoo or while living in a home terrarium, the lifespan is stretched to 12 years.
Cape monitor lizard: keeping in a terrarium
It should be understood that this reptile will require considerable material and time costs for the future owner. Where this reptile will live, it is imperative to maintain a certain temperature regime. First of all, it is necessary to acquire a horizontal type terrarium, in which the Cape monitor lizard will live.
Keeping at home is a rather troublesome task. The size of the terrarium should be one and a half to two lengths of a lizard. In addition, it must be additionally equipped with a thermal mat or an incandescent lamp. The daytime temperature in the terrarium should be 28 degrees, the night temperature should be at least 20. It is advisable to equip some kind of shelter for the reptile, like a solid stone grotto or house. This will make her feel more secure. The bottom of the terrarium can be covered with artificial grass with a two-millimeter pile or covered with coarse gravel or sand. Immediately you need to place a small reservoir, the dimensions of which must correspond to the dimensions of the reptile. For those who are interested in how to toilet train a Cape monitor lizard, do not worry. Babies instinctively defecate into the water. Therefore, a daily fifteen-minute morning bath will save you the hassle of cleaning the terrarium and washing the trays.
Keeping a Cape monitor lizard at home
To keep a monitor lizard at home, it is necessary to have a terrarium , which in its structure will resemble the natural habitat. It will be necessary to elaborate on this issue.
The Cape monitor lizard belongs to the family of terrestrial reptiles. A horizontal terrarium would be suitable for him. The best option for keeping a baby would be a small terrarium, which will have to be changed as the monitor lizard grows.
For an adult, the size of the terrarium should ideally be two, three lengths monitor lizards. The height of the terrarium must be at least 80 centimeters. This is necessary so that, standing on its hind legs, the pet could not reach the ceiling, lamps or wiring even with its tongue.
But too high terrariums do not need to be constructed, since the light source will not have the necessary effect at a great distance.
It is important to note that if the animal has been well tamed, the monitor lizard spends all his free time walking around the apartment, leads active lifestyle and gets daily walks on the street, you can get by with a small terrarium designed for pets to sleep, as well as places where you can warm up and get a portion of ultraviolet radiation.
The terrarium must be fitted with a UV lamp, eg model ReptiGlo 10 UVB.
But even in such a situation, it is clear that the lamp is not able to provide the pet with ultraviolet light in the same way as natural solar lighting does. You should walk your pet during the seasons when the weather permits.
The pet must be supervised by the owners even in their own home, especially in situations where there are children.
At night, the temperature in the dwelling where the monitor lizard lives should not fall below 24 degrees;
Daytime temperature must have heat sources where the pet can warm up his body to 38-40 degrees. And also cool in shady or cool places.
For the aviary, it is advisable to purchase a heated mat or a thermal cord. You can use stones that can quickly heat up, in nature such stones are called limestone. They have the ability to heat from the lamp and keep warm for a long time.
reservoir must be installed in the terrarium.
Instincts dictate to the monitor lizard about the need to empty into the water, you can accustom them to a latrine with water almost immediately after purchase.
Many members of this species like to spend their time lying in the water. An adult monitor lizard is easily accustomed to bathing in a shallow bath with warm water. Bathing the monitor lizard in the morning for 10-15 minutes will save the owners from constant cleaning in the terrarium and will greatly facilitate the maintenance of the pet.
If we consider the soil for arranging a monitor lizard, then a green grass mat, river pebbles, coconut fiber mat would be a suitable option. One positive feature of iguanas that monitor lizards have is that they don't try things on their tongue like other reptiles. Owners do not have to worry about the fact that the pet will eat any small object, or a pebble.
Tree bark can be used for decoration. Stick mounting foam on the walls so that the pet can climb. When decorating the terrarium, it is necessary to pay attention to the fact that the objects are not too large, and with their help the animal could not reach the lamp or wiring.
Monitor lizards are very fond of hiding places in their environment. They willingly climb into various narrow places and cracks. But the presence of such entertaining shelters will greatly complicate the process of taming the animal. Free shelter that can be built is a tree trunk without a core, large pots and various kinds of arches.
Temperature and humidity
Those who have experience in keeping a monitor lizard, be sure to pay attention to the strict observance of the temperature regime in the terrarium
However, it is important not only to maintain a constant temperature, but also to ensure that in the warmest corner of the reptile's dwelling the temperature is 30 degrees, and under the lamp - all 40 during the day and 25 at night
Such a temperature diversity in one territory will allow the lizard to choose the optimal mode according to your condition and mood. Under the lamp, so that the monitor lizard can bask, you can install a snag, natural stone or a special shelf.
To achieve comfortable humidity, it is enough to spray the bottom of the terrarium 1-2 times a day with slightly warm water from a spray bottle (it is best to cover the bottom with a layer of gravel or sand).
Types of monitor lizards for home keeping
Hazel dormouse: keeping at home, caring for animals
lizard. They hope that if they take a small lizard, then later it will grow and become tame, as it will completely get used to people and they will not be an object of aggression for it. This is partly true. Therefore, they most often breed the tegu of an ordinary or Cape monitor lizard. Why exactly them? The fact is that the weight of such an adult animal does not exceed 5 kilograms, and its body length is not more than 1.2 meters. These are just those optimal sizes that can find a place in your home and in your heart. In addition, the appearance of such monitor lizards is quite attractive - they have a beautiful slender body and a color that is not quite usual for lizards.
And, although these are quite brave animals, they are at the same time very shy, so you can always keep your monitor lizard "in check". Read more about keeping lizards and whether it is worth getting such a pet here.
Common tegu
Common tegu is up to 1.2 meters long and weighs up to 5 kilograms. As a rule, such monitor lizards have a brownish black color with a bluish tint, and sometimes they are called blue tegus for this coloring. On the back of such monitor lizards there are 9-10 transverse stripes that make up yellow spots. The same spots can be placed on the tail and on the back of the monitor lizard.
Steppe monitor
The body length of an adult steppe monitor reaches 110 centimeters, and if we add the length of the tail to it, then the size of such a monitor can be equated to 2 meters. These are very beautiful monitor lizards, they have a slender body, and original coloring. They are also classified as oviparous species of lizards and in one clutch there can be from 15 to 30 eggs.
Water monitor
As you may have guessed, this type of monitor lizard lives in the aquatic environment, so for its comfortable living you need not a terrarium, but an aquarium. These are very calm and balanced creatures who are only interested in two things in life - that there is constant food, and that there is clean water in the aquarium. In matters of nutrition, such monitor lizards, like land monitors, are not whimsical, and their diet can be called standard.
Monitor terrarium
In order for your monitor lizard to live comfortably near you, you must purchase one for it (applies to terrestrial monitor lizards). As for specific recommendations for choosing such a terrarium, it is preferable that it be of a horizontal type, and its dimensions should be at least 120x60x50 centimeters. Additionally, such a terrarium will need to be equipped with heating - for this you can use a thermal mat, a thermal cord or heating lamps. During periods of activity of your monitor lizard, such daily heating should be carried out for 12 hours.
And, here are the ultraviolet lamps - they are also very important, they should be turned on throughout the day, even when it seems to you that there is enough light in the room. At the same time, you must ensure that the night temperature inside the terrarium does not exceed 20 degrees, and the daytime temperature does not exceed 28 degrees.
Comfortable temperature for a monitor lizard
Those who have been keeping and breeding lizards for many years, including monitor lizards, pay attention to the fact that it is very important to observe a strict temperature regime, and make sure that, for example, in a warm the temperature in the corner of the terrarium was 30 degrees, under the lamp - all 40 (at night - 25 degrees). This will allow the monitor lizard to choose the optimal temperature regime for itself, depending on its condition and mood. By the way, so that the monitor lizard can bask under the lamp, place a snag, stone or a special shelf under it
By the way, in order for the monitor lizard to bask under the lamp, place a snag, stone or a special shelf under it.
Comfortable humidity for a monitor lizard
Keeping an eye on the temperature, do not forget about the humidity. So, it is necessary at least once a day to spray the bottom of the terrarium (it is better to lay a layer of gravel or sand on the bottom) with warm water.
Behavior of monitor lizards (waking and sleeping)
The experience of monitor lizards shows that it is more comfortable, calmer and safer to keep several monitor lizards (if you decide on two or three at once) strictly alone, no matter what age and gender they will be. For those who plan to breed predators, it is enough to know that the male and female come together only at the moments of mating, the rest of the time they should live separately from each other due to their difficult nature and behavior corresponding to a dangerous predator
Recall that monitor lizards usually go into hibernation in winter, which is often confused with death or eternal sleep.
If the activity of the lizard has significantly decreased, it seems to have become numb, but continues to show signs of life (breathing, heartbeat and other indicators are present), you can reduce the temperature in the terrarium to 15-18 degrees during the wintering of the reptile.
But the humidity should be maintained at the same level, or at least keep spraying the soil and walls of the pet's home with warm water at least once a week.
As soon as the lizard's torpor is over or you decide to interrupt its sleep, you need to gradually transfer it to the previous conditions of detention (slowly and carefully increase the temperature by adding ultraviolet light, heating the terrarium and the proper diet). Veterinarians advise after such a long winter hibernation, be sure to give the monitor lizard food with additional vitamin E content (the first couple of weeks after waking up).
Wintering of predators stimulates their reproduction processes. And experts mate them precisely after the lizards have come out of hibernation. But if you have a lonely monitor lizard in your pet, and you are not going to acquire a pair for him or nurse tiny monitor lizards, you can not encourage his desire to hibernate at all. If you do not create favorable conditions for your pet for winter sleep, he simply will not fall asleep.
And you won't harm him.
Natural habitat
These reptiles are widely distributed on the African continent. They can be seen in Nigeria, Kenya, Ethiopia and Sudan. Foothills, rocky savannahs, dry forests and semi-desert biotopes are considered the natural habitat of these lizards. They lead a terrestrial lifestyle and are active during the day. The shelter of Cape monitor lizards is often self-dug or ready-made burrows that previously belonged to rodents. Often these reptiles settle in crevices, among stones and at the roots of bushes or trees. Locals often see them near rivers or lakes.
In hot weather, the Cape monitor hides in its shelter, leaving it only after the onset of coolness. This lizard is very attached to its territory and always adheres to the boundaries of its own possessions. The basis of the diet of reptiles living in the wild is carrion. In addition, crayfish, frogs, insects and even small mammals can become their prey. Monitor lizards often climb low trees and lie in wait for their prey there.
Having sated, they lay down to digest the swallowed pieces of food in half-asleep. During this period, the activity of lizards decreases to almost zero.
Description and character traits
The Nile Monitor is the largest representative of the class of reptiles, the monitor lizard family. Its appearance, as well as the design features of the body, make it easy to distinguish this lizard from other members of the family.
Find out who monitor lizards are.
Appearance and dimensions
The Nile monitor is distinguished by a rather large and powerful body, the length of which can reach 2 m, and a unique crest above. The average size of a lizard is about 1.7 m, and 1 m of them is given to the tail, which is flat on both sides.
The body of the reptile is muscular, large, in especially strong representatives it can reach 20 kg. The limbs are short and powerful, well adapted to the aquatic lifestyle.
The claws are long and sharp. With their help, the monitor lizard can perfectly climb trees, dig the ground, tear the victim.
Large expressive eyes on the large head of the lizard, capable of moving simultaneously in different directions. On the muzzle, closer to the eyes, are oval nostrils. The front teeth are very sharp, cone-shaped; rear - blunt, in the form of crowns. The long forked tongue is distinguished by a highly developed olfactory function.
Do you know? Nile monitors were first described by Carl Linnaeus in 1766. The closest relative of this reptile is the steppe monitor lizard Varanus exanthematicus.
The color of the Nile reptile is dark brown / sandy yellow / dark gray / pink (depending on the uniqueness of the species, age, lifestyle, habitat), with beautiful transverse stripes, small spots and speckles.
The top of the body is often a single color (eg olive green) and the underside is yellow with dark stripes. Young individuals have a darker, almost black coloration, diluted with a small amount of yellow spots, specks and patterns.
Distribution
Nile lizards are native to the southern regions of the African continent (in particular, Sudan, Nubia and Egypt). It should be noted that they prefer to settle on the banks of water bodies.
Their favorite place is the banks of the Nile River, hence the name - "reptiles". In the late 90s, lizards began to be massively imported into the states of America, and today representatives of this species can be found in California, Florida, and even on the beaches of Palm Beach.
Monitor lizards live almost everywhere where there are water bodies nearby. They cannot be found in deserts, but can be found in savannahs, tropical forests, near swamps, lakes, and on the outskirts of deserts.
Familiarize yourself with the characteristics of monitor lizards of different species: Komodo, gray Central Asian, giant, water.
Lifestyle and nutrition
Under natural conditions, Nile monitors never go far from bodies of water, rivers or lakes.
They like to spend most of their time in the water.
On the shore, reptiles prefer to lie motionless, calmly sunbathing in the sun. The tops of the rocks are considered to be the favorite resting place for lizards. Reptiles climb trees perfectly, swim superbly, and can be under water without air for almost an hour.
Do you know? When a monitor lizard dives under water, its pulse slows down by 80-85%, and a rapid pulse can lead to death.
Animals are most active during the daytime (before and after lunch). By their nature, they are predators, they hunt small reptiles and mammals, various insects, attack turtles, break nests of crocodiles, eating whole eggs.
In the moment of danger, lizards run away to the water or pretend to be dead. They easily hunt their prey both on land and in water bodies. Young individuals prefer to eat arthropods, adults - crustaceans and mollusks with hard shells.
It should be noted that monitor lizards have excellent resistance to snake venom, so they can eat snakes with pleasure.
At night, lizards hide in burrows that they dig on their own.
The diet of reptiles mainly depends on their habitat and season. During the rainy season, amphibians, crustaceans, mollusks and arthropods become the main prey, and during the dry season - carrion.
Important! Under natural conditions, the Nile monitor can live from 10 to 20 years. The life expectancy of females is less than that of males.
A few words about walking
Some owners regularly walk their monitor lizards. To do this, you need to purchase a correctly sized harness for kittens. Lizards are masters at backing up, so they shouldn't be left unattended outside. Walking with a reptile is desirable in warm weather.
Sunbaths are shown to monitor lizard in summer. But to accustom a lizard, accustomed to artificial ultraviolet, to the real sun should be gradual, so as not to cause burns. At first, you can limit yourself to fifteen-minute walks, gradually increasing the time spent in the fresh air.
Natural habitat
These reptiles are widely distributed on the African continent. They can be seen in Nigeria, Kenya, Ethiopia and Sudan. Foothills, rocky savannahs, dry forests and semi-desert biotopes are considered the natural habitat of these lizards. They lead a terrestrial lifestyle and are active during the day. The shelter of Cape monitor lizards is often self-dug or ready-made burrows that previously belonged to rodents. Often these reptiles settle in crevices, among stones and at the roots of bushes or trees. Locals often see them near rivers or lakes.
In hot weather, the Cape monitor hides in its shelter, leaving it only after the onset of coolness. This lizard is very attached to its territory and always adheres to the boundaries of its own possessions. The basis of the diet of reptiles living in the wild is carrion. In addition, crayfish, frogs, insects and even small mammals can become their prey. Monitor lizards often climb low trees and lie in wait for their prey there.
Having sated, they lay down to digest the swallowed pieces of food in half-asleep. During this period, the activity of lizards decreases to almost zero.
Lifestyle and habitat
The main range of the Cape monitor lizard is the steppes and savannas located south of the Sahara, in the subequatorial belt of Africa. Monitor lizard does not avoid agricultural fields, pastures, bushes and light forests. Cape monitor lizard in photo is a large lizard, usually posing against the background of sand, stones, thorns and tufts of grass.
Juveniles often inhabit farmers' fields. They settle in burrows built by invertebrates, eat their hosts, grow to exterminate all types of insects that are suitable in size. Burrows expand as they grow. They live secretly, during the day they sit in holes, at dusk they begin to catch crickets and grasshoppers.
As they grow older, they seek larger shelters, master burrows dug in abandoned termite mounds by other animals.
Cape monitor lizards can climb trees. They rest and hide in the crown. They catch insects there.
Setting up the terrarium
The container for the lizard to live in should be appropriate for its size. Well, if it is 2 times longer than the body of the reptile. In this case, you can do it in two ways:
- Immediately purchase or glue on your own a terrarium 3-3.5 m long for growth.
- Settle the young monitor lizard in a commensurate cell, taking into account its current parameters. In this case, as it grows, it will have to be moved to larger terrariums.
In any case, the approximate size of the terrarium based on a lizard about 30 cm long should be 60x30x30 cm. It should not be done lower, otherwise the monitor lizard will reach with its paws to the heaters and can rip them off.
As for the soil, it must hold moisture well. There are special mixtures for reptiles, but you can use coconut fibers or sphagnum. Some sources recommend pouring a fairly thick layer of soil so that the reptile can dig a hole for itself and live in conditions as close to its natural environment as possible.
You can do without this by placing small shelters so that at first the pet feels protected. Later, when he gets used to the new place, the "houses" can be removed - they will no longer be needed.
For convenience and creating an interesting interior, driftwood and branches can be placed in the terrarium. If decorative elements found in a forest or a river are used, they must be washed well without the use of detergents and calcined in the oven. If the soil is mixed with ordinary sand, the latter is also washed in running water several times, then heated on a pallet or pan, and only after cooling is used for its intended purpose.
Keeping a Cape monitor requires the purchase of special equipment. Your pet will need:
- Ultraviolet and infrared lamps for overhead heating.
- Warm mat or heating cord for bottom heating of one half of the terrarium. The container should have zones with different temperature conditions so that the monitor lizard can move at will from warm to cool.
- Wall-mounted thermometer for monitoring heating.
- Water tank. Reptiles like to take baths, lying with their whole body in the water. In addition, their natural reflexes suggest defecation into water, so a container with it will protect the soil from waste products. Thanks to this feature, it is very easy to accustom a monitor lizard to the toilet - he himself will use a tray with water for his needs. If you wear a monitor lizard every morning for 10-15 minutes in a bath with water at room temperature, then you can generally get rid of the need to remove feces from the terrarium tank.
- Stone or wooden house, shelter. You can also cover the floor with an artificial rug that imitates grass.
The temperature regime is mandatory - poorly heated air and the floor cause problems with digestion. Half of the bottom of the terrarium should warm up to +40 °C during the day, while the daytime air temperature is at least +28 °C. At night, heating can be turned off, but at the same time it is necessary to ensure that the temperature mark does not fall below +20 ° C, especially if the apartment is cold.
In this case, night heating is best left. It is safer for the health of the Cape monitor lizard than the lack of heat.
Soil
Many sources recommend keeping the monitor lizard on a thick layer of earth. Ideally, if the monitor lizard can dig a hole for himself there according to his size. The presence of shelter will allow him to feel relatively safe. Monitor lizards can also be kept on the processed and flat bark of trees with the addition of sphagnum, which will maintain the desired level of humidity.
Daily spraying of sphagnum in the terrarium is desirable. Be sure to have a bathing suit of such a size that the monitor lizard fits completely into it. Almost all monitor lizards relieve themselves in a pond, so it is necessary to monitor the purity of the water every day. you can bathe capiccha in a bath with water at room temperature.
What to feed a reptile?
Many inexperienced owners make gross mistakes when preparing their pet's diet. This often results in the death of the lizard.
Those who care about their monitor lizard (Cape) should approach issues related to its nutrition with the utmost responsibility. The basis of the diet of a tamed reptile should be slugs, snails, cockroaches, earthworms, locusts and crickets. Occasionally, you can pamper your pet with chicken, lean fish, mice, or frogs.
In addition, it is desirable to add fortified top dressings, in which calcium is present, to the main menu. Growing reptiles need to be fed small meals several times a day. Adults need to be fed two to three times a week. Otherwise, they may become obese.
Captive briefing
Spacious
terrarium or room required as monitor lizards need to move and climb a lot.
Temperature
in a heating zone up to 35 °C, under a lamp it can reach up to 40 °C, in a cold corner up to 22-24 °C. Night temperature - 22-24 ° C.
UV irradiation desirable (special lamps for desert reptiles or sunlight if available).
One or more shelters
must also be placed in the cool area.
Cape monitor lizards live in arid areas, but love to swim. Therefore swimming pool is required
with clean water, in which they will bathe and defecate there.
Suitable substrate for
is specially treated sand, coconut/wood chips or sphagnum. Artificial rugs are suitable only for temporary maintenance.
Feeding
In captivity, the Cape Monitor readily eats rodents, birds, as well as meat, eggs and many other animal products. But a large proportion of such feed in the diet quickly leads to obesity, liver and kidney disease. Obesity is the main problem of "domestic" Cape monitor lizards. The tendency to obesity is most likely associated with the peculiarities of seasonal activity. In nature, many monitor lizards try to eat as much as possible during active periods and are able to quickly accumulate fat reserves for the subsequent rest period
This is especially important for females, in which during hibernation most of the accumulated fat goes to the development of eggs.
Cape monitor lizards are inactive in nature for six months
In addition, monitor lizards often travel long distances in search of food. In captivity, the situation is different: a healthy Cape monitor lizard has a good appetite, and at the same time monitor lizards of this species are quite phlegmatic and can lie in a terrarium all day, basking under a lamp, saving energy. As a result, in a terrarium with regular feeding of relatively fatty foods (rodents, meat, canned food for dogs and cats), a sedentary lifestyle and the inability to use up body fat during hibernation, obesity is almost inevitable.
Most captive care guides for Cape monitor lizards recommend a rodent diet. However, since they rarely eat rodents in the wild, and since these monitors are clearly adapted to feeding on other prey, captive steppe monitors should be fed orthoptera and other invertebrates sprinkled with vitamin and mineral supplements, if only in addition to rodents. For the Cape monitor lizard in captivity, as in nature, a variety of invertebrates can be food: fodder insects (crickets, cockroaches, locusts, bronze larvae, zophobas and flour worm), snails.
You can include seafood in the diet - mussels, shrimp. You should not completely refuse to give food vertebrates - they are a valuable source of calcium (found in the bones of vertebrates) and other important elements. Food frogs are suitable for these purposes. Willingly eat monitor lizards and fish (preferably small, low-fat sea or river fish as a whole). Raw quail and boiled chicken eggs are given occasionally. When feeding rodents, it is better if the length of the body of a rodent without a tail does not exceed the width of the monitor lizard's head. Live rodents must be given under supervision to exclude the possibility of injury to the monitor lizard.
Temperament
This type of monitor lizard can be tamed quite well, but some individuals can be aggressive. Not tame or frightened monitor lizard turns sideways to the "aggressor", swells, bends the tail to the opposite side of the body, bringing it to strike. When the aggressor approaches at a sufficiently close distance, there is a high probability of a bite (which does not pose a serious danger to a person, with the exception of the possible infection).
Feeding the Cape monitor
Monitor lizards are predators by nature. And they spend most of their time looking for food. The pet must be active and slender. But laziness and constant access to food leads to rapid obesity. It is worth paying great attention to the diet, since the process of weight gain for these animals is almost irreversible.
Even if you put him on a diet, he will not be able to lose weight like mammals.
All internal organs of the animal are covered fat. The heart of monitor lizards is quite small compared to their entire body. Burdening your movement with weight, there is a big load on the pet's heart. The circulatory system is not able to withstand such loads, which leads to rupture of blood vessels. The blood forms a rhombus and is able to get anywhere in the body of the animal, including the lungs. The outcome of such an incident is always fatal.
The Cape monitor lizard must not be overfed as its colon is very thin.
And sometimes in a situation where the pet is obese, in addition to receiving a large portion of food, intestinal rupture can occur.
Choice of diet
Diet of animals should include:
- Insects.
- Rodents.
- Meat.
- Complementary food with vitamins.
The pet's menu may also include mice, rats, shrimp, eggs, and pieces of boiled chicken meat without fat. They also eat rabbit meat, beef and offal.
Do not give fatty foods such as pork or lard. Also, eggs should not be given often, as for the Cape monitor lizard they put a heavy burden on the liver, and eggs also contain cholesterol.
Babies up to 3-4 months old can be fed once or twice a day. Light food up to 9-10 months of age is given every other day. You can alternate feeding insects with meat.
Animals older than 1 year are fed once a week.
It is advisable to protect the pet from feeding on food caught in the street.
Frogs, toads and snails very often have helminths in their intestines, eating such food, the monitor lizard can get serious poisoning, as well as infection with worms.
Do not forget about feeding the animal with vitamins. These reptiles need calcium for good development.
Breeding
The breeding season of Cape monitor lizards, like the feasting season, is the rainy season. When a male finds a suitable female, he tirelessly follows her, sometimes biting or scratching her neck and legs with claws. In the end, the female gives the go-ahead for mating.
Female steppe monitors dig nests and usually lay 20 to 50 eggs. Other sources say that females dig nests, 15-30 cm deep, and lay no more than 15 eggs. Some females lay their eggs in abandoned termite mounds. Egg incubation takes five to six months. As a rule, offspring hatch in March. The highest growth rate of young Cape monitor lizard is observed during the first two months of life.
Significance to humans
Man hunts Cape monitor lizard primarily for meat and skins, but also for the animal trade.
Between 1970 and 1990 the most widespread was the trade in skins. However, in recent years the trade in skins seems to have declined and the trade in live animals has increased significantly. Young animals under the age of 6 months are the main target for sale as pets, as they are cheaper to transport and easier to sell than larger animals.
Although there is no evidence that the trade in live African monitor lizards is having a detrimental effect on wild populations, there is concern that heavy harvesting in small areas will lead to their local extinction.
Nutrition
One of the most important things in keeping a monitor lizard is the right diet. Monitor lizards are ready to eat all the time. But since in apartment conditions their physical activity is much lower than in natural conditions, it is impossible to overfeed lizards. Excess weight leads to metabolic disorders, the liver and kidneys suffer. The basis of nutrition is products containing a large number of essential amino acids - meat and fish, large insects, rodents, snails, eggs.
You can feed the lizard canned cat food. Meals should be as varied as possible, but the portion should be strictly limited.
Appearance and dimensions
In the world of monitor lizards, Cape or, as they are also called, steppe monitors, are of medium size. In most cases, the body length of adults does not exceed 1 m with a weight of 36–40 kg, but sometimes there are large specimens up to 130 cm. We are talking about males, which always prevail over females in size. It is characteristic that in captivity they reach a much larger size than in the wild. Experts explain this fact by the absence of forced starvation and the balance of the pet's diet.
Based on the natural habitats of the Cape monitor lizards, some herpetologists distinguish 5 subspecies of them, which differ from each other in external signs. Most taxonomists recognize such a classification as inaccurate, leaning towards the integrity of the species. Researchers argue that for all steppe lizards, common features are: a wide head; long forked tongue; dense physique; small scaly cover on the whole body; short tail and neck; toothed comb at the end of the tail; short muzzle; resembling narrow slits, obliquely set nostrils, located very close to the eyes.
Depending on the variety of the steppe lizard, the number of scales on its belly can vary from 60 to 160 pieces; the color is also different. The most common individuals are gray-brown in color with yellow round spots arranged in a row on the back; usually they are edged with dark tones of the main color. And on the tail of the Cape monitor lizard there are yellow-brown rings. From below, his body, like the internal parts of all limbs, is highlighted in a light color.
Monitor lizards are characterized by excessively long claws on short fingers and powerful jaws; all representatives of this family have very developed jaw muscles
Experts draw the attention of breeders to the fact that in adults the teeth are characterized by extended crowns and bluntness, while in young ones, on the contrary, they are pointed and conical. Because of the beautiful skin, Cape monitor lizards have always aroused great interest among people
The peak of trade in this raw material was recorded in the 70-80s of the twentieth century.
Therefore, in some areas of their range, reptiles were included in the list of animals that are threatened by local extinction.
Description and features
Steppe or Cape monitor lizards are large reptiles with a strong physique. The length of an adult is 1 meter. Sometimes they grow up to 1.3 meters. In zoos, when kept at home, thanks to regular nutrition, they can reach sizes exceeding 1.5 meters.
Males are slightly larger than females. External gender differences are not noticeable. The behavior of males and females is different. Males are more active and females are more secretive. Behavioral observation is one way to determine the sex of a Cape monitor.
The monitor lizard has a large head. Most of it is occupied by a mouth with well-developed, strong jaws. Teeth are attached to the bones of the jaws. They grow back if they break or fall out. The posterior incisors are widened and blunted. The maxillary-dental apparatus is adapted for cracking shells, crushing the protective covers of insects.
Tongue long, forked. Used to recognize odors. The eyes are round. Closed with movable eyelids. Located on the sides of the elongated head. Near the eyes are the ear canals. They are connected to the sensor.
Simplified sound wave perception mechanism. Monitor lizards do not hear very well. The frequency of perceived vibrations lies in the range from 400 to 8000 Hz.
The legs of the lizard are short and strong. Adapted to fast moving and digging. The tail is flattened on both sides, with a double dorsal crest. Serves as a defensive weapon. The whole body is covered with scales of medium size. Body color brown. The hue depends on the color of the soil, which prevails in the reptile's habitat.
Enemies in the wild
To survive in the wild, monitor lizards use their sharp claws, strong teeth, powerful tails, and extreme agility. It is only at first glance that a large lizard seems clumsy - in fact, if necessary, it can quickly run, swim and climb vertical surfaces with lightning speed.
Thanks to this set of qualities, the predator is afraid of few people in its range, although it spends most of its life in a hole. These are solitary animals that are not even friendly with their fellows, because they consider them as competitors in the extraction of food. At the meeting of reptiles, a fight is sure to occur, accompanied by hissing, whipping of tails and swelling of the stomachs. In this case, the victory will go to the strongest. It is possible that the victim will be immediately eaten. In relation to other representatives of the fauna, these reptiles are most vulnerable to crocodiles, as they hunt their eggs.
Monitor lizards can also be attacked by large birds of prey and snakes. But they are more interested in young lizards. Forced to fight, Cape monitor lizards fight back with their tails and bite. Their bite is deadly because of the many bacteria that develop on food leftovers in the owner's mouth; while the resulting pathogenic microflora does not threaten his health at all.
And for humans and other animals, such a wound can result in blood poisoning and death. It is believed that reptiles later find their prey by smell. Did you know? When meeting with a strong opponent who does not retreat with a threatening hiss and waving of the tail, the Cape monitor lizard can pretend to be dead.
Taming
Cape monitor lizard has a fairly high intelligence, so it is very easy and quick to socialize. It will not be difficult for the owner to control the predictable behavior of his pet. Aggressive stances and tail strikes should be as philosophical as possible, not allowing the reptile to assume a dominant position. The baby may at first hiss around your hand with the outstretched food
It is very important to be as patient as possible and over time he will get used to taking food. If he managed to bite you, then you should not hurt, but noticeably click on his nose
The kid will quickly remember this lesson and think carefully next time whether to show aggression.
What to feed a reptile?
Many inexperienced owners make gross mistakes when preparing their pet's diet. This often results in the death of the lizard. Those who care about their monitor lizard (Cape) should approach issues related to its nutrition with the utmost responsibility. The basis of the diet of a tamed reptile should be slugs, snails, cockroaches, earthworms, locusts and crickets. Occasionally, you can pamper your pet with chicken, lean fish, mice, or frogs.
In addition, it is desirable to add fortified supplements with calcium to the main menu. Growing reptiles need to be fed small meals several times a day. Adults need to be fed two to three times a week. Otherwise, they may become obese.
How to choose a Cape monitor lizard?
For better and faster adaptation, it is better to acquire a young specimen. The best time for such a purchase is at the end of summer and autumn.
When choosing a future pet, it is necessary to pay special attention to the appearance and behavior of the individual you like.
The reptile must be active and curious
Once in its native terrarium, the lizard must be interested in the food lying there. In human hands, a healthy lizard will make active attempts to free itself.
Before buying, it is advisable to inspect the mouth, nostrils and eyes of the reptile. A well-developed healthy Cape monitor has a clean mouth cavity of a light lilac-pink hue. Red or gray color indicates the possible presence of diseases. It is perfectly normal if the lizard starts hissing. This is considered a sign of discontent. Among other things, it is recommended to carefully examine the claws and fingers of the reptile. They should not have any visible damage or defects.
Baby Cape monitor lizard won't eat what to do. Cape monitor lizard or steppe monitor lizard (lat
The Cape monitor lizard is the most suitable species for keeping at home. He is the most sociable, easier to tame than other monitor lizards. Very few terrarium keepers know the important aspects of caring for pet dinosaurs.
The range of the Cape monitor lizard is West Africa (Sudan and the Republic of the Congo). It is a tropical and semi-tropical region with a variable climate. It can be both dry and wet, especially when it becomes very rainy in their habitats. The level of activity of Cape monitor lizards directly depends on the season. So, for example, at high humidity monitor lizards are especially active, while in the dry season there is no food and they practically do not consume it. The conditions that must be created in the terrarium directly depend on these climate features.
The Cape monitor lizard is a terrestrial reptile, so a horizontal terrarium is suitable for it.
The length of the terrarium should ideally be one and a half to two monitor lizard lengths; On average, an adult individual reaches 120-130 cm. Please note that the monitor lizard, standing on its hind legs, should not reach the lamps, as they can rip them off. The terrarium must have a 10.
0 UV lamp, as well as a heating lamp. There should be a place where the monitor lizard will get the opportunity to warm up the body to 40C (!!!) and a shaded cooler corner. A high heating temperature is very important for monitor lizards to prevent the development of gout. The night temperature should not fall below 24C.
Primer
Many sources recommend keeping the monitor lizard on a thick layer of earth. Ideally, if the monitor lizard can dig a hole for himself there according to his size. The presence of shelter will allow him to feel relatively safe. Monitor lizards can also be kept on the processed and flat bark of trees with the addition of sphagnum, which will maintain the desired level of humidity.
Daily spraying of sphagnum in a terrarium is desirable. Be sure to have a bathing suit of such a size that the monitor lizard fits completely into it. Almost all monitor lizards relieve themselves in a pond, so it is necessary to monitor the purity of the water every day.
you can bathe capiccha in a bath with water at room temperature.
Required humidity
About that. we figured out what needs to be maintained to maintain a certain humidity in the terrarium. Now an equally important question is how to feed your monitor lizard in a variety of ways?
Due to the fact that many owners do not warm up their monitor lizards, and also give them monotonous food - most often only rodents, we have a sad picture - obese and dehydrated Cape monitor lizards, usually very lethargic, and, unfortunately, short-lived .
Cape monitors feeding
In nature, Cape monitor lizards prey mainly on invertebrates, and therefore its diet consists almost exclusively of large insects and snails found during the day while it hunts.
The food base of monitor lizards is very diverse: various types of cockroaches, locusts, all types of crickets, mollusks, squids, octopuses, mussels, snails, mice, rats.
Toddlers are fed every other day, adolescents three times a week, adults once a week or one and a half.
Much depends on the type and size of the food object. Adult monitor lizards can be given large cockroaches, locusts, large snails plus seafood. The number of rodents must be kept to a minimum, as this is a very heavy food and the monitor lizard will not live on it for a long time. You can offer monitor lizards chicken hearts - they are practically fat-free. At the same time, those monitor lizards that are on an insectivorous diet should also receive calcium without fail.
Subject to all conditions, competent socialization and quality care, you will get a healthy, contact, active and interested in life pet as a pet.
The Cape monitor lizard is also called the Bosca monitor lizard or the steppe monitor lizard (lat.Varanus exanthematicus) is a species of reptile from the monitor lizard family. This name of this species is erroneous, since this animal does not live in the Cape Mountains, but since it was first brought to Europe and described from South Africa, this name has stuck with it to this day.
Subspecies of this lizard are not distinguished. However, some herpetologists in their works describe 4 subspecies based on their habitat, but almost all taxonomists recognized them as invalid, and the species is considered integral.
These animals in adult form have a body length with a tail of 80 - 110 cm and up to 2 meters. Their body is atypical for monitor lizards, as it is rather overweight, but it fully corresponds to the life activity that the animal leads. That is, it is aimed at the endurance of the body and saving vital energy, and not at climbing trees and diving in water.
Cape monitor lizards have a short body and muzzle, it has obliquely set nostrils, shaped like slits, located very close to the eyes. These animals have short fingers with very large claws. The body of the lizard is covered with small scales, the tail is laterally compressed and has a double crest on the upper edge. The color of these reptiles has a gray-brown gamut with yellow stripes and spots.
The lower side of the body of the monitor lizard is lighter than the back, the throat is yellowish-white, and brown and yellow rings are pronounced on the tail.
Distribution
Cape monitor lizards are distributed in field zones from west to east in central Africa, in Benin, Burkina Faso, Cameroon, Central African Republic, Chad, Democratic Republic of the Congo (Zaire), Eritrea, Ethiopia, Gambia, Ganoya, Guinea, Guinea Bissau, Elephant Coast Bones, Kenya, Liberia, Mali, Nigeria, Nigeria, Senegal, Sierra Leone, Sudan, Togo and Uganda.
Life in nature
In nature, Cape monitor lizards live in savanna and semi-desert biotopes, dry forests, rocky savannahs, arid scrubs (bushes) and foothills. This lizard leads a terrestrial lifestyle, showing diurnal activity. As a shelter, reptiles dig holes on their own, or using ready-made ones that belonged to rodents. Monitor lizards also settle among piles of stones, crevices and at the roots of trees and bushes.
When an aggressor appears next to him, the Cape monitor lizard turns sideways to him, swells up, bends the tail to the opposite side of the body and brings it to strike. If, when danger arises, the lizard cannot hide anywhere and thereby escape, it clings to the stones so strongly that it is almost impossible to tear it off.
With the onset of the hot time of the day, the animals hide in their shelters and come out from there only with the onset of coolness. Cape monitor lizards can climb low on trees and shrubs, where, hiding in a zone of relative ventilation, they can lie in wait for their prey.
This animal species is very territorial and therefore always adheres to the boundaries of its territory.
In the wild, the lizard's diet consists mainly of carrion. They also hunt, preying on small mammals, insects, frogs, crayfish and the like. Varan eats everything: from internal organs to bones. He does not chew food, but bites off large pieces of it and swallows it.
After the animal has eaten, it lies down half asleep to digest what it has eaten, at this moment the activity of the animal is reduced and it is relaxed. Monitor lizards show any kind of activity only when they are in danger or they are hungry.
This reptile is often found near rivers and lakes and, therefore, local natives consider them sacred animals and believe that the death of these animals will lead to a decrease in the amount of water.
Life in a terrarium
Before you get a Cape monitor lizard in an apartment as a pet, you should understand that this will require both material and time costs from you, as future owners.
Cape monitor lizards require a horizontal terrarium for Palearctic animals. The dimensions of such a terrarium should be 120 cm long and 60 cm wide per animal. and a height of 50 cm. A certain temperature must be maintained in it, this can be achieved by using a thermal stone, thermal mat or using an incandescent lamp.
In the place where the heater is located, the temperature during the day should be up to +32 degrees, at night +25 degrees, where it is not, +28 during the day, and +20 degrees at night. In the area where a high temperature regime is maintained, there should be a large stone, branch or shelf, since the monitor lizard needs to warm up well, stretching out with its whole body on a hill. These animals will feel much more comfortable if they have a shelter in the terrarium, such as a stone strong grotto, a shelf, all kinds of houses and the like. As a filler, it is best to use an artificial turf with a pile height of 2 mm. You can also pour coarse gravel or sand on the bottom. The monitor lizard in the terrarium should have a small pool (reservoir), of such size that the lizard could fit there and a drinking bowl from which the animal will drink. Every day the terrarium should be sprayed with fresh, warm, not stagnant water.
In addition to the usual incandescent and illuminated lamps, a monitor lizard must have an ultraviolet lamp from ReptiGlo with a spectrum of 8.
0 or 10.0 radiation units in the new house. They should burn the animal for 12 hours every day. The Cape monitor lizard during its active daylight hours and the temperature in the terrarium should be 12 hours a day.
These lizards are full-fledged predators. In their natural habitat, during a period of drought, they cannot receive enough food and therefore gorge themselves on it “in reserve”. This explains their tendency to obesity.
Feeding these reptiles at home should be varied and nutritious. They need to be given invertebrates (insects, spiders, molluscs) and vertebrates (small mammals, birds, eggs, reptiles) animals. Young Cape monitor lizards are fed crickets, cockroaches, zoophobuses, earthworms, pebbles, and later monthly mice. In adult lizards, their diet should include mice, rats, hamsters, chickens, eggs, frogs, and fish.
Monitor lizards don't care about live food or not, so they can be given meat (but not fatty) and offal, but they should not be abused in any case, since reptiles must eat the whole animal, that is, with bones, skin and internal organs.
Only before giving the monitor lizard frozen food or food from the refrigerator, it must first be thawed and warmed up, since cold food causes severe indigestion in animals.
The frequency of feeding monitor lizards should be at least once every two days, and preferably daily, but do not forget about the tendency of animals to obesity and, therefore, if the reptile begins to get fat, then it is necessary to reduce the amount of food given.
It is also necessary to give the monitor lizard vitamin and mineral supplements such as Repti Life and Repti Cal.
The lizard must have water constantly and change it regularly, but at least once a day. Warm water should always be poured into the drinker, without signs of stagnation and spoilage.
Always remember that half of a monitor lizard's health comes from keeping it, and the rest from feeding it. Therefore, healthy food is a healthy monitor lizard.
Physiology
In Cape monitor lizards, there is no difference in color between male and female, so it is impossible to determine who is in front of you.
In males, compared to females, the tail is slightly thicker at the base, however, this is not very well visualized due to the overall thickness of the tail as such. An accurate determination of the sex of an animal is possible only when setting up the method - sex - test.
Lizards become sexually mature at the age of 3-4, having reached the size of an adult animal.
The breeding season, like that of other monitor lizards, falls on the wet season, that is, the rainy season and is a time of increased aggressiveness. Males constantly pursue females, often preventing them from eating normally. When they catch up with their partners, they grab them with their teeth in the neck area and, holding them, insert their hemipenises into them. The copulation process lasts approximately 15 minutes. After that, the female lays eggs after 45 - 65 days. To do this, she digs a hole under them in the sand or earth about 10 cm deep in a humid, but not damp place. The number of eggs in a clutch ranges from 25 to 30 pieces, but sometimes it can reach up to 40.
After 170 - 180 days, small monitor lizards are born from them. They are fully formed and ready for independent life. They begin to feed from the moment they finish the assimilation of the yolk reserve.
Facts
1. When kept at home, Cape monitor lizards are quite aggressive.
2. When a monitor lizard bites a person, the wound itself is not as dangerous as the occurrence of severe inflammation up to sepsis, since pathogenic microorganisms are abundant in the oral cavity of lizards.
3. Listed in Annexes I and II of the Convention on International Trade in Wild Animals (CITES).
4. Most exports of the Cape Monitor come from Ghana, Kenya, Togo and Tanzania.
5. Cape monitor lizards can defend themselves by firing feces at the enemy.
Health to you and your pets!
Cape monitors can be found in field areas throughout west to east central Africa, in Benin, Burkina Faso, Cameroon, Central African Republic, Chad, Democratic Republic of the Congo (Zaire), Eritrea, Ethiopia, Gambia, Ghana, Guinea, Guinea Bissau, Ivory Coast, Kenya, Liberia, Mali, Niger, Nigeria, Senegal, Sierra Leone, Sudan, Togo, and Uganda.
White-throated monitors have been found as far east and south as Angola, Botswana, Kenya, Mozambique, Namibia, South Africa, the South Democratic Republic of the Congo (Zaire), South Ethiopia, South Somalia, Swaziland, Tanzania, Uganda, Zambia, and Zimbabwe.
Size
Adults reach a total length of 90 cm to 1.5 m, according to some reports up to 2 meters. In captivity, Capes can be larger than their wild counterparts due to the greater availability and regularity of food: there are no forced starvations due to long periods of drought, which can last from 3 to 6 months depending on the habitat. The babies have a total length of approx. 13 cm.
Lifespan
In captivity for 10 years or more when properly managed.
Temperament
Can be quite aggressive. Not tame or frightened monitor lizard turns sideways to the "aggressor", swells, bends the tail to the opposite side of the body, bringing it to strike. When the aggressor approaches at a fairly close distance, there is a high probability of a bite (which does not pose a serious danger to a person, except for the possible infection).
This type of monitor lizard is quite well tamed, but by themselves they are not very sociable.
Summary of captivity
A spacious terrarium or room is needed as monitor lizards love to roam and climb.
The temperature in the heating zone is up to 35 °C, under the lamp it can reach up to 40 °C, in cold places up to 22-24 °C. Night 22-24 °С. UV irradiation required (special lamps for desert reptiles or sunlight if possible)
You also need to put a shelter in a cool area.
Cape monitor lizards live in arid areas, but love to swim, so a pool of clean water is needed in which to bathe and defecate. On this occasion, you can put two pools, if there is space.
Specially treated sand or synthetic mats are suitable as a substrate.
Feeding: crickets, locusts, mice, hamsters, rats, fish, chickens, eggs. You can give meat. Fatty foods are very harmful. Whole food always. Pieces of meat, entrails, etc. - occasionally. Give rodents under supervision and no larger than the head of a monitor lizard (especially rats and hamsters).
A healthy monitor lizard will eat as much as it likes. You also need to add mineral and vitamin supplements for reptiles.
Links
- Website about the Cape monitor lizard, forum (Russian)
- Savannah Monitors
Wikimedia Foundation . 2010 .
- Cape Daman
- Cape Chamomile
See what the "Cape monitor lizard" is in other dictionaries:
Bosca monitor
Steppe monitor lizard - ? Steppe monitor lizard Scientific classification Kingdom: Animals Type: Chordates Class ... Wikipedia
The Cape Monitor (Varanus exanthematicus) is a scaly reptile and is a large land lizard. This species is considered the most popular in home terrariums due to its cheerful and positive nature, as well as the ability to train and quickly get used to the owner's hands. However, many reptile lovers do not know all the nuances of keeping them, so the pet often suffers from unbalanced food and insufficient heating.
Cape monitor lizard, a large terrestrial reptile lizard
General description of the species
Monitor lizards of this species reach a body length of 1.5 to 2 m (including the tail). Under natural conditions, they rarely grow up to 1.5 meters due to lack of food, drought and other adverse factors that can be excluded when kept at home.
The reptile has a relatively short and stocky body , covered with brownish scaly skin with lighter spots and stripes. The belly of the monitor lizard is slightly lighter - yellowish or grayish with the same markings, but not as pronounced as on the back. Paws are equipped with tenacious long fingers with sharp claws.
The head of the reptile is relatively short compared to the body, the slit-like nostrils are set at an angle. The tail of the reptile is compressed from the sides, on its upper side there is a double crest.
The natural distribution area of these lizards is the subtropical and tropical zone, including the countries of the African continent (Nigeria, Sudan, Congo, Kenya).
Monitor lizards prefer to settle in rocky areas, foothills, dry savannahs and forests. They are very active during the day, but at night they hide in burrows that they dig themselves or occupy ready-made shelters for rodents. Sometimes they settle in natural crevices of rocks, under the roots of trees or shrubs.
Cape monitor lizard is diurnal and burrows at nightTerrestrial lizard is a terrestrial lizard, although many specimens like to take long baths lying in warm water. In addition, while tracking prey, they are able to climb small trees. When the heat is very strong, the Cape monitor lizard hides in a hole , getting out of there only in the evening, when the temperature drops significantly. The peculiarities of this reptile include territorial attachment - it almost never leaves the boundaries of its site.
In biotopes inhabited by monitor lizards, their natural diet is based mainly on carrion, but since these are predatory reptiles, they are not averse to hunting for insects, amphibians, crustaceans and even small rodents.
After being satiated, they look for a quiet place to sleep and peacefully digest their food. If the prey was large enough, then the monitor lizard may not feel hungry for a week and a half, after which it goes back to fishing.
Those who prefer exotic pets to ordinary cats and dogs will love the monitor lizard. This is a very peaceful reptile with a calm and interesting character, quite easy to educate. However, all these qualities will be manifested only in the case of the purchase of a cub born in captivity. Domesticated wild individuals can be dangerous and will be very difficult to tame.
Buying a pet
Cape monitor lizards breed in the spring months, so buying a young reptile is best between summer and autumn. The younger the pet is, the easier it is for a novice breeder to find a common language with him and make friends. When purchasing a lizard, it is necessary to take into account all the nuances of such a transaction:
Having familiarized yourself with the rules for choosing a monitor lizard, it is worth starting to design a home for a new pet.
Terrarium setup
The container for the lizard to settle in must be appropriate for its size. Well, if it is 2 times longer than the body of the reptile. There are two ways to do this:
In any case, the approximate size of the terrarium based on a lizard about 30 cm long should be 60x30x30 cm. It should not be done below, otherwise the monitor lizard will reach the heaters with its paws and can rip them off.
As for the soil, it must hold moisture well. There are special mixtures for reptiles, but you can use coconut fibers or sphagnum. Some sources recommend pouring a fairly thick layer of soil so that the reptile can dig a hole for itself and live in conditions as close to its natural environment as possible. You can do without this by placing small shelters so that at first the pet feels protected. Later, when he gets used to the new place, the "houses" can be removed - they will no longer be needed.
For convenience and creating an interesting interior, driftwood and branches can be placed in the terrarium.
If decorative elements found in a forest or a river are used, they must be washed well without the use of detergents and calcined in the oven. If the soil is mixed with ordinary sand, the latter is also washed in running water several times, then heated on a pallet or pan, and only after cooling is used for its intended purpose.
Humidity should always be maintained at a high level. If the monitor lizard drinks a lot, then it does not have enough moisture, so you need to spray the soil more often with a spray bottle and reduce ventilation.
Cape monitor temperature control requiredTemperature control required - poorly heated air and floor cause digestive problems. Half of the bottom of the terrarium should warm up to +40 °C during the day, while the daytime air temperature is at least +28 °C. At night, heating can be turned off, but at the same time it is necessary to ensure that the temperature mark does not fall below +20 ° C, especially if the apartment is cold.
In this case, night heating is best left. It is safer for the health of the Cape monitor lizard than the lack of heat.
Feeding Rules
In the wild, monitor lizard eats almost all day, but in small portions, as it finds food periodically. Related to this is the tendency of the reptile to gluttony - it instinctively has the need to eat as much as possible while food is freely available. Therefore, it is necessary to feed monitor lizards in a dosed manner.
Monitor lizard is prone to gluttony, it should not be overfedSmall individuals are given small insects several times a day. The older and larger the lizard becomes, the less often and more plentifully the meal should be. Adult monitor lizards are fed 2-3 times a week. As for the diet, it includes the following components:
- Insects - crickets, grasshoppers, locusts, cockroaches.
- Amphibians and crustaceans. This includes frogs of various sizes and crustaceans.
- Seafood - various shellfish, shrimp, squid, octopus, mussels, lean fish.
- Vitamin supplements for reptiles and calcium.
- Rats and mice. This type of food is categorically not recommended for permanent consumption. Rodents are a very heavy and high-calorie component of the diet, so you can give them no more than once a month.
Adult monitor lizards are fed 2-3 times a weekThe more varied the diet, the better. Sometimes it is recommended to include lean poultry meat with meat and bone or fish meal in the diet, but also without fanaticism. Overfeeding always threatens with obesity, health problems and low life expectancy. In nature, these reptiles can live up to 20-30 years. At home, Cape monitor lizards rarely live up to 10.
Behavioral features
Due to the high level of intelligence, the young monitor lizard relatively quickly adapts to new living conditions. At first, he can show character and show aggression in the form of stances, hisses and attempts to bite the owner. However, you need to confidently dominate so that the pet understands the hierarchical relationships in the new home.
A monitor lizard can be taught to feed from hands, however, at first he will not only not eat, but will also bypass the hand with food, hissing and trying to bite. After a bite for educational purposes, you can lightly flick it on the nose.
The Cape monitor lizard can be tamed and trained, but it takes time.The training of any animal requires great patience and calm perseverance. Very soon, the baby will learn obedience and stop showing aggression.
Monitor lizards can and should be walked outside. They will benefit from sunbathing and fresh air. Walking time should be gradually increased, accustoming the animal to new sensations. A young monitor lizard can easily run away from its owner, so it is recommended to use a special walking harness, choosing a model for a kitten or a small dog. On the street, you need to carefully monitor the lizard, otherwise, even on a leash, it can climb where it should not.
Sunbathing should be started from five minutes, gradually increasing the time, as a reptile accustomed to a lamp can get sunburned.
To begin with, I never thought that the Cape monitor lizard would become my pet. The child wanted a pet, aquarium fish quickly became boring to him (they can’t be picked up), and my child and I are allergic to cats ((. My husband researched the forums for a long time and delivered a verdict: we need a monitor lizard! What else, in FIG, is a monitor lizard "!? I was against it. Especially on the video that was on the net, this animal looked like a real predator, and even resembled a snake. No fur, no "nice" muzzle... it doesn't even make any sounds!
But my husband silently brought it to our house last summer. Bought from a major pet store. They named it Stig (those who watched the program "Top Gear" remember the mysterious racer in a helmet, we named the monitor lizard after him). After all, the sex of a monitor lizard is very difficult to determine by eye. I had to go to the Zoo, to the herpetologist, to find out who we have. I immediately stated that my husband brought the boy (because the first thing when I picked him up, he crawled into my neckline and hissed when I began to pull him out)).
Yes. The doctor confirmed. We have a boy!
Varan was first settled in a purchased terrarium, and a few months later, the husband himself made a more comfortable and spacious terrarium out of two bookshelves, since the "comrade" can grow up to 2m (now he is a year old - 60 cm). With lighting and maintaining the temperature is also a separate song. After all, the African animal loves warmth! The terrarium has a thermal terrarium lamp + UV lamp. Eats live food (we started with crickets - but that was another test, they squeal!). Then we switched to locusts, mice (live or frozen), sea cocktail, Madagascar cockroaches - this joy is sold in large Pet stores.
Only uses water to go to the toilet. He always has a tray with fresh (warm boiled water) in his terrarium, he drinks it, and when necessary, he relieves himself there, so you need to clean up after him in time. But he does his business every 1-2 days and always at the same time (after eating), so it’s not difficult to teach him to do it at a time convenient for you.
Loves to bathe in the bathtub, is an excellent swimmer, can sit under running water for hours.
A very calm animal, sometimes we let it out for a walk around the apartment. Sleeps a lot. It happens that a child will take it, like squeezing a cat, but he is silent, does not even bite, although he only swallows live food. So it's safe for people. Such yellow chicken eyes look at you, taste the air around them with a long tongue, wrap their tail around your arm ... And you think, but he is a good pet, a cape monitor lizard, such a touching one!
If you are ready for a long exotic in your house and you are not horrified by everything I have written, then feel free to take a Cape lizard, it will become a devoted friend!
Stigu 1g 4m (75cm and 700gr):
Recently had surgery on his paw, managed to lie down in a veterinary hospital (salary went for treatment: _((). There was a closed fracture due to a fall. He jumped out of the terrarium and landed unsuccessfully.
